Merlot - a complete wine?

[Waiters Friend]

I'd like to start a conversation on something that has bothered me for years.

It didn't start with the main character in 'Sideways' shouting "I won't drink any f#$%ing Merlot". I just have yet to find a straight (100%) Merlot that I feel is a complete wine, and that includes drinking in Bordeaux.

For me. Merlot is a good blender, and relies on (mostly) Cabernet Sauvignon to provide the structure to support it. Cabernet Sauvignon is described as a 'doughnut' wine (missing middle palate) and this is precisely the gap that Merlot fills. So why produce a straight Merlot, if all it provides is middle palate?

So, I put it to the test. The James Irvine Grand Merlot has been touted as possibly the best example of this variety in Australia, and I acquired a 2006 version (arguably the best vintage in Eden Valley for a decade) as well as the 2008 (yet to be tested). Here is the TN for the 2006 : viewtopic.php?f=1&t=14610

From the TN, you can tell that I enjoyed the wine. But - there was still that little piece missing. Especially on the outside of the tongue. The 'reverse doughnut' in fact. Am I being pedantic?

Thoughts?

Allan

[catchnrelease]

Blue Poles Reserve Merlot is very good, although I think they add a tiny bit of Cab Franc. Not sure if by 100% you mean 100%, or just very close to it. I think the soon to be released 2011 is 100% Merlot, and based on its track record (and the 2010, which was great) it should be a fantastic drop.

[Polymer]

Petrus

[redwhiteandrose]

The line I've heard repeated a few times recently is that, despite pinot being said to be hard to make well out of its homeland, that description much better suits merlot. But I guess it could also describe others like nebbiolo.

Some of my favourite Australian merlots come from Coldstream Hills, Bird in Hand and even the one barrel per year made at Main Ridge Estate. Yarra Valley, Adelaide Hills and Mornington, respectively. Interesting, all cool climate regions where pinot noir does well.

[michel]

Petrus 1964 is the most complete f@#$ing wine you will ever try

[Dave Dewhurst]

Merlot is a grape that has always bothered me in Oz and I feel there are very few good examples as a single varietal. The Irvine you tried is one, Brown Hill in Margaret River another when it has some age on it. I am struggling to think of others right now. There are a few good wines with merlot dominated blends like Picardy, but on its own here I am not sure.

Cheers

Dave

[Polymer]

Redigaffi

There are a number of 100% Merlots out there that are very good although maybe less so than some other varietals..

[dave vino]

Hillcrest Wines do some good Merlots. Good structure. Old world style.

http://www.hillcrestvineyard.com.au/pag ... views.html
2012 Premium Merlot

96 points, Gary Walsh, Winefront (tasted Apr '14)

Alcohol 13% Drink 2014-2024+

Fair to say, I love good Merlot – perhaps the world’s most misunderstood grape – and this is GOOD Merlot. A likely contender for the amazing award of “Australian wine I’ve most enjoyed drinking in the last 12 months”. 60 cases made.Light camphor perfume, earth, mocha, black plum and some red fruits. Medium bodied, yet densely packed, with perfect acidity and fine grained ripe tannin – texture is superb – earth and black olive flavours make it fall on the savoury side, but there’s ample fruit weight to lend seductive charm. Lengthy. Beautiful to drink. Balance is the word. Benchmark is another.

2008 Reserve Merlot

93 points, James Halliday, Wine Companion 2011

Dense purple-crimson; a very interesting merlot, with a scented bouquet of spice and fruit compote, then a palate that rapidly changs pace with its filigreed texture and structure and texture, and hints of mint and leaf.

96 points, Gary Walsh, Winorama

Perfumed and packed with mixed fruits of the forest (and specifically boysenberry/blueberry/blackberry) with plenty of vanilla/cedar oak and tobacco. It’s medium to full bodied with a latent earthiness masked by bright sweet berry fruit. Some dried herb in the mix too. It has plenty of tannin, freshness, length i.e. the whole package. It’s obviously a very young wine and it was on the third day that it showed its hand - the points ticking upwards each day. Not to be damned with faint praise, I consider this a highwater mark for Australian Merlot.

