McLaren Vale - cellar door recommendations

[timmspe]

We're planning a day trip to McLaren Vale in January. With little experience in that area, I'm keen to hear your recommendations. We will aim to visit 4 or 5 places, and try to stick with those that have a cellar door, rather than by appointment visits. And I will be keeping an eye out for Grenache! The preliminary list includes Chapel Hill, Coriole, Kay Brothers Amery, and Primo Estate. As a 5th option, we were thinking about Geoff Merrill (mainly deterred by the detour on the way down to McLaren Vale), or Richard Hamilton...

What do you recommend?

Can you recommend any lunch venues (other than d'Arry's), cafes or other attractions along the way?

[Panda 9D]

Yangarra make great wines. All organic/biodynamic but none of that amateur stuff.

[Polymer]

Samuels Gorge (it will be right next to Kays).
Maximus (they have a good number of reasonably priced Grenache based stuff)

[Rossco]

I have never been there, but a very good friend of mine couldn't stop raving about Braydun Hill.
He loved their wines.
Other than that, Wirra Wirra is a good place to go as well.

Molly Dooker is in McLaren Vale, but they depend on your taste buds. Some people love their style (think RP and the US market), some people hate it.....

[Scotty vino]

Woodstock
Samuels Gorge (prob my fave don't miss it)
Chapel Hill
Primo
Hugh Hamilton
Alpha Box and Dice.
d'Arenburg
Olivers Taranga.
Paxtons
and the list goes on....

finish the day at the victory hotel. check out their cellar collection.
or for lunch FINO in willunga is a winner.

[simon1980]

Another vote for Samuels Gorge. Also Alpha Box and Dice...the wines and CD are both very different. In a good way!

simon1980

[n4sir]

If it's just a day trip, you are best off sticking to a group of wineries in the one area - McLaren Vale isn't exactly huge, but it's a fair hike from the wineries from the north to the southern ones nearer Willunga, and I figure you don't want to waste too much time in the car.

Chapel Hill, Coriole, Kay Brothers Amery are at the northern end, Samuels Gorge is right next door to Chapel Hill (not Kays as previously mentioned), while Oliver's Taranga and d'Arenberg (and by extension Paxtons) aren't too far away from Kays.

Primo Estate is towards the southern end, near Wirra Wirra and Richard Hamilton, Woodstock is further east, Yangarra is out that way too.

Hope that helps a bit.

Cheers,
Ian

[Michael R]

Wineries well covered above.

Food......Lunch at Star of Greece in Willunga is hard to beat anywhere in Oz, let alone McLAren Vale. Been about 18 months since my last visit, but if you like a beautiful coastal location and decent food and service....it's a must visit. And if your feeling energetic or romantic, a walk along the beach before or after is worth considering.

The Victory is a classic spot to finish a day in the tasting trenches, its cellars etc, and Fino does a pretty good dinner.

[TrickyH]

Another option (and the one I prefer) is to take the more scenic route via the adelaide hills and visit the Geoff Hardy K1 CD. For scenic beauty it's hard to beat the K1 CD and there's usually something interesting like the Lagrein to taste. If you like the hybrid Italian style of the Primo Il Briccione then the Lagrein is definitely worth a try. And the K1 Pinot Noir is a personal favourite.
There's also Pertaringa - good range of easy drinking reds and whites (think Moscato if that's what you're into) as well as higher end stuff. I think Geoff Hardy still makes some wine for Pertaringa but my knowledge could be a bit out of date.

EDIT: Goodieson's Brewery is also good if you want to taste beer as well. His stout is modelled on Southwark Old Stout and IMO is damn fine.

[Cloth Ears]

We went to The Barn when we were there in September, and it was the best lunch we had in SA our whole trip. And, being on the main drag, it's perfect.

Angoves is also worth a stop-over, some wines aren't bad, and the XO is seriously yummy.

[sjw_11]

I would normally visit Alpha Box & Dice, Kay Brothers, Hugh Hamilton, Coriole, D'arenberg, and Wirra Wirra on any given drive to McVale (in order of my "Must Visit" ranking scale ... skewed by the facts I never see AB&D elsewhere and I am about 25% hipster).

Others I have visited and enjoyed but havent been to for a while include Fox Creek, Hugos, Pertaringa, Paxtons and Woodstock.

I am generally less of a fan of Penny's Hill, Chapel Hill (I feel its slipped a bit), and despite many strong recommendations Samuel's Gorge have yet to astound me. However, of all the cellar doors I reserve a dishonourable mention to Foggo's for 1) producing an oxidised very aged chardonnay and claiming it is "stylistic" (no, its just vinegar) & their other wines werent a lot better and 2) insisting loudly and forcefully I should definitely not visit Primo Estate.

You must eat at the Victory Hotel. This is not negotiable. I recommend if you have the option staying in one of the lovely houses by Sellicks beach then you can both be near the beach, a short drive to the Vale, and also be walking distance to the Victory Hotel.

