Bin 28 2006 Cork -v- Screwcap 10 year Checkpoint

[NickA]

I hope you don't mind cross-posting (originally on UK forum), but I given the relatively limited experience with cork-v-screwcap aging comparison in the UK, I thought this is the place to find out more!

One note of disappointment I'll express here, is that Penfolds has pulled away from screwcap (at least in the UK). All recent Bin releases of 28 are cork. And in talking to Peter Gago directly, I could tell it was not a screwcap proponent at all back in 2009, so maybe this is a more global pull back of Penfolds with the traditional bottlings?

Anyway, with the availability of both cork and screwcap available on release for Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna shiraz 2006 I thought I'd buy both and see how they get on in time.

Well, after effectively 10 years in bottle, it was interesting to see where they are.

Declaring my position, I hate natural cork. I'm getting more used to the idea of the Diams of the world, but as a natural cork, my view is we must dump them to move forward.

But the truth is today, the cork version of these wines is clearly the more ready and enjoyable.

The only issue with the screwcap wine is a wine that has barely budged in 5 years or more (since I last tried a screwcap version). The bottle under cork still had this element 2 years ago.

What we seem to have is nothing more than slower evolution. The dusty, barrel like character that developed around 5 years ago is still there in the screwcap version but has dissipated now in the cork bottle. You can decant for a hour or two and is dissipates to a more or lesser degree, but clearly this is an evolution/oxidation thing..

But the cork version today draws more comparisons to a early drinkability, more fruit initially brighter, but still with that trade mark liquorice/tarry note of warm shiraz fruit. Perhaps still a bit too much oak influence for perfect drinking, but in its early drinking window is it.

So, another 2-5 years for the screwcap wine to be ready? Perhaps. Will the screwcap wine have a longer drinking window as well? Probably.

Does this mean cork bottles are better? Well, given say 3-5% would have been corked (and for Penfolds that's about right I'd say), and even now some would have oxidized (likewise, Penfolds do not use the highest quality corks I've seen). Some people will not be so lucky.

But this bottle under cork is fine, and nice drinking. Having developed a red inflection to the darker oaky fruit.. The palate is no more than medium bodied, and a modest finish.mid black/red fruit with malty and liquorice tones. In that they are identical. Even the tannin development is not so different, but tighter on the screwcap version reflecting the later evolution..

So from this one checkpoint, I would screwcap is principally the same wine, but probably 2 or more years behind the cork in development.

What is the experience here?

[NickA]

PS Just spotted the screwcap thread. I think I'm going to find my answers to my question there! I'll read through that now. cheers.

[dave vino]

G'day Nick, and welcome to the forums.

I think what you say is true. I'm happy with live with the longer cellaring windows knowing the wines won't be a lottery when opened. It is just an epic waste of years of storage, transport, purchasing all for a bottle that was sunk the minute the cork was pushed down into its neck.

From last night...

Wine on left is a cork sealed 2000 Petaluma Rizza, one on the right is a 2002 of the same wine under screw-cap.

[Chuck]

I think there is more bottle variation under cork whereas with every bottle under screw cap I know exactly how each will taste - same as the last after allowing for maturation. Last night had the last of a few Anvers 2002 McLaren Vale Reserve Shiraz under cork that was a step up from other bottles over the past year or 2. Why couldn't all the bottles have been that good? For me slow maturation under screwcap is a source of mild frustration in reds but not whites. Having a cellar is a bonus in overcoming this problem.

Carl

[Luke W]

It's a problem of maturity - when u get to my age the good wines in Stelvin outlive you and u never get a chance to drink them at their best!
Personally I think wines in Stelvin potentially last for many more years than the experts predict - my guess Stelvin and good cellaring almost make a wine last 3 times as long as cork. I've got plenty of 14 year old rizzas that still are too young to drink!

[Bobthebuilder]

It's a problem of maturity - when u get to my age the good wines in Stelvin outlive you and u never get a chance to drink them at their best!
Personally I think wines in Stelvin potentially last for many more years than the experts predict - my guess Stelvin and good cellaring almost make a wine last 3 times as long as cork. I've got plenty of 14 year old rizzas that still are too young to drink!

whack them in the attic for a few weeks in summer

[rens]

It's a problem of maturity - when u get to my age the good wines in Stelvin outlive you and u never get a chance to drink them at their best!
Personally I think wines in Stelvin potentially last for many more years than the experts predict - my guess Stelvin and good cellaring almost make a wine last 3 times as long as cork. I've got plenty of 14 year old rizzas that still are too young to drink!

whack them in the attic for a few weeks in summer

Being in Yeppoon, Luke could just pop them on the kitchen bench for a fortnight.

[Luke W]

Thanks guys