TN: Adelaide Offline Marathon @ Soho Restaurant 29/6/07
Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 8:24 pm
The third Auswine offline for the year was held at Soho Restaurant (73 Melbourne Street, North Adelaide). This time there were 16 attending and it was in the undercover courtyard out the back - I must make special mention of Mark, Jamie & John who were here from Brisbane, Hong Kong & Canada respectively, and managed to cram this in before heading back. I hope you enjoyed it guys!
My thanks go to Bradley & Peta and the rest of staff for looking after us so well, and for everyone there from the forum who shared some stunning and interesting wines again. The food and service were fantastic as usual, although this time our attempt to have a reasonably structured and timed tasting didn’t work as well. Thinking back, the idea of trying to time 34 wines around three courses was way too ambitious, and realistically we really needed a degustation menu and an extra couple of hours. The number of wines meant two were poured about every 20 minutes, and the extra whites & pinots at the beginning resulted in a shortage of ice buckets, plus I asked the main course to be delayed to try and time it with the last of the Cabernets/first big Shiraz. I have to take the blame for really underestimating the magnitude of this one, so my apologies folks.
1988 Croser MM Sparkling Pinot Chardonnay (magnum): A great sparkling to begin the night with while people were arriving, a little creamy and showing just a touch of bacon with strong stonefruit. Very good drinking now but still has a lot of gas left in the tank.
1991 Seppelt Show Sparkling Shiraz: Definite barnyard characters but not feral at all, the leathery/chocolaty, sweet raspberry fruit still singing after 16 years – I can definitely handle bottles like this one.
Rockford Sparkling Black Shiraz (2003 disg'): This let out a loud pop to let everyone know there was no problems with the cork on this one! Very young and sweet, with chocolaty red berry fruit and some obvious coffee oak – looked a bit sweet and simple compared to the SSS.
2006 Kabminye Barossa Valley Pinot Blanc: Soapy/floral nose with a hint of flint, fennel and apple; very dry, yeasty, fino-like palate, I thought this worked pretty well as a palate cleanser between the sparkling wines and following whites.
2003 Max Ferd Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett: Very waxy nose with a bit of sweet honey, then kerosene and sugary biscuits; rather sweet, lightweight and simple palate of pineapple and sugar on entry, followed by a very dry, chewy finish.
2003 Petaluma Hanlin Hill Clare Valley Riesling: There’s still a little lime left on the nose but also some kerosene, spice and flint; the palate’s dry and pithy, the lemon fruit pushed in the background by the structure, finishing slightly nutty. This was in an awkward phase and isn’t very attractive, especially when some mousy characters began to appear – disappointing.
2007 Sevenhill Inigo Clare Valley Riesling: Gorgeous blossom of sweet lime, bubblegum and bathroom scents on the nose; the palate wasn’t as sweet, a spicy lemon entry followed by zesty/tingly mineral characters, finishing dry and crisp.
2006 Parish Hill Vermentino: Interesting, spicy, floral and waxy wine with just a hint of sulphur at first, then talcum powder and a little pickled capsicum. This is a very savoury style that probably needs the right food to show off it’s best, but still promising and interesting at the time.
2007 Coriole Fiano: Sweaty/over extracted wine with bitter passionfruit, pear and a little fennel; this reminded me of recent Primo Estate Colombards that I’ve equally disliked.
2003 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay: Huge amounts of sweet vanillin oak and malo characters on the nose, at one time displaying some distinctive crushed ants/formic acid characters; the palate’s just as dominated by the oak, and while there’s a good weight of melon/stonefruit underneath it looked a bit flabby and unbalanced at present compared to the other Chardonnays.
2005 Lillydale Estate Chardonnay: In contrast to the LEAS this opened with strong grapefruit characters with a hint of grass, yet tried after the Shaw & Smith some sweet/cashew oak becomes noticeable. The palate’s just as balanced and complex, with citrus, stonefruit, some mineral and supporting sweet oak; easy to see how this is such a prolific trophy winner on this form
2005 Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay: Tight citrus/mineral characters with some lanolin and just a hint of toasty/cashew oak in the background; the palate’s main focus seems to be elegance with the structure taking centre stage, the fruit reserved and the tight-grained/spicy oak in a supporting role. I was really surprised with this and actually marginally liked it a bit better than the Lillydale on the night, but I have to add that overall the flight of three Chardonnays was very impressive.