[Polymer]

and despite many strong recommendations Samuel's Gorge have yet to astound me.

I agree. I suggested it because a lot of people seem to really like it..even the locals. I think their wine is good but I've never really been that excited about anything there.

[sjw_11]

and despite many strong recommendations Samuel's Gorge have yet to astound me.

I agree. I suggested it because a lot of people seem to really like it..even the locals. I think their wine is good but I've never really been that excited about anything there.

To be fair, I probably haven't tried enough of them to be certain(say, a handful) and a couple of my friend's visited the CD and subsequently raved... So you are probably right, on this basis the OP would be best to visit and make up their own mind!

[Scotty vino]

Samuel's Gorge is more the 'experience' rather than just the wine.
Don't get me wrong, I personally think the wines are very good.
Are they 'out of the stratosphere' good? That could be debated.
But the vibe is cool and it's always very welcoming. The views are some of the best in McLaren Vale, and the overall setup/setting is excellent IMO. Too many times I've attended cellar doors where the wine is very good,
yet the service and general reception is poor (let's not got there).
The 'why are you bothering me today?' attitude is often the reason why I leave a CD empty handed.

There's nothing better than having the winemaker discussing their wines with
full blooded passion and being made to feel welcome.
Based on my experience, you'll get that at Samuel's Gorge.

I guess it depends what you're looking for when you head to any wine region

[timmspe]

Thank you for all of your input. Samuel's Gorge looks nice. In addition to having a lot of 2011 wine on their website, it looks as though they have sold out of a few things, so I will have to visit the area again toward the end of April. It looks like I am already planning a second trip. I can see myself enjoying the scenic route through the hills when the place starts to green up a bit. Serious consideration will be given to Yangarra and Pertaringa! Thanks again!

[Brucer]

I went to Samuels Gorge a year or so ago. Justin came out, grabbed himself a glass of red, and sat down with us for a chat for 20 mins. Thats pretty cool I think.

[chillwrx]

I went to Samuels Gorge a year or so ago. Justin came out, grabbed himself a glass of red, and sat down with us for a chat for 20 mins. Thats pretty cool I think.

That has happened a couple of times for me when it is quiet - it does attract the "in" crowd more than others though.

[penguinoid]

I'd also recommend Yangarra and Samuel's Gorge. A great way to get to Yangarra is to drive through the hills via Clarendon then Kangarilla - a beautiful drive, especially if you go along (I think) Tourist Drive 57.

If you're going further south in the McLaren Vale and are organised enough to make an appointment, Cradle of Hills are worth a visit. They're a very small winery, but produce some excellent wines.

I've read good things about Marius wines (including here) and keep meaning to visit myself but haven't yet -- just haven't been organised enough!

[Scotty vino]

Another excellent lunch option is the CURRANT SHED next to Hoffmann Wines.
Been there a few times and it's a winner.

[timmspe]

We made it out to the McLaren Vale. It is bemusing to note that I somehow ended up as the designated driver. That's fine though, the primary motivation behind today's trip was to persuade two other craft beer and whisky lovers to enjoy a bit of wine. The first stop was Coriole. I thought they were comparatively tight with what was available for tasting. I was particularly keen to try The Optimist Chenin Blanc and Lloyd Shiraz. I understand that what you can serve is limited by the price and amount of what is produced, and cellar door traffic, and that a product like Lloyd Shiraz will sell on the basis of its reputation, but I usually find that wineries are willing to share their flagship wines with the public, particularly around weekends. The garden-variety Chenin Blanc that was available was pretty fruit forward compared to other expressions. The Fiano and Sangiovese were equally pleasing. Chapel hill was decent with an impressive number of alternative red varieties available. The next stop was Kay Brothers. It was probably the best cellar door, in that the serving staff were obviously very involved in the whole operation, and they have a great spot overlooking the vineyards. They had the Block 6 in a decanter behind the counter, and were happy to share, but I was a bit underwhelmed. The Mataro and Merlot were decent, but overall, I thought the wines were a carrying a bit of excess heat, and a bit unruly. Reminded me of the wine at Kaesler. The last stop was Primo Estate. It's a surprising piece of architecture they have there. They have a refreshing way of doing things. It was interesting to compare the Italian vs. Australian Sangiovese/Shiraz blend, which, I am told, they have tried to produce in as similar a way as possible, with only difference being the terroir and viticulture. I remember someone on the forum here questioning whether anyone in Aus can make a decent Pinot Grigio - I certainly enjoyed it here. They were serving the Joseph Sparkling Red - it was great, but there are others that I prefer. We had lunch at Goodieson's Brewery - they don't serve food but are happy for people to bring their own lunch. They've got a great set up there, with a nice patio with shaded chairs amid red gums and vineyards, and an affable Kelpie cross that's a dead-ringer for Red Dog. The beer was good enough. Overall, I enjoyed the white wines more than anything. Perhaps this impression was affected by the fact that most red wine was from 2011. I was surprised by how accessible McLaren Vale is from Adelaide. You'll have to pardon me for seeking recommendations and not visiting any of them - I do appreciate your insight, and am particularly keen to visit Samuel's Gorge, Yangarra, and Maximus soon. It sounds like there is a lot to choose from in the way of fine dining, and just about everyone today recommended a visit to Samuel's Gorge. I'll head back in a couple of months!

