14 WINES - FEBRUARY CLUB DINNER REPORT
Posted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 10:41 am
14 WINES - FEBRUARY CLUB DINNER REPORT
Six of us gathered at LaszloÂ’s place in Vaucluse for this excellent dinner on the 19th February 2005. Originally we were set up on the magnificent balcony terrace but the rainstorm forced us inside. Attendees were: Danny aka Baby Chickpea, David H from CBD cellars, Stephan aka Scoobinski, Attila, David P MW student and long standing club member Laszlo. Food was excellent and the 14 wines rather good.
Left to right: Attila,DavidP,Stephan,Laszlo,DavidH,Danny.
1983 LOUIS ROEDERER-Cristal Champagne
This is the top and very expensive Roederer from the long established (1776) family house. The first Cristal was created in 1876 for Russian Tsar Alexander ll. A Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend. Its been a while since I drunk this and I enjoyed it very much on this occasion.
Colour golden with bronze hues. Super fine and tiny pinhead bubbles. Vanilla and yeast on the nose. Silky and smooth palate. Very long finish that came on half minute after drinking. A very elegant and seductive wine with a mile long bone dry finish. At its peak now, it is not fruity but is a rather yeasty and mineral style. Laszlo noted that the acid on the finish was too high for his liking however I think this acid was the key element in carrying this wine for 22 years. Loved it. AU $220.
2003 KREINBACHER Birtok-Szt.Ilona Hárslevelű-Somló
One of the flagship wines from the Kreinbacher Winery in Hungary. Dry Somló Hárslevelű wines are legendary. This is a reserve bottling. Only 680 bottles produced from the virgin vintage of 2003 for Kreinbacher.
Colour vibrant golden. Asparagus, vanilla, barrel ferment aromas on the nose. Excellent concentration and sweet fruit on the palate. A weighty wine carrying the alcohol level of 14.3% vol. Fermented in new oak David P found the oak influence too much but it was still clearly varietal and clean. Acacia blossom and honey aromas were trademark Hárslevelű. I last drunk this 7 months ago in Hungary and it has developed considerably since. A full bodied soft dry white that weighs in on you in a pleasant way. Very hard to get anywhere, it cost AU $50.
1995 TYRRELLÂ’S-Vat 1 Hunter Valley Semillon
A great Hunter vintage with yields down 40%. Grapes picked from old vines mostly from the Short flat vineyard. Fermented in stainless steel, no oak whatsoever, bottled June 1995. Winner of 6 gold medals. A beautiful style first produced in 1963. This wine surprised many. Danny took serious note as previously he wasnÂ’t a Semillon collector or fan of this grape. Stephan guessed the vintage spot on while David H identified itÂ’s origin right down to the producer. We were all taken by this excellent wine.
Colour medium gold. Melon pineapple and light fig aromas on the nose. Smooth medium bodied palate. Cool melon flavours. Very clean and beautifully balanced. Although 10 years old, itÂ’s nowhere near its top drinking plateau. Needs at least 10 more years to show its best. Superb length. A very serious dry white indeed. Enjoyed it a lot.
This is the general release label, aged by TyrrellÂ’s. Cost AU $65, alcohol is low at 11.3% vol.
World class Semillon vintage from the Hunter.
1976 PENFOLDS-Bin 128 Coonawarra Claret
A surprising and fantastic start for the red wines. In the guessing game we got as far as Penfolds but no one thought that it was a 29 years old Bin 128 Shiraz.
Colour medium dark red with slight browning on the rim. Dark chocolate, red earth and coffee on the nose. When first swirled, alcohol rose out of the glass. After breathing, lovely soft and fully mature Shiraz flavours on the palate immerged. Medium bodied, graceful and very tasty with spicy prunes and savoury berries. Hats off to this old timer. If you own this, drink it now as my guess is that it won't last beyond thirty. Only AU $36 at auction.
One of the highlights and great survivor.
