63 Peppermint Patty, 5 Granges, Krug, Latour, ChevalB + more
Posted: Mon Jun 19, 2006 10:57 am
A dinner to celebrate the inaugural meeting of the SLDS (Sydney Label Drinkers Society) at the abode of Mark AS and wife Ingrid. This event commemorates the birth years (and years of conception) of our honourable founding members. Long live the labelistes!
1979 Krug Champagne
Mid gold. Slight mousse only. Not much of a pop! Beautiful rich and dense nose of honey botrytis, roasted almonds, toast and aldehydes. Palate is highlighted by great power and excellent length. Very acidic though with a deeply chalky finish and perhaps lacking finesse. Power without style. Not as good as the one shared with the Napoleon and DLo in Canberra but fresher than the 2nd bottle a couple of months ago. A lot of variation now despite identical cellaring conditions. Drink up!
91 /100
1984 Seppelt Eden Valley Maturation Release Riesling
Re-released circa 2000. Another Aussie legend. Light gold. Bouquet of beeswax, honeycomb, passionfruit, butter and toast – very complex. Palate however is a letdown: flabby, a bit thin and with acid-a-go-go! Not much on front and mid palate. Still drinkable but this is the 2nd bottle had in last 6 months and is on the decline.
84/100
1981 Trimbach Clos-Ste.-Hune Riesling
Light gold. Gorgeous nose that is so refined with plenty of finesse, focussed, steely, waxy, with dry acacia flowers. Palate is medium bodies. First impression was that it was short, but with time filled out. Strong front and mid palate. Lovely length. Superior structure that just got better and better. Lovely wine. My sort of riesling! But too expensive now, alas!
92 / 100
1963 Mildara “Peppermint Patty†Coonawarra Vintage Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Mid shoulder level. Mid red with clear bricking at rim. Bouquet opens with a touch of acetone, then ripe blackcurrants, leather, smoky herbs, and eucalypt. Amazing! Palate has lovely length and structure, with still sweet plums finishing off with a silky texture, super fine integrated tannins. Perhaps the most beautifully balanced and harmonious Aussie wine I have ever had. Just short of near perfection by some obtrusive acid poking out at end. A feminine wine, showing no signs of decline in the 50 minutes had it in my glass. This is why we cellar wine. Shared with a great bunch of people, it was a special occasion. Made the 70 Latour and Granges that followed seem clumsy and angular and awkward and one-dimensional! Truly great wine. Thanks to Napoleon for sourcing this!
96 / 100
1970 Chateau Latour
Deep red. Hints of brown. Astonishing colour really! Nose is deep with rich roasted nuts, blackfruits, vegetable garden. Quite awesome and unevolved. Palate is dry and earthy, brutish, almost aggressive in its power, with amazing tannins. Very masculine against the 63 Peppermint Patty with shorter finish. The best bottles are among the best ever wines I have ever had. This one wasn’t up to par, or perhaps suffered from coming after the sheer delight that was the Patty.
93 / 100
Then on to a bracket of 1979’s:
1979 Chateau Cheval Blanc
Light to medium red. Nose is a bit simple, showing some overt oak. Not a lot of fruit on palate and a bit past it IMO. Good, drinkable but the least of the 3 1979s. Never showed well from start. Tired.
83/100
1979 Chateau Margaux
Mid red. Deepest colour of 3. Quite rich nose and most youthful with moss, cherries and a high tone. Palate was initially mute and tannic, with abundant seaweed characters that nearly everyone picked up! Full palate with good length. Nicely balanced. Lacks weight to be great but got better and better.
89 / 100
24 hours later: much fuller and holding up well. Less tannic and lovely easy drinking. More Margaux-like!
90 / 100
1979 Chateau Trotanoy
Mid red. Slightly lighter than the Margaux. Lush and exotic nose from one of my favourite chateau’s. Some AV heat evident. Lush palate with very dry tannins, obfuscating the wine’s balance. A tough wine that fell apart after 30 minutes.
86 / 100
Blend of 1979 Cheval Blanc, LMHB and Trotanoy!
60% Cheval, 20% LMHB and 20% Trotanoy. Yes, I did it and guess what, it was the pretty schmick! Lovely integrated nose showing richness of Margaux with nice fruit. Palate was interesting, with tannins less noticeable than above wines, but lacking the definition of the Margaux.
87 / 100
Then a bracket of 1981’s:
1981 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion
Dark red. Hint of brown. Nose is classic Bordeaux – graphite, cedar, rich blackfruits and earth. Palate very, very dry (akin to the 1985 LMHB we had at Tetsuya’s recently) and lacking fruit richness. Product of vintage. Simple and one dimensional. Not up to scratch or its reputation. Far too tannic.
