Wines of the Year
Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2005 12:25 pm
Another wonderful year for wine which for me started off spectacularly with a celebratory weekend of Giaconda verticals, fascinating offlines and dinners like the PWS Burghound Dinner at Circa, Randall's Bordeaux First Growths 2002 Dinner, Domaine Leroy lunch etc and ending the year with a Bass Phillip 20 year dinner. Leaving aside the world's finest, I am more interested in the punters' views on new release vaguely affordable wines. Philip Rich, Tim White, Jeremy Oliver, Campbell Mattison and James Halliday have recently published theirs.
Here is my list:
Jacquesson 729 First tasted as a prelude to Dom Leroy, I thought it wonderful, but was it reflected glory? Since had it 3-4 times and this cuvée rockets straight into the top tier of NV Champagne on par with Louis Roederer, Billecart Salmon and Bollinger. Fine, elegant, intense. Cannot recommend it too highly.
Riesling
Another great year for Riesling and we are spoilt for choice: highlights
Crawford River 2004 Crisp, intense and packed with flavour. This is a wonderful Rhine styled Riesling.
Leo Buring Leonay 2005 My pick of the Eden Valley. Slatey, minerally and linear. Great structure. Fabo.
Mitchell 2005 Arguably shaded by Seppelts Drumborg 2005, Mesh 2005 and Petaluma Hanlin Hill 2005, (very little between them in quality terms, only style preferences separate) but when one accounts for the bargain price this represents stunning value for money. This wine has provenance with assured cellaring potential. Lovely minerality and persistence.
Philip Rich nailed it in the Fin Review. If there is a great deal of overlap in my choices and his it is probably as a result of some of the great tastings hosted by the Prince which wine store stands as a beacon of quality and service. Great tastings, masterclasses and dinners always replete with Riedel Chianti stemware. The depth of knowledge is second to none. Special mention should also be made of Randall's similar qualities.
Chardonnay
Bindi Quartz Chardonnay 2004
This is one sophisticated top tier Aussie chardonnay which bears more than a nod to Chablis in style and direction. Racy, slatey, long and explosive. Jeremy Oliver regarded Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2002 as his wine of the year terming it a 'stellar wine'. Side by side, and as good and rich and complex as the Leeuwin is, the Bindi Quartz was a significant step up leaving the Leeuwin looking a lovely old fashioned wine in comparison.
Mt Mary Chardonnay 2004
The wine of the Mount Mary Release and one of the finest since 1987.
Again a very French style with lanolin, minerals and controlled power.
Pinot Noir
Very promising pinots have emerged from Mornington Peninsula in 2003, but be careful in generalisations as some 'cool climate' pinots from this hot year verge on Dry Red rather than pinot noir. 2004 may well evolve to be more classical.
Bannockburn Serre Pinot Noir 2000
Langtons Classification tasting at the Prince highlighted just how good this wine is. Nothwithstanding the steep price this represents pinnacle Australian pinot noir and given the quality it is fair value.
Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2003
Despite the controversy this wine engendered at the Stonier's International Pinot Noir Tasting in Sydney, (I wasn't there). I thought this was all class. No smoke and mirrors: a very pretty long wine and representative of why Ata Rangi is one of the twin towers of NZ pinot along with Felton Road.
Moorooduc Estate - The Moorooduc Pinot Noir 2003
In the history of modern music there is a famous quote (1974) from Rolling Stone journalist, John Landau who later became Springsteen's manager... Not that I particularly endorse Springsteen, but it is a good line.
"Still, today, if I hear a record I like it is no longer a signal for me to seek out every other that the artist has made. I take them as they come, love them, and leave them. Some have stuck -- a few that come quickly to mind are Neil Young's After the Goldrush...- but many more slip through the mind, making much fainter impressions than their counterparts of a decade ago.
But tonight there is someone I can write of the way I used to write, without reservations of any kind. Last Thursday, at the Harvard Square theatre, I saw my rock'n'roll past flash before my eyes. And I saw something else: I saw rock and roll future and its name is Bruce Springsteen. And on a night when I needed to feel young, he made me feel like I was hearing music for the very first time."
Today, I saw the future of Australian pinot noir ( no, not really, just vintage 2003), and its name is The Moorooduc 2003. Forget Stonier's Reserve, forget any Paringa; remember one duck label that Rory picked a long time before: Moorooduc, not the Estate, but The Moorooduc- a plush, ripe, incredibly complex amalgam of forest aromas and dark berries; a seductive soft whisper that hints of sex in a bottle. 2003 Mornington is to be reckoned with and if anything beats this I'd like to know about it. For the price this delivers big time. All things considered...My wine of the Year.