1999 JOSEPH DROUHIN-Clos Mouches 1er Cru - Beaune
Joseph Drouhin founded this great Burgundy property in 1880, the “Clos Des Mouches†being the very first vineyard he purchased. Interestingly it’s not printed anywhere on the label that “The flies†is a Premier Cru vineyard.
Colour pale cherry red. Cherry, red berries on the nose. Quite reserved. On the palate superbly elegant smooth cherry flavours. Beautiful and excellent Pinot Noir seamlessly balanced with the grainy oak. A class act from a great vintage, beginning to drink now but needs 5-8 years to truly blossom. A cool and stylish red Burgundy that cost AU $125+
1978 CHATEAU BEYCHEVELLE-Saint Julien 5th Growth
Not decanted. The group dismissed it because of the odd smelling nose although we agreed that it was not corked. I took this bottle home after the dinner as a precaution as at a previous club dinner we dismissed the 1979 Cheval Blanc and a grinning Adair had a great time drinking it the next day at home, with NOTHING WRONG with the wine. The same happened this time, except now I was grinning (and Adair).
Colour dark red with bricking on the edge. The next day, classic Bordeaux nose of cigars, oak and dark red berry fruit. Seamless middle palate, smooth, fruity and fully mature. Good current drinking, will still hold a few years as good Bordeaux do. Not an outstanding wine but a very decent Cabernet blend, well worth the AU $50 at auction.
1999 BERNARD DUGAT-PY-Coeur de Roy- Gevrey Chambertin
Mighty great red Burgundy and for me, the wine of the night. It had such power that nothing could measure up against it on the table. Only a village wine, it outshone the previous 1er Cru from Beaune. Wines like this will turn you into a Pinot Noir fan and a dedicated Burgundy connoisseur.
Colour very dark cherry red. Plum and savoury red berries on the nose. Very fresh and young on the palate. At 6 years of age this Pinot is not even opening up. Excellent weight of fruit. Very promising and powerful. Superb balance and fantastic quality oak. After airing in the glass, very complex flavours emerge dominated by raspberry. This is a long haul unfiltered wine made from old vines and old clones of Pinot Noir. It would be interesting to taste this wine in 15 years. Amazing. Danny looked very impressed as well. Now cost AU $150+
The greatness of red Burgundy starts here
I also enclose my tasting note of the 1998 BERNARD DUGAT-PY Gevrey-Chambertin “Coeur The Roy†tasted last July:
“I believe Dugat is a great producer and his “Coeur de Roy†(The Heart of the King) found its way into my heart after one sip. Very dark cherry colour, with a serious nose of mushroomy undergrowth and spicy oak. A classic Gevrey-Chambertin without a doubt, the wine being true to its roots. After swirling, it smelt of forest floor with dark cherry and raspberry. Full bodied on the palate, rich, complex and dark. Appearing cloudy in the glass, it was a natural and unfiltered wine from old vines. More complexity with thick blood plums, cherry and strawberry concentrate on the palate supported with powerful oak. Lots of strength, this wine needs four years to open up but will mature easily for 10 more years. Cost AU $140 if you can find it.Ââ€Â
1990 ANTINORI Tignanello-Tuscany,Italy
A Super Tuscan blend of about 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet. I adored the 1986 vintage of this in the past.
Colour medium red with apricot on the rim. Coffee and chocolate on the nose. Reserved. The palate is soft and full with lovely ripe fruit. Very rich and tasty. The aftertaste is somewhat different as it is very dry on the finish with slightly bitter tannins and grainy oak. At 15 years of age it is ready. Drink it as it may loose fruit later. A good wine but it comes at the price of AU $200.
1983 CHATEAU LEOVILLE LAS CASES-Saint Julien 2nd Growth
The best 1983 Bordeaux vintage tasted of recent memory.
Colour dark cherry red. Red berries, cherries on the nose. Soft, fully mature fruity palate. Nice sweetness. It is velvety and tasty, finishing with fine tannins. Enjoy it now, itÂ’s a very pleasant wine that cost AU $150.
