The Auswine Forum

In the history of modern music there is a famous quote (1974) from Rolling Stone journalist, John Landau who later became Springsteen's manager...

"Still, today, if I hear a record I like it is no longer a signal for me to seek out every other that the artist has made. I take them as they come, love them, and leave them. Some have stuck -- a few that come quickly to mind are Neil Young's After the Goldrush, Stevie Wonder's Innervisions, Van Morrison's Tupelo Honey, James Taylor's records, Valerie Simpson's Exposed, Randy Newman's Sail Away, Exile on Main Street, Ry Cooder's records, and, very specially, the last three albums of Joni Mitchell -- but many more slip through the mind, making much fainter impressions than their counterparts of a decade ago.

But tonight there is someone I can write of the way I used to write, without reservations of any kind. Last Thursday, at the Harvard Square theatre, I saw my rock'n'roll past flash before my eyes. And I saw something else: I saw rock and roll future and its name is Bruce Springsteen. And on a night when I needed to feel young, he made me feel like I was hearing music for the very first time."

Today, I saw the future of Australian pinot noir ( no, not really, just vintage 2003), and its name is The Mooroduc 2003. Forget Stonier's Reserve, forget any Paringa; remember one duck label that Rory picked a long time before: Mooroduc, not the Estate, but The Mooroduc- a plush, ripe, incredibly complex amalgam of forest aromas and dark berries; a seductive soft whisper that hints of sex in a bottle. 2003 Mornington is to be reckoned with and if anything beats this I'd like to know about it.


Its companion, dollar for dollar is Clavelier, Vosne Rosmanee Les Hauts Beaux Monts 2002, a tightly coiled, minerally, abstemious, skeletally proper wine at $53 @Randalls. Invest in a good future.

The PWS put on an a fabulous selection of 2003 Mornington and there is very exciting gear out there: think Port Phillip Estate, Willows Tulum, Stoniers Reserve and Mooroduc. If you like big shiraz/pinot you might like Paringa. I personally don't.


Neville K

Hell Nev, you had me in tears with that!

I'm enquiring for a friend - The Moorooduc, who produces it and where can it be obtained and at what cost?

Neville K wrote:
Its companion, dollar for dollar is Clavelier, Vosne Rosmanee Les Hauts Beaux Monts 2002, a tightly coiled, minerally, abstemious, skeletally proper wine at $53 @Randalls. Invest in a good future.

Neville K

Neville,
Is the Clavelier on sale or something at Randalls- it was originally around $80 a bottle- have been impressed with Clavelier's style.

Cheers

Paul

Paul,
Yes. Reduced on sale the Claveliers. There was also a Vosne Rosmanee Les Mazieres on tasting, but that did not impress.

Neville K

Nev,

And after tasting the '03 Main Ridge 1/2 Acre recently, I think you could put it on the list too (and the '04).

It seems indicative across the Peninsula that some pretty good Pinots were produceed in '02, albeit perhaps mainly due to the massive reduction in crop levels of that year, but '03 seems to be a new thing altogether. Are we at last seeing some good product from the Peninsula?
Vines are getting older, winemakers are learning, grafting to other clones has taken place.
An exciting time!

Rory

Neville,

The personal nature of pinot noir. I tasted the same two Clevaliers on the weekend. Thought the Beaux Monts was really volatile, great structure but just leaping about with volatility. Then tasted the Les Mazieres: super sulphured, almost to the point of faultiness, needs five years, not just arms and legs but fingers and toes too, but it was my preferred wine of the two.

Both tasted like real Burgundy, in need of time. For $55. From 2002.

2003 is good on the Peninsula. Have to track down the moorooduc. Thanks for the tip!

Campbell.

really, the MP Pinot scene is only going to get stronger and stronger. have faith oh ye of little patience.
i believe Peninsula Pinot will age way better than Springsteen has [some things clearly don't improve with time in the bottle]. as a performer he was great young, vibrant and fresh but i think he's gone stale and exhausted. only my opinion of course.

Dorko,

I could not agree more. Neil Young on the other hand is a different story.

The quote was not meant to be a paean to Springsteen (way past his use by date), but respect for Landau's description of his rock'n roll moment of epiphany. I think he wrote with great energy and poignancy.

The Mornington 03s are the best I have seen since the precocious 1997s were released. Unfortunately, with age most of those wines fell apart. But 2003s have great structure and tautness. I was really impressed. Finally, Mornington, which has always promised far more than it has delivered, seems to have turned a corner.

Campbell,
You are spot on about the subjective nature of pinot. I found the Clavelier Vosne Romanée Hautes Maizières 2002 very hard and metallic. Metallic is not good. It is symptomatic of Brett and other faults. It was all over the shop.

The Hauts Beaux Monts had very linear structure, but the promise of flesh and muscles on its bones. I note that Clive Coates highly regards Clevalier and nominates it as a one star performer. In Michelin terms it might be worth a detour especially at $56 for the 02 and $51 for the 01. Premier cru Burgundy from a reputable producer from a superior appellation in a good year makes a lot more sense than this week's unproven Australasian fad at comparable price.

My 2c

Neville K

http://www.winesofgippsland.com/winiries/lyrebirdhill/

The 2001 Reserve is the best Pinot i have had and for a lousy $30 at that. The source some of the fruit from the MP i beleive.