Weekly Drinking Reports as at 13/1/2013

[dlo]

Last night I threw a dinner party for Melbourne jazz drummer and good friend, Alan Richards and his wife, June, visiting Canberra with friends. With a sumptuousTasmanian smoked salmon salad dish we opened proceedings with the steely and tightly coiled 2010 Forest Hill Block 1 Riesling. A wine worth watching as it evolves over the next decade or more. Next up was a tiring bottle of Hollick's 1984 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon - incredibly good fill level and only partially stained corked but not on par with the bottle I took to the Australian Jazz Convention over the Christmas/New year period. Still eminently drinkable for an almost 30 year old wine but just showing some cracks around the edges as the fruit has gone a little sugary and the freshness of the recent bottle replaced with dusty old leather and mushroomy characters. With mains of Fillet Mignon, roast root vegetables and steamed greens, we cracked a 1979 Ch. Grand-Puy-Lacoste - a most wonderful wine with a medium ruby core and some bricking in the edges followed by a bouquet and palate that exuded sheer class and resolute youthfulness for the lengthy duration it sat in our glasses. Cedar, herbs, blackcurrant, plum, beef blood and sweet earth were the main players here and its structure was just sensational for a 33-year-old, especially the finish - ohso smooth and extra long. Again, a terrific fill level and a cork retaining over a centimetre of zero wine permeation. At this rate of development this outstanding wine could last for another two decades, possibly longer. To keep Alan's unrelenting thirst for red wine satiated, I opened a 1990 Wynn's Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. Incredibly youthful with immense power and quite some way to go, this excellent example oozed unresolved power from start to finish, although I always worry when reds from this district hit 14%+ A/V. My belief is Coonawarra is always at its best when under 13% and even better when closer to 12! Last night's bottle had the fruit to mask this slight excess of alcohol. A few of the several bottles I've tried in the last year or two have been less successful because of this problem. Next up was a rip roaring trad jazz jam session, Alan having a rare and fascinating stint on washboard joined by my father and visiting jazz genius, Joe McEvilly, both on alto sax and yours truly on piano; then back to the table for a mixed berry fruit salad followed by a lovely bottle of honeyed nectar, Gould Campbell's quite remarkable 1927 Vintage Port.

Working backwards, Friday night with Rachel's band members in town for the recording her first album, after multiple bottles of boutique brewery beers, we cracked a smooth and seamless 1999 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon blessed with just a trace of counterbalancing gravelly astringency so common to the cream of the Margaret River dress circle.

Earlier in the week, we opened a stunning bottle of 1998 Seppelt Dorrien Cabernet Sauvignon and a wonderfully fresh and still quite primary bottle of 2002 Petaluma Hanlin's Hill Riesling.

So what's been going down the hatch in your world this week?

[colin d]

A few years ago I attended a wedding in Hunter Valley and I decided to stay in the region for a week to explore casually some of the wineries. I've never been a huge drinker of HV liquid, but from my past I new of a couple of wineries that would interest me, in particulary Lake's Folly, one of the first genuine boutique wineries in Australia to emerge in the late 70's along with Balgownie in Bendigo. I went to Lake's Folly but the wines are expensive and sold out in a hurry so I left empty handed.

But I did stumble across Gartelmann, a small family run show that impressed me greatly. I bought some Diedrich Shiraz, Benjamin Semillon and a sparling. The shiraz and sparkling I drank not long after getting home and during my long absence from this forum . Yesterday I opened the Semillon.

Gartelmann 2009 Benjamin Semillon 11% - Out of the fridge I poured and let it sit in the glass giving it time for the flavours to fully develop. Colour was between pale honey and watered down apple juice. Nose display muted citrus and melon fruits, lively minerals and acid. Lively summer fruit and citrus with minerals on the palate, melon flavours really shone through the more it warmed up giving it a bit more body. It remained fresh through a couple of days drinking.

[damonpeyo]

Did tasting of 1998 Grosset Watervale and 2012 Grosset Polish Hill....separate days and locations.