1990 MOSS WOOD-Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
The ‘Special Reserve’ wines are the best effort made by Moss Wood to challenge top quality Bordeaux.
Colour cherry red with bronze rim. Bordeaux like nose of toasted oak and savoury red fruits of Cabernet. Excellent, concentrated sweet fruit on the palate. The fruit intensity in this wine is simply amazing. A very good wine, drinking well now and will peak in 5 years. The finish looked little short but never mind, an outstanding Western Australian red for AU $180.
1990 MOSS WOOD-Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Tasted nothing like the same wine drunk minutes before. No one at the table recognised this wine to be the 1990 Special reserve.
Colour cherry red with bricking. Very reserved nose with not much rising out of the glass. Laszlo stated when asked “What do you smell?†with the answer of “NothingÂâ€Â. Nice berry flavours on the palate but completely lacking the richness and the intensity of the previous bottle. Seamlessly balanced and fully mature, this bottle should be drunk now. Back on release it cost AU $50 cellar door. Interestingly, in the clubÂ’s 13 year history I have never seen an accidental double up like this.
What a coincidence. This has never happened.
2000 GREENOCK CREEK-Seven Acre Barossa Shiraz
I have never tasted anything before from this small producer who is following in the footsteps of Rockford. This is a very interesting wine with an alcohol volume of 12.5%.
Colour dark cherry red. Sweetly aromatic nose promising Ribena and vanilla spice. Blockbuster, super concentrated sweet plum and dark cherry fruit on the palate swallowed up by coconut-vanilla oak. The powerful combination of fruit and oak make this is a seriously interesting wine. I had the feeling that it was just one step away from being "too much" for me but somehow I still managed to accept the style and find it fantastic. I shall get one more bottle of this for further study. Cost AU $60.
1999 HÉTSZŐLŐ-6 puttonyos Tokaji Hárslevelű Aszú-Hungary
Hétszőlő (Seven Clusters) is a top 1st Growth vineyard in Tokaj that comprises of 21 hectares. The owner of Hétszőlő is the French GMF insurance company that established the winery after the fall of communism in 1991. The director and winemaker is the talented Dr. Tibor Kovacs. Tokaji Aszú dessert wines are usually a blend of three varieties; Furmint, Hárslevelű and Yellow Muscat (Sárga Muskotályos) but this wine is unique as it is made from 100% Hárslevelű. The 6 puttonyos level is directly below Aszú Esszencia, a prized and rare wine. Silver medal in Paris and Bordeaux at wine challenges.
Colour bright golden. Complex floral nose with nectar and marmalade. Superb silky apricot fruit flavours on the medium bodied palate. Modern, stylish and very well balanced, this is a lovely example of Tokaji Aszú. Lovely sweet vanilla and honey with fine acid on the finish. Starting to drink now, it will be great in 10 years time. I liked this very much. Cost AU $100+.
2000 MÜNZENRIEDER Eiswein Burgenland Cuvée-Austria 375ml
Ice wine from the Münzenriederer Estate located in the "New Settlers Lake" national park in the Burgenland region of Austria. This family owned winery came on to the bottled wine market in 1991. The estate currently comprises of 18 hectares and 70% of this is planted to white varieties. The winery has a natural approach to winemaking with yield reduction. This wine is a blend of 50% Grüner Veltliner, 15% Welschriesling (also known as Olaszrizling or Italian Riesling that bears no connection to Rhine Riesling), 15% Neuburger, 10% Bouvier and 10% Chardonnay. The frozen grapes were harvested in December from the Apetlon area vineyards. Fermented and kept in stainless steel for 6 months, then the finished wine bottled. It received a bronze medal in the Japanese Wine Challenge.
Colour bright golden clear. White stonefruits on the palate. Good sweetness but certainly not of Ice Wine level as DavidP pointed out. Some unusual taste sensation on the palate no doubt coming from the lesser known grapes used in this blend. The finish looked short (interestingly) with some green fruit characters. Drinking already but will improve for an other 3-7 years. Not in the class of the previous dessert wine. Cost AU $40.