2000 Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon: A surprising and unexpected sweet burst of fresh blossom and spice, but within a few minutes it’s much more predictable tight and waxy characters take over. The palate’s tight and waxy throughout, with powerful lemon fruit and a long structure; it’s a little simple at the moment but still very young.
2004 De Bortoli Yarra Valley Pinot Noir: Sweet cherries with some caramel oak on the nose; after an initial burst of sweet cherry fruit, the lightweight palate is very dry and acidic with just a hint of stalks. After liking the Gulf Station I had high hopes for this, but it was well and truly out-gunned here.
2003 Ashton Hills Estate Pinot Noir: This had similar cherry and stalky characters to the De Bortoli, yet the fruit was a bit riper, fatter and fuller, the finish slightly grainy, mouth-filling and very long. There’s just enough funk to make this very interesting and complex, and it’s balance and poise made it the best of the three Pinots by a big margin.
2005 Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Santa Barbera Pinot Noir (cork dancer 5.1): Mark was good enough to share his only bottle of this wine famous from the movie “Sidewaysâ€Â, but unfortunately I found it a bit too feral for my liking; the brett’s in full swing, beef stock, peperoni, cloves & amalgam, and the palate’s featherweight in comparison to the Ashton Hills.
2000 Domaine Grand Veneur ‘Les Origines’ Chateauneuf du Pape: Gorgeous, clean, inky nose, and sweet dark cherry/raspberry and liquorice on the palate, which was medium-weight but perfectly balanced. John brought this bottle all the way from Canada this week, and for an old-world wine this was very clean, elegant, reserved and powerful, and was among my favourites of the night.
1993 Guigal Brune et Blonde Cote Rotie: Strange wine, seriously bretty and also very green and oaky, with mint/peas, smoke, hot metal, and coffee; the palate’s thin, dry, tannic, and unappealing. Not really what I was expecting.
2001 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo Toscana IGT: Wheaty/toasty nose at first matched by ripe sour cherry/plum fruit, savoury, minty, then cigar box and tobacco, and finally a bit of cashew and just a little savoury meats to finish with. The palate was ripe, full bodied and velvety, it’s weight and texture excellent; this stunning Sangiovese/Merlot Super Tuscan was John’s second bottle he brought with him from Canada and WOTN for many.
1970 Chateaux Meyney Prieure des Couleys, St Estephe (magnum): Oxidised – I should have flipped this at auction when I had the chance.
1985 Chateau Canon 1er Grand Cru Classe, St-Emilion: Green nose with a hint of tomato, smoke, pepper, animal fur and green capsicum; the palate’s dry, tannic, earthy and well balanced, with tart fruit, bitter chocolate and a hint of tomato, finishing very long and grainy. The balance and length of this was great, although trying it with the Pyrus made it look a little old and foursquare; it’s a pity the Meyney turned out to be a dud, as I think it could have been a better tasting companion.
1998 Lindemans Pyrus Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc: While the lighting made it pretty difficult to judge the colour of the wines, this still looked incredibly youthful for its age. Powerful and young, tart blackcurrant fruit supported by classy nutty/biscuity oak and fine tannins, this reminded me a little of a young Wynns John Riddoch. When hard-pressed, in a close call I actually would settle on this as my WOTN.
2001 Majella Malleea Cabernet Shiraz: Dominant coconut/vanilla oak with a hint of glue on the nose; the palate’s a huge mesh of ripe cassis/blueberry/blackberry fruit and vanillin oak with hefty integrated tannins and a long coffee finish. This looked a bit oaky and clumsy at the moment against the classy Pyrus, but should sort itself out in a few years.
1999 Orlando Lawsons Padthaway Shiraz: I remember when I first tried this wine a few years ago – it had a fair amount of VA on the nose and surprisingly ripe fruit, then at the end of the night Gavin poured half of it on his lawn out the back! The wine’s changed since then, having those typically dominant Lawsons' spearmint characters, yet there’s still a good core of ripe blackberry fruit and classy nutty oak in support. I actually quite liked this, which was a bit of a surprise considering its company.
2004 Winter Creek Barossa Shiraz: Sweet blackberries and a hint of black pepper, then nutty/dark chocolate; the palate’s medium weight and just as clean and well balanced, with a long elegant finish. A classic but understated Barossa Shiraz that will live a long time, and put a lot of bigger names to shame.