[TiggerK]

Aus Merlot is a no go zone for me, although the Hillcrest and Blue Poles are OK, and an Irvine Grand Merlot 02 was decent a few years back. Yes I'm a kiwi, but NZ (Hawkes Bay) can do it very well producing good quality, easy drinking inexpensive wines, but best to avoid the poor vintages. 2013's are well worth seeking out, Sacred Hill come to mind. (Although avoid the Te Mata Merlot/Cabernet 13 - great producer but this is a bit crap).

[Michael McNally]

Interesting topic.

1964 Petrus (or any Petrus for that matter) is as relevant to me as a Porsche. Never going to happen.

I have never had an Australian Merlot that made me go and buy another bottle. Most Cabernet/Merlot blends do the same with a couple of Margaret River exceptions. Something to do with the flavour profile rather than the mouthfeel for me though Alan. Too sweet in the red fruit spectrum - just guessing really as I haven't had one in a while.

Occasionally I will get a Merlot that is the best of a lineup (I think this happened with a minor Coonawarra producer at a Roadshow a few years back), but never enough to part with my hard-earned.

Cheers

Michael

[felixp]

Is Merlot a complete wine?..... yes, 100% merlot wines are the greatest on the planet (if you look at what the world's great wine critics say)

Is affordable Merlot a complete wine?.... no, not in my experience. If anyone knows of any 100% merlots priced under $1000 a bottle that are complete wines, please chime in, because I do not. Some might say Masseto, I would respectfully disagree. I purchased it from 93 until 99, when it was still affordable, and I have to admit it is the solitary wine label in my cellar that has me continually thinking I am going to break my self-promise and send them to auction (in HK, of course, where I would get 25-30% more than I would in Australia)

Are there any decent Aussie 100% merlots?? I loved the 1994 Petaluma merlot, which was/is varietally pure. Stunning wine, and I have seen it side-by-side with the 94 Masseto, which it equalled. Unfortunately, nothing else I have seen, including other Petaluma attempts, has come close.
For a merlot-dominant wine, even in Australia, I think you just cannot go past Lalande-de-Pomerol in good vintages. If you spend $50-80 on a good one, you really are buying a superior wine, most often far better than many Aussie competitors in that price range.

[Wizz]

Petrus 1964 is the most complete f@#$ing wine you will ever try

Excellent - therefore you will be buying all of the Oakridge Merlot on clearance then?

[Waiters Friend]

Petrus 1964 is the most complete f@#$ing wine you will ever try

Happy to put this to the test, Michel. Let me know when you're next in Perth Australia, and you have a bottle in your back pocket

[Waiters Friend]

Thanks for all the comments. It's been interesting reading.

I've tried some of the wines mentioned prior to posting the original, and still found nothing to change the impression I posted. That included right bank Bordeaux -but not Petrus .

It seems a number of you hold similar impressions to me. That's not a reason to disregard future opportunities for tasting, but it's nice to have my opinion supported.

Cheers
Allan

[felixp]

If my memory serves me well, very few right bank wines are now 100% merlot consistently, in fact, I think Petrus , Lafleur and Le Pin are just about the only Chateaux to use 100% year in year out these days. (some-one please chime in if they know different, because I am relying on my memory here, not always a wise thing to do) The others, such as Lafleur Petrus, Eglise Clinet and Latour a Pomerol, to name a few, have been known to use 100%, but not consistently. The use of Cabernet Franc is becoming more common, as the region goes thru a "warmer' generation (this is not a global warming argument, so please don't start!!!!)

I am surprised, actually amazed, you have tried many right bank Bordeaux and cannot find a "complete" wine there. I can recommend to you scores of such, that have every quality you could desire.... but of course, almost all have small amounts of Cabernet Franc and sometimes other varieties in the case of Pomerol wines, varying to Cab Franc dominant over in St Emilion.

Petrus 2009 is perhaps one of the most "complete" wines I have ever tasted, but it will not reach it's peak until at least 2050, so the 40-year old IT billionaires are probably the only ones buying it to see in it's full glory.

However, you make a good point about the variety which, worldwide, might be even more fickle than pinot noir!!!!

