Shaw and Smith tasting 12 February 2025

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

A friend of mine (and part of our Grand Cru tasting group in Perth) opened his cellar somewhat to show a range of current and older Shaw and Smith wines. Shaw and Smith is a partnership of two cousins (one of whom is Australia’s first Master of Wine) based in the Adelaide Hills since the late 1980s.

The winery is well known for its delicious Sauvignon Blanc, but for this tasting, we focused on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and especially the Shiraz.

As we often do, we gathered at the wonderful Lulu’s Little Bistro, and as usual, Mark, Jodie and Brad looked after us superbly.

We tasted the Chardonnays first, in a mini-vertical:

Shaw and Smith M3 Chardonnay 2023: Lemon colour. On the nose, there’s nectarines, white flowers, a little vanilla, ripe peaches, a little citrus (maybe grapefruit) and slight cedary oak. The palate is similar, with white peaches, more obvious oak, nectarines, green apple and a touch of salinity. Supporting acid and a hint of reduction., alongside a modest dollop of oak. Medium to long finish and quite well balanced overall.

Shaw and Smith M3 Chardonnay 2022: Lemon colour. Similar to the 2023 (and a house style is apparent). Nectarine and citrus with a touch of oak on the nose. The palate is slightly more savoury than the 2023, but offset by lime, peaches, and white grapefruit. Acid appears slightly higher than on the 2023, and there’s a little struck match and a mealy note. Good length.

Shaw and Smith M3 Chardonnay 2021: Lemon colour. More apparent oak on the nose than the previous wines, as well as more stone fruits and less citrus. Ripe yellow peaches on the nose, with grapefruit, mandarin / orange rind and a good lick of oak. Cleansing acid leading to a fuller, rounder finish. Well regarded by the group.

The chardonnays show considerable similarity, and appear to be made somewhat to a uniform style, while allowing for vintage variations.

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We then tasted a mini-vertical of Pinot Noir:

Shaw and Smith Pinot Noir 2022: Garnet colour. Both sweet and sour cherries on the nose, with strawberry coulis, modest oak and some spices (maybe five spice). There’s more (slightly confected) cherries on the palate, with gentle tannins and high acid. One taster considered the wine to be quite varietal.

Shaw and Smith Pinot Noir 2021: Garnet colour (slightly darker than the 2022) and very clear in the glass. The nose was slightly fuller than the 2022, with sour dark cherries, spices and a sappy character. Dark cherries and strawberries on the palate, with slightly grippy tannins and softer acid than the 2022. Overall, light bodied and moderate intensity.

Shaw and Smith Pinot Noir 2020: Garnet colour. Smoky notes on the nose, with cherry, spices, violets and mild paprika. Red and dark cherries on the palate, with a slight savouriness and a herbaceous tinge. Medium to high acid, integrated tannins and good length. Overall, a denser wine than the previous two and well regarded by the group.

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The main business of the evening, however, was the Shaw and Smith Shiraz wines, and this was a more substantial vertical. These are not big warm climate shiraz, and it shows in the notes – there’s no shortage of flavour, but more elegance than power.

Shaw and Smith Shiraz 2021: Purple colour. Red and blue fruits on the nose, with sour cherry (did someone throw in some pinot?!), spices and violets. On the palate, the initial impression was tar alongside the blue fruits, pepper, tomato leaf, milk chocolate and one taster noted coffee bean. Fine tannins and good supporting acid led to a moderately long finish. Well regarded by the group.

Shaw and Smith Shiraz 2020: Purple colour. A darker fruit spectrum than the 2021, with blue and black berries, pepper, violets and beef stock alongside some savoury oak. Plenty of plum and blueberry on the palate. Fine but grippy tannins and supporting acid led to a slightly savoury and reasonably long finish.

Shaw and Smith Shiraz 2019: Purple colour. The nose showed red and blue berries, plums, a little iodine and pepper, spices, violets, beef stock with the savoury oak in the background. There’s dark plums, blueberries and a little leather polish on the palate, and a couple of tasters noted vegemite. Acid is firmer than on previous wines, and there’s some glycerols alongside the fine-grained tannins. Good length

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Shaw and Smith Shiraz 2018: Purple with ruby tinges at the rim. Plums, violets, smoky oak, pepper, aniseed and a touch of leather on the nose. Red and dark berries and dark plums on the palate, with fine tannins and acid playing a supporting role. Medium bodied, with a savoury finish, good length and well balanced overall.

Shaw and Smith Shiraz 2017: This was a cool and wet vintage, with the grapes harvested four weeks later than usual. Purple with ruby tinges at the rim. Dark plums, tar and savoury oak on the nose, with violets and some red fruits as well. The palate is a little lean and vegetal, with some dark plums, soy sauce and a touch of leather. Velvety tannins and a short finish.

Shaw and Smith Shiraz 2016: Purple with ruby tinges at the rim. A spicy nose, with red fruits, mocha and a little iodine. Red fruits (including some raspberry) and a little blueberry on the palate, which is richer and has more fruit persistence than the previous wines. There’s a touch of leather polish, fine integrated tannins and milk chocolate leading to a long savoury finish. Highly regarded by the group.

Shaw and Smith Shiraz 2015: Purple with ruby tinges at the rim.A very muted nose, with iodine the most observable character. The palate was more expressive, with juicy red and blue fruits, plums, cedary oak, cinnamon, cloves, and leather polish. There’s fruit sweetness alongside fine tannins and slightly prickly acid. Medium to long finish.

Shaw and Smith Shiraz 2014: Purple in the glass and darker than the previous few wines. A savoury nose with blue and red fruits and baking spices. Considerable fruit sweetness on the palate with juicy red fruits, nori, fully integrated tannins and freshening acid. Falls away slightly on the finish.

Shaw and Smith Balhannah Shiraz 2014: Entirely from the Balhannah vineyard which is also the winery’s home block. Purple colour. A bigger wine than the ‘standard’ shiraz, with more intense fruit on the nose (including dark cherries), along with mocha and leather polish. The palate is fuller and shows Christmas spices, and more of those fruits. There’s a juicy acidity, integrate tannins, and a velvety mouthfeel. Tasters considered that the wine was more extracted than the other wines, and is bigger and fuller bodied as a result. Very long finish and highly regarded – in fact, it was voted Shiraz of the Night.


This was an enlightening evening, especially for those of us with less experience of Adelaide Hills wines generally, and Shaw and Smith in particular. My thanks to Branden for his considerable generosity in providing the wines and hosting the evening.

Cheers
Allan

[Waiters Friend]

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[phillisc]

Thanks Allan, really like the S&S Balhannah Shiraz...just wish it wasn't so expensive!

Thanks for the notes
Cheers Craig