TN: High scoring Parker wines (Mitolo, Amon-Ra, Torbreck)
Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 6:22 pm
Another nice shop tasting. Wines had been opened a few hours before. FWIW, I happen to like many styles of Syrah/Shiraz, from French Hermitage & Cote Rotie, through the numerous California styles, to the wide range of Australian wines. These are all "high scoring" Parker wines, and I feel comfortable evaluating them in the context of the style they attempt to achieve. In light of other concurrent threads on the subject of Parker vs. Halliday, I don't have any problem with the style of these wines. I enjoy drinking them on occasion, just as I enjoy wines in other parts of the spectrum (e.g., Graveyard, Dalwhinnie, Aberfeldy). I find the idea of blasting one style of wine, while favoring another style ridiculous (particularly if it's done to spite other critics). Enjoy what you like, live and let live
2001 Elderton Shiraz "Command"
Dense, ripe, lush, silky, some spice and road tar, very nice, fairly long finish, moderate tannins. Quite similar to previous versions. 93/100
2004 Glaetzer Shiraz Barossa
Dark, lush, slightly sweet, moderate/medium tannins, slightly savory on the finish. 91/100
2004 Mitolo Shiraz "G.A.M."
A puzzlement. Ripe, silky, dense, lots of toasty anise, and road tar coming through on the finish, I presume from a fairly high oak exposure. An impressive wine in some ways, but the problem I have with this (and it's previous versions) is that it is like a black hole - nothing escapes its grip. Essentially, there is too much of everything, never a chance for the various components and characteristics to be delineated. Like walking into a house that is just crammed to the ceiling with so much furniture and knick-knacks that you can't take it all in. Couple that with the higher levels of tarry oak, and this is not really my style. 90/100
2004 Mitolo Shiraz "Savitar"
Big, but a bit more reserved than the G.A.M. Very nice balance, just touches of licorice/tar. 92/100
2004 Amon-Ra Shiraz
Intriguing nose of spices and violets; in contrast to the Mitolo wines there is higher acidity and more tannic structure; dark and dense, but restrained in its way, with great balance. Perhaps toned down a half notch from the 2002 wine (I never tried the 03), this is even better, and I scored it higher than Parker's 93. 95/100
2004 Amon-Ra Shiraz/Cabernet "Godolphin"
Huge, deep, rich fruit, an edge of sweetness, but grounded by an immense, dark foundation. Perfect acidity and tannins, a very long finish with an unusual kicker of a secondary layer of dark baritone fruit. Incredible wine, one that meets the challenge of achieving such immense proportions, while maintaining a superb balance - this could be an even more impressive wine in 10 years. 97/100
2003 Torbreck Shiraz "The Descendant"
Now we've shifted gears. The previous wines are like driving a Ferrari - all flash, speed, and sizzle. The Torbreck wines are like driving a Jaguar - powerful yet classy and sophisticated. The Descendant's Viognier component is strikingly obvious at first whiff, with its sweet perfume that transitions to beautiful, deep, black fruit flavors, lifted to a level of brightness by the Viognier, with a long, memorable finish. 96/100
2003 Torbreck Shiraz "The Factor"
Ripe, almost jammy nose, even a bit caramelized; Deep, ripe fruit, quite tannic, medium finish with mouth puckering tannins. This is a wine to put away for the long haul. 94/100
2002 Torbreck Shiraz "Run Rig"
Slight Viognier perfume, but not nearly as evident as the Descendant; explosive, bright, black/boysenberry fruit, quite high levels of medium/fine tannins, and a medium long finish. Tremendous wine, but needs some years. 97/100
Regards,
Alan
2001 Elderton Shiraz "Command"
Dense, ripe, lush, silky, some spice and road tar, very nice, fairly long finish, moderate tannins. Quite similar to previous versions. 93/100
2004 Glaetzer Shiraz Barossa
Dark, lush, slightly sweet, moderate/medium tannins, slightly savory on the finish. 91/100
2004 Mitolo Shiraz "G.A.M."
A puzzlement. Ripe, silky, dense, lots of toasty anise, and road tar coming through on the finish, I presume from a fairly high oak exposure. An impressive wine in some ways, but the problem I have with this (and it's previous versions) is that it is like a black hole - nothing escapes its grip. Essentially, there is too much of everything, never a chance for the various components and characteristics to be delineated. Like walking into a house that is just crammed to the ceiling with so much furniture and knick-knacks that you can't take it all in. Couple that with the higher levels of tarry oak, and this is not really my style. 90/100
2004 Mitolo Shiraz "Savitar"
Big, but a bit more reserved than the G.A.M. Very nice balance, just touches of licorice/tar. 92/100
2004 Amon-Ra Shiraz
Intriguing nose of spices and violets; in contrast to the Mitolo wines there is higher acidity and more tannic structure; dark and dense, but restrained in its way, with great balance. Perhaps toned down a half notch from the 2002 wine (I never tried the 03), this is even better, and I scored it higher than Parker's 93. 95/100
2004 Amon-Ra Shiraz/Cabernet "Godolphin"
Huge, deep, rich fruit, an edge of sweetness, but grounded by an immense, dark foundation. Perfect acidity and tannins, a very long finish with an unusual kicker of a secondary layer of dark baritone fruit. Incredible wine, one that meets the challenge of achieving such immense proportions, while maintaining a superb balance - this could be an even more impressive wine in 10 years. 97/100
2003 Torbreck Shiraz "The Descendant"
Now we've shifted gears. The previous wines are like driving a Ferrari - all flash, speed, and sizzle. The Torbreck wines are like driving a Jaguar - powerful yet classy and sophisticated. The Descendant's Viognier component is strikingly obvious at first whiff, with its sweet perfume that transitions to beautiful, deep, black fruit flavors, lifted to a level of brightness by the Viognier, with a long, memorable finish. 96/100
2003 Torbreck Shiraz "The Factor"
Ripe, almost jammy nose, even a bit caramelized; Deep, ripe fruit, quite tannic, medium finish with mouth puckering tannins. This is a wine to put away for the long haul. 94/100
2002 Torbreck Shiraz "Run Rig"
Slight Viognier perfume, but not nearly as evident as the Descendant; explosive, bright, black/boysenberry fruit, quite high levels of medium/fine tannins, and a medium long finish. Tremendous wine, but needs some years. 97/100
Regards,
Alan