[Waiters Friend]

If my memory serves me well, very few right bank wines are now 100% merlot consistently, in fact, I think Petrus , Lafleur and Le Pin are just about the only Chateaux to use 100% year in year out these days. (some-one please chime in if they know different, because I am relying on my memory here, not always a wise thing to do) The others, such as Lafleur Petrus, Eglise Clinet and Latour a Pomerol, to name a few, have been known to use 100%, but not consistently. The use of Cabernet Franc is becoming more common, as the region goes thru a "warmer' generation (this is not a global warming argument, so please don't start!!!!)

I am surprised, actually amazed, you have tried many right bank Bordeaux and cannot find a "complete" wine there. I can recommend to you scores of such, that have every quality you could desire.... but of course, almost all have small amounts of Cabernet Franc and sometimes other varieties in the case of Pomerol wines, varying to Cab Franc dominant over in St Emilion.

Petrus 2009 is perhaps one of the most "complete" wines I have ever tasted, but it will not reach it's peak until at least 2050, so the 40-year old IT billionaires are probably the only ones buying it to see in it's full glory.

However, you make a good point about the variety which, worldwide, might be even more fickle than pinot noir!!!!

Thanks Felixp. Right Bank Bordeaux (including a visit to St Emilion) saw only a couple of 100% (I think) Merlot wines, and there were some enjoyable Merlot dominant wines. But I remember sitting under umbrellas in a restaurant in St Emilion town square, thinking "something's missing", while drinking a perfectly acceptable, but not totally satisfying St E wine (95%Merlot). Maybe I just don't 'get' Merlot, but I wish I had been on the Left Bank instead

[Phil H]

My 2c worth.... going against the current consensus. I have enjoyed quite a few Merlots from cold climates, mainly from the Orange region (yes here I go again) along with Chile & Argentenia. Maybe I have enjoyed them because they are not you're typical Merlots, but more Cabernet like. These wines showed cellaring potential
These wines were sub $30, and hence I was not expecting too much, however they did interest me, very enjoyable, evolved during the life of the bottle, value for money and "A Complete Wine". There have been previous postings of "being bored of Shiraz" and for those people cold climate Merlot may be worth exploring.
I agree that I have not had any Merlots that can compete with top level wines, but at at the sub $30 level they are an alternative to many mainstream wines at this level.
Merlot is not my favourite grape variety (occupying about 4% of my cellar) however it is an alternative when I am looking for something different - and yes it can be elusive.

[felixp]

Hi Allan
not many things better in the wine world than sitting in the square in St Emilion and enjoying the scenery and atmosphere. What an incredible little town, every wine lover surely must have a visit on their bucket list. I have a mate who has been to Bordeaux four times from Aus., but never been to St Emilion... says he doesn't care for right bank wines!!!! Told him to have lunch there and order a Medoc or drink beer, but he is not convinced as yet!!!
strangely enough, a little wine store in St Emilion was where I discovered Roc de Cambes, as we walked by on our way downhill, an incredibly friendly and equally inebriated shop keeper invited us in to try three recent vintages back then, 08,09 and10 I think. I was very impressed, but they are actually quite difficult to find in my neck of the woods. Awesome wine for the price. We were so impressed, he then opened a 07 VCC, which was drinking incredibly well. In fact, I got a dozen when I got back to Oz, it is a great wine despite the vintage.
if ever our paths cross, maybe in an off-line, I will bring along a 1989 Canon, just to convince you that the right bank can indeed make affordable, great wines. Incredibly, this wine could still be purchased recently in HK for about $105 AUD a bottle!!!!

[Cloth Ears]

Hmmm.

Would agree that there are not that many people who can make a Merlot work as a single varietal in Australia, but we managed to find a few that work for us.
We've been buying a couple of dozen Scarpantoni each year and have not been disappointed. Unsure how they manage to keep it so long before release and still sell it so cheap.
Have also found that Dennis Wines produce a pretty nice 100%, again from McLaren Vale.
Dan Murphy's sometimes has a cleanskin Merlot from 'Yea Valley' which is quite acceptable (and very cheap).
Maglieri, Petaluma, Parker & Summerfield all produce acceptable merlots, and Te Kahu do a nice Bordeaux blend, but that's tracking down the wrong path.

[Wayno]

Had a tasting of 16 Australian Merlots a few years back. Very uninspiring for the most part, although the clear highlight was a funky and quite extraordinary Lucy Margaux Merlot from the Adelaide Hills. Never seen it since but it was great.