The Auswine Forum

Probably about 2 weeks until these wines are released. I believe little ol me is the first to publish reviews for these wines. They are outstanding, and the day this winery becomes a super cult is dawning. More reviews and details on my website. I have tasted all but one vintage of these wines and the prgression of quality year on year is astonishing.

2005 Puriri Hills Merlot Cabernet Franc Malbec. An amazingly complex nose with red currants, fruitcake and fresh spearmint undertones. Palate is yet again another step up from earlier vintages. Extremely stylish, nice level of fruit density which adds perhaps something missing from older vintages. This gives it gorgeous weight without being heavy. No issues with value for money with this wine. Super complexity, drinking well now. It really delivers and competes. 98/109 points $$ Approx $35

2005 Puriri Hills Reserve Merlot Cabernet Franc Malbec. At this level I really start to look to compare to some of NZ’s greatest ever Bordeaux style reds. We have reached yet another level of astonishing quality. Very dark ruby in the glass. The nose is quite restrained but does give up the sought after red currant and fruitcake notes. The palate is sensational with added power on the palate and super complexity. Blackberry and red currant palate, with underlying layers of mint at just the faintest volume, gives this jaw dropping quality. The texture is all velvet and the structure so finely boned and controlled. This wine is sensual and intellectual, extremely refined and graceful. Worth every cent. This wine will cellar for a decade or more but is so interesting now, it will be hard to resist. 103/109 points. $$ Approx $55

2005 Puriri Hills “Pope” Merlot Cabernet Franc. A wine styled on the great Cheval Blanc of Bordeaux, and was clearly a wine full of emotion for Judy. To compare the quality of this wine we have to look towards the great wines of St Emilion and Pomerol. This wine would compete to win without blushing in the highest arenas. Dark ruby red in colour. Compact and haunting aromas of super quality dark Swiss chocolate, Christmas cake, bran and dark fruits – very deep set aromas. The palate displays pristine and deep fresh blackberry and black plum underpinned by almost invisible coating tannins. It is slightly more backward, and slightly darker than the reserve. Again the palate shows an extra touch of weight but never is the wine forced or over extracted. The fruit is allowed to speak here, the structure is very finely boned, elegant, gentle fresh (perfect ripeness) and long. This is benchmark red wine of the absolute highest quality. This wine will not be cheap, but be assured it delivers at its price tag. I would expect this wine, if looked after, to age gracefully for more than a decade. Perhaps let it sleep for a year, but after that it will also be hard to resist young. Special occasion ‘claret’. Immaculate. 106/109 points. Small production. $$Approx $110

Evert Nijzink makes these wines, doesn't he?
What was the occasion for the tasting?

Cheers,
Sue

PS Why doesn't Puriri Hills feature on your website's vote for NZs greatest Merlot + Merlot Blends?

Great note Craig, can you keep us posted when it is released?? cheers.

Sue

I visited the cellar door for the first time last weekend, simply after seeing a sign out in clevedon, when we were on the way to the farmers market which is out there. Tried the 06 Rose, 00,01,02,03 estate and 02 reserve. The progression of quality was evident

Got invited back to try the 04 and 05 wines which is another quality jump each. I dont think they had decided when to release them. Im pretty sure Judy has now decided to release in about 2 weeks - that was her last comment to me, though not sure its set in stone.

Evert Nijzink made the 05 (and 04??) vintage. Surely these wines (even though different style) are at least as good as his best aviators eg 00, id suggest better. The 05 reserve is a match for any kiwi bordeaux red. Pope needs a little time - very coiled sorta like 98 coleraine/ 00 cheval was on release, very compact

Tony Pritchard ex Church Road/ 'Tom' winemaker is now making the wines though he is totally on board with Evert's direction and in fact Evert still 'helps out' as a friend.

The 06 vintage had a few difficulties but Judy says the wines are excellent. Didnt try any from barrel.

PPS. Forgot to say, Craig, very evocative notes. Love the scoring system too. Especially love one on your website with three decimal places.
Cheers,
Sue

judy loved the /109 system!!

Craig(NZ) wrote:Sue

Evert Nijzink made the 05 (and 04??) vintage. Surely these wines (even though different style) are at least as good as his best aviators eg 00, id suggest better. The 05 reserve is a match for any kiwi bordeaux red. Pope needs a little time - very coiled sorta like 98 coleraine/ 00 cheval was on release, very compact

Tony Pritchard ex Church Road/ 'Tom' winemaker is now making the wines though he is totally on board with Evert's direction and in fact Evert still 'helps out' as a friend.

The 06 vintage had a few difficulties but Judy says the wines are excellent. Didnt try any from barrel.

