I donÂ’t blame you if you donÂ’t care about this Hungarian wine region because you probably havenÂ’t tried any wines from here, so why would you be interested? Because they are brilliant. Wait 'till you try a good dry white from this tiny region.
The magic of Somló Hill lies in its volcanic soil. After all, it is a dead volcano producing great whites full of life. So now visit with me if you like.
One of the best is the Fekete Winery, owned by the now almost 79 years old winemaker, Mr.Béla Fekete and his wife Borbála. Their black dog Morzsi (Breadcrumb) is also a permanent resident here.
Magical Somló Hill - my favourite Hungarian wine region
I wrote about the Fekete winery and Somló extensively last year. Should you be interested in that story, click here: http://forum.auswine.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=2078
My 2005 tasting tour begun in the cellar by trying four 2004 barrel samples. I’ll give only brief descriptions because, as far as I know, only Adair and I own Fekete bottles in Sydney or perhaps in the whole of Australia. You should note that "Somlói" means "of Somló", and that Somlói wines are all white. Red wines are rarely made here although the newly established Kreinbacher winery recently planted Syrah.
2004 FEKETE Somlói Juhfark (Sheeps Tail)
Intense, fresh nose. Lean and fiery palate. The volcanic origin shows through. Fabulous long finish. Quite full bodied with developing white stone fruit flavours. Would rate outstanding if bottled now.
2004 FEKETE Somlói Furmint
The Fekete dry Furmints have not impressed me too much in the past except for the lovely 2001. This is one of the best I have tried from this producer. Green asparagus on the nose. Flavourful complex palate and superb length on the finish. Very impressive, a top Furmint in the making.
2004 FEKETE Somlói Hárslevelű (Linden Leaf)
Amazing floral notes and honey on the nose. Decadent, temptingly fruity, almost sweet palate. Adair would love this as this vintage is very similar to the great 2002. Mile long finish with superb complexity. Wow.
Tasting the lovely and tempting 2004 Hárslevelű from barrel together
2004 FEKETE Somlói Chardonnay
My views on Somlói Chardonnay haven’t changed. It should not be made at all. It should be grafted over to something more exciting.
This year, like last year, Mr.Fekete looked hurt by my stern remarks but confessed "I make less and less. It is only for my own pleasure now†he says with a smile.
In my glass the wine tastes soft and already tired. A pleasant quaffing wine. Finishes short and simple.
I say no more as I see the great old man going about noticeably slower than last year. I realised suddenly that one day heÂ’ll be gone... and then what will happen to this great winery?
"I have received offers, but I’m not selling. My son Zsolt will continue my legacy. That is my hope†he says as we sit outside in the sun by the long table trying the bottled wines. Borbala serves her amazing cheese cones as I excitedly wait to try the South Side Juhfark I tried from barrel last year.
2003 FEKETE Somlói Juhfark (South Side)
I get quite shocked when I see that (Déli oldal) “South-Side†is not mentioned on the label. I find out that when the standard release sold out, this much better wine went onto the market as “Second Release†instead of a single vineyard wine from the South Side. I don’t mind because I know that there is a great difference between the standard release and this. No complaints. There is one great wine in my glass now.
Interesting, slightly floral and lemony nose. Savoury, restrained, complex palate with an array of mineral flavours. Do NOT chill this wine, only cool it to catch all of its flavours. Mouthwatering acid on the finish with absolutely great length. Drink it with food. For me, pan-fried John Dory comes to mind. For Adair, chicken pasta with penne in a cream sauce.
Mr Fekete showing an award he received for his outstanding 2002 Hárslevelű. On the table, a bottle of the lovely 2003 South-side Juhfark.
2003 FEKETE Somlói Furmint
Quite a charmless, cool wine. Fiery with neutral flavours. The 2004 barrel sample is much better. This one is lacking excitement and character but is still decent.
2003 FEKETE Somlói Hárslevelű
Ah, now we are talking. The 2002 vintage took the Hungarian wine world by storm and sold out quickly. Well, the 2003 just been released and it is an even better wine!
Asparagus, fresh fruits on the nose. Full bodied, heavy palate that is velvety, complex and silky. Beautiful weight and super delicious flavours. A soft giant with a fiery finish. The lovechild of the volcano that born out of love and passion of the land. Simply awesome and would put many Alsace Grand Crus to second place. Amazing winemaking. A great Somló wine.
In front of the winery: Kincső, Béla Fekete, Emőke, Attila and Borbála
Our tour and tasting ended here. Of course I stayed on and talked about many things involving wine with Mr.Fekete. He asked about Australia and the styles here. I promised to bring him an excellent Australian dry white next time we meet. (All I need to do now is to find one!)
It is very important for me that we meet again as next year he’ll be 80 years old, but I don’t want him to stop making wine. Yes, I’ll come to Somló again, next time I’m in Hungary, and he should still be here and I’m looking forward to share a glass with him, even if it’s his simple 2004 Chardonnay.
Cheers,
Attila
Tasted: May 29, 2005.
