RareWineDinners - Riesling & Rioja @ Rise 16/11/2012

[TiggerK]

Hi Everyone,

had a great RareWineDinners event at Rise Restaurant in Darlinghurst last night, thought I'd post a few notes and photos to give you an idea of the vibe. I really enjoyed it, we had the whole place to ourselves, and it all ran very smoothly,plus no issues with the food timing or service. Indeed, all very slick and well organised. The food was very good, although in a dumb moment, I had to stave off an impending heart attack as I thought the white 'sorbet' under the oyster looked a nice way to start, so scooped up a glob, swallowed and....Um, no, BIG chunk of salt, shiver, could feel my organs trying to decide whether or not to hit the panic button. Such an Idiot Tim.... Anyway, had a good laugh, and so onto the food... really good quality oysters, lovely bit of cured salmon, nice smoky pork, particularly enjoyed the pastry topped seafood stew, and the lamb was nicely cooked with a really interesting yakiniku sauce. Dessert was nifty too, smoked ice cream with the icy coconut granita and fresh berry goodness underneath. And especially when considering the price point, I thought it was excellent.

Natural Pacific Oyster with Ponzu-soy citrus
Confit of Salmon with Dijon mustard vinegar Miso
Rise style tomato based stew with seafood and puff pastry cup
Grilled Chasu and mixed mushrooms with Teriyaki sauce
Grilled lamb cutlet w/ yakiniku sauce & seasonal vegetables
Smoked vanilla ice-cream with Coconut granita and mixed berry

And the wines?? Well, brief notes from me, and I'll give out points FWIW, but I'm being more balanced and marking harder nowdays than I used to! No Hallidaying here! Overall it's a pleasure and a privilege to get to taste these old wines, I really appreciate the effort Shannon goes to in sourcing such interesting old wines, and pretty much always in fantastic condition from cold European cellars, then carefully shipped here.

2009 Schloss Vaux, Rheingauer, Riesling Sekt - Quality bubbles here, bit like a Lanson NV? Tiny bit sweeter perhaps, but bright, clean, hint of depth. 90
2011 Langwerth Von Simmern, Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen, Kabinett Trocken, Rheingau - Classic off-dry German start, plenty of lemon tang, touch simple sweet but youthful spritz and zips around the mouth. 89
1998 Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach, Steinberger Gold Kapsel, Rheingau. - Quite advanced on the nose, grapefruit, caramel. Initial palate of sugary orange and mandarin, plenty of sweetness, fades a bit quickly but enjoyable. 90
2011 Langwerth Von Simmern, Rauenthaler Rothenberg, Spatlese, Rheingau. - Higher sugar instantly apparent, could use a touch more acid? Bit spicy (white pepper/cardamom?), green grassy and brush notes. Flows nicely, medium cellaring potential. 90
1976 Langwerth Von Simmern, Rauenthaler Rothenberg, Spatlese. Rheingau. - Classic 76 wonderful tropical nose, sweet marmalade, touch of warmth. Acid slightly prominent through mouth but a lovely wine. 93
1964 Joh. Jos. Prüm, Wehlener Zeltinger Sonnhur, Auslese, Mosel Saar Ruwer. - So youthful! Really lived up to the expectations. Classic aged German nose yet plenty of lemon pith and freshness too. Really good length, clean and simply delicious. Passes the 'memorable' test! 95
1981 Lopez de Heredia, Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva, Rioja. - Mixed reaction around the table, I certainly enjoyed it. Slightly oxidative, yet well complemented by youthful lemon, acid and surprisingly dramatic clean, dry finish. Reminded me of an aged Chenin, with a hint of Jura! 91
2011 Langwerth Von Simmern, Erbacher Marcobrunn, Kabinett, Rheingau. - Grapes picked with Auslese sweetness levels, yet labelled as Kabinett for marketing and strategic sales purposes. Hey why not, but might surprise a few regular Kabinett drinkers of this label! Some struggled with the SO2 levels, it's really designed for the long haul. So plenty of sweetness and intensity, quite an attack on the senses! Time should reward the patient. 91
1976 Georg Müller Stiftung, Hattenheimer Deutelsberg, Auslese, Rheingau. - Essentially a great German 76 Riesling! Marmalade, caramel, sweet stone fruits and acidity in harmony, balance and flow. Yippee. 94
Options - 1959 Weingut August Eser, Oestricher Lenchen, Spatlese, Rheingau - Drank this too quickly for proper notes as needed quick options impressions, but was amazed by it's delicious youthfulness. Had it picked as a 71 Spatlese, maybe younger from a cooler year. But nope, even older, duh, should have played the man more. Really good wine, thanks Shannon. 94