Have just spent the day on Waiheke and quite a number of winemakers said that 2005 was their best vintage ever for their Bordeaux styled reds, better than 2006 - with no rain from mid Jan thru to mid April with the fruit maturing perfectly. Clevedon is meant to be very similar to Waiheke.

Tony Pritchard is a very good winemaker. So is Evert.

Cheers,
Sue

what were your picks for 05 waiheke??

clevedon can get quite wet but sloping vineyard helps.

yes 06 ended quite wet

Yes clearly 05 is delivering the goods. Judy described Pope as being a wine that will be released only about once a decade. The reserve looks like it will be released maybe once every 2 years.

Craig(NZ) wrote:what were your picks for 05 waiheke??

Well, you know what I think about certain Syrahs from Waiheke from 2005 (i.e. Passage Rock), but also interesting to taste Peninsula Estate Zeno Syrah 2005, made by none other than Passage Rock winemaker, David Evans. The best I've tasted from Peninsula Estate.

Obsidian Weeping Sands 2005 ($25) is pretty good and drinking better than the flagship Obsidian 2004 ($45), IMO, although Obsidian is made to last and Weeping Sands is more of a drink now style. It has five varieties, including Petit Verdot - possibly this is what gives it so much complexity.

Really loved the Awaroa Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($35). Vivid purple, lovely use of oak, beautifully balanced, long full rich finish, ripe fruit and fine tannins. But just about died when I saw 15% alcohol on the label.

Man O'War Ironclad Merlot Cabernet 2005 ($45) was interesting. Slightly salty, rosemary character to start but softens out with fine grained tannins and polished French oak. Not overly robust but well structured and complete.

The most gorgeous wine, though, was Pilgrim Syrah Mourvedre Grenache 2005 made by Martin MacKenzie at Stonyridge. A voluptuous creamy wine with fruit sweetness, spice, savoury oak and an earthy meaty character, which probably comes from the Mourvedre. $120 at cellar door and only 450 bottles made.

Also tried a barrel sample of Passage Rock Syrah 06 from a blend of vineyards (not the reserve). Quite different to the 2005 - not so vivid purple in colour and not so massively extracted - more aromatics and florals to the rich berry aromas, gorgeous spicy profile, rose petals, tar, aromatic spices, lifted finish. Not a lesser wine than the 2005 by any means. Just different.

Cheers,
Sue

PS Why doesn't Puriri Hills feature on your website's vote for NZs greatest Merlot + Merlot Blends?

Id hardly even heard of puriri hills when i put that vote up!!

trying to think of a few more left field things to 'vote' on - hasnt captured the imagination of the punters!!

Wow Is all I had to say .. if anything Craigs notes were a bit conservative this is a fantastic series of wineswell worth the effort of the drive to the winery. Shame I ran out of money and couldn't buy any more.

Judy has a real winner on her hands with both the Puriri Hills 2005 Reserve and Pope.

Are these Puriri Hills coming to Oz? I'd sure like to run them past Blacktongues.

Bacchus, im surprised your lovely wife lets you sleep in the same bed after your wallet emptying!!

707. They deliver direct to Australia. If gavin doesnt stock it this would be an option. Wait for the new releases (esp. 05) is my advice.

http://www.puririhills.co.nz/delivery.htm

Dear Craig(NZ) as you know it is easier to gain forgiveness than permission

it is easier to gain forgiveness than permission

Truely these are words to live by. they are yet to fail me

Craig,
Got to taste the Puriri Hills wines on Sunday afternoon, courtesy of a friend who had the bottles. Six wines tasted blind - three Puriri Hills (05 Pope, 05 Res, 04 Res) plus three HB reds. All wines would be rated gold medal quality.

I rated the 04 Reserve top, the Pope second.
My friend, who brought the wines along, rated Pope first, 05 Res 2nd and 04 Res 3rd.
The other two tasters rated Pope second but gave top vote to a Hawkes Bay wine. But with one first and three seconds, the Pope was awarded top wine of tasting.

My friend took the wines home and tasted again in decent glasses, with food and came to the same conclusion as you about the Pope. He said in his email to me on Monday night, " .... drinking the Pope as I write is totally doing in my head. In terms of potential, have I have tasted better from this land?"

I would hate to see you two together - you would be trying to outdo each other with superlatives for this wine.

But also heard that I am not alone in my top rating of the 04 Reserve. Maybe it is the best drinking at the moment. Ask Judy.

Cheers,
Sue

Sue

The 04 Reserve I found a different beast, almost more left bank in style? Still excellent wine. I prefered the 05 reserve personally just stylistically i found it a bit more elegant and a little more mid palate richness.

The 05 Reserve ive tried several times since, once against 05 Coleraine blind. I found them both the same quality. Certainly a big achievement for a south auckland winery no one has heard of!!

