The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread

[michel]

As an aside, drank and enjoyed an Aussie Pinot tonight, should I go to confession?

Yes
Tell us which one!

[Ian S]

As an aside, drank and enjoyed an Aussie Pinot tonight, should I go to confession?

Nah, straight to A&E. I've alerted them and they have the stomach pump ready

(absolutely only kidding, I've enjoyed many)

[JamieBahrain]

Oh no, thread drift, so righting things quickly .


Massolino Parussi Barolo 2011- 2011's are hitting HKG at good prices and make for pretty good drinking now. I like Massolino, had a 69 a few months ago, have visited them for a masterclass with the Hong Kong Wine Society and I think they have found a good direction with some amazing vineyard sites. Parussi is not Serralung btw. Castiglione Falletto oddly, and I can't recall if Franco mentioned the reason why they branched out beyond their traditional commune. Vineyards acquisitions in Barolo is a serious business these days when you chat frankly with winery owners.

Overall a little spiky and it becomes critical to get the serving temperature right to optimize the alcohol/acidity. When on the mark a good effort, a jam doughnut like effect throughout with warm red fruits settling to less upfront fruit with more immediate complexity in smoke, balsam, sweet spices and even a whiff of white pepper. Round on the palate, tannins are talcum like in mouthfeel and structure, and the plump fruit upfront in this structure will never sit well with the critics though be fine with drinkers like myself until the vintage limitation and time meet somewhere beyond 10 +

91pts

[winetastic]

Thanks for getting us back on track (it was a Bindi Dexter Pinot 2015 :p) - I actually rate the 2011 Massolino Parussi, one of two wines I brought back in my carry on, along with Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2011. I felt the Parussi was one of the few 2011s that had acid balance and the alcohol didn't stick out.

Then again, I'm just a Nebbiolo newbie still.

[Ian S]

Yes Jamie, there is much talk of outside money making a move on what was historically mostly passed from family member to family member, or when that wasn't feasible, sold to friends / neighbours. The sale of Vietti will have really shaken the place up.

[JamieBahrain]

Giovanni Corino Barolo Vecchie Vigne 1999- Recent six pack addition for drinking now til whenever. Modernist producer from La Morra and this old vines bottling is from the best parcels of the Giachini Cru. Sees a fair bit of new wood, but in my experience , as long as with good age, Corino's wines have good balance and little obtrusive new oak to show well down range. Gaia Gaja gave one of the most inspiring speeches on "modernism" on a sunny day on their Sori San Lorenzo vineyard and I recall her mentioning a dinner the week prior where nobody could tell the difference between a 1989 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo and a 1989 Elio Altare Arborina Barolo . Traditionalism versus modernism ! Now, Corino's are Altare neighbors and I've noted similar, perhaps its La Morra, perhaps it's just this amazing varietal that lets time heal all.

With an amazing old world/ new world fusion of pork belly, this wine was a treat. I'll have a better look over the next few weeks at the wine. Very elegant over all, oak supports the structure, a little drying but that could be the cellaring provenance because the fruit does freshen things up half way through- mushroom, decay, licorice, spices and roast meats. Delightful !

94pts

[Ian S]

Gaia Gaja gave one of the most inspiring speeches on "modernism" on a sunny day on their Sori San Lorenzo vineyard and I recall her mentioning a dinner the week prior where nobody could tell the difference between a 1989 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo and a 1989 Elio Altare Arborina Barolo .

Hmm - a very bold claim, though I don't believe 1989 represents the worst excesses of the modernists - the 1990s are more extreme AFAIK.

What would surprise me, is a full-on modernist, new barrique aged wine, shaking off flavours aromas of coffee & chocolate. There are typically other differences when young, but it's these two elements that I'd be surprised to find absent in a fully mature example.

[JamieBahrain]

Now, Corino's are Altare neighbors and I've noted similar, perhaps its La Morra, perhaps it's just this amazing varietal that lets time heal all.

Thank's Ian, but if I could fully quote myself !

I've seen Altare's wine at between 20 and 30 years and I had mentioned this before on the forum that I felt time could heal all with some of the original modernist.I felt well supported by GG's comments on the 89 Mascarello and Arborina.

There's no doubting some people made a mess of wines. Looks like Altare may not have been one of them. I've been backfilling Altare wines- Arborina a steal!

[Ian S]

Don't get me wrong, I'm not a zealous traditionalist, and do rather like the wines of Mauro Molino, who are ~ 'modernist leaning' if we wish to classify.

For me, overt oak (and I mean that intended to 'season' the wine in the manner of a chef) and very deep, dark and rich fruit are things that give me concern. Those concerns may be invalid, or not always valid, but there are enough that are not pushing the limits, such that I don't have to gamble, especially when the likes of Roberto Voerzio, La Spinetta and Elio Altare are often a lot pricier.

[JamieBahrain]

Tonight, keen to revisit the Corino wines from the Giachini vineyard, an old vines 99 and the regular Cru from 97, produced a lesson in cork variability and provenance. The Veccchie Vigne 99 had a great cork, compared to the other night, but was all choc-prune, just the occasional La Morra perfume coming forth- an NR ! Something not quite right.