Onto the reds.....
1994 Martinez Bujanda, Garnacha Reserva - Kirsch, cola, dark cherry and anise. A lovely aged nose. Palate felt a touch fragile or thin compared to the fruitier, oakier 95, but has character and style. 91
1995 Martinez Bujanda, Finca Valpiedra Reserva - More fruit driven, more modern style. Plenty of big tannins, needs food. Lacking a bit of fruit complexity, couldn't guess if it would improve further. Gutsy and robust, but never rough. 91
1975 Martinez Bujanda, Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva - Nice plummy old nose, mouthfilling furry tannins, quite an elegant wine. Felt a touch on the decline, but bottle two (second round options after dessert) showed even better, being more youthful, complex and integrated. 92/94
1983 La Rioja, Alta Gran Reserva 904 - My WOTN. Delicious aged savoury smooth nose, cedar, deep plums, you know, that thing you love. dingozegan was waxing lyrical and loving the bretty notes adding complexity and character, well if that's what a hint of brett can add, bring it on. It brought back memories of the Quintets 2000, or the 79 Bordeaux we had a while back. A lovely red wine, very happy indeed. 96
1976 Niederthaler Hof, Bochinger Bischofskreuz, Beerenauslese, Pfalz, Germany - All you'd expect of a perfectly cellared BA from 76. Luscious, rich, plenty of candied apricot, jersey caramel, and great acid cleanliness through the finish. Sweet, long and yum. Plenty of years left too. 95
Options # 2 - 1975 Martinez Bujanda, Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva - as per above note. Options came down to me and one other.... so was it the 75 or 83 Rioja? Duh wrong answer Tim. Missed out on the Langwerth V.S prize!

Here are the pics, Should have taken some more bottle pics on the night, but too busy having fun, so most wine pics are from the lightroom bottle photos Shannon gets done for the handouts.

Huge Thanks to Shannon, Kevin and the Rise crew, uber-snapper Carey and my fellow Grape Mates for what was a memorable and informative night.

Cheers.
Tim

[cuttlefish]

Awwwww jeeeez !

[griff]

Nice line-up! Just want to point out the 64 JJ Prüm looks like a GK. Even better

[JamieBahrain]

Hi Tigger,

Thx for the write up.

Was the Tondonia regular or Gran Reserva? I know there's a way of telling without looking at the back label but I can't remember.

[daver6]

Great summary of the night Tim. I pretty much concur with your notes and WOTN. Now in future, I can save writing notes and just borrow yours

Again...big thanks to Shannon. Brilliant, brilliant night

[TiggerK]

Hi Tigger,

Thx for the write up.

Was the Tondonia regular or Gran Reserva? I know there's a way of telling without looking at the back label but I can't remember.

Never saw the back label, but I assume it was the regular otherwise Shannon would have noted it. He may have another bottle to check, we'll see....

[camw]

Hi Tigger,

Thx for the write up.

Was the Tondonia regular or Gran Reserva? I know there's a way of telling without looking at the back label but I can't remember.

Never saw the back label, but I assume it was the regular otherwise Shannon would have noted it. He may have another bottle to check, we'll see....

Believe it was the Reserva (and your notes indicate the same), it appears to say so on the little sticker over the capsule if I'm reading it correctly?

[TiggerK]

Stupendous powers of observation Cam, nice work. Tempted to delete my embarrassing post, but will leave it there as a testament to my Need For Read.

[camw]

A few very short notes from me follow. Thanks Shannon for putting on a really well run event and I'm looking forward to the next one I can get to.

