Xin-Shanghai in Kuala Lumpur has been one of my favorite restaurants since it opened 3 months ago. Last night I coordinated a 7 course degustation menu paired to with 7 wines which I simply adored. The sequence of wines at degustation were selected with as much care as the courses to complement each other without being dominering.
We started out with "Vegetarian hor d'oeuvre" with three different types of appetizers consisting of "Shreded tofu curd, Battered/ Deep Fried Vege & Five-flavored beans" to paired with MESH Riesling 2002. It's delicate, zesty with fine balanced between fruit and a steely acidity with hints of apples, lime, floral, musk and light spice that blosomed on my palate..
Second course was followed by "Soup Dumpling(Xiao Loong Pau) & Pan-fried Dumpling" with Cloudy Bay Te Koko 2002. Very ripe fruits with lychees and guava dominated from the nose to palate. The texture is broad, round and very creamy. Certainly not the herbeceous, grassy, pungent and penetrating Sau/Blanc which put Marlbourough on the map. This barrel fermented Sau/Blanc comes with a big reputation and the perfect wine for the Dumplings. The Dumpling is filled with a broth, steamed with the other pan-fried, both contrasting in nature and the soup squirts out in my mouth as I bites with the luscious Te Koko to soften the impact.
The next wine was a Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay 2001 to paired with "Cured Shanghainese Ham", the taste although very similar to "procuito" but much more tender with the gelatin trimmings that give it an extreme sucullent in texture. The Leeuwin was an absolute class with dried apricots, peaches, cashew nuts flavours and nutmeg aftertaste. The firm aciditty cut away the fats and the saltiness from the meat brought the fruits out from the Leeuwin in a full spectrum.
"Fragrant Baked Duck" and Pinot was our next theme.The Walnut Ridge 2000 we had was in the memory of the late-Bill Brink, his last vintage. This 5-hectare estate has since sold to their nearest neighbour "Ata Rangi" and it's a tragedy for all Pinot lover. Ata Rangi didnt continue with the fine tradition but instead continue with the label as their second wine at half the price and obviously the quality of Walnut Ridge has been reduced to a distant memory. The Walnut Ridge 2000 was the most awarded NZ Pinot from the 2000 vintage. Deep, dark and brooding with dark cherry and red berry flavors dominate both nose and palate. Excellent concentration of fruit. The gamy, bacon characteristic make it an ideal pairing with the duck. Fine, stalky tannins on a long finish.
Our next wine, Cullen Cab/ Merlot 1999 was paired with "Braised Lamb Belly" It's a very strong flavoured dish, the Cullen stood up to its task with amazing poise without being overpowered. Pristine blackcurrant fruits, hints of coffee and tobacco, the Cullen is in dazzling form after two hours of aeration in a decanter.
Later we had "Fillet of Beef stir-fried with super chilli" to paired with E&E Black Pepper Shiraz 1999. This wine performed beyond my expectation. Robust and powerful, not to be intimidate by the spicy fillet, this dense and concentrated Shiraz is packed with plums, spices and rich chocolaty flavours that coats the mouth. The food brought out more richness and length of flavour in the wine.
To round up the evening we had three dessert, "Eight-Treasure Glutinous Rice Cake", "Fried Red Bean Dumpling" & Assortment of Shanghainese pastries" with the D'bortoli Noble One 2002. Oily, lanolin like with dried apricots & peaches and a trace of caramel. Extremely rich and perfectly balanced with clean acidity without being heavy nor cloying, it coped very well with the sweet flavours of the dessert.
It was a very enjoyable evening with terrific wines, fine cuisine and camadarie amongst friends.