The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread

[Ian S]

I did rather enjoy when speculator interest rested mostly with high profile modernist leaning wineries, stuff that would probably have been off my radar at half the price. With the international trend edging back towards traditionalists (with the Italians seemingly a little late on picking up that trend), there are wineries such as Bartolo Mascarello, Cappellano and Giuseppe Rinaldi who are emerging as the new cult wines. A shame, but that's how it is.

[David Librandi]

Anyone recently tried Olek Bondonio's Barbera d'Alba 2016 and Langhe Nebbiolo 2016? I would be keen to know people's thoughts before I purchase.

A am looking to purchase the 2015 Roncagliette when its released.

[JamieBahrain]

The Barbera is very smart- tasted at the winery! And the langhe will be a good yardstick for another lauded vintage.

The Roncagliette, according to Olek, is very good.

[BrandonS]

Hi Ladies and Gents,

Looking to gauge opinion on the Giovanni Rosso Classico '13 Barolo. I'm still developing my knowledge of Barolo - would love to pick up something that tasted like a Massolino or better wi thout breaking the bank, considering picking this up.

Any advice is much appreciated.

Cheers,

Brandon.

Note this post has had some edits as I didnt realise I was potentially breaking some forum rules earlier.

[swirler]

Good edit!

[tarija]

So, who won all the Bruno Giacosa tonight? Was it Con J?

[Con J]

So, who won all the Bruno Giacosa tonight? Was it Con J?

Yes, I did get some of them.
At one stage I was winning all the 2004's but I ended up the following when the prices went stupid.

2 X 2004 Barbaresco Santo Stefano.
2 X 2004 Barbaresco Rabaja.
2 X 2004 Barolo Falletto Serralunga.

I also got 1 X 2012 Giuseppe Rinaldi - Tre Tine Barolo.

Cheers Con.

[tarija]

So, who won all the Bruno Giacosa tonight? Was it Con J?

Yes, I did get some of them.
At one stage I was winning all the 2004's but I ended up the following when the prices went stupid.

2 X 2004 Barbaresco Santo Stefano.
2 X 2004 Barbaresco Rabaja.
2 X 2004 Barolo Falletto Serralunga.

I also got 1 X 2012 Giuseppe Rinaldi - Tre Tine Barolo.

Cheers Con.

I suspected you might have been amongst the action...decided to stay well away!

Congrats on some fine purchases.

[JamieBahrain]

Lovely wines Con.

[Hunter]

Anyone getting onboard the 2013 Aldo conternos just released. A big price jump this year. Cheaper back filling

[David Librandi]

The Barbera is very smart- tasted at the winery! And the langhe will be a good yardstick for another lauded vintage.

The Roncagliette, according to Olek, is very good.

Thanks Jamie

[Ian S]

Anyone getting onboard the 2013 Aldo conternos just released. A big price jump this year. Cheaper back filling

They got a very intriguing pasting from Galloni (Vinous) that's currently subject of a thread on his own forum, plus WB. Always best to take critical opinion with a pinch of salt, but for someone as relaxed about heavy handed oak as Galloni, his complaints about it would be an element for concern.

I haven't considered them since suffering some early oxidised bottles from 1997 & 1998 (and prices that have gone up significantly), but I got the impression they'd got over that hiccup and I would like to see them successful, even if I'm in no rush to buy again.

[tarija]

Anyone getting onboard the 2013 Aldo conternos just released. A big price jump this year. Cheaper back filling

They got a very intriguing pasting from Galloni (Vinous) that's currently subject of a thread on his own forum, plus WB. Always best to take critical opinion with a pinch of salt, but for someone as relaxed about heavy handed oak as Galloni, his complaints about it would be an element for concern.

I haven't considered them since suffering some early oxidised bottles from 1997 & 1998 (and prices that have gone up significantly), but I got the impression they'd got over that hiccup and I would like to see them successful, even if I'm in no rush to buy again.

Both Giuseppe Mascarello and Aldo Conterno marked down hard by Galloni.

Prudent thing to do, if you like these wines, is to wait for sharp discounts to come by...especially for Aldo, who appears not to be selling through based on quite a lot of back vintage stock floating around at retail.

[JamieBahrain]

Both Giuseppe Mascarello and Aldo Conterno marked down hard by Galloni.

Prudent thing to do, if you like these wines, is to wait for sharp discounts to come by...especially for Aldo, who appears not to be selling through based on quite a lot of back vintage stock floating around at retail.