2004 Algy Bros Cotes Du Roussillon Carignan Syrah Grenache: While the previous wine was squeaky clean this wasn’t - it’s sweet, funky, spicy, stinky, nutty and feral; mid-weight palate with good fruit sweetness, but the wine’s just too dirty for my liking (with the surrounding wines anyway – maybe it should have been poured after the Pinots).
1999 Jasper Hill Georgia’s Paddock Shiraz: Ripe, slightly stewed blackberry on the nose with just a little hint of spirit; medium-to-full weight palate of clean blackberry fruit and just a hint of mint, the tannins very obvious in true Heathcote style.
2000 Red Edge Shiraz: Porty nose of liquorice, then formic acid, something looking maybe a little over-extracted; in contrast the palate’s simple and amazingly short, pretty much a boring wine with nothing going for it.
2002 Jeanneret Denis Clare Valley Shiraz: Slightly cooler fruit here, with blackberry/raspberry and a hint of green/mint; the palate’s typical of Clare, on the very dry side with tart/slender fruit in comparison with the surrounding Shiraz, elegant but a little austere. Should age well though.
2005 Coates The Gimp McLaren Vale Shiraz: Sweet blackberries and equally sweet oak, this takes no prisoners and is really one for the hedonists (so to speak).
2002 Charles Melton Barossa Shiraz: I think this stayed down the other end of the table and I didn't try it – if I did I was slack and didn’t write anything.
2003 Dragon Seal Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon: Unusual nose of sweet plum, blue metal, kalamata olives and rubber/smoke; the palate’s not pretty, thin, tannic, smoky, metallic and whatever fruit’s sickly sweet, finishing with salami, amalgam and cashew nut. I doubt this will be a cheap Chinese import our producers will be too worried about.
2005 Kracher Beerenauslese Cuvee (375ml): Quince with a touch of pineapple, honey and coconut; well-balanced palate, refreshing with quince & pineapple/orange juice and a little wax, finishing with some lemon zest.
1972 Stonyfell Metala Vintage Port: Dark prunes, classy leather, earthy chocolate/toffee and espresso, and just a little sweet liquorice, this is in great shape for a 35 year old, relatively unheralded VP. Considering what else we drank it was a little surprising to see the majority of this lapped up at the end of the night – actually there wasn’t much left of any of the reds except the Dragon Seal!
Cheers
Ian
My thanks go to Bradley & Peta and the rest of staff for looking after us so well, and for everyone there from the forum who shared some stunning and interesting wines again. The food and service were fantastic as usual, although this time our attempt to have a reasonably structured and timed tasting didn’t work as well. Thinking back, the idea of trying to time 34 wines around three courses was way too ambitious, and realistically we really needed a degustation menu and an extra couple of hours. The number of wines meant two were poured about every 20 minutes, and the extra whites & pinots at the beginning resulted in a shortage of ice buckets, plus I asked the main course to be delayed to try and time it with the last of the Cabernets/first big Shiraz. I have to take the blame for really underestimating the magnitude of this one, so my apologies folks.
1988 Croser MM Sparkling Pinot Chardonnay (magnum): A great sparkling to begin the night with while people were arriving, a little creamy and showing just a touch of bacon with strong stonefruit. Very good drinking now but still has a lot of gas left in the tank.
1991 Seppelt Show Sparkling Shiraz: Definite barnyard characters but not feral at all, the leathery/chocolaty, sweet raspberry fruit still singing after 16 years – I can definitely handle bottles like this one.
Rockford Sparkling Black Shiraz (2003 disg'): This let out a loud pop to let everyone know there was no problems with the cork on this one! Very young and sweet, with chocolaty red berry fruit and some obvious coffee oak – looked a bit sweet and simple compared to the SSS.
2006 Kabminye Barossa Valley Pinot Blanc: Soapy/floral nose with a hint of flint, fennel and apple; very dry, yeasty, fino-like palate, I thought this worked pretty well as a palate cleanser between the sparkling wines and following whites.
2003 Max Ferd Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett: Very waxy nose with a bit of sweet honey, then kerosene and sugary biscuits; rather sweet, lightweight and simple palate of pineapple and sugar on entry, followed by a very dry, chewy finish.