Bass Phillip Premium Pinot Noir 2004
Just been botlled. Straight out of the blocks this is poles apart from the dessicated 2003. This is beautiful wine and a great example from Australia's finest producer. It is bright, round, long with cool berries. It will evolve in time to be something special.
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2003
I tried to keep the list Australasian, but special mention should go to this ripper Italian producer whose range of reds especially the stunning Cepparello bears repeating.
Immediately attractive. Lovely savouriness and controlled velvety texture. Very elegant. A cracker. Long, beguiling length. It just comes in waves pulsating over the palate. How good.
Voyager Estate Cabernet Merlot 2001
From the great 2001 Margaret River vintage this wine is plush, round, and riveting. This represents exceptional value and will develop to rival the 1998 of this marque which is knocking on the door of the elite level of Margaret River cabernets.
Cape Mentelle Cabernet 2001
In the 1980's Cape Mentelle shot to prominence with the back to back 1982-1983 Jimmy Watson Awards, but has in recent years shown indifferent form and Devil's Lair, Voyager Estate, Woodlands have usually delivered far better, quite apart from Cullens and Moss Wood in another league.
However, 2001 is a thundering return to form. Class act, this one. A six pack buy.
Seppelts St Peters Shiraz 2003
Light elegant colour; spicy dark fruits, sour cherry, aniseed, lovely sweet fruit married with a vevety astringent finish. Too easy. The real deal. Stacks up well against top flight Hermitage as was found at the Seppelts St Peters Masterclass conducted by winemaker Arthur O'Connor at the Southcorp roadshow.
Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2004
Louie and Rick walk off into the fog to start their beautiful friendship in Casablanca with the famous tag "round up the usual suspects". One may be forgiven that Clonakilla SV is a lazy entry; a default on best of lists- one of the usual suspects along with Giaconda Chardonnay and Grosset Polish Hill Riesling. But there is a reason for this cliché: quite possibly this is one of the best, if not the best wine in Australia and is destined on current form to be an icon rival to Grange. Big statement, I know, but if Clonakilla was a share one would be buying it by the bucket loads as the upside potential is almost unlimited.
What can I say that hasn't already been said before: Velvety, seamless, perfectly balanced. Very sophisticated.
Winery of the Year
Hoddles Creek
With a rebadged label this winery delivers exceptional value across the range. Maybe the 2004 Chardonnay will be better than the highly vaunted 2003 which shot the producer to prominence. There is no dud in the range and the 2004 Pinot represents stunning value for money. $17 unbelievable. I only wish they made a sangiovese.
Merry Christmas everyone and may you drink well.
Neville k
Here is my list:
Jacquesson 729 First tasted as a prelude to Dom Leroy, I thought it wonderful, but was it reflected glory? Since had it 3-4 times and this cuvée rockets straight into the top tier of NV Champagne on par with Louis Roederer, Billecart Salmon and Bollinger. Fine, elegant, intense. Cannot recommend it too highly.
Riesling
Another great year for Riesling and we are spoilt for choice: highlights
Crawford River 2004 Crisp, intense and packed with flavour. This is a wonderful Rhine styled Riesling.
Leo Buring Leonay 2005 My pick of the Eden Valley. Slatey, minerally and linear. Great structure. Fabo.
Mitchell 2005 Arguably shaded by Seppelts Drumborg 2005, Mesh 2005 and Petaluma Hanlin Hill 2005, (very little between them in quality terms, only style preferences separate) but when one accounts for the bargain price this represents stunning value for money. This wine has provenance with assured cellaring potential. Lovely minerality and persistence.
Philip Rich nailed it in the Fin Review. If there is a great deal of overlap in my choices and his it is probably as a result of some of the great tastings hosted by the Prince which wine store stands as a beacon of quality and service. Great tastings, masterclasses and dinners always replete with Riedel Chianti stemware. The depth of knowledge is second to none. Special mention should also be made of Randall's similar qualities.
Chardonnay
Bindi Quartz Chardonnay 2004
This is one sophisticated top tier Aussie chardonnay which bears more than a nod to Chablis in style and direction. Racy, slatey, long and explosive. Jeremy Oliver regarded Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2002 as his wine of the year terming it a 'stellar wine'. Side by side, and as good and rich and complex as the Leeuwin is, the Bindi Quartz was a significant step up leaving the Leeuwin looking a lovely old fashioned wine in comparison.
Mt Mary Chardonnay 2004
The wine of the Mount Mary Release and one of the finest since 1987.
Again a very French style with lanolin, minerals and controlled power.