Hi Tarija

I'm not sure if G Mascarello will be discounted.

I keep meaning to join Galloni's website but just can't get past his Giacosa ratings of 2008 nor a pensive interview where no wine worth 100pts- yet he changed his tune of late. Now I'm not going to bag the guy but I'd love to get to his core issues with Mascarello? He'd be a hundred times more experienced with his wines but I'm shocked he could dismiss a pedigree Cru back to 1970 in a vintage like 2013 without stating serious vineyard or winery issues?

[Ian S]

An interesting recent post on the WB site gives a little more context - Galloni posted in 2016 that they weren't offering him an invite in November, even though he knew of ordinary wine enthusiasts being hosted. He called the situation comical. So bad feeling back then.

On that information, I'm not sure either party looks great. Each of us can make our own judgement.

[tarija]

Both Giuseppe Mascarello and Aldo Conterno marked down hard by Galloni.

Prudent thing to do, if you like these wines, is to wait for sharp discounts to come by...especially for Aldo, who appears not to be selling through based on quite a lot of back vintage stock floating around at retail.

Hi Tarija

I'm not sure if G Mascarello will be discounted.

I keep meaning to join Galloni's website but just can't get past his Giacosa ratings of 2008 nor a pensive interview where no wine worth 100pts- yet he changed his tune of late. Now I'm not going to bag the guy but I'd love to get to his core issues with Mascarello? He'd be a hundred times more experienced with his wines but I'm shocked he could dismiss a pedigree Cru back to 1970 in a vintage like 2013 without stating serious vineyard or winery issues?

Re. Giacosa - I'm no expert, but the 2008 vintage coincide with Dante leaving and the vintage being affected. His opinion of recent wines with Dante's return is more positive.

Re. G Mascarello - he has mentioned extensive replanting at Monprivato and other vineyards, hinting at possible vineyard problems and "generational changes". Seems a little vague, wish he went into more detail here.

I think of note is Antonio's tasting regime. For wineries that he is able to visit, he is tasting the wines throughout the production period, many times from barrel, and quite often several times post bottling as well - sometimes both in Italy and USA. As such, quite an intimate knowledge of these wines.

For the wineries that he has been banned, he is likely only tasting once, in bottle at his own expense, probably in USA. Maybe these A Conterno, G Mascarello wines got marked down because he experienced bad QPR?

What would be interesting would be to hear Ian D'Agata's opinion on the above, as he is extremely knowledgeable about Piedmont.

[Ian S]

Yes, I must admit I find myself more drawn towards what d'Agata has to say than Galloni, as I might be drawn to the opinion of the technician over the sales manager.

[JamieBahrain]

Thanks Tarija

Re. Giacosa - I'm no expert, but the 2008 vintage coincide with Dante leaving and the vintage being affected. His opinion of recent wines with Dante's return is more positive.

Thanks to AG, the 2008 Giacosas were well priced for a few years. I won't say they were significantly discounted but certainly easier to get at good prices. Slowly, word seemed to get out they were better than the trashing they got and stocks started to dwindle. Now, they are just like any other Giacoasa of late- crazy exensive!

Re. G Mascarello - he has mentioned extensive replanting at Monprivato and other vineyards, hinting at possible vineyard problems and "generational changes". Seems a little vague, wish he went into more detail here

I know very well of the "generational" changes as a seasoned cellar door visitor. I won't be returning ! The wines can be had cheaper elsewhere and tastings are stingy and the atmosphere unpleasant.

Prior, even tasting wines open for a week + Mauro and his wife very typically Piedmont warm despite not speaking much english. I would have thought Mauro still making the wines? When I last saw him he was; a few years ago for the 2013 vintage?

As I mentioned earlier I can't argue against a guy like Galloni. It's pointless. I have 6 x 2010, 6 x 2012, 6 x 2013 Monprivato bought on faith. I have heaps of earlier vintages too. That said, 2013 is probably the last time I buy Monprivato as in my experience its glory starts at 20 years and who wouldn't be concerned of the generational change? The last bottle I had was 2001 which I served blind and was not ready though slowly unpeeling- dissed my the majority, it was my WOTN by far and I felt like a traditonalist/ nebbiolo purist ( which I'm not ) . Monprivato for me is such a delicate and cerebral wine with all the wank that entails. Monprivato was $60 a bottle just a half dozen vintages ago and I always put a few bottles up for tasting prior them shutting down for a decade or so. I recall the 2004. Wow! 2006 was just so perfect though so tight. Last mature bottles I had were 1989 and 1990- blessed the experience.