The 97 was on song despite a sodden cork- sour cranberry, red raspberry fruit with a little oak producing a beautiful , integrated la Morra perfume . Vibrant acidity, spiced cherry flavor profile, long and elegant. Wonderful ! 94pts. Day two produced more austerity suggesting its ready to drink.

Good producer under the radar but caveat emptor with older stock!

[Ian S]

Heading off to an offline tomorrow, the theme being "Piemonte, but not Barolo and Barbaresco". Now this may sound like sacrilege, however when someone organises a Piemonte offline normally, Barolo & Barbaresco is typically all that appears. Ok maybe a token white, or a French fizz or a Moscato d'Asti, but the lack of variety is a real shame.

So, we have
Northern Piemonte Nebbiolo / blends x 3
Langhe Rosso blend and a Langhe Nebbiolo
Vespolina (normally in the Ghemme blend, but making a mark now bottled as a varietal wine)
Grignolino
Freisa
Pelaverga
Timorasso
A fortified / herb-infused wine
Dolcetto
Barbera
Favorita

plus another white TBC. Looking forward to it (rather more than the late night train home!)

[Ian S]

A very fine tasting. Wine of the night for me (but not the group) was the Freisa. Vintage unknown, but going by the label design we reckoned 1960s / 1970s. Amazing whilst it bloomed, but an hour / 90 mins later it had fallen over in a heap.

Indeed one of the most enjoyable tastings I can recall, with no really grand / prestigious wines there, but a wonderful cross-section of the charms Piemonte has to offer, and pretty much all of the wines I'd happily have again at the dining table.

[winetastic]

How was the Grignolino? And which producer/vintage?

[JamieBahrain]

If this was the Piedmont wine thread I could almost post daily!

No Cortese di Gavi in that line-up ! Hahah no that's the one wine I avoid in the area though it's the most prolific plantings?

[Ian S]

I'll see if I can decipher the notes later today. It was a late night train back home: 1:35 am arrival, so a little tired!

Indeed no Cortese, though the organiser said he was tempted. We agreed that if it were to be done, then either sparkling Cortese or one of the more maverick producers would be the way to go. I do like Albino Rocca's cortese, so I may be more tolerant of it than you Jamie - but Gavi undoubtedly suffered a la Chianti / Soave etc. with some crap churned out under the name.

[michel]

Cappellano Pie Rupestris Barolo 2000 & 2009- After a grueling week in urban China, I needed a producer to bring a celebration of humanity into my mid-week drinking. So I pulled the cork on a couple of Cappellanos, an amazing producer I buy annually regardless of vintage debate. 2009 and 2000 which I felt had similarities.

Barolo often delivers a sucker punch; pull the cork and there's explosive aromatics that frustratingly subside as aeration begins it's mysterious play. The initial aromatics were strikingly similar differentiated by a freshness of youth. On return from the initial, amazing kaleidoscope of both, the 2000 shows a light toffee, sour cherry/earth on pungent Serralunga minerality versus a ripe spectrum of complex dried florals, light aniseed/dark cherry and wet earth/cedar notes of the 2009.

In the mouth the 2000 has a powerful throw, with a front palate opulence and smoothed over texture, very long length and still a commanding tannin rise on the finish. The 2009 is incredibly approachable with the vintage delivering high levels of fruit and tannin ripeness - though neither over done. Just delicious Barolo and I can see why it's served by the glass at one of our top restaurants here in HKG.

I'll report further as I alchemize the wines- the 2000 will be left overnight and decanted for many hours tomorrow. The 2009, well I will drink most tonight and leave a glass to see how it fares overnight.

Teobaldo Cappellano never wanted mere mortals to associate points with his wonderful wines so I'll just say China is now a much better place after a few generous glasses.

The morning after drinking half the bottle of 2000 Cappellano, the rest was put in a half decanter and drunk late in the evening. The wine returned to its core with an even layer of dark, somewhat unyielding fruit with just a smattering of spice like complexity; the fruit runs the palate length measuring the powerful mineral infused acidity which draws out forceful persistence.

Could have been left another day or two in the decanter ! Fascinating wines....... I need to increase my Barolo stocks again there is no greater joy for me than opening three bottles on a Sunday night and watching their evolution over a week.

Is this the same wine
Labelling looks so different
This a thrilling barolo

[JamieBahrain]

Hi Michel,

Same Serralunga Cru- Gabutti. Rupestris is grafted rootstock from old vines and the Franco is ungrafted which is incredible in many ways, as you get a snapshot of Barolo pre-pyhloxera!

I'm doing a dinner soon, with a look at both side by side and Cappellano Barolos back to the 1920's. I don't post notes on many dinners these days but I think there will be interest in this one.

If you can get more of the 2010 Franco- snap them up! Don't blink at the cost even in Oz as the secondary market has moved strongly on Franco abroad. I buy these wines every year. Grossly undervalued, though this is ending, and a performer in weaker vintages.








http://www.cappellano1870.it/en/

[Gary W]

The 2010 Pie Franco is a blinder!