The complete line up for the night.
This dinner was an interesting experience with many eye openers. Thanks again for the good company of the guys and LaszloÂ’s hospitality.
Cheers,
Attila
Six of us gathered at LaszloÂ’s place in Vaucluse for this excellent dinner on the 19th February 2005. Originally we were set up on the magnificent balcony terrace but the rainstorm forced us inside. Attendees were: Danny aka Baby Chickpea, David H from CBD cellars, Stephan aka Scoobinski, Attila, David P MW student and long standing club member Laszlo. Food was excellent and the 14 wines rather good.
Left to right: Attila,DavidP,Stephan,Laszlo,DavidH,Danny.
1983 LOUIS ROEDERER-Cristal Champagne
This is the top and very expensive Roederer from the long established (1776) family house. The first Cristal was created in 1876 for Russian Tsar Alexander ll. A Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend. Its been a while since I drunk this and I enjoyed it very much on this occasion.
Colour golden with bronze hues. Super fine and tiny pinhead bubbles. Vanilla and yeast on the nose. Silky and smooth palate. Very long finish that came on half minute after drinking. A very elegant and seductive wine with a mile long bone dry finish. At its peak now, it is not fruity but is a rather yeasty and mineral style. Laszlo noted that the acid on the finish was too high for his liking however I think this acid was the key element in carrying this wine for 22 years. Loved it. AU $220.
2003 KREINBACHER Birtok-Szt.Ilona Hárslevelű-Somló
One of the flagship wines from the Kreinbacher Winery in Hungary. Dry Somló Hárslevelű wines are legendary. This is a reserve bottling. Only 680 bottles produced from the virgin vintage of 2003 for Kreinbacher.
Colour vibrant golden. Asparagus, vanilla, barrel ferment aromas on the nose. Excellent concentration and sweet fruit on the palate. A weighty wine carrying the alcohol level of 14.3% vol. Fermented in new oak David P found the oak influence too much but it was still clearly varietal and clean. Acacia blossom and honey aromas were trademark Hárslevelű. I last drunk this 7 months ago in Hungary and it has developed considerably since. A full bodied soft dry white that weighs in on you in a pleasant way. Very hard to get anywhere, it cost AU $50.
1995 TYRRELLÂ’S-Vat 1 Hunter Valley Semillon
A great Hunter vintage with yields down 40%. Grapes picked from old vines mostly from the Short flat vineyard. Fermented in stainless steel, no oak whatsoever, bottled June 1995. Winner of 6 gold medals. A beautiful style first produced in 1963. This wine surprised many. Danny took serious note as previously he wasnÂ’t a Semillon collector or fan of this grape. Stephan guessed the vintage spot on while David H identified itÂ’s origin right down to the producer. We were all taken by this excellent wine.
Colour medium gold. Melon pineapple and light fig aromas on the nose. Smooth medium bodied palate. Cool melon flavours. Very clean and beautifully balanced. Although 10 years old, itÂ’s nowhere near its top drinking plateau. Needs at least 10 more years to show its best. Superb length. A very serious dry white indeed. Enjoyed it a lot.
This is the general release label, aged by TyrrellÂ’s. Cost AU $65, alcohol is low at 11.3% vol.
World class Semillon vintage from the Hunter.
1976 PENFOLDS-Bin 128 Coonawarra Claret
A surprising and fantastic start for the red wines. In the guessing game we got as far as Penfolds but no one thought that it was a 29 years old Bin 128 Shiraz.
Colour medium dark red with slight browning on the rim. Dark chocolate, red earth and coffee on the nose. When first swirled, alcohol rose out of the glass. After breathing, lovely soft and fully mature Shiraz flavours on the palate immerged. Medium bodied, graceful and very tasty with spicy prunes and savoury berries. Hats off to this old timer. If you own this, drink it now as my guess is that it won't last beyond thirty. Only AU $36 at auction.