They are the real deal, I have always said that and have never waivered. every time i have tried them they have talked to me the same language. exceptionally classy. I love the 05 reserve and worth every cent. The Pope isnt quite the same value for money but it is stunning quality. In five years time when it starts to develop it will be a legend

Any serious drinker of nz bdx styles (or bdx in general) should seek them out before they become impossible to find. I have certainly blown my wine budget this year because of this winery!

Three hundred-pointers certainly sounds impressive. Actually, three 100+ pointers. Impressive. This would cause a stir on eBob. Better not mention it there...
cheers,
Graeme

Hey Craig,

Are they open to the public in the weekends ?

Cheers,
Curt.

Curt. Cellar Door open only in the summer. september onward from memory.

In auckland finewinedeliverycompany has a handdful of the 05s.

Buy then try may be better than wait and miss out!

Sue

What were the 3 Hawkes Bay reds you had blind with the puriri trio??

Craig(NZ) wrote:Sue
What were the 3 Hawkes Bay reds you had blind with the puriri trio??

Hatton Estate Tahi 2004
Hatton Estate Tahi 2005
Mills Reef Elspeth Cab Franc 2005

Mills Reef came second overall in our tasting.
The Hatton Estates performed much better the second night. They needed the benefit of decanting.

I notice on your website that you say the PH wines had been heavily decanted. I wish we had done this. Even though the wines had been poured into jugs for pouring at the table, that process happened just before the wines were poured into our glasses.

Sue

Yes Judy heavily decanted all the wines when i first tried them

The second time i tried the 05 reserve it was straight out of a freshly opened bottle at the CD. It wasnt as good until the last splash in the bottom of the glass which had been swirled to mars and back

I tried a sample from fwdc from a bottle open for 2 days. it was stunning

Our mid winter red tasting i decanted it and it was stunning blind against the also stunning 05 coleraine. Also mid winter they are helped with the chill taken off them in front of a fire or in warm water (as with many)

Although the mills reef performed well for you i wonder how they would have compared after the 2nd or 3rd glass??? i know where the subtlety points would have gone!??? though i havent tried the 05 MR wines yet, so might be speaking out of school, but generally i find althoug MR elspeth range impresses me, im never 'seduced' by them!

sue

from a friend in sydney...

05 puriri hills reserve 97/100 gourmet wine traveller (no surprise. if the res got 97 what would pope get?????)

05 coleraine 88/100 (whose smoking what where)????

Craig(NZ) wrote:sue

from a friend in sydney...

05 puriri hills reserve 97/100 gourmet wine traveller (no surprise. if the res got 97 what would pope get?????)

05 coleraine 88/100 (whose smoking what where)????

Craig (and Sue and others),

I was at Puriri Hills this morning. Can confirm that Bob Campbell gave a 95 (not 97) to the '05 Puriri Hills Res in GWT (according to cellar door staff). The Puriri Hills Res and Te Mata Coleraine from the 2005 vintage are very different wines - very. The Coleraine, IMO, is a far better wine now and especially in the future. I don't share the said hyperbole for the Puriri Hills wines.

I may have been prejudiced based on a preliminary chat with the vineyard manager, but I'll elaborate on that after quick impressions on the wines. I found green characters - esp overt capsicum - in the '04 Puriri Hills (not the reserve). The '05 and '05 Reserve certainly had better bouquets with more fruit character. There is no doubt that all the wines tasted (the three as mentioned), across the board, have a textural quality that is almost oily; a silky, velvet mouthfeel. The tannins are also controlled, very fine and well proportioned to the more feminine style, though I'd argue that they could be too light-on for such young wines. In any case, said traits are all boons for the wines.

However, there were a couple of fundamental flaws. All wines were heavily orientated to a front palate flavour profile with the mid-back palate hollow and empty. I feel quite strongly about this and it was an underlying theme in all the wines. The '05 Reserve was too heavy on the oak. All wines tasted high in pH and I really wonder how they will age. All in all, these misforgivings are countered by the relative qualities of the standard '05 wine in terms of QPR, but certainly not the standard '04 or '05 Reserve IMO.

I was meeted (admittedly with a group of friends/colleagues) by the vineyard manager (whose name escapes me, though she was apparently a vineyard manager for Vidals) late this morning. It was drizzling in Clevedon as we turned in and up the driveway to the Puriri Hills vineyard and winery. Now, the first thing that struck me was the site. Despite the benefit of a slope planting, the vines were planted on heavy, fertile soils in an extremely wet district to a relatively close spacing of Bordeaux varietals. Apparently 270mm of rain fell in two weeks during vintage 2006.

In any case, the wines had received great recognition from the likes of KWFC and WotW, so I was intrigued nonetheless. We proceeded into viticulture discussion with the vineyard manager and it soon became apparent that she had no idea what was going on (ignorant, inaccurate and nervous at best).

