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96PolWinston, 55Wynns Michael, 64Wynns, 76Grange, 82LLC,more

Posted: Sun May 13, 2007 5:43 pm
by Baby Chickpea
NV Ruinart Blanc de Blanc Champagne
Big mousse with dense bubbles. Nose packed with fresh whipped vanilla cream! Palate has not only lovely softness but also beautiful length, and requisite structure. Finishes with plenty of acid (typical of youthful BdB style) that some found too sour. Lovely wine – fresh, delicate, elegant and individualistic.
90/100

1996 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill Champagne
Powerfully complex nose blazing out reams of fresh vanilla, marzipan, lemon meringue and strawberries. Awesome focus and structure on the palate with stunning length, and amazingly approachable. Best Winston I have ever had by a long margin. You’re a fool if you love champagne and don’t buy this great wine. An indisputably great wine now; a legend in 10+ years.
95+/100

1988 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Champagne
Gold colour. Very developed oxidative nose with hints of hazelnuts, sherry and cognac. Palate is antithetical and lovely – strikingly youthful, tight and shy. Excellent length and body. Seemed a little awkward at this stage and may have needed more airtime. Outstanding wine though.
92/100

1989 Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric-Émile Vendage Tardive Riesling
A touch too acidic but with excellent upfront fruit sweetness. Very good length. Have to admit I didn’t pay much attention to this as the following wine was being poured…
89/100

1955 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Hermitage Claret [aka “Michael Shiraz”]
One of the legends of Australian wine, and the 1st Michael Shiraz (the second was released with the 1990 vintage). One 500-gallon vat stood out (about 2,300 litres) and was bottled separately by David Wynn and named after his son. With current prices of $3,000+ (even more exxy than the more famous 1962 Penfolds Bin 60A), I thought it unlikely I would ever get to try this wine. And here it is. The legend. The reason for tonight’s celebration. The level was high shoulder. The cork in one piece (just). The colour surprisingly mid red, with clear bricking. The 1st aromas: VA, acetone. Then after 10 minutes of gentle coaxing in the glass: pomegranate molasses, blackberries. All still austere. After 45 minutes: old leather boots, herbs and spice, with judicious sweet oak (supposedly matured in old fortified wine casks). After one hour: fruit sweetness seeping in lifting the overall profile of this wine to alarming complexity. The palate too is lovely with both old bones and generous fruit, dissipating with trenchant acidity that comes to the fore like sour cherries or red burgundy. Tannins completely resolved. Held for over 4 hours in Mark’s glass. In deference and utmost respect to this wine and its maker, no score. Some wines, like many experiences, transcend such mortal subjectivities and insignificancies. Because this wine, while it sat in my glass for nigh on 2.5 hours, evolved and changed, refusing to yield its last gasp of breath (which never came, despite 52 years of age), provided many wonderful and evocative memories and passing of history that only time (and age) can sadly erase. No number can express the marvel of drinking this wine, such that I want the smell, taste and feel of this wine to live with me in memoriam. Thank you to Mark Stevens for this extreme act of generosity and the chance to drink one of Australia's most famous (and rarest) wines. The exemplification of how wine can enrich one’s life.
NR

1964 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Claret
The backup wine, but given how quickly we were downing bottles, the call came out to open the bottle. Bigger wine and more powerful than the 55 Michael with rampant gobs of nail polish remover. Not as complex, more one dimensional and singular. Initially preferred this wine because of its power (lots of soy and BBQ sauce flavours!), length and less acidic backbone but in the end this wine had nowhere to go. It is what it was. The 55 showed more complexity and character.
92/100

1982 Chateau Léoville-Las Cases (St.-Julien)
Compared to previous bottles, this one was a little below par or simply suffered being squashed in between two great wines. This bottle was more overtly green, vegetable-laden and forward, masking that blackberry/cassis authority it possesses. Make no mistake this was still fine wine, quite youthful but made to look simple when it stood beside the wine that followed. Not the table lifter that other bottles have been unfortunately. Not from my cellar (where they have been stupendous).
92/100

