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1990 Balgownie Chardonnay-a real eye opener

Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2008 10:57 pm
by Mahmoud Ali
Balgownie Chardonnay, Premier Cuvee 1990, Series One


Here was a wine that I bought many years ago. At the time I knew that Balgownie was a good producer and so a bottle went into the cellar with no particular cellaring time in mind. The years went by and it got overlooked. Occasionally I would spot it and it occured to me that it represented the oldest Chardonnay in my cellar. Now it became a matter of “wine education”, a test, as it were, of how long a Chardonnay could be cellared.

Tonight the Balgownie prooved that a well made Australian Chardonnay can last 18 years.

Pale yellow gold in colour this wine looks young (not like the 1997 Eileen Hardy I had last week). The refined nose featured ripe melon, a hint of grapefruit and fine cashew nut oak. One could go on sniffing it without feeling the need to taste it. The palate was fresh but delicate, not much fruit but lovely citrusy elements mingled with the toasty but refined oak. With a nice lingering finish and plenty of acidity it went well with the baked salmon and onion couscous. One guest said it was one of the finest Australian Chardonnay she had tasted. Quite the kudos for the much maligned mature Chardonnay.

Perhaps the key to the wine’s longevity is what’s on the back label: “This wine is produced from hand pruned and harvested chardonnay grapes from the Coonawarra region of South Australia. Traditional Burgundian fermentation and oak maturation techniques have created a rich full flavoured style that can be enjoyed now or will repay cellar maturation.” Too bad there aren't many winemakers making this kind of Chardonnay.

One thing I just noticed as I was finishing this post was that the wine is only "11.0% alc/vol"---nobody at the table noticed. I wish I had a few more bottles to take around to the tastings. Nothing like shattering stereotypes.

Cheers...............Mahmoud.

Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2008 11:17 pm
by Michael McNally
Nice note. Thanks Mahmoud.

Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 3:03 am
by Old Salt
Hi Mahmood (et al)

Not commenting on the Chard. but Balgownie wines in general.

Being selfish, I hope they stay below the radar (got plenty of the better years in storage (120+) and their 03 Pinot was a "bottler" for the price, great buy at the time and still drinkind well in 08. Balgownie certainly lifted its game since the Foresters family took over. Their wines, Estate (Bendigo) are underpriced - but that's my opinion given their current RRP).

Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 10:34 am
by Craig(NZ)
Tonight the Balgownie prooved that a well made Australian Chardonnay can last 18 years


If you have 18yo chardy surviving in your cellar you buy too many chardies :lol:

but seriously yeah good when an 'experiment' goes better than expected!

Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 12:48 pm
by Sean
deleted

Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 1:57 pm
by BigBob
The methods described are pretty similar to how most non-commercial oaked chardonnays are produced in Australia.

But just because we use Burgundian techniques doesn't make the wines in any wa Burgundian!

I would think that it would have been picked slightly greener than is typical, with more acid to carry the age.

Can you remember the alcohol level? I would think it would be non more than 13.5%.

Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 7:31 pm
by Mahmoud Ali
Hi,

Craig, I only have about half dozen or so chardonnays. Strangely enough all of them are from Australia, mostly 1998, but there is a '92 Mountadam (can't remember where I got it) and a couple of '95 Vat 47.

Sean, the only way I could expect to drink a 20 y.o. Chardonnays was if I kept the Mountadam for another 4 years. Not many people I know would keep a Chardonnay that long.

Big Bob, the alcohol level of the Balgownie was 11.0%!!!

Cheers......Mahmoud

Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 8:24 am
by Roscoe
Mahmoud
Good luck with the Vat 47s. In my experience, Tyrrell's corks are just a complete lottery (i.e more of a lottery than other corks). Could be great wines, or could be straight down the sink. Unfortunately I think the latter is more likely.

Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 9:27 am
by BigBob
Mahmoud Ali wrote:Hi,

Craig, I only have about half dozen or so chardonnays. Strangely enough all of them are from Australia, mostly 1998, but there is a '92 Mountadam (can't remember where I got it) and a couple of '95 Vat 47.

Sean, the only way I could expect to drink a 20 y.o. Chardonnays was if I kept the Mountadam for another 4 years. Not many people I know would keep a Chardonnay that long.

Big Bob, the alcohol level of the Balgownie was 11.0%!!!

Cheers......Mahmoud


And there it is - picked way greener than anyone would pick chardonnay now. I always tried to keep the alcohol below 13% when making oaked chardonnay.

Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 6:09 am
by Mahmoud Ali
Roscoe, I've always had pretty good luck with Australian wines, hardly any corked wines (keeping my fingers crossed).

Big Bob, where do you make your Chardonnay?

Mahmoud.

Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 8:29 am
by Roscoe
Mahmoud
The problems I have had with Tyrells corks have been oxidation more then TCA. I hope you haven't got dud ones in your 47s.

Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 10:05 am
by BigBob
Mahmoud Ali wrote:Big Bob, where do you make your Chardonnay?

Mahmoud.


Currently not anywhere, having a career breather doing other things. I have made Chardonnay in every winemaking state in Aus except SA!

Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 2:37 am
by Daryl Douglas
BigBob wrote:
Mahmoud Ali wrote:Big Bob, where do you make your Chardonnay?

Mahmoud.


Currently not anywhere, having a career breather doing other things. I have made Chardonnay in every winemaking state in Aus except SA!


Including NT and Qld?

Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 9:58 am
by BigBob
Except for NT as well, although I don't know whether Mango wine counts...