2003 Petaluma Hanlin Hill Clare Valley Riesling: There’s still a little lime left on the nose but also some kerosene, spice and flint; the palate’s dry and pithy, the lemon fruit pushed in the background by the structure, finishing slightly nutty. This was in an awkward phase and isn’t very attractive, especially when some mousy characters began to appear – disappointing.
2007 Sevenhill Inigo Clare Valley Riesling: Gorgeous blossom of sweet lime, bubblegum and bathroom scents on the nose; the palate wasn’t as sweet, a spicy lemon entry followed by zesty/tingly mineral characters, finishing dry and crisp.
2006 Parish Hill Vermentino: Interesting, spicy, floral and waxy wine with just a hint of sulphur at first, then talcum powder and a little pickled capsicum. This is a very savoury style that probably needs the right food to show off it’s best, but still promising and interesting at the time.
2007 Coriole Fiano: Sweaty/over extracted wine with bitter passionfruit, pear and a little fennel; this reminded me of recent Primo Estate Colombards that I’ve equally disliked.
2003 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay: Huge amounts of sweet vanillin oak and malo characters on the nose, at one time displaying some distinctive crushed ants/formic acid characters; the palate’s just as dominated by the oak, and while there’s a good weight of melon/stonefruit underneath it looked a bit flabby and unbalanced at present compared to the other Chardonnays.
2005 Lillydale Estate Chardonnay: In contrast to the LEAS this opened with strong grapefruit characters with a hint of grass, yet tried after the Shaw & Smith some sweet/cashew oak becomes noticeable. The palate’s just as balanced and complex, with citrus, stonefruit, some mineral and supporting sweet oak; easy to see how this is such a prolific trophy winner on this form
2005 Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay: Tight citrus/mineral characters with some lanolin and just a hint of toasty/cashew oak in the background; the palate’s main focus seems to be elegance with the structure taking centre stage, the fruit reserved and the tight-grained/spicy oak in a supporting role. I was really surprised with this and actually marginally liked it a bit better than the Lillydale on the night, but I have to add that overall the flight of three Chardonnays was very impressive.
2000 Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon: A surprising and unexpected sweet burst of fresh blossom and spice, but within a few minutes it’s much more predictable tight and waxy characters take over. The palate’s tight and waxy throughout, with powerful lemon fruit and a long structure; it’s a little simple at the moment but still very young.
2004 De Bortoli Yarra Valley Pinot Noir: Sweet cherries with some caramel oak on the nose; after an initial burst of sweet cherry fruit, the lightweight palate is very dry and acidic with just a hint of stalks. After liking the Gulf Station I had high hopes for this, but it was well and truly out-gunned here.
2003 Ashton Hills Estate Pinot Noir: This had similar cherry and stalky characters to the De Bortoli, yet the fruit was a bit riper, fatter and fuller, the finish slightly grainy, mouth-filling and very long. There’s just enough funk to make this very interesting and complex, and it’s balance and poise made it the best of the three Pinots by a big margin.
2005 Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Santa Barbera Pinot Noir (cork dancer 5.1): Mark was good enough to share his only bottle of this wine famous from the movie “Sidewaysâ€Â, but unfortunately I found it a bit too feral for my liking; the brett’s in full swing, beef stock, peperoni, cloves & amalgam, and the palate’s featherweight in comparison to the Ashton Hills.
2000 Domaine Grand Veneur ‘Les Origines’ Chateauneuf du Pape: Gorgeous, clean, inky nose, and sweet dark cherry/raspberry and liquorice on the palate, which was medium-weight but perfectly balanced. John brought this bottle all the way from Canada this week, and for an old-world wine this was very clean, elegant, reserved and powerful, and was among my favourites of the night.
1993 Guigal Brune et Blonde Cote Rotie: Strange wine, seriously bretty and also very green and oaky, with mint/peas, smoke, hot metal, and coffee; the palate’s thin, dry, tannic, and unappealing. Not really what I was expecting.
2001 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo Toscana IGT: Wheaty/toasty nose at first matched by ripe sour cherry/plum fruit, savoury, minty, then cigar box and tobacco, and finally a bit of cashew and just a little savoury meats to finish with. The palate was ripe, full bodied and velvety, it’s weight and texture excellent; this stunning Sangiovese/Merlot Super Tuscan was John’s second bottle he brought with him from Canada and WOTN for many.
1970 Chateaux Meyney Prieure des Couleys, St Estephe (magnum): Oxidised – I should have flipped this at auction when I had the chance.