Last time I organized a tour for my wine friends to Piedmont, we had a personal tasting at Giacomo Conterno and G Mascarello at the same time ( limited to 8 at G Conterno ). Couldn't be changed ! It was a seniority decision. Straws were dismiised by the gentry of my tasting group and I gently consoled the younger members that Mascarello was more than a consolation prize. So whilst our senor friends barrel tasted Monfortino and drank older Cascinia Francia, we were hosted by an uninterested daughter with a brief interruption from the son who acted like he was holding court for the House of Savoy in a bygone era. My friends were shocked at how bad the experience was!

Things will change.

Be nice to one day do a Piedmont offline. I'd love to present old Monprivato in magnum.

[JamieBahrain]

Paitin Nebbiolo d'Alba Ca'Veja 2012- I suspect this is the vineyard close to Alba where they have an agriturismo. It's pricing is ambitious for Langhe nebbiolo, sitting the same price as Barbaresco- PdB normale for example. I guess this is a future direction as the quality of Langhe nebbiolo skyrockets- it is the fastest growing appellation of Piedmont.

Opened for three days. Displays beautiful, if elemental, aromatics of red berries and florals, sprinkles of spice - welcoming and gentle. I was hoping it would flesh out over the next few days; it failed to do so, a few years in the cellar may be different- palate intensity dissipates and builds in austerity, at times, accentuating screechy tannins. The aromatics become the highlight- that airy nebbiolo calcareous, red in black fruits mesh with tar and florals.



89pts+


Le Rocche dei Barbari Alivio Barbaresco Riserva 2009- If you walk past PdB you end up at this interesting little cellar in the heart of Barbaresco. Only sold at cellar door or mailing list, you can buy riservas back to 2003. And you can taste them all! Their vineyards are down below the cliffs of Barbaresco on the Tanaro( from facebook ). I was told by the young lass they were at the back of the town, so a little detective work over the next few days will see clarification.

Ripe aromatics as expected, but what I liked was the complexity and lack of pruniness. Powerful mint, herbs, lively and moist undergrowth, choc-berry and smoke. The evenness across the palate is alluring, with a great spread of flavor, some austerity prior leathery, woody tannins and a "developed" persistence.

92pts




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[JamieBahrain]

Just got this email from Aldo Vacca querying the line up of a a Produttori del Barbaresco 2008 horizontal of riservas.

Wasn't sure of the politics and Maritnenga. But i have the lost Cru, Marchesi di Gresy Martinenga 2008 to put into the fold as well. I'm going with between Rio Sordo and Asili, where it sits geographically and I'm guessing in weight?

Ian ? Thoughts?

Hello Jamie,

Depending on what you focus on, tannin, weight, length, you may end up with a slightly different line up, however this is my suggestion:
Pora
Pajè
Rio Sordo
Asili
Ovello
Montefico
Muncagota
Rabajà
Montestefano

Sincerely,

Produttori del Barbaresco s.a.c.
Aldo Vacca

[swirler]

Pora
Pajè
Rio Sordo
Asili
Ovello
Rabajà
Montefico
Muncagota
Montestefano

[JamieBahrain]

And Marchesi di Gresy's normale?

Camp Gros or Gaiun would create their own complications but thankfully I guess, I just have the Martinenga.

[Ian S]

I reckon this is covered on previous WB threads - they do rather enjoy such analysis.

FWIW I have a few I mentally group together:
Montefico & Montestefano last - as the more tightly structured
Asili & Rabaja next to last. These are often the most sought after, though I sometimes wonder whether that's reflected respect to Bruno G's wines.
At the other end I'm probably a little vague - perhaps Pora, Paje and Rio Sordo as the most likely to be approachable
Ovello and Moccagatta / Muncagato in the middle?

As an alternative for the visually excited, why not take a 'walk past the vineyards' using Google street view. I recall seeing very clear signs for these vineyards when we walked from Barbaresco to Tre Stelle many years ago. Having one of the maps, plus then 'walking them through' might be an unusual way to do it. When you reach the signpost for the vineyards, you taste those wines. It should help to focus thoughts on elevation and proximity to the Tanaro river.