1976 Penfolds Grange Hermitage
A clear step up in intensity, complexity and glory from the LLC. Massive deep red. The nose? Well I knew that this was special when I could smell it being poured in the decanter, from across the table!. Swirling aromas erupt from the bouquet with coffee, red and black fruits, spice, ground ginger, soy and liquorice. It’s all here, honed, focussed, seamless and glorious. The palate too mirrors the bouquet, with astounding length, vibrant ripe fruit, concentration, beautiful texture and mouth-feel, and some of the most seductive tannins you will find in any wine. As good as the silky 82 Grange was last week, this one goes even further with more of everything crammed in yet always in equally stunning balance. It is not without reason that this is one of the greatest Grange’s ever produced, and is still young. I will be keeping my 6 bottles for a further 10 years. A true ‘wow’ wine. Awesome in a word. WOTN.
96+/100

1970 Graham’s Vintage Port
Excellent and powerful and still oh-so-youthful. Needs a decade more time. Alcohol augments this wine with sweet purity. In many cases, like a decadent Xmas fruitcake loaded with cranberries, raising and ripe black fruits. Excellent wine.
91/100

1998 Zind Humbrecht Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain (??) Sélections de Grains Nobles
Deep gold. Intensely concentrated nose and bouquet akin to golden syrup! Jam-packed with honey, marmalade, and five spice. Weighty and unctuous. Perhaps only lacking enough acid to match the enormous fruit profile. Super powerful and gorgeous wine that stains the teeth.
93/100

Posted: Sun May 13, 2007 5:51 pm
by Wayno
Awesome notes for what sound like some pretty awesome wines.

Posted: Sun May 13, 2007 6:25 pm
by Wizz
Wow, Super quality tasting Danny - must be rare when an 89 VT is the least of the wines poured,

AB

Posted: Sun May 13, 2007 6:34 pm
by Gianna
WOW - a phenomenal set of wines Danny.

I have a few bottles of the 76 Grange that I bought at auction many years ago and have been tempted to open several times, but hesitated at the last minute. Do you really think they will go another 10 yrs ?

Awesome Notes.... :D

Posted: Sun May 13, 2007 7:20 pm
by Baby Chickpea
Without a doubt Gianna I think it will not only go 10 years but improve further. Everybody else felt it was too young still. A true Aussie legend. Normal caveats re: provenance, old bottles, etc apply.

Posted: Sun May 13, 2007 8:16 pm
by Julio
I was given a bottle of the 1996 Pol Sir Winston recently as a gift - it is safely tucked away... can't wait after reading that.

Posted: Sun May 13, 2007 11:10 pm
by 707
Fabulous event.

Being a Coonawarra fan and a Wynns fan (I cut my teeth on 70, 71 & 72 Black) I've always wanted to try the legendary Michael. Might just have to settle for your notes as the closest I get.

Being a VP fan I was pleased to see the 70 Grahams is holding well. I've got a few 70s from various houses and I'm planning a 1970s Aust & Portugeuse VP tasting for Blacktongues in July so will look think about a 1970 being included.

Don't need reminding about the 82 Leoville. I had a six pack but that along with a heap of other 82 seconds and thirds went to auction to fund a divorce. Note to self - get a pre nup if there's a next time!

Thanks for the great notes

Posted: Mon May 14, 2007 8:47 am
by GraemeG
Holy smoke, Danny! These sure are impressive wines you get to drink. So now I'm looking forward to some notes on Woodley's Treasure Chests and the 1872 Craiglee...
chers,
Graeme

Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 11:14 am
by prester john
Thank you very much for the notes, Danny.

I can only echo what previous writers have stated. A truly exceptional and remarkable tasting and exceptional notes. The Michael would have made this a historic event and a great act of generosity by Mark. You and the others are most privileged.

A tasting of the Michael would be one of my great dreams which I think I will never achieve, along with perhaps a tasting of a Bin 60A and perhaps a 1945 Margaux. Still, I keep dreaming.

I compliment you on not rating this wine. A number doesn't do it justice, whatever that number may be. The notes and the occasion are enough to do it justice, if that is at all possible.

BTW, did you stand in the presence of this wine, as they were advised to do a few years ago when that famous group tasted the Bin 60A?

Thanks again.

