TN: 3 Grower Champagnes
Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 1:06 pm
Since going on my bubbly binge during the recent MLB playoffs and World Series, I’ve continued to investigate the varieties of the sparkling wine experience, and hooking up with a Champagne geek like Brad Baker has been most enlightening; the man has displayed a wealth of knowledge, and I’m lovin' it, trying new sparklers three or four times a week. Brad and his wife Michele dropped in for dinner and drinks not long ago, and what better drinks could we have than Champagnes from three artisanal grower-producers? (Readers may also be interested in comparing the following notes with Brad's take of these selections.)
Pierre Moncuit Le Mesnil Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NVPierre Moncuit Cuvee Pierre Moncuit-Delos Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, 12% alc., disgorged 09/05.: Pale gold in color, with all the trimmings (good mousse, fine active bead); big toasty, yeasty bread dough and yellow apple flavors and aromas. Medium full body, rich and delicious, with excellent zip and intensity; made entirely from Chardonnay, sells for around $30. This estate is situated in Mesnil-sur-Oger, with about 25 hectares of vineyards planted exclusively to Chardonnay, all wines being produced from a single vintage, even those labeled non-vintage. Yves Moncuit takes care of business, while Nicole Moncuit tends the vines and makes the wines.
Imported by AHD Vintners, Ltd., Warren, MI
Jean Laurent Brut Rosé NV, $46.99, 12% alc., disgorged in either August or September of 2005: Salmon/strawberry pink color, with strawberry, watermelon and cherry flavors and aromas; not really toasty, not really yeasty; Brad calls it meaty, adding that it’s not feminine, but rather masculine. Really shows its 100% Pinot Noir makeup more and more with air, and a certain creamy quality emerges as well, along with a note of smoke. The clear favorite of the three tasted here; even Kim, who is no bubble-head, likes it. Aged a minimum of five years on yeast. According to the Hand Picked Selections website, Jean Laurent’s family has been growing Champagne in the village of Celles sur Ource, located in the Aube region, for over 1,000 years; Laurent limits yields to below authorized maximums and uses a minimum of herbicides and pesticides, thanks to repeated plowing, hand care and organic fertilization. We’ve already made our admiration for his wines known, and this one only strengthens that respect.
Imported by Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA
Alfred Gratien Brut Cuvée Paridis NV, 12% alc.: Golden color, with bull mousse, medium active bead and Don Ho (tiny) bubbles; somewhat oxidized, but in a good way, and obviously an older bottle, with a rich nutty, sherried character than doesn’t show a lot of fruit. Brad added impressions of “baking spice and a creamy nutty finish.†This opens nicely with air, becoming more and more enjoyable, but still finished third among these three in my opinion, despite Brad’s observation that it’s “very old school, just the way Krug does it.†Champagne Alfred Gratien is located in Epernay, and Cuvée Paridis is produced from approximately 75% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, and 10% Pinot Meunier; we were unable to deduce a date for disgorgement of this bottle. $75-100 is simply too much money to pay for what we found in the bottle on this occasion.
Imported by New Castle Imports, Inc., Myrtle Beach, SC
-From More Drawing of the Threes
Reporting from Day-twah,
geo t.
Pierre Moncuit Le Mesnil Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NVPierre Moncuit Cuvee Pierre Moncuit-Delos Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, 12% alc., disgorged 09/05.: Pale gold in color, with all the trimmings (good mousse, fine active bead); big toasty, yeasty bread dough and yellow apple flavors and aromas. Medium full body, rich and delicious, with excellent zip and intensity; made entirely from Chardonnay, sells for around $30. This estate is situated in Mesnil-sur-Oger, with about 25 hectares of vineyards planted exclusively to Chardonnay, all wines being produced from a single vintage, even those labeled non-vintage. Yves Moncuit takes care of business, while Nicole Moncuit tends the vines and makes the wines.
Imported by AHD Vintners, Ltd., Warren, MI
Jean Laurent Brut Rosé NV, $46.99, 12% alc., disgorged in either August or September of 2005: Salmon/strawberry pink color, with strawberry, watermelon and cherry flavors and aromas; not really toasty, not really yeasty; Brad calls it meaty, adding that it’s not feminine, but rather masculine. Really shows its 100% Pinot Noir makeup more and more with air, and a certain creamy quality emerges as well, along with a note of smoke. The clear favorite of the three tasted here; even Kim, who is no bubble-head, likes it. Aged a minimum of five years on yeast. According to the Hand Picked Selections website, Jean Laurent’s family has been growing Champagne in the village of Celles sur Ource, located in the Aube region, for over 1,000 years; Laurent limits yields to below authorized maximums and uses a minimum of herbicides and pesticides, thanks to repeated plowing, hand care and organic fertilization. We’ve already made our admiration for his wines known, and this one only strengthens that respect.
Imported by Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA
Alfred Gratien Brut Cuvée Paridis NV, 12% alc.: Golden color, with bull mousse, medium active bead and Don Ho (tiny) bubbles; somewhat oxidized, but in a good way, and obviously an older bottle, with a rich nutty, sherried character than doesn’t show a lot of fruit. Brad added impressions of “baking spice and a creamy nutty finish.†This opens nicely with air, becoming more and more enjoyable, but still finished third among these three in my opinion, despite Brad’s observation that it’s “very old school, just the way Krug does it.†Champagne Alfred Gratien is located in Epernay, and Cuvée Paridis is produced from approximately 75% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, and 10% Pinot Meunier; we were unable to deduce a date for disgorgement of this bottle. $75-100 is simply too much money to pay for what we found in the bottle on this occasion.
Imported by New Castle Imports, Inc., Myrtle Beach, SC
-From More Drawing of the Threes
Reporting from Day-twah,
geo t.