Martinenga? Difficult. I never tasted the produttori bottling, though I did see it at a reasonable price in Italy a few years ago. I'm tempted to put it at the end and challenge the group to say which cru it most resembles - get them thinking about where it might fit stylistically .... then get the map out and see if where it sat with the group says more about the terroir or the winemaking. I like this game as I doubt there is a right answer, but gets the grey matter working.

[JamieBahrain]

Perhaps Martinenga being the normale only , will sit comfortably before Rio Sordo.

The Cru reflects both Rabaja above and Asili next door.

I will check with Jeffrey Chilcott at di Gresy.

Have plenty of PdB normal 08 for comparisons and a magnum of 85 Rabaja which has its own story .

[JamieBahrain]

HKWS Vertical & Horizontal of Cappellano’s Barolos: 1947 to 1979

Location: Flint Restaurant, Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place,
Date: March 2nd (Friday)
Time: 7pm


This is the 2nd exclusive tasting by the HKWS of Cappellano’s barolos, but the first exclusively dedicated to tasting the classic single Barolo of this legendary estate. To quote Mannie Berk of the Rare Wine Company: “Cappellano is one of the greatest producers in all of Barolo, and they’ve never received a 100, 95 or even a 90-point score from any modern-day Italian wine critic. The decision to reject the scoring of critics came from Teobaldo Cappellano in 1983, who believed winemaking to be an art form, a work of passion, and one that should not be encapsulated into a single number. Nor did he believe that it was healthy for fellow producers, seeing it as being divisive”. Teobaldo Cappellano passed on in 2009, but his work is being continued by his son. Augusto.

The tasting focuses on the traditional single-label ‘Barolo’ period, from 1947 to 1979 – you will be challenged to identify the one vintage of Barbaresco – the great 1964. Over dinner we will sample 2 of the great modern vintages of the Pie Rupestris vineyard that Augusto has cultivated since the late 1990s: the 2000 and the 2004. Thanks to Flint for proposing some classic Italian dishes – with a Spanish twist.
The cost tonight

Tasting wines: single-bottle tasting
Cappellano Barolo DOCG, Nebbiolo, Piedmont 1947
Cappellano Barolo DOCG, Nebbiolo, Piedmont 1955
Cappellano Barolo DOCG, Nebbiolo, Piedmont 1958
Cappellano Barolo DOCG, Nebbiolo, Piedmont 1961
Cappellano Barolo DOCG, Nebbiolo, Piedmont 1962
Cappellano Barbaresco DOCG, Nebbiolo, Piedmont 1964
Cappellano Barolo DOCG, Nebbiolo, Piedmont 1965
Cappellano Barolo DOCG, Nebbiolo, Piedmont 1967
Cappellano Barolo DOCG, Nebbiolo, Piedmont 1968
Cappellano Barolo DOCG, Nebbiolo, Piedmont 1974
Cappellano Barolo DOCG, Nebbiolo, Piedmont 1978
Cappellano Barolo DOCG, Nebbiolo, Piedmont 1979

Dinner Wines
Vie de Romans Dessimis Pinot Grigio Friuli-Venezia 2013
Cappellano Otin Fiorin Pie Rupestris - Nebbiolo, Barolo 2000
Cappellano Otin Fiorin Pie Rupestris - Nebbiolo, Barolo 2004


Dinner Menu
Scallop Carpaccio with salsa verde, fennel and orange
Wild mushroom risotto, with thyme and aged parmesan crisp
Slow roaster iberico pork loin and braised cheek
Black forest sorbet, with cherry compote and shaved dark chocolate

The Wines of Cappellano

Barolo is an area where fiercely independent people make extraordinary wines. Yet, even in such company, Teobaldo Cappellano, who passed away on February 21, 2009, stood out for his unique philosophy, his meticulous winemaking and the profound character of his wines. A legend in Barolo—and among artisanal growers throughout Italy—Cappellano was one of the last of the region’s great traditionalist winemakers—and he was one of Barolo’s most compelling personalities. In 1983 he banished all journalists from his cellar, unless they agreed to review his wines without scores. (He saw ratings as divisive among growers.) And he may have been the only person who, during his lifetime, made a Barolo from ungrafted vines. With his passing, his son Augusto will continue Teobaldo’s important work, which includes producing the family’s renowned Barolo “Piè Franco” and Barolo “Rupestris”