Pinot Noir
Very promising pinots have emerged from Mornington Peninsula in 2003, but be careful in generalisations as some 'cool climate' pinots from this hot year verge on Dry Red rather than pinot noir. 2004 may well evolve to be more classical.
Bannockburn Serre Pinot Noir 2000
Langtons Classification tasting at the Prince highlighted just how good this wine is. Nothwithstanding the steep price this represents pinnacle Australian pinot noir and given the quality it is fair value.
Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2003
Despite the controversy this wine engendered at the Stonier's International Pinot Noir Tasting in Sydney, (I wasn't there). I thought this was all class. No smoke and mirrors: a very pretty long wine and representative of why Ata Rangi is one of the twin towers of NZ pinot along with Felton Road.
Moorooduc Estate - The Moorooduc Pinot Noir 2003
In the history of modern music there is a famous quote (1974) from Rolling Stone journalist, John Landau who later became Springsteen's manager... Not that I particularly endorse Springsteen, but it is a good line.
"Still, today, if I hear a record I like it is no longer a signal for me to seek out every other that the artist has made. I take them as they come, love them, and leave them. Some have stuck -- a few that come quickly to mind are Neil Young's After the Goldrush...- but many more slip through the mind, making much fainter impressions than their counterparts of a decade ago.
But tonight there is someone I can write of the way I used to write, without reservations of any kind. Last Thursday, at the Harvard Square theatre, I saw my rock'n'roll past flash before my eyes. And I saw something else: I saw rock and roll future and its name is Bruce Springsteen. And on a night when I needed to feel young, he made me feel like I was hearing music for the very first time."
Today, I saw the future of Australian pinot noir ( no, not really, just vintage 2003), and its name is The Moorooduc 2003. Forget Stonier's Reserve, forget any Paringa; remember one duck label that Rory picked a long time before: Moorooduc, not the Estate, but The Moorooduc- a plush, ripe, incredibly complex amalgam of forest aromas and dark berries; a seductive soft whisper that hints of sex in a bottle. 2003 Mornington is to be reckoned with and if anything beats this I'd like to know about it. For the price this delivers big time. All things considered...My wine of the Year.
Bass Phillip Premium Pinot Noir 2004
Just been botlled. Straight out of the blocks this is poles apart from the dessicated 2003. This is beautiful wine and a great example from Australia's finest producer. It is bright, round, long with cool berries. It will evolve in time to be something special.
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2003
I tried to keep the list Australasian, but special mention should go to this ripper Italian producer whose range of reds especially the stunning Cepparello bears repeating.
Immediately attractive. Lovely savouriness and controlled velvety texture. Very elegant. A cracker. Long, beguiling length. It just comes in waves pulsating over the palate. How good.
Voyager Estate Cabernet Merlot 2001
From the great 2001 Margaret River vintage this wine is plush, round, and riveting. This represents exceptional value and will develop to rival the 1998 of this marque which is knocking on the door of the elite level of Margaret River cabernets.
Cape Mentelle Cabernet 2001
In the 1980's Cape Mentelle shot to prominence with the back to back 1982-1983 Jimmy Watson Awards, but has in recent years shown indifferent form and Devil's Lair, Voyager Estate, Woodlands have usually delivered far better, quite apart from Cullens and Moss Wood in another league.
However, 2001 is a thundering return to form. Class act, this one. A six pack buy.
Seppelts St Peters Shiraz 2003
Light elegant colour; spicy dark fruits, sour cherry, aniseed, lovely sweet fruit married with a vevety astringent finish. Too easy. The real deal. Stacks up well against top flight Hermitage as was found at the Seppelts St Peters Masterclass conducted by winemaker Arthur O'Connor at the Southcorp roadshow.
Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2004
Louie and Rick walk off into the fog to start their beautiful friendship in Casablanca with the famous tag "round up the usual suspects". One may be forgiven that Clonakilla SV is a lazy entry; a default on best of lists- one of the usual suspects along with Giaconda Chardonnay and Grosset Polish Hill Riesling. But there is a reason for this cliché: quite possibly this is one of the best, if not the best wine in Australia and is destined on current form to be an icon rival to Grange. Big statement, I know, but if Clonakilla was a share one would be buying it by the bucket loads as the upside potential is almost unlimited.
What can I say that hasn't already been said before: Velvety, seamless, perfectly balanced. Very sophisticated.
Winery of the Year
Hoddles Creek
With a rebadged label this winery delivers exceptional value across the range. Maybe the 2004 Chardonnay will be better than the highly vaunted 2003 which shot the producer to prominence. There is no dud in the range and the 2004 Pinot represents stunning value for money. $17 unbelievable. I only wish they made a sangiovese.
Merry Christmas everyone and may you drink well.
Neville k
Really?