Different worlds apart, and I was surprised to discover that '98 was still going well and strong, despite, I found it at well known national bottleshop chain on the day under $55 and it was corked, well sealed, but when I opened it, it just crumbled to many little pieces, as didn't have the right drainer to pour into the glass, did the best I could using tea bag drainer as I wasn't at home, and you may notice little fine bits of the cork in the glass, but that didn't bother me too much. I was blown away, not "outstanding blown-away atomic style" if you get my drift, just over-impressed enough my socks off that it survived at this certain bottleshop, it was interesting aged Riesling as learning curve for my case as only started get into wines for the last few years, it had some amazing dried-sultanas type of nose/notes, reminded me little bit mildly some of the De Bortoli Noble One's Botrytis characteristics, as I haven't drank much of aged Rieslings in the over 12-15 years old range under my drinking belt.

The colour was very dark yellow. It wasn't over-sweet and at the same time it wasn't even acidic, just somewhere in the middle, somewhere perhaps near off-dry? Yet I really enjoyed drinking this. Learnt a lot during this evening of drinking this aged Riesling.

I also found '99 Watervale at the same place, corked, and it going to be interesting when I open it.

The '12 was very very nice, refreshing, clean, long finish lasting few minutes, not too over-acidic, very comfortable balanced palate. Beautiful drop, sorry not the type who goes on about the tasting notes of fruits and all that stuff, despite I may have made some comments of the dried sultanas notes in the '98 Watervale.

I don't know why, when I drank the '12 I keep thinking some similarities to the '12 Wilson Vineyard Polish Hill Riesling which is 1/2 of the price of the '12 Grosset Polish Hill.

Felt the '12 Grosset was more refined, softer and longer finish than the '12 Wilson, again I only drank this Wilson once, would need to taste this again as it was several months ago when I sampled the Wilson Riesling, good thing that I've got several of both in cellar, going to be interesting decade ahead in the future and watch them develop.

[sjw_11]

Mount Horrocks Shiraz 2006... Lovely middle aged Clare Shiraz. Elegant medium bodied red fruits, noticeable acid giving excellent line and length, and soft furry tannins. Very enjoyable. I think this is good now or will drink well over the next 3-5yrs.

Grosset Watervale Riesling 1999... I bought 6 of these at auction and this was the last. Of the six the first was OK the next 4 were garbage and this final last bottle was OK. Burnished yellow colour, pronounced nose of candied lime, a lick of kero and some apricot-like characters. The palate carries this through with just a dash of oiliness, the finish just a tad short. Based on these 6 bottles I would a) drink up and b) not bottle riesling under cork.

[phillisc]

1994 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael shiraz 13% cork
Drank over two days with little improvement

Very good cork and colour, but thats where it ends.
What berry, spice and varietal character was left was dominated by oak, not in an overt way but did not give the fruit much of a showing.
Palate was very simple, difficult for me to assess but feel that all the primary fruit was gone.
Apart from an almost lolly pop sweetness, no depth or sophistication at all and no tannins.

Hope this is not a representative bottle of the wine or vintage...but very disappointing.

Craig.

[damonpeyo]

Grosset Watervale Riesling 1999... I bought 6 of these at auction and this was the last. Of the six the first was OK the next 4 were garbage and this final last bottle was OK. Burnished yellow colour, pronounced nose of candied lime, a lick of kero and some apricot-like characters. The palate carries this through with just a dash of oiliness, the finish just a tad short. Based on these 6 bottles I would a) drink up and b) not bottle riesling under cork.

Interesting you pointed that out, opened '99 yesterday. Thought it was OK, but not fantastic too. Very different to '98, darker colour burnt yellow, aromas of dried fruit infused with kerosene-like characteristics, with short lingering crisp-citrus like aftertaste of finish that seem to come in waves over few minutes in a strange way.

Still midly acidic palate, not much mild/off-dry like type of sweetness background like the '98, it was interesting comparison with '98 and '99.