The near-universal admiration accorded Cappellano was striking, given that his attitudes were often controversial. Variously described as a “wine artist,” “professional polemist,” and a “poet, philosopher and winemaker in his spare time,” he was president of the influential Vini Veri (or “true wine”) group. He was also a longtime leader of Italy’s sustainable agriculture movement. Cappellano has been compared to Bartolo Mascarello, both as a beloved figure and in the depth of his views. And his Barolos were just as firmly rooted in local traditions as were the late Mascarello’s. Cappellano made fewer than 800 cases of Barolo per year, all vinified traditionally: a fermentation of 14 to 21 days with indigenous yeasts and aging in well-seasoned botti for at least three years. His tiny production quickly disappeared into collectors’ cellars in Italy, Switzerland and Germany. As Antonio Galloni once wrote, “Cappellano’s wines are impossibly hard to find, even in neighbouring Alba.”

The Barolos that Cappellano made are classic “old-style” wines, marked by a haunting scent of dried roses and a hint of truffle. Yet, because of his stance on ratings, little has been written about them in America. He made two Barolos—both from the mythic Gabutti vineyard on Serralunga’s best slope. (A few years ago, he removed the Gabutti designation from his labels to protest the expansion of the appellation to include inferior sites.) Two-thirds of his Barolo production was Barolo “Rupestris,” from a parcel planted on grafted rootstock in the 1940s. The grapes from this parcel produce a Barolo of superb depth of colour and remarkable richness and length. His other Barolo was the mythic “Piè Franco,” from a parcel planted on its own roots with Nebbiolo’s “Michet” clone in 1989. The ethereal delicacy of this great wine made Cappellano wonder if this is what Barolo tasted like before Phylloxera.

Cappellano also continued his family’s tradition of making a small amount of their legendary elixir, Barolo Chinato, an infusion of Barolo with quinine bark, clove, wormwood and cinnamon and a small amount of cane sugar. For Cappellano, winemaking was an art. As he told Maurizio Rosso in The Mystique of Barolo, “Making Barolo is hedonism, it is art. Wine is hedonism. But wine, too, needs identity: I need to be able to say “This is Barolo.” Teobaldo Cappellano was a once-in-a-generation winemaker who not only made great wine, he encouraged us all to expect more of ourselves. His son Augusto will carry on Teobaldo’s legacy, assuring us of many more great Cappellano Barolos. Schooled by his father not only in the art, but the philosophy, of winemaking, we can expect nothing less.


Chris James’ 2003 notes on a visit to Cappellano

This was another cold call as each time I drove past the road sign the little voice in my head said, “Inventor of Barolo Chinato” Dr. Cappellano, a pharmacist, invented this mysterious vino aromatico in the early 20th century. The recipe is still a secret although there are imitators. From the side of the road through the gate, I saw a man getting out of his car who turned out to be Sig. Teobaldo Cappellano himself. I called out if I could visit and he waved me in as if he was expecting me. He looked like a painter or a writer, which turned out to be rather accurate as he is a wine artisan. He offered to speak English, which was fine as I was ready for a break from Italian. I told him I wanted to visit as his house was very important in the history of Barolo. He brushed that off and said somewhat cynically, “Where did you read that?” Then he led me inside to a very comfortable tasting room, really more like a den, filled with historical pictures of Barolo past.

Right away he got philosophical. First he told me about his regard for rating publication. If any publication rates or comments on his wines in print without permission, he sues them until they cease. Way back when, Wasserman did not visit him until other producers encouraged him to do so. After conversation and tasting, Wasserman told him he regretted not coming earlier. Cappellano told him that was fine but asked him never to assign ratings to his wines, a request which Wasserman honored as seen in his books (actually I just noticed that he does rank the general bottles, but not the individual vintages). All of this stems from his belief that the whole rating activity is utterly absurd as there cannot possibly be an objective standard. Yes, you can measure acidity or residual sugar, but how can you put a score on how all the components are assembled? How can you score a wines beauty? A painting is not just a collection of colors, but the artist’s insight and passion as reflected in this assembly. Rather than having an objective standard – an impossibility since wine cannot be reduced to scientific measurement – it all comes down to relativistic nonsense. It is like a beauty contest with 100 girls. Any one of them would be stunning alone, yet in a group one is chosen as more stunning than the others. Why and for what? The critics like wines that are like Marilyn Monroe – nice to look at, but no one could stay married to her. He remembers when 1971 was the VOTC. Yet it was terribly hot and the wines from lesser vineyards that were cooler made better wines than the crus with the best exposure. 1971 overshadowed 1970, yet 1970 was really the better vintage. Similarly, in a lineup of 88s, 89s, and 90s, the 88s will get the lowest scores, yet they will be the first bottles to be finished. Why? People love what is gentle, not what is brassy. A great wine is not one that stuns you on the first taste. It is one that you love at the end of the bottle. And yet the critics give this wine 95 points and that one 97 points. On what measurement can that possibly be based? He believes he makes the best wines he possibly can. Why should be care if a critic likes it or not? He doesn’t believe in God (a superior being above him), so why would he possibly worry about a critic’s judgment? And yet people treat these critics like gods and their reviews like bibles.