[dan_smee]

Primo - simply because of the Joshua Sparkling Red. Holy sh!t that it a great wine

[sjw_11]

This talk of Primo Estate is reminding me how long it has been since I had a sparkling Shiraz! ... The Joseph is great in my experience (there is a photo somewhere of me guzzling the last straight from a bottle...) but it is perhaps a tad expensive.

[dan_smee]

This talk of Primo Estate is reminding me how long it has been since I had a sparkling Shiraz! ... The Joseph is great in my experience (there is a photo somewhere of me guzzling the last straight from a bottle...) but it is perhaps a tad expensive.

Probably worth the price tag though - I had a few basic sparkling reds this Christmas, but had to get a bottle of this for the big day because of the pedigree. Each bottle has a blend of every vintage since the eighties, plus a random mix of 60s and 70s reds bought at auction AND a hogshead of the current cab merlot into the base wine. It is then partially fortified which gives it a luscious, syrupy texture. It was one of the greatest wine experiences of 2013 for mine.

[timmspe]

Primo - simply because of the Joshua Sparkling Red. Holy sh!t that it a great wine

This talk of Primo Estate is reminding me how long it has been since I had a sparkling Shiraz! ... The Joseph is great in my experience (there is a photo somewhere of me guzzling the last straight from a bottle...) but it is perhaps a tad expensive.

The flavour was excellent. However, I thought it was seriously lacking in the way of carbonation which left me disappointed overall (it is a sparkling red after all ). It felt flat in my mouth from start to finish. Perhaps it had been open too long (but with cellar door traffic, I highly doubt it). Or perhaps it was more to do with the way it was poured - it poured with an almighty mousse, so that may have been where all the carbonation went. It sounds like I will need to have a bottle before to give it a fair go...

[TrickyH]

The flavour was excellent. However, I thought it was seriously lacking in the way of carbonation which left me disappointed overall (it is a sparkling red after all ). It felt flat in my mouth from start to finish.

Interestingly, I was there (Primo) on Saturday and the Joseph Sparkling was sans-bubbles. Turned out the bottle had been open for a day and a half. The attendant explained that he liked it a bit flat as it allowed the flavours to stand out, but personally I think because it is only available in the paid tasting they don't go through a bottle quick enough - so you've got a fair chance of getting something a bit flat. Maybe they should consider making half bottles for cellar door use.
I felt bad afterward because I made him open another bottle close to closing time for 3 tastings to be poured (so they would likely be in the same situation the next day)
The rest of the wine tasting at Primo was excellent - really good to be able to try a range of different varieties. I particularly enjoyed the tuscan version of the shiraz-sangiovese. For anyone who remembers the 1991 Double Pruned Cabernet they have released a 2009 Double Pruned - at $275 a magnum it's a bit of a risky proposition but the '91 was certainly one of my most enjoyable wine experiences.

Thanks to penguinoid and others who suggested Yangarra, this was the highlight of the trip for me. I don't want to go over the top with adjectives like elegant, finessed, balanced etc - simply put these are incredibly enjoyable wines - and so moreish and underpriced. Hard to see them not becoming an impossible to buy, cult wine producer in the future.
One of the Yangarra wines is a lower alcohol (13.5%) preservative free shiraz which, timmspe, seemed to me to be the perfect introductory red for non-wine drinkers. Of course it needs to be consumed within a short timeframe - but that shouldbn't be a problem.

In comparison the K1 (Geoff Hardy) tastings were incredibly disappointing and I feel embarrassed to have recommended them so highly previously. I guess a year or two can make a lot of difference. Whilst the 2009 Pinot Noir was IMO outstanding, the 2010 is hardly distinguishable as Pinot and tastes like generic supermarket plonk. Keen to hear from others who have tasted this, maybe it is just going to take a bit longer to settle down.
The Tzimmukin (2007, Shiraz/Cabernet Amarone technique) which you effectively have to pay $10 to taste was a huge let down. There was none of the concentrated raisin/prune fruit I was expecting and too much acid to be enjoyable drinking now. Just made me appreciate the Joseph Moda more.

[penguinoid]

No problem, glad you enjoyed the Yangarra tasting! This reminds me that I must go back there again soon and get another couple of bottles.

I tried the preservative free shiraz last time I was there ("PF Shiraz" - an in-joke, as PF is short for both "Preservative Free" and "Peter Fraser" - the winemaker's name!). It was very good, though I prefered their standard shiraz. Just wish I had enough money to buy a bottle of the High Sands Grenache ....