The cork was in OK/good condition, as shown in the picture, with little crack at the bottom. This wine was consumed with Tasmanian Heidi Farm Raclette Cheese and imported aged Parma Prosciutto. I felt this wine is more of suitable to go with foods, while with the '98 I was more than happy to drink on its own without any foods.

'98 was far more pleasant and enjoyable than the '99.

[sjw_11]

Grosset Watervale Riesling 1999... I bought 6 of these at auction and this was the last. Of the six the first was OK the next 4 were garbage and this final last bottle was OK. Burnished yellow colour, pronounced nose of candied lime, a lick of kero and some apricot-like characters. The palate carries this through with just a dash of oiliness, the finish just a tad short. Based on these 6 bottles I would a) drink up and b) not bottle riesling under cork.

Interesting you pointed that out, opened '99 yesterday. Thought it was OK, but not fantastic too. Very different to '98, darker colour burnt yellow, aromas of dried fruit infused with kerosene-like characteristics, with short lingering crisp-citrus like aftertaste of finish that seem to come in waves over few minutes in a strange way.

I did see in your post you bought the '99 as well.... Looks a similar colour in the picture and similar notes to mine... Your lucky you got one of the bottles thats still Ok! (although I only paid about $25/bottle at auction, and who knows what the previous owner/s had done with them)

[griff]

Just a 2000 Leasingham Bin 7 Riesling under screwcap so far. Not a heralded vintage but gotta love the screwcap as this performed above expectations. Burnished yellow gold. Has evolved some lovely toasty honey flavours but still has a firm spine with lime present suggesting further development possible. However for me it is really hitting its stride now. No kero detected. Excellent wine even.

cheers

Carl

[Luke W]

Wynns BL Coonawarra Cabernet 2004 and Petaluma 1992 (cab merlot) - unfortunately both corked - tried the gladwrap and the cork swap but I couldn't drink them.
Taltarni Shiraz 2008 - quite pleasant easy drinking with a bit of flavour.
Rockford nite - 2 Black Shirazs (2001/2006 disg) - the 01 had a dreadful cork that had split and rotted and the bubbles had gone but the wine was still stunning. The 06 was sheer class. Followed up with an 01 Rockford BP that had a fair bit of brett that blew off with some vigorous swirling after 15 minutes. Decanted 2 hours and turned into a thing of beauty.

[sjw_11]

Hugh Hamilton "Black Ops" Shiraz (93%) Saperavi (7%) ... S/cap. Dense, dense, dense. Opaque purple red in colour, intense nose of sappy liquer plums and crushed red berries. Just too dense, firm and alcohol heavy on the palate. Hardly budged in 2 days - I would give these 2-3 years in the cellar to unwind. Probably the wrong time of year to drink this! I enjoyed the last bottle more.

[ticklenow1]

Wynns BL Coonawarra Cabernet 2004 and Petaluma 1992 (cab merlot) - unfortunately both corked - tried the gladwrap and the cork swap but I couldn't drink them.
Taltarni Shiraz 2008 - quite pleasant easy drinking with a bit of flavour.
Rockford nite - 2 Black Shirazs (2001/2006 disg) - the 01 had a dreadful cork that had split and rotted and the bubbles had gone but the wine was still stunning. The 06 was sheer class. Followed up with an 01 Rockford BP that had a fair bit of brett that blew off with some vigorous swirling after 15 minutes. Decanted 2 hours and turned into a thing of beauty.

Rockford have served the '01 Basket Press at the last 2 Black Magnum dinners and it is a truly stunning wine, that should live for a while yet. A very under rated vintage from the Barossa. Shame about the Black Shiraz. I've noted from about '05, '06 onwards that Rockford's corks seem to be on the improve. They seem to not be stained half way up the corks as often nowadays.

Cheers
Ian

[Michael R]

Agree Ian & Luke

Like the 01s alot.
IMO much better than the 02s, which have always disappointed me.