While we were having this conversation, I was drinking the 2001 Dolcetto Gabbuti (Serralunga cru). Fine pure stuff in the local manner. How does he make it? “The stupidest way possible. I throw the grapes in a steel tank and leave them there until I like the wine.” Next was the 2001 Barbera Gabbuti. This had an odd smell for a red wine. He said it was like Sauvignon Blanc. I thought grapefruit. He said, “Pee pee di gatto” (cat piss). And he said that Mauro Mascarello found the same thing in his 2001 Barbera even though his came from 6 miles away in Castiglione Falletto. So he thought perhaps it is a vintage characteristic. But it is unique and interesting in its own natural way. It could not be repeated even if you wanted to do so. So why judge it as something wrong or inferior instead of just enjoying it for its personality? If it is bad, that is one thing. But if it is good (which it was), what more do you want? What is the point ranking it?

Now there are two kinds of wine: wines for the consumer to enjoy and wines for “jewelry collectors.” Now everyone tries to make superwines. He fears that if laboratory enology continues on its current track it will be really awful. The clamps of technical manipulation and measurement are squeezing all the soul out of the grapes. And all of this is in the name of big scores that seem to only reward concentration. He is a believer in freedom of information, and he thinks that if a winemaker decides to use “innovative methods” (barrique, rotos, cultured yeasts, enzymes, unusually short grape skin contact, etc.), they should say so on the label. Why shouldn’t the consumer know? Why wouldn’t the winemaker share it if he is proud of his results?

Sig. Cappellano said that in addition to local grapes he loves Pinot Noir while hating “thick, black Cabernet Sauvignon.” I mentioned what has happened in Tuscany and that I’ve lost interest in the styles that many producers are pursuing. He quite agreed and said that he absolutely believed that Chianti was better in the past when white grapes were included. But now wine must be as concentrated as possible and Chianti has lost a very special characteristic.

He told me that he is a good friend with Burton Anderson and that they once drank seven bottles of Barolo between the two of them. “Barolo does not give one a headache.” I wish I were so lucky. He also said Wasserman was a great guy and he really appreciated Wasserman’s passion for Italian wines when no one else cared. Cappellano got quite a kick out of Dave Cuneo buying Wasserman’s old cellar and the various gems and toads we have shared.

Next, I was offered the 98 Barolo Otin Fiorin. I thought this showed a bit of vanilla, but he said both his Barbera and Barolo are made in botti. The Barolo showed some wood tannins because he cleaned out his botti right down to raw wood in 1997. He was regretful of the flavor and hoped the 99 would turn out better. And how does he make any of his wines? Without a set system, standard, or pattern. Each year he just tries to find a method suitable to the material that the vintage gives him. True to his beliefs, winemaking is an art form combined with some luck, not a collection of scientific formulas.

Much of Cappellano’s grapes come from ungrafted, pre-Phylloxera vines in the Gabutti vineyard in Serralunga. His family had bought the grapes from the same man for 60 years. In 1989, the grower offered to sell them to Cappellano for 100,000 Lire, and they agreed on a handshake. The man’s neighbor then offered 10%, 20%, 50% more over that price, but the man honored his handshake and didn’t take a Lira more. Regarding the Otin Fiorin Barolo, Otin is Piedmontese for a small plot of land and Fiorin was the grower’s name. The plot used to be called Otin Prete (I think) which means “priest” and since Cappellano also means priest, he though all these priests would be a bit much, so he changed the name to honor the previous owner.