85 / 100
1981 Chateau Haut-Brion
Lighter red than LMHB. Bouquet is like dipping your noggin in a vegemite jar, with tar, stewed veges and cooked fruit. Palate is short, tannic, yeasty and OTH. Very disappointing. Had a brilliant bottle about 15 months ago that we all thought was Grand cru burgundy such was its sweet, beguiling floral bouquet!
NR
1981 Tyrrell’s Vat 5 Shiraz (Hunter Valley)
Light red with brown meniscus. Nose of sweet spices and plum-like fruit. Far superior to the two Bordeaux’s but still not a lot of complexity. Palate is very good and held up well in glass. Nice and soft with elegant remnants of fruit. Good balance. A nice old wine that lacks development.
88 / 100
Then on to a series of five good to very good vintages of Grange (granted no great vintages). Usual crumbling corks. In summary, very disappointing: just too clumsy, big and lacking charm.
1977 Penfolds Grange Hermitage (sic)
Red, and quite murky. Nose initially was a bit mute but opened up with green capsicum, some coffee tones. Palate is very good, with very good length but has a slightly bitter finish from dusty tannins. Good texture. Very full and rich. My favourite of the Grange lot (compared all 5 bouquet-by-bouquet and palate-by-palate and always came back to this one for the length and balance. All the others were gibbering about the World Cup! 24 hours later: no signs of decline but hadn’t changed at all! The same wine.
88 / 100
1979 Penfolds Grange Hermitage (sic)
Mid red. Better clarity here. More acetone and oak evident here. Simple dark chocolate. Almost feral and touch gritty compared to others. Hints of nail varnish. Complex, but not in a good way. Palate remains very rich and dense. Length, whilst good, not up to 1977. more tannic and oakier too. A monolithic wine that screamed where the 1977 whispered.
87 / 100
1980 Penfolds Grange Hermitage (sic)
Mid red. Similar in colour to 1979. Deep and powerful nose but not showing the development of the 1979. AV lift more obvious too. Most “porty†of the set. Palate doesn’t have a lot of tannin, making the wine finish a touch dilute. Bit short. More red fruits (raspberry) spectrum than blackfruits of 1977 and 1979. Just not up to those two tonight, despite a truly great bottle had about 9 months ago which rated 94/100 9from my cellar).
85 / 100
1981 Penfolds Grange Hermitage (sic)
Mid red with some obvious browning. Very forward style with good fruit but weakest nose of the 5 given massive vanilla oak. Palate is very elegant and plush. Lacking in mid palate. Finishes very tannic but not as much as the 1977 or 1979. Very good but lacks weight and concentration.
86 / 100
1984 Penfolds Grange Hermitage (sic)
Less red than previous 4 vintages. More mute on the nose too. Then gentle blackfruits and liquorice galore! Palate is deeper than the 81 and better with good length. Very full bodied. Too much obvious oak however in this vintage. All angles – will it ever integrate? Who knows…
84 / 100
After this, the gang was getting a little restless and we probably should have stopped here. Napoleon was turbo-charging his way into “trash modeâ€Â, others were wandering about Mark’s house like lost souls from a Dostoevsky novel, and there were about 5 or 6 separate conversation going on and no one was really taking notice of what followed. Except me…coz they were my wines too!
1979 Chateau Musar
13.7%. Double decanted for 2 hours. Light to medium red. Clear bricking. Typical Musar nose of ham, salami, meats, acetone, VA, za’taar spices. Surprisingly very elegant palate, with lovely balance and length. Good concentration. Finishes with strong acidity. Excellent length. Very good wine. Will try remains tonight.
88 / 100
1977 Moulin Touchais
Recorked and re-released in 2005. 13.5%. Mid gold. Lovely clarity. Nose of apricot brandy, sulphur and peachy sweets. Palate has lots of obvious acid and good length. Pretty good overall considering weak vintage but mid sweet rather than luscious like sauternes. Not too cloying. Bit short. In an awkward state: not sure if it wants to remain primary or has developed prematurely. Rather like an oxidative young dessert wine.
86 / 100
1968 Hardy’s Vintage Port (sic)
Mid red. Slight bricking. Very nutty nose and lovely chocolatey sweetness. Touch of AV. Palate is pretty good with good length and ripeness. Tannins fully integrated so it finishes quite soft. Some alcohol heat detracts. Drinking very well. 24 hours later: no change!
