Hi guys,
I haven't tried the 2005 Larose, but with all the talk about prices I thought the most recent installment of the column I write for the Independent Financial Review, published yesterday, might be a pertinent addition to the discussion.
Three recent release NZ reviews in here too.
Cheers,
Nick
Going under the hammer
A national record falls with nary a person in the room
Goodness gracious, I thought, the secondary wine market is healthy. With almost 200 people sitting cheek-by-jowl in Webb’s Manukau Rd auction rooms well before the 6.15pm deadline, any confidence I had that I might secure the odd bargain began ebbing away.
Then, using powers of deduction that have made me famous amongst my peers – many suggesting I’d have made a fine forensic investigator – I began to suspect something was amiss. For example, the image on the overhead projector in front of us all was not four bottles of Goldwater Estate Cabernet Merlot from the stupendously good 1998 vintage – catalogue price guide $50-65 plus the auctioneer’s 15% premium plus GST on the 15% – it was John Reynolds’ To Dream of Studying Geography, oil paint marker on acrylic on canvas, estimated price $5000-7000.
Idiot; the wine sale was about to start upstairs and I was sitting in the Modern & Contemporary Art auction. A quick sprint up those stairs and my confidence began to return. Yes, this was more like it, a near empty room, four bottles of Clarendon Hills 2002 Blewett Springs Old Vines Grenache open to try on a rather pleasant oak side table, circa 1910, and a tired looking auctioneer who looked like he might flog things off at any old price if it meant the evening didn’t wear on too long. Looks can be deceiving though; there were over 30 absentee bidders who’d lodged bids on many of the 408 lots, some of them probably downstairs buying the sort of gruesome post-modern tat that you’d need two bottles of rapidly consumed claret to begin appreciating.
So, here are some observations about the local secondary wine market and this, Webb’s April 2, 2007 sale of fine wines:
• If it weren’t for the iconic Waiheke red Stonyridge Larose there wouldn’t be many local wines making it onto the secondary market; of 114 lots, 47 of them were Larose.
• You’d be a mug to buy Larose on release; buy it at auction. It costs well north of $100 a bottle on release and Stonyridge’s own list of 13 vintages of library stock for sale ranges from $150 for the 1991 to $260 for the 1994. The hammer price for a bottle of the 1994 last Monday was $65, with the range across the 47 lots being $55 to $95 a bottle (before buyer’s premium).
• Webb’s head of wine, Simon Mickelson, says it was always assumed that lodge owners and restrateurs would be big buyers at auction, but over the years they’ve barely ever participated.
• So, the buyers are all private, and with eight of the dozen or so in the room at any one time on the night being Chinese, now we know where all that $1000-a-bottle Petrus, Lafleur and Margaux is going.
• But, contrary to what you might be thinking, these Asian buyers are not speculators. Simon says they’re passionate enthusiasts, often of limited knowledge about wine but with a thirst to learn. They drink the wines they buy, which pleases him very much, because they then return and stock up on more.
• The record for the most expensive bottle of wine ever sold in New Zealand was broken at this auction, the details of which my wife will be reading about for the first time today; just kidding darling! However, lot 345, a six-litre imperial of Chateau Latour 1990 went under the hammer to a private buyer for $14,050.
• In case you hadn’t noticed, and certainly I hadn’t noticed it to the degree that clearly exists, there are some astonishingly wealthy people in this country. Mickelson says it’s not unusual for a bidder to drop between $40,000 and $75,000 on wine at a single auction and be back with similar vigor the following month.
• Finally, as head of wine for Webb’s Mr Mickelson gets to drink many of these marquee bottles with both the vendors and buyers. No wonder the lucky bugger looked shagged.
REVIEWS
Feature wine: Villa Maria Gateway Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2006
New Zealand is a tiny place, story #17,604: At a recent birthday party I met a very pleasant woman who told me her parents grew sauvignon blanc for Villa Maria. “In Marlborough?†I asked. “Yes,†she replied. “Is it the Gateway Vineyard?†I asked. You know where this is going. It was; she immediately assumed I was a stalker, I assured her I wasn’t but I’d drunk the wine the night before and taken a lucky punt. Then, to make things spookier, I turned around and was introduced to Alastair Mailing, Villa Maria’s head winemaker. We’d never met, and he’d never met the daughter of the retired couple who provide him with such great sauvignon blanc. Anyway, to the wine, which just might be the best sauvignon blanc to pass my lips. This hugely pungent, intense Wairau Valley wine bursts with tropical fruit and gooseberry on the nose and delivers a core of gooseberry and ripe stone fruit that just won’t quit. As with anything good, balance is the key. In this case, great fruit intensity that would be cloying were it not matched by such structure. $27-30
www.villamaria.co.nz
For the table: Chard Farm ‘The Viper’ Pinot Noir 2005
The ground upon which the grapes for this wine grow was once covered in vipers bugloss flowers, otherwise known as blue borage. Not only do these flowers make the most delicious honey, I swear there’s a scent of them in this wine too. The colour is brilliant dark ruby with hints of purple; an intense note of ripe plum skin and cherries on the nose is followed by an equal measure of sweet vanillan oak, all of which is framed by scents of wild-thyme and borage. The balance is impeccable, with a slightly chewy and astringent entry setting up an intoxicating cascade of ripe fruits which leave a smoky perfumed sense in the mouth that’s a bit like Turkish delight and lasts for a good 20 seconds. This will cellar well in the short-to-medium term, but it’ll be hard to keep your hands off it. $45 from
www.chardfarm.co.nz
For the cellar: Murdoch James Blue Rock Pinot Gris 2006
Great news: a serious new pinot gris from Martinborough. This is Murdoch James’s first release of Blue Rock Pinot Gris following two trial vintages. The colour is flinty silver with a glimmer of gold; its spicy, heady and intense pear-laden nose has a hint of ginger and peach that suggests a fat, off-dry palate to come. What you get is rather different, with a surprisingly taught, steely/mineral backbone framing a lush but lip-smackingly crisp palate of musky pear and ginger-laced fruit that finishes long with hints of sweetness. Drink now thru 2010; $29 from
www.murdochjames.co.nz