[Loztralia]

So last night this happened:

20130116_202421-2.jpg

There is no way I'm up to doing it justice in a note so let's just say it was long, perfectly balanced and utterly irreplacable. This was my father in law's bottle and I'm not planning on opening any of my three until my 40th birthday.

[Luke W]

Agree Ian & Luke

Like the 01s alot.
IMO much better than the 02s, which have always disappointed me.

Interesting that JO gives the 01 89 points and the 02 96 - maybe they should be reversed. At the Stonewallers lunch I went to in October last year Ian they served the 99 BP which was just stunning - love to get my hands on some of that. The guy who gave me a bottle of 02 BP yesterday said it was his favourite vintage. I hear its a bit porty but that will probably suit my taste.

[Michael R]

I'll be very interested to know your thoughts when you open it.

I've had quite a few bottles of it and always found it a bit ott, with noticeable heat. I know the vintage was warm etc, but the balance isn't there for my palate. Most recently tasted it at a Stonewallers lunch last June. Others that day seemed to really like it, so i could well be bonkers (v likely)!
Although i'd love to serve it blind to the same people

I hope the wine you open is right in your groove Luke, and feel free to let me know i'm crazy if/when it is

[damonpeyo]

2011 Bellarmine Dry Riesling

When I opened the bottle, sniffed the bottle inside, thought "bit over-whelming floral aromas, not sure"....

Then poured into a glass, after couple few mouthfuls and swirls and breath, those aromas seem to disappear and the wine was more approachable.

Turns out a very nice, clean, crisp, fantastic long mineral finish. I like it.

[ticklenow1]

Agree Ian & Luke

Like the 01s alot.
IMO much better than the 02s, which have always disappointed me.

Interesting that JO gives the 01 89 points and the 02 96 - maybe they should be reversed. At the Stonewallers lunch I went to in October last year Ian they served the 99 BP which was just stunning - love to get my hands on some of that. The guy who gave me a bottle of 02 BP yesterday said it was his favourite vintage. I hear its a bit porty but that will probably suit my taste.

I took an '02 to our Brisbane Langton's Exceptional offline, I think year before last and it seemed to go over OK with everyone. I've only tried the '02 3 or 4 times and it seems to need a fair amount of time in the decanter. The bottle at the offline had about 8 hours air from memory. By that I think it will go for a few more years yet. I've only got 2 left and I won't be opening them for a while. I also think that the '02 vintage is not all that it was claimed to be in the Barossa.

As for the ratings, I can only say that the critics are tasting them young and they and can only judge the wine in front of them . I suppose some wines don't look that flash young, but with age, turn into a brilliant wine, such as the '01 BP and vice versa. But the "critics argument" is for another thread (but just to kick it off - I see JH is now flogging wine to his website subscribers, so how the hell can he be impartial??? Joke!!). JH only gave the '00 an 87 and trust me, it's much better than that. JO gave it a 93 which is more like it. JH gave he '06 a 95 and JO scored it a 88. How can there be so much difference between 2 supposedly top notch critics? I can remember trying it at the cellar door and thought it was quite good. Rockford does suffer a little from the poor quality corks they used up until the '05 or '06 vintage, so maybe there is a bit of bottle variation in them.

Cheers
Ian

[Mike Hawkins]

Agree Ian & Luke

I also think that the '02 vintage is not all that it was claimed to be in the Barossa.

I'm starting to feel the same way

[Mike Hawkins]

I guess I'm a contrarian. I've been a bit disappointed with numerous bottles of 99, 01 and 02 Basket Press. So much so, I sold most of them. OTOH, I think the 90, 91 and 96 are some of the best Aussie wines I've had. I hold high hopes for the 98 (probably in the minority), 2004 and 2010. The 2006 might turn out to be special as well.

Cheers

Mike

[Luke W]

I'll be very interested to know your thoughts when you open it.

