TN: 1986 Tyrrell's Vat 1 Riesling (Semillon)

[Adair]

Tasted at Offline on Saturday 14th September 2003 at restaurant Atelier in Newtown, Sydney:

1986 Tyrrells Vat 1 Riesling (Semillon):

The wine was served in its original bottle (tall Riesling bottle) but with aluminium foil around its top so as to hide the wineÂ’s identity.

Yellow with good depth, not gold, like a good 5-year old Australian Riesling. As soon as I smelt this wine, I turned to Paul Verdich, the generous gentleman who presented this wine, and thanked him. I confidently stated that this would be the greatest wine drunk tonight. It was. The first sip gave me “goose bumps”. I stated that if I could not see the shape of the bottle, I would say without hesitation that this was great 10-15 year old Burgundy. It compared well to the 1973 Leroy “La Piéce-sous-le-Bois” Meursault I had experienced a few months ago. However, I knew that correctly deducing the vintage was near impossible as a wine like this is ageless. I then realised that this could only be from three producers, McWilliam's Mount Pleasant, Lindemans or Tyrrell's and only from a great year. I even queried whether this was the fabled 1970 Lindemans Chablis.

I will restate here Gary Walsh’s description of the wine as it described the base components excellently: “Nutty and toasty with floral honey lime aromas. Still lively on the palate with lemon lime and toast flavours. Fine acidity and great length”. In addition, I noted a smooth, soft French oak mouthfeel and taste on the front palate as well as a little marmalade just stating to show itself.

However, what this description does not covey is how perfectly these components melted together. The wine was seamless. So balanced and harmonised were its components that the wine used the past 17 years for its own good, without any of timeÂ’s decaying powers having any effect. This wine, like a 17 year old human, had yet to reach maturity. Indeed, I think this wine at 40 years will be looking better than I. The flavours were just stating to develop. The only indication the wine gave of its age was the depth of those flavours present.

I struggle to describe this wine without use of metaphor. I think those who have had great middle-aged restrained Burgundy or maybe even that 1970 Lindemans Chablis will understand. I have a case of 2000 Vat 1 in my cellar. I hope that in 20-years time I have a similar experience to that which this wine gave. Rated as Outstanding/Ultimate. This is the greatest Australian white wine I have tasted!

Adair

[Attila]

...and so it goes. I've had a very similar experience to you with the TYRRELLS Vat 1 1989 Semillon that quite simply stunned me a few months back. I wrote tasting note No.33 on the old Auswine forum (is it still there I wonder?) on that wine. I still remember it, awesome wine. No doubt, the 1986 is in the same league.
If you are interested, the 1989 is still available in Sydney at AU $80 per bottle. This one is bottled in a burgundy shaped bottle.
Cheers,
Attila