1985 Chateau Canon 1er Grand Cru Classe, St-Emilion: Green nose with a hint of tomato, smoke, pepper, animal fur and green capsicum; the palate’s dry, tannic, earthy and well balanced, with tart fruit, bitter chocolate and a hint of tomato, finishing very long and grainy. The balance and length of this was great, although trying it with the Pyrus made it look a little old and foursquare; it’s a pity the Meyney turned out to be a dud, as I think it could have been a better tasting companion.
1998 Lindemans Pyrus Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc: While the lighting made it pretty difficult to judge the colour of the wines, this still looked incredibly youthful for its age. Powerful and young, tart blackcurrant fruit supported by classy nutty/biscuity oak and fine tannins, this reminded me a little of a young Wynns John Riddoch. When hard-pressed, in a close call I actually would settle on this as my WOTN.
2001 Majella Malleea Cabernet Shiraz: Dominant coconut/vanilla oak with a hint of glue on the nose; the palate’s a huge mesh of ripe cassis/blueberry/blackberry fruit and vanillin oak with hefty integrated tannins and a long coffee finish. This looked a bit oaky and clumsy at the moment against the classy Pyrus, but should sort itself out in a few years.
1999 Orlando Lawsons Padthaway Shiraz: I remember when I first tried this wine a few years ago – it had a fair amount of VA on the nose and surprisingly ripe fruit, then at the end of the night Gavin poured half of it on his lawn out the back! The wine’s changed since then, having those typically dominant Lawsons' spearmint characters, yet there’s still a good core of ripe blackberry fruit and classy nutty oak in support. I actually quite liked this, which was a bit of a surprise considering its company.
2004 Winter Creek Barossa Shiraz: Sweet blackberries and a hint of black pepper, then nutty/dark chocolate; the palate’s medium weight and just as clean and well balanced, with a long elegant finish. A classic but understated Barossa Shiraz that will live a long time, and put a lot of bigger names to shame.
2004 Algy Bros Cotes Du Roussillon Carignan Syrah Grenache: While the previous wine was squeaky clean this wasn’t - it’s sweet, funky, spicy, stinky, nutty and feral; mid-weight palate with good fruit sweetness, but the wine’s just too dirty for my liking (with the surrounding wines anyway – maybe it should have been poured after the Pinots).
1999 Jasper Hill Georgia’s Paddock Shiraz: Ripe, slightly stewed blackberry on the nose with just a little hint of spirit; medium-to-full weight palate of clean blackberry fruit and just a hint of mint, the tannins very obvious in true Heathcote style.
2000 Red Edge Shiraz: Porty nose of liquorice, then formic acid, something looking maybe a little over-extracted; in contrast the palate’s simple and amazingly short, pretty much a boring wine with nothing going for it.
2002 Jeanneret Denis Clare Valley Shiraz: Slightly cooler fruit here, with blackberry/raspberry and a hint of green/mint; the palate’s typical of Clare, on the very dry side with tart/slender fruit in comparison with the surrounding Shiraz, elegant but a little austere. Should age well though.
2005 Coates The Gimp McLaren Vale Shiraz: Sweet blackberries and equally sweet oak, this takes no prisoners and is really one for the hedonists (so to speak).
2002 Charles Melton Barossa Shiraz: I think this stayed down the other end of the table and I didn't try it – if I did I was slack and didn’t write anything.
2003 Dragon Seal Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon: Unusual nose of sweet plum, blue metal, kalamata olives and rubber/smoke; the palate’s not pretty, thin, tannic, smoky, metallic and whatever fruit’s sickly sweet, finishing with salami, amalgam and cashew nut. I doubt this will be a cheap Chinese import our producers will be too worried about.
2005 Kracher Beerenauslese Cuvee (375ml): Quince with a touch of pineapple, honey and coconut; well-balanced palate, refreshing with quince & pineapple/orange juice and a little wax, finishing with some lemon zest.
1972 Stonyfell Metala Vintage Port: Dark prunes, classy leather, earthy chocolate/toffee and espresso, and just a little sweet liquorice, this is in great shape for a 35 year old, relatively unheralded VP. Considering what else we drank it was a little surprising to see the majority of this lapped up at the end of the night – actually there wasn’t much left of any of the reds except the Dragon Seal!
Cheers
Ian