One of the highlights and great survivor.
1999 JOSEPH DROUHIN-Clos Mouches 1er Cru - Beaune
Joseph Drouhin founded this great Burgundy property in 1880, the “Clos Des Mouches†being the very first vineyard he purchased. Interestingly it’s not printed anywhere on the label that “The flies†is a Premier Cru vineyard.
Colour pale cherry red. Cherry, red berries on the nose. Quite reserved. On the palate superbly elegant smooth cherry flavours. Beautiful and excellent Pinot Noir seamlessly balanced with the grainy oak. A class act from a great vintage, beginning to drink now but needs 5-8 years to truly blossom. A cool and stylish red Burgundy that cost AU $125+
1978 CHATEAU BEYCHEVELLE-Saint Julien 5th Growth
Not decanted. The group dismissed it because of the odd smelling nose although we agreed that it was not corked. I took this bottle home after the dinner as a precaution as at a previous club dinner we dismissed the 1979 Cheval Blanc and a grinning Adair had a great time drinking it the next day at home, with NOTHING WRONG with the wine. The same happened this time, except now I was grinning (and Adair).
Colour dark red with bricking on the edge. The next day, classic Bordeaux nose of cigars, oak and dark red berry fruit. Seamless middle palate, smooth, fruity and fully mature. Good current drinking, will still hold a few years as good Bordeaux do. Not an outstanding wine but a very decent Cabernet blend, well worth the AU $50 at auction.
1999 BERNARD DUGAT-PY-Coeur de Roy- Gevrey Chambertin
Mighty great red Burgundy and for me, the wine of the night. It had such power that nothing could measure up against it on the table. Only a village wine, it outshone the previous 1er Cru from Beaune. Wines like this will turn you into a Pinot Noir fan and a dedicated Burgundy connoisseur.
Colour very dark cherry red. Plum and savoury red berries on the nose. Very fresh and young on the palate. At 6 years of age this Pinot is not even opening up. Excellent weight of fruit. Very promising and powerful. Superb balance and fantastic quality oak. After airing in the glass, very complex flavours emerge dominated by raspberry. This is a long haul unfiltered wine made from old vines and old clones of Pinot Noir. It would be interesting to taste this wine in 15 years. Amazing. Danny looked very impressed as well. Now cost AU $150+
The greatness of red Burgundy starts here
I also enclose my tasting note of the 1998 BERNARD DUGAT-PY Gevrey-Chambertin “Coeur The Roy†tasted last July:
“I believe Dugat is a great producer and his “Coeur de Roy†(The Heart of the King) found its way into my heart after one sip. Very dark cherry colour, with a serious nose of mushroomy undergrowth and spicy oak. A classic Gevrey-Chambertin without a doubt, the wine being true to its roots. After swirling, it smelt of forest floor with dark cherry and raspberry. Full bodied on the palate, rich, complex and dark. Appearing cloudy in the glass, it was a natural and unfiltered wine from old vines. More complexity with thick blood plums, cherry and strawberry concentrate on the palate supported with powerful oak. Lots of strength, this wine needs four years to open up but will mature easily for 10 more years. Cost AU $140 if you can find it.Ââ€Â
1990 ANTINORI Tignanello-Tuscany,Italy
A Super Tuscan blend of about 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet. I adored the 1986 vintage of this in the past.
Colour medium red with apricot on the rim. Coffee and chocolate on the nose. Reserved. The palate is soft and full with lovely ripe fruit. Very rich and tasty. The aftertaste is somewhat different as it is very dry on the finish with slightly bitter tannins and grainy oak. At 15 years of age it is ready. Drink it as it may loose fruit later. A good wine but it comes at the price of AU $200.
1983 CHATEAU LEOVILLE LAS CASES-Saint Julien 2nd Growth
The best 1983 Bordeaux vintage tasted of recent memory.
Colour dark cherry red. Red berries, cherries on the nose. Soft, fully mature fruity palate. Nice sweetness. It is velvety and tasty, finishing with fine tannins. Enjoy it now, itÂ’s a very pleasant wine that cost AU $150.