• 2009 Schloss Vaux Rheingau Riesling Brut - Germany, Rheingau
  Floral, stonefruit and mineral nose. Palate has a burst of acidity and is quite fresh, but there is a lack of depth and interest. 85/100

• 2011 Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern Hattenheimer Nußbrunnen Riesling Kabinett trocken - Germany, Rheingau
  Light floral notes, with some spice and citrus. Very light richness on the palate. Simple but quite tasty. 88/100
• 1998 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Steinberger Riesling Goldkapsel - Germany, Rheingau
  Grapefruit and marmalade with some orange peel. Drops away too quickly on the palate for my liking, there is a touch of sweetness but not much else. This has aged but not really developed any complexity. 85/100

• 2011 Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern Rauenthaler Rothenberg Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Rheingau
  Lime, smoke and honeysuckle aromas. Intense sweetness on the palate, I find that there isn't enough acidity or brightness to cover for it and it ends feeling unbalanced. 83/100
• 1976 Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern Rauenthaler Rothenberg Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Rheingau
  Kumquat, apple, straw and light smoke. Good acidity brightens the palate. Good length and there is some depth evident. Drink now. 89/100

• 1964 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
  Amazing light straw gold colour. Enticing aromas of florals, lemon, talc and some spices. The nose was consistent over an hour or more, not dropping away but not unfurling further either. Palate is a highlight with excellent balance and imposing length - subtle initially it just builds superbly across the mid-palate and holds on for quite some time. 92/100

• 1981 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
  Caramel, vanilla and lemon with a little bit of nutty oxidative character (but not as much as I expected). Texturally it was very interesting, though the acid was a touch prickly on the finish. 88/100

• 2011 Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Rheingau
  Lots of sulphur here, there is some white flowers and honey after time. Rich and youthful on the palate, it has just enough acid to carry the sweetness. 89/100
• 1976 Georg Müller Stiftung Hattenheimer Deutelsberg Riesling Auslese - Germany, Rheingau
  Some aromas in the eucalypt/mint spectrum as well as marmalade and melting sugar. Great balance and depth, the components woven together with purpose. Drinking well now but will hold for quite some time. 91/100

• 1959 August Eser Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Rheingau
  Honey, grapefruit and coconut aromas. Beautifully balanced on the palate, light richness and a good core of acidity persisting. Great length and a real pleasure to drink. 92/100

• 1994 Martinez Bujanda Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
  Graphite, leather, strawberry, aniseed and some kirsch. Some balanced savoury intensity on the palate with good length. Mostly resolved and ready to drink, I preferred this to the 95 Finca Valpiedra Reserva served by its side. 90/100
• 1995 Martinez Bujanda Rioja Finca Valpiedra Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
  Interesting aromas of stewed plum, charcoal, orange rind and some brett influence. Tannins still standing out on the palate, there is some red fruited character in behind but not much depth. Maybe another 3-4 years would help this wine round out its edges a little bit. 88/100

• 1975 Bodegas Valdemar (Martinez Bujanda) Rioja Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
  Was served two bottles of this, the second blind. The first showed spice, cedar and caramelised fruit. The palate was holding up okay, with some grip from tannins but fades away on the finish. 87/100
• 1983 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
  Complex and compelling aromas of autumn leaves, cherry, smoky leather, tobacco and spices. Beautifully balanced palate, there is sweet old fruit with earthy savoury notes. Detailed, textured and very long. Fantastic. 93/100

• 1976 Niederthäler Hof Bochinger Bischofskreuz Riesling Beerenauslese - Germany, Pfalz
  Apple, ginger, candied apricot and sultana aromas. Acidity still in tact provides good drive through the medium sweetness on the palate. Good length with some depth to it as well. 90/100

• 1975 Bodegas Valdemar (Martinez Bujanda) Rioja Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
  The second bottle was fresher with the same spice and cedar, but also some earth and cherry. The red fruit is more evident on the palate as well but there still isn't great complexity. 88/100

[TiggerK]

1983 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Complex and compelling aromas of autumn leaves, cherry, smoky leather, tobacco and spices. Beautifully balanced palate, there is sweet old fruit with earthy savoury notes. Detailed, textured and very long. Fantastic. 93/100

Cheers for the razor sharp notes as always Cam, but a note like that, and a 93? Wow, Tough Crowd....

Need flights of DRC to calibrate my palate immediately!

[Seven]

Wow the jj prum 64 had excellent colour

[markg]

Awesome looking line up there.. and the food looks delicious !

[Michael R]

Great to see these dinners going from strength to strength...Sounds like yet another fantastic night...awesome work Shannon!