[michel]

The 2010 Pie Franco is a blinder!

I know
'apparently" australias quota was 8 bottles

can you reccomend any wines similar GW?

[Gary W]

The 2010 Pie Franco is a blinder!

I know
'apparently" australias quota was 8 bottles

can you reccomend any wines similar GW?

Well I got 3 of them...

I reckon 2010 Canonica has a similar feel, despite being from Barolo, and from Serralunga, Principiano. Also worth looking at 2010 Mirafiore Lazzarito, and Giovanni Rosso (Serralunga, Cerretta, Serra). I know they are all different, and not exactly like Cappellano, but have a similar sort of 'purity'. There's heaps of others...but these spring to mind as favourites.

[JamieBahrain]

I know
'apparently" australias quota was 8 bottles

can you reccomend any wines similar GW?

Wow! That's a skinny quota. Mine is 6 bottles and a few magnums plus 48 bottles of Rupestris which I "make" friends buy. When contacted on the forum over the last few years I'd plead with guys to buy the Cappellano from a distributor friend at mates rates and nobody took it up despite my loose comparison to Rockford.

[Gary W]

There are two importers now, so it's now a bigger allocation.

[JamieBahrain]

Last of the Mohicans was Beppe Rinaldi, Teobaldo Cappellano and Bartolo Mascarello. Different terroir, but same genre! Michel, I'd suggest you have a look at those wines too from 2010.

I'm not sure if the story of Teobaldo is known. Very anti-points and rankings of his wines.

I recommend their Barolo Chinato. With a history back to the Italian colonization of Africa. I use it instead of anti-malarial tablets when pursuing my other hobby of remote jungle trekking.



" What I dislike about this world is the superficiality of thinking that an evaluation mark, set next to my labels in a wine guidebook, might determine a judgment -- be it positive or negative -- on my work into which I have put passion and strong feelings that certainly can't be described by a number. On the threshold of 60 (years of age) I decided to stop accepting marks. Also because when I meet a friend I don't want to be asked what score Robert Parker gave me. But what the hell do I care? I'm an atheist. Should I worry about the judgment of a man? "

[Gary W]

Rinaldi (about the same level of difficulty to obtain as Pie Franco, in particular the Brunate) but B.Mascarello almost impossible to get locally - I only usually get to drink it from restaurant lists.

I love Cappellano Chinato. It's superb. It's still currently available locally through Giorgio de Maria Fun Wines.

[Ian S]

" What I dislike about this world is the superficiality of thinking that an evaluation mark, set next to my labels in a wine guidebook, might determine a judgment -- be it positive or negative -- on my work into which I have put passion and strong feelings that certainly can't be described by a number. On the threshold of 60 (years of age) I decided to stop accepting marks. Also because when I meet a friend I don't want to be asked what score Robert Parker gave me. But what the hell do I care? I'm an atheist. Should I worry about the judgment of a man? "

d'accordo!

[michel]

" What I dislike about this world is the superficiality of thinking that an evaluation mark, set next to my labels in a wine guidebook, might determine a judgment -- be it positive or negative -- on my work into which I have put passion and strong feelings that certainly can't be described by a number. On the threshold of 60 (years of age) I decided to stop accepting marks. Also because when I meet a friend I don't want to be asked what score Robert Parker gave me. But what the hell do I care? I'm an atheist. Should I worry about the judgment of a man? "

d'accordo!

i agree with your agree!

[Ian S]

" What I dislike about this world is the superficiality of thinking that an evaluation mark, set next to my labels in a wine guidebook, might determine a judgment -- be it positive or negative -- on my work into which I have put passion and strong feelings that certainly can't be described by a number. On the threshold of 60 (years of age) I decided to stop accepting marks. Also because when I meet a friend I don't want to be asked what score Robert Parker gave me. But what the hell do I care? I'm an atheist. Should I worry about the judgment of a man? "

d'accordo!

i agree with your agree!

[Diddy]

I love Cappellano Chinato. It's superb. It's still currently available locally through Giorgio de Maria Fun Wines.

It's also available in Melbourne via retail outlet (won't post details out of respect to Gavin).

[Ian S]

FWIW what I've tried from Cappellano hasn't offended, but equally hasn't inspired me to the same heights of appreciation of others here (and elsewhere). No criticism of the wines, just that I don't share the level of admiration that is driving the prices up into the stratosphere. The most recent tasted were 2004 Cappellano Barolo Pie Franco Otin Fiorin & 2004 Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris Otin Fiorin

[JamieBahrain]

E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo 1990- There's a lot of Cannubi shining in the wine and then the mix of Via Nuova. Vegemite- thick sediment went on the pot plants as fertilizer after the wine was poured off into a half decanter. Just a delight to share post-dinner where the wine isn't corrupted by food- that's what Barbera is for !

Inviting aromatically - crushed dried mint, with decay and stale tobacco; prominently scented red fruits with truffle development. Floods the palate with a full spread of weighted fruit. Orange peel freshness in a sludgy tertiary persistence. Joyful !

94pts