1990 MOSS WOOD-Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
The ‘Special Reserve’ wines are the best effort made by Moss Wood to challenge top quality Bordeaux.
Colour cherry red with bronze rim. Bordeaux like nose of toasted oak and savoury red fruits of Cabernet. Excellent, concentrated sweet fruit on the palate. The fruit intensity in this wine is simply amazing. A very good wine, drinking well now and will peak in 5 years. The finish looked little short but never mind, an outstanding Western Australian red for AU $180.
1990 MOSS WOOD-Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Tasted nothing like the same wine drunk minutes before. No one at the table recognised this wine to be the 1990 Special reserve.
Colour cherry red with bricking. Very reserved nose with not much rising out of the glass. Laszlo stated when asked “What do you smell?†with the answer of “NothingÂâ€Â. Nice berry flavours on the palate but completely lacking the richness and the intensity of the previous bottle. Seamlessly balanced and fully mature, this bottle should be drunk now. Back on release it cost AU $50 cellar door. Interestingly, in the clubÂ’s 13 year history I have never seen an accidental double up like this.
What a coincidence. This has never happened.
2000 GREENOCK CREEK-Seven Acre Barossa Shiraz
I have never tasted anything before from this small producer who is following in the footsteps of Rockford. This is a very interesting wine with an alcohol volume of 12.5%.
Colour dark cherry red. Sweetly aromatic nose promising Ribena and vanilla spice. Blockbuster, super concentrated sweet plum and dark cherry fruit on the palate swallowed up by coconut-vanilla oak. The powerful combination of fruit and oak make this is a seriously interesting wine. I had the feeling that it was just one step away from being "too much" for me but somehow I still managed to accept the style and find it fantastic. I shall get one more bottle of this for further study. Cost AU $60.
1999 HÉTSZŐLŐ-6 puttonyos Tokaji Hárslevelű Aszú-Hungary
Hétszőlő (Seven Clusters) is a top 1st Growth vineyard in Tokaj that comprises of 21 hectares. The owner of Hétszőlő is the French GMF insurance company that established the winery after the fall of communism in 1991. The director and winemaker is the talented Dr. Tibor Kovacs. Tokaji Aszú dessert wines are usually a blend of three varieties; Furmint, Hárslevelű and Yellow Muscat (Sárga Muskotályos) but this wine is unique as it is made from 100% Hárslevelű. The 6 puttonyos level is directly below Aszú Esszencia, a prized and rare wine. Silver medal in Paris and Bordeaux at wine challenges.
Colour bright golden. Complex floral nose with nectar and marmalade. Superb silky apricot fruit flavours on the medium bodied palate. Modern, stylish and very well balanced, this is a lovely example of Tokaji Aszú. Lovely sweet vanilla and honey with fine acid on the finish. Starting to drink now, it will be great in 10 years time. I liked this very much. Cost AU $100+.
2000 MÜNZENRIEDER Eiswein Burgenland Cuvée-Austria 375ml
Ice wine from the Münzenriederer Estate located in the "New Settlers Lake" national park in the Burgenland region of Austria. This family owned winery came on to the bottled wine market in 1991. The estate currently comprises of 18 hectares and 70% of this is planted to white varieties. The winery has a natural approach to winemaking with yield reduction. This wine is a blend of 50% Grüner Veltliner, 15% Welschriesling (also known as Olaszrizling or Italian Riesling that bears no connection to Rhine Riesling), 15% Neuburger, 10% Bouvier and 10% Chardonnay. The frozen grapes were harvested in December from the Apetlon area vineyards. Fermented and kept in stainless steel for 6 months, then the finished wine bottled. It received a bronze medal in the Japanese Wine Challenge.
Colour bright golden clear. White stonefruits on the palate. Good sweetness but certainly not of Ice Wine level as DavidP pointed out. Some unusual taste sensation on the palate no doubt coming from the lesser known grapes used