I really appreciate the effort Shannon goes to in sourcing such interesting old wines, and pretty much always in fantastic condition from cold European cellars, then carefully shipped here

Well said Tim, pretty exceptional strike rate, just rewards for the incredible care and effort in sourcing.

[RedVelvet]

Big Thanks to TiggerK for the great write up and also Cam for the notes and powers of observation. Also thank to everyone else here for your positive comments and to those that attended on the eve. When a night like this runs as smooth as it did and everyone is as happy with it as they all were it certainly makes the time and effort worthwhile.

A few things in brief:
The 81 Tondonia was the Reserva... not the Gran Reserva.

The 64 Prum is not a GK, GK came in with the wine law changes in 1971 prior to 1971 producers in Mosel would use "Feine" to describe a Reserve wine or the equivalent of a GK, some also used "Hock Feine". The 64 Prum is however the more sought after blend of the two vineyards Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. Prum estate confirmed the percentage was 50/50 of each vineyard for this wine. Also of note is the spelling of Sonnenhur on the label "Sonnuhr" this was used to specifically define the Prum plot of vines in the Zeltinger vineyard after a legal battle over the extension of the site known as Zeltinger which then allowed other producers to have their plots legally included in the Zeltinger site.

I also need to make special thanks to the very good friends of mine in Northern Europe who continue to stock my cellar with wonderful old wines from the cold cellars of Europe. Also to those people who have been kind enough to give me access to their cellars in Europe so that i may share some of these fantastic rare old wines with others here in Australia.

Also the photo's of the bottles in TiggerK's post are the property of Ensofoto and although they are shared here they should not be reproduced without Ensofoto's permission.

I will also post more photo's of the actual event here later.

[griff]

They were definitely using both white and gold capsules for different wines back in 1964. It hadn't been endorsed by everyone admittedly but JJ Prüm did it. Perhaps, not being official, they had a different reason for using a gold capsule for some wines and not for others. Although, as you mention above, the combined Wehlener Zeltinger auslese was regarded as their premier wine, so I suspect the gold capsule was a quality indicator even back then. For instance the 1964 Berkasteler Lay Auslese has the recognisable white capsule with two gold bands. I have also seen 1969 Graacher Himmelreich with the white capsule as well although that is a few years later.

cheers

Carl

[dave vino]

Also the photo's of the bottles in TiggerK's post are the property of Ensofoto and although they are shared here they should not be reproduced without Ensofoto's permission.

I will also post more photo's of the actual event here later.

Bugger does that mean I have to destroy my T-Shirts?

[griff]

Also the photo's of the bottles in TiggerK's post are the property of Ensofoto and although they are shared here they should not be reproduced without Ensofoto's permission.

I will also post more photo's of the actual event here later.

Bugger does that mean I have to destroy my T-Shirts?

Brilliant!

[RedVelvet]

They were definitely using both white and gold capsules for different wines back in 1964. It hadn't been endorsed by everyone admittedly but JJ Prüm did it. Perhaps, not being official, they had a different reason for using a gold capsule for some wines and not for others. Although, as you mention above, the combined Wehlener Zeltinger auslese was regarded as their premier wine, so I suspect the gold capsule was a quality indicator even back then. For instance the 1964 Berkasteler Lay Auslese has the recognisable white capsule with two gold bands. I have also seen 1969 Graacher Himmelreich with the white capsule as well although that is a few years later.

cheers

Carl

Hi Carl

I think you could well be spot on the money with your comments above. Although it was not widely acknowledged prior to 1971 some producers were using different capsules to differentiate their wines. My sources have told me that the official practice of using GK's came into place with the new German wine laws of 1971 and that this wine was not a GK as it was made prior to 71. However there is no reason to say that the capsule of this wine does not indicate a premium release under Prum estate practices at the time. My contacts at Prum have not indicated the wine as a GK but they have stated this was the premium or reserve release from the estate at that time which if made after 1971 would have qualified the wine for an official GK.

Cheers
Shannon

[RedVelvet]

Also the photo's of the bottles in TiggerK's post are the property of Ensofoto and although they are shared here they should not be reproduced without Ensofoto's permission.

I will also post more photo's of the actual event here later.

Bugger does that mean I have to destroy my T-Shirts?

No it means you have to make one for me too............ I want one!

[TiggerK]

Seriously good Dave, you've excelled yourself. I'll have one too! Perfect SOR13 fashion!!