He gave me a back bottle label that sums up his views:
“To wine ‘guides’, humbly speaking: In 1983 I asked the journalist Sheldon Wasserman not to publish scores for my wines. Not only did he not publish the scores; in his book, “Italy’s Noble Red Wines”, he also wrote that I had asked not to be included in ‘classifications’ in which a comparison becomes a divisive numerical term rather than expressing shared human toil. I have not changed my mind: my tiny farm producing 20,000 bottles of wine a year interests only a small number of customer-friends. I believe in freedom of information, even if the judgment is negative. I think of my hills as an anarchical arena, with no inquisitors or opposing factions, whose inner richness is stimulated by severe, thoughtful critics; I strive for a community that can still express solidarity with whoever has not been so well-rewarded by Mother nature. Wishful thinking? Allow me to dream.”



Renato Ratti’s rating of tonight’s mature Barolo vintages
Tasting wines
1947: Exceptional year: A full-bodied, perfectly balanced wine possessing magnificent class and very strong character,
1955: Good year. An exceptionally balanced wine, good vinosity and intense perfume.
1958: Great year. Not a very robust wine, but full, of excellent substance, exceptional elegance and intense perfume.
1961: Great year (majestic) A full wine with great character, highly alcoholic with intense, fine perfume, and wonderfully velvety.
1962: Normal year (‘elegant’). Wine of good substance but not intensely perfumed.
1964: Great year (‘majestic’).
1965: A magnificently balanced wine, with full body, and full and intense perfume.
1967: Excellent year (‘majestic’). A full, robust, intensely-perfumed wine.
1968: Good year (‘elegant’). A velvety, soft, elegantly-perfumed wine of good substance.
1974: Excellent year (‘majestic’). A fully-balanced wine, complete substance, velvety and with a fine, pleasurable perfume.
1978: Great year (‘majestic’). Full and robust, intensely-perfumed with delicate and harmonious flavours, good body and exceptionally-balanced velvet, grand substance and longevity.
1979: Excellent year (‘balanced’). A wine of excellent substance, intense perfume and pleasing character.

Dinner wines
2000: Great year. A complex and structured wine with intense perfumes and a rich, fruity body supported by powerful tannins. Another marvelous vintage designed to improve with ageing.
2004: Antonio Galloni: “one of the all-time great vintages for Barolo. The long, moderate growing season and late harvest produced a set of beautifully perfumed, layered Barolos that are built on class and finesse.


* * *




Copyright © 2018 HKWS, All rights reserved.

[JamieBahrain]

Bored in Saigon airport - some good guff in this for Piedmont tragics.

Will write it up tomorrow

[Ian S]

Good to see someone else with the Ratti vintage posters!

I'm always interested by the food lined up for such a tasting. On the face of it the food demands rich, even gamy food, but if the wines are all Barolo/Barbaresco, then there can be a danger that the richness of the food can be too much. Although such wines are at their best at the dinner table, I rather like the idea of the main tasting first, followed by a more balanced menu, with potential to sweep up any remnants at the end for those with the stamina to do so. The tasting wines should all be mature enough that tannin fatigue doesn't take grip - trying to do the same with a dozen younger wines can be surprisingly tough work

[JamieBahrain]

I don't underestimate the importance with food but I do get somewhat miffed when folks over-empahasize it. Sure, nebbiolo is a "food" wine, more so than many. It drinks well stand-alone too- especially the 2000 Rupestris last night. Cracked another bottle and drank into the wee hours.

Would I risk my 1990 Monfortino with a rack of lamb shanks my helper prepared. Nope. A rare wine is a rare wine and you risk missing shades and nuances with a food-wine mismatch. If I had a dozen 90 Monfortino, sure!. Let's go the lamb shanks.

I feel sorry for wine critics. Those tastings are so awful, drawing palate fatigue, and it probably explains some misunderstanding of nebbiolo IMO such as poor calls on youthful Barbaresco.

Teobaldo Cappellano once said he drank seven bottles of Barolo with a friend and Barolo doesn't give you a headache ( I thought this from beserkers but. can't find the quote ). Well I doubt I got anywhere near this last night and feeling great! Having come out of Vietnamese jungles yesterday morning I did have about 200ml of Chinato for medicinal purposes too.

[swirler]

7 bottles? I don't think I could evaluate wine after much more than one bottle!

You mentioned you have a helper. Wow! Sounds expensive. How much does that work out per hour (salary/hours)?

[JamieBahrain]

I don’t think Treibaldo was assessing any wines to begin with just drinking with a friend.

Domestic help is common in Hong Kong and even with low local wages compared to oz, is used by most local families . Abuse is common mostly from locals . Sad really as it’s the only way many families in poor Asian nations supported .

Our employee ( Helper such a crappy name ) makes awesome Barolo friendly foods.