The site is EXTREMELY labour intensive - excessively so - with no apparent programs to encourage vine balance. Topping occurs at least four times each season, everything is done by hand (which I have no issue with), fruit set with the recent use of "Merlot Magic" (a Molybdenum based nutrition spray) encourages greater fruit set (apparently bunches in excess of 1kg come harvest...), shoots are thinned back to one bunch and the fruit zone is stripped of leaves around veraison.

This information was of interest and the vineyard manager lady struggled to gain any credibility as she continued to contradict herself. On acknowledging that the tephra, clay soils were fertile (and not very free draining), discussion of vigour management practices occurred with the lady concluding her point with a comment on short internode length conduicive to a high shoot density come pruning. She was not familiar with the terms girdling or soluble solids and bandied microclimate terminology with no grasp of its concept. The suggestion of discontinuing Merlot Magic to encourage less fruit set and thus more open bunches (and perhaps a reduced requirement for fruit thinning) was met with shrugged shoulders.

I could go on, but I won't. It all wreaked off unprofessional, poor grape-growing and did not present a positive vibe for the wines. Nonetheless, I tried to be as humanly objective as possible and feel that I reviewed the wines in such a capacity. I guess one takes away the fact that perhaps with more management/attention in the vineyard and better fruit, there really could be something special created by an obviously talented winemaker. For now, I'll finish by raising two eyebrows at a Cheval Blanc comparison...

Cheers,

I was at Puriri Hills this morning. Can confirm that Bob Campbell gave a 95 (not 97) to the '05 Puriri Hills Res in GWT (according to cellar door staff).

I can confirm it is 97/100 from the magazine in my hand. The estate got 91/100. BC also apperently loved Pope though it was decided not to enter it into GT tasting. Anyway, anyone that doesnt score out of 109 isnt worth listening to in my opinion

The 05 coleraine got 88/100 and (to me) deserves the same as the 05 puriri res. the 05 coleraine is a wonderful wine and cant see why campbell didnt seem to like it (mind you i cant see why you dont like the puriri either but hey hehe). I have tried the puriri and coleraine side by side blind with 16 people. Although total group scores saw the coleraine slightly ahead, a number of die hard wino's scored the puriri higher

I certainly agree with some of your comments outside the actual wine. The site does seem very marginal (and lush), and as with all auckland it gets its fair share of rain. Both the 06 and 07 vintages have had their problems. Judy says despite the problems they have made very good wine from 2006. Time will tell. I can see how the 05s may be the best they ever make. I really hope not, but I could see how that could end up the case.

For me, and unlike you being in the industry, the technical detail of vine to bottle is of interest, but of no consequence to me. I judge it from table to stomach only. If they crushed the grapes using the backside of a sheep, i wouldnt care als long as it tasted great (barnyard anyone??? )

One aside I will make is they all come to life with a little temperature as noted on my site (and above). If you tasted them straight ambient in cold CD id suggest they would show better bottles dropped in a sink of warm water for 5 minutes (a trick i use for all reds in winter). Your comment on high PH I noted in earlier vintages. However 02/04/05 seemed better. It suggests serving temp was an issue. I have found acid when the wines are cold. (This aint just a puriri thing same with the esk i had last nite).

Also, were they decanted?? The only time i got an average reading on the 05 reserve was straight out of a just popped bottle that was cold. The other half dozen times ive tried it it has been outstanding. I did talk to the CD guy there about improving the pour presentation along these lines but didnt get far.

However in the end wine is wine and palates are palates and everyone is entitled to their opinion - open some debate. I really believe though Max, even though a direct comparison to cheval may be a little over the top, that you will be in the minority camp on this one!!

Lastly, you shoulda dropped round for a drink! Im only 15/20 minutes drive from puriri

Maximus wrote:In any case, the wines had received great recognition from the likes of KWFC and WotW, so I was intrigued nonetheless.

WotW!!!! Are you referring to my website, Max. FWIW I've hardly written anything about these wines except in this thread and a mention on my website at this link, where I said the 2004 Reserve was my favourite at a tasting of the wines we did. I do, however, link to Craig's review, mention Bob Campbell's and Michael Cooper's ratings, and give the opinions of a friend who tasted the wines again, with food, the following day and echoes what Craig said about the Pope as it being one of the greatest wines he has ever tasted from NZ.
I hope to taste the wines again, decanted, and with food, in September. I haven't tasted the non reserves but I imagine in the true tradition of cabernets from this part of the country going into a secondary label, they will have a bit of the green signature of the grape.

So how long are you in Akl for?
Cheers,
Sue

I hope to taste the wines again, decanted, and with food, in September.

need any company sue???