Each side of the alcohol-level debate has passionate advocates, and both are sometimes right
I was working the other night as a sommelier, which I still love to do from time to time, and while chatting with some clients, the subject of alcohol levels came up. They wanted to know whether it is true that a wine with a lower alcohol level is better than one with a higher level. There is a definite movement these days to rein in the alcohol level, especially among many critics and sommeliers.
My answer was that while I do prefer wines with less alcohol in many cases, certain wines are, in fact, better when they come in at over 14 or 15 per cent. It’s a question of the balance, of how all the constituent parts work together. More than anything, a wine’s alcohol level is simply an indicator of the style of wine that you might expect.
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