PJ

Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 4:30 am
by camw
NV Ruinart Blanc de Blanc Champagne
Very aggressive, swirling bead. Nose is strongly peachy with some pear and melted cheese on toast. A creaminess to the initial mouth-feel, but finishes slightly tart and sour. The strong acid cleanses your palate, but can be a little bit difficult to drink after the first glass.
87/100

1996 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill Champagne
Pretty closed on the nose to begin with, but as it warmed up, it opened to reveal a classy nose of grapefruit, marzipan, smoke and vanilla. Elegant fruit richness and power on the palate compliments the obviously top-class structure, meaning that this was drinking very well now but the potential is there to be unbelievable over time. Long, long, long finish. A wonderful wine.
95/100

1988 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Champagne

Pretty powerful on the nose with caramel, toast, earth, butterscotch and roast nuts. The palate is a contrast to the nose, being youthful and tightly coiled. Long and rich flavour. Probably in a slightly difficult stage between youth and maturity at the moment, it may look even better in a few years time.
91/100

1989 Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric-Émile Vendage Tardive Riesling

Honeyed nose with lychee, cookie dough, petrol and a touch of spice. Palate is very delicate, with subtle fruit sweetness upfront leading into a crisp, dry finish. Very good drinking now and should continue to drink well over the next 5+ years.
89/100

1955 Wynns Coonawarra Estate "Michael" Hermitage Claret

A legend and incredibly rare Australian wine, with only 2,300 litres having been bottled from a single exceptional barrel of Hermitage (Shiraz). This was the first release of this wine, named after the winemakers son, and there wasn't another "Michael" Shiraz until the 1990 vintage. Sourced from auction with sketchy provenance. Decanted gently for sediment and poured shortly after.

The colour was rather amazing for its age, mid-red with only a slight amount of bricking toward the rim. The nose at first was reclusive, but with some air and gentle swirling, some amazing aromas started to come forward. Smoked meat, cherries, raspberry and with time in the glass these aromas were constantly teasing and shifting with almost every sniff of the glass to tobacco, milk chocolate, earth, old leather, black tea leaves and cloves.

The palate had a charm and elegance of its own with a core of sweet fruit leading the way. Subtle texture and with the tannins completely resolved. Layered and complex, and unwilling to give away all its secrets unless you were willing to be patient, determined and understanding.

At times the aroma would subside and I thought that perhaps it was about to fall away, but then it somehow would suddenly find new and different life. More than three hours had passed quickly in the presence of this amazing wine, and it was still very much alive and standing proudly when I took my final sip.

A sincere thank you to Mark Stevens for this unbelievably generous gesture and the experience of drinking history.


1964 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Claret

According to the back label "there are two Coonawarra Estate vintage clarets, one from the Hermitage grape, the other from the rare Cabernet Sauvignon, each with its own characteristic".

Powerful nose, with a streak of VA through the middle as well as some violets, graphite, spearmint and barbeque sauce. The palate is resolved except for some tannins still showing through and the length was impressive, but it also looked rather simple and one dimensional. Having said that, it was showing quite well for its age and it still provided enjoyment and interest.
88/100

1982 Chateau Léoville-Las Cases (St.-Julien)

Incredibly youthful colour. Nose shows intense graphite, tobacco, blackberry, violets, redskins, briar and a bit of a green vegetable character that I haven't seen on the previous two glorious bottles of this. Great depth and structure to the palate with excellent length. Probably needed a little bit more time in the decanter to breath, but still a great wine with plenty of potential for the future.
93/100

1976 Penfolds Grange Hermitage

A concentrated deep, brooding colour belies the age of this wine. The nose just bursts out of the glass with intoxicating aromas of redcurrant, vanilla, violets, ginger, chocolate and coffee. Vibrant, youthful, sumptuous fruit on the palate is tempered by super fine tannin structure and glorious texture. Simply incredible length and balance. This is a truly legendary wine and is set to improve even more over the next 10+ years. Wow, after years of doubt, two stunning bottles of Grange in the past month have rendered me converted.
96/100

1970 Graham’s Vintage Port

Opened very volatile on the nose but with time revealed notes of coffee, cherry, kirsch, chocolate and violet. Extremely classy on the palate, with moderate sweetness and exceptional length. I was surprised at the lovely balance of this wine on the palate after the volatility and alcohol on the nose. Will last for decades.
94/100

1998 Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain Sélections de Grains Nobles

Copper gold in colour. I was giving this wine some funny looks and I told the table that this wine smelled of pencil shavings! After that, I was the one getting the funny looks, but I am still certain that was the dominant aroma! There were also some slightly more classic notes of botrytis, apricot, marmalade, vanilla and five spice. Powerful and concentrated flavours on the palate with intense weight and sweetness, a slight oiliness and a long finish. A lovely wine once I got over the nose!
94/100