I've had quite a few bottles of it and always found it a bit ott, with noticeable heat. I know the vintage was warm etc, but the balance isn't there for my palate. Most recently tasted it at a Stonewallers lunch last June. Others that day seemed to really like it, so i could well be bonkers (v likely)!
Although i'd love to serve it blind to the same people

I hope the wine you open is right in your groove Luke, and feel free to let me know i'm crazy if/when it is

Thanks Michael
I'll let you know although it may be awhile!
cheers
Luke

[Dave Dewhurst]

2011 Bellarmine Dry Riesling

When I opened the bottle, sniffed the bottle inside, thought "bit over-whelming floral aromas, not sure"....

Then poured into a glass, after couple few mouthfuls and swirls and breath, those aromas seem to disappear and the wine was more approachable.

Turns out a very nice, clean, crisp, fantastic long mineral finish. I like it.

Yep, love these wines. These guys tend to fly under the radar a bit but their wines are awesome. They make an off dry and a sweet version too both of which have exceptional cleansing acidity on the finish, which to me is quite unusual for an Australian sweet wine.

Cheers

Dave

[Dave Dewhurst]

Agree Ian & Luke

Like the 01s alot.
IMO much better than the 02s, which have always disappointed me.

Interesting that JO gives the 01 89 points and the 02 96 - maybe they should be reversed. At the Stonewallers lunch I went to in October last year Ian they served the 99 BP which was just stunning - love to get my hands on some of that. The guy who gave me a bottle of 02 BP yesterday said it was his favourite vintage. I hear its a bit porty but that will probably suit my taste.

I had the 99 at a Stonewallers lunch just over a month ago. I agree that it is an awesome wine. I'm not usually a fan of big Barossa shiraz but this was just beautifully balanced and ever so long. Their 02 Vine Vale riesling at the same lunch was a bit of an eye opener as well, just lovely!

Cheers

Dave

[Jay60A]

Reading Rockford BP reviews is making me thirsty ...

Don't have any '91 but my current BP impressions -
- 96 = awesome. Haven't tried for while but stuck me as pretty immortal if not now improving.
- 98 = v.v.good+ Still shut down - needs serious time was my impression. No rush.
- 99 = very good, remember as being quite complex. Probably about peak now and I should revisit.
- 02 = not to my taste - I like the red fruit aspect but hot on the finish and not balanced. 10 remaining bottles should likely go to auction, agree with Mike's comments (alas).
- 04 = awesome. The new '96.
- 05 = good, not great. Very tasty but behind the 96/98/99/04 for me so I didn't buy.

In retrospect the BP 01 will probably turn out better than the 02. Will try a bottle of the BP 06 when it hits the UK but 05 is selling very slowly I think.

Barossa 02 shiraz in retrospect is a bit hit and miss and Gary Walsh probably got it right ... Eden Valley had a cracker vintage for shiraz though in 02 (Henschke, WB Platinum, Peter Lehmann Eden Valley, Petaluma shirazes all great).

...

[damonpeyo]

2011 Bellarmine Dry Riesling

When I opened the bottle, sniffed the bottle inside, thought "bit over-whelming floral aromas, not sure"....

Then poured into a glass, after couple few mouthfuls and swirls and breath, those aromas seem to disappear and the wine was more approachable.

Turns out a very nice, clean, crisp, fantastic long mineral finish. I like it.

Yep, love these wines. These guys tend to fly under the radar a bit but their wines are awesome. They make an off dry and a sweet version too both of which have exceptional cleansing acidity on the finish, which to me is quite unusual for an Australian sweet wine.

Cheers

Dave

I looked up more into the winery, and to my surprise discovery, the owners/winemakers seem to have bit of German background, and in fact they took the winemaker to Germany and explored all that complex crap involved with German wines and all the areas, seems they try to mirror their wines based to German Rieslings. Interesting if your into it. Due my limited experiences with German Rieslings, but when I drink the first mouthful, feels little teasing reminders of some German Rieslings but the finish feels more of the Australian style. Or other way round, If that makes any sense?