87 / 100
At this point I was ready to opne a few more but as usual the rest were all weary!
Massive thanks to Mark and Ingrid for hosting at their home. Mark, great job in the kitchen too! Lucy is so lovely! A top night.
1979 Krug Champagne
Mid gold. Slight mousse only. Not much of a pop! Beautiful rich and dense nose of honey botrytis, roasted almonds, toast and aldehydes. Palate is highlighted by great power and excellent length. Very acidic though with a deeply chalky finish and perhaps lacking finesse. Power without style. Not as good as the one shared with the Napoleon and DLo in Canberra but fresher than the 2nd bottle a couple of months ago. A lot of variation now despite identical cellaring conditions. Drink up!
91 /100
1984 Seppelt Eden Valley Maturation Release Riesling
Re-released circa 2000. Another Aussie legend. Light gold. Bouquet of beeswax, honeycomb, passionfruit, butter and toast – very complex. Palate however is a letdown: flabby, a bit thin and with acid-a-go-go! Not much on front and mid palate. Still drinkable but this is the 2nd bottle had in last 6 months and is on the decline.
84/100
1981 Trimbach Clos-Ste.-Hune Riesling
Light gold. Gorgeous nose that is so refined with plenty of finesse, focussed, steely, waxy, with dry acacia flowers. Palate is medium bodies. First impression was that it was short, but with time filled out. Strong front and mid palate. Lovely length. Superior structure that just got better and better. Lovely wine. My sort of riesling! But too expensive now, alas!
92 / 100
1963 Mildara “Peppermint Patty†Coonawarra Vintage Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Mid shoulder level. Mid red with clear bricking at rim. Bouquet opens with a touch of acetone, then ripe blackcurrants, leather, smoky herbs, and eucalypt. Amazing! Palate has lovely length and structure, with still sweet plums finishing off with a silky texture, super fine integrated tannins. Perhaps the most beautifully balanced and harmonious Aussie wine I have ever had. Just short of near perfection by some obtrusive acid poking out at end. A feminine wine, showing no signs of decline in the 50 minutes had it in my glass. This is why we cellar wine. Shared with a great bunch of people, it was a special occasion. Made the 70 Latour and Granges that followed seem clumsy and angular and awkward and one-dimensional! Truly great wine. Thanks to Napoleon for sourcing this!
96 / 100
1970 Chateau Latour
Deep red. Hints of brown. Astonishing colour really! Nose is deep with rich roasted nuts, blackfruits, vegetable garden. Quite awesome and unevolved. Palate is dry and earthy, brutish, almost aggressive in its power, with amazing tannins. Very masculine against the 63 Peppermint Patty with shorter finish. The best bottles are among the best ever wines I have ever had. This one wasn’t up to par, or perhaps suffered from coming after the sheer delight that was the Patty.
93 / 100
Then on to a bracket of 1979’s:
1979 Chateau Cheval Blanc
Light to medium red. Nose is a bit simple, showing some overt oak. Not a lot of fruit on palate and a bit past it IMO. Good, drinkable but the least of the 3 1979s. Never showed well from start. Tired.
83/100
1979 Chateau Margaux
Mid red. Deepest colour of 3. Quite rich nose and most youthful with moss, cherries and a high tone. Palate was initially mute and tannic, with abundant seaweed characters that nearly everyone picked up! Full palate with good length. Nicely balanced. Lacks weight to be great but got better and better.
89 / 100
24 hours later: much fuller and holding up well. Less tannic and lovely easy drinking. More Margaux-like!
90 / 100
1979 Chateau Trotanoy
Mid red. Slightly lighter than the Margaux. Lush and exotic nose from one of my favourite chateau’s. Some AV heat evident. Lush palate with very dry tannins, obfuscating the wine’s balance. A tough wine that fell apart after 30 minutes.
86 / 100
Blend of 1979 Cheval Blanc, LMHB and Trotanoy!
60% Cheval, 20% LMHB and 20% Trotanoy. Yes, I did it and guess what, it was the pretty schmick! Lovely integrated nose showing richness of Margaux with nice fruit. Palate was interesting, with tannins less noticeable than above wines, but lacking the definition of the Margaux.
87 / 100
Then a bracket of 1981’s:
1981 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion
Dark red. Hint of brown. Nose is classic Bordeaux – graphite, cedar, rich blackfruits and earth. Palate very, very dry (akin to the 1985 LMHB we had at Tetsuya’s recently) and lacking fruit richness. Product of vintage. Simple and one dimensional. Not up to scratch or its reputation. Far too tannic.
85 / 100
1981 Chateau Haut-Brion
Lighter red than LMHB. Bouquet is like dipping your noggin in a vegemite jar, with tar, stewed veges and cooked fruit. Palate is short, tannic, yeasty and OTH. Very disappointing. Had a brilliant bottle about 15 months ago that we all thought was Grand cru burgundy such was its sweet, beguiling floral bouquet!
NR
1981 Tyrrell’s Vat 5 Shiraz (Hunter Valley)
Light red with brown meniscus. Nose of sweet spices and plum-like fruit. Far superior to the two Bordeaux’s but still not a lot of complexity. Palate is very good and held up well in glass. Nice and soft with elegant remnants of fruit. Good balance. A nice old wine that lacks development.
88 / 100
Then on to a series of five good to very good vintages of Grange (granted no great vintages). Usual crumbling corks. In summary, very disappointing: just too clumsy, big and lacking charm.
1977 Penfolds Grange Hermitage (sic)
Red, and quite murky. Nose initially was a bit mute but opened up with green capsicum, some coffee tones. Palate is very good, with very good length but has a slightly bitter finish from dusty tannins. Good texture. Very full and rich. My favourite of the Grange lot (compared all 5 bouquet-by-bouquet and palate-by-palate and always came back to this one for the length and balance. All the others were gibbering about the World Cup! 24 hours later: no signs of decline but hadn’t changed at all! The same wine.
88 / 100
1979 Penfolds Grange Hermitage (sic)
Mid red. Better clarity here. More acetone and oak evident here. Simple dark chocolate. Almost feral and touch gritty compared to others. Hints of nail varnish. Complex, but not in a good way. Palate remains very rich and dense. Length, whilst good, not up to 1977. more tannic and oakier too. A monolithic wine that screamed where the 1977 whispered.
87 / 100
1980 Penfolds Grange Hermitage (sic)
Mid red. Similar in colour to 1979. Deep and powerful nose but not showing the development of the 1979. AV lift more obvious too. Most “porty†of the set. Palate doesn’t have a lot of tannin, making the wine finish a touch dilute. Bit short. More red fruits (raspberry) spectrum than blackfruits of 1977 and 1979. Just not up to those two tonight, despite a truly great bottle had about 9 months ago which rated 94/100 9from my cellar).
85 / 100
1981 Penfolds Grange Hermitage (sic)
Mid red with some obvious browning. Very forward style with good fruit but weakest nose of the 5 given massive vanilla oak. Palate is very elegant and plush. Lacking in mid palate. Finishes very tannic but not as much as the 1977 or 1979. Very good but lacks weight and concentration.
86 / 100
1984 Penfolds Grange Hermitage (sic)
Less red than previous 4 vintages. More mute on the nose too. Then gentle blackfruits and liquorice galore! Palate is deeper than the 81 and better with good length. Very full bodied. Too much obvious oak however in this vintage. All angles – will it ever integrate? Who knows…
84 / 100
After this, the gang was getting a little restless and we probably should have stopped here. Napoleon was turbo-charging his way into “trash modeâ€Â, others were wandering about Mark’s house like lost souls from a Dostoevsky novel, and there were about 5 or 6 separate conversation going on and no one was really taking notice of what followed. Except me…coz they were my wines too!
1979 Chateau Musar
13.7%. Double decanted for 2 hours. Light to medium red. Clear bricking. Typical Musar nose of ham, salami, meats, acetone, VA, za’taar spices. Surprisingly very elegant palate, with lovely balance and length. Good concentration. Finishes with strong acidity. Excellent length. Very good wine. Will try remains tonight.
88 / 100
1977 Moulin Touchais
Recorked and re-released in 2005. 13.5%. Mid gold. Lovely clarity. Nose of apricot brandy, sulphur and peachy sweets. Palate has lots of obvious acid and good length. Pretty good overall considering weak vintage but mid sweet rather than luscious like sauternes. Not too cloying. Bit short. In an awkward state: not sure if it wants to remain primary or has developed prematurely. Rather like an oxidative young dessert wine.
86 / 100
1968 Hardy’s Vintage Port (sic)
Mid red. Slight bricking. Very nutty nose and lovely chocolatey sweetness. Touch of AV. Palate is pretty good with good length and ripeness. Tannins fully integrated so it finishes quite soft. Some alcohol heat detracts. Drinking very well. 24 hours later: no change!
87 / 100
At this point I was ready to opne a few more but as usual the rest were all weary!
Massive thanks to Mark and Ingrid for hosting at their home. Mark, great job in the kitchen too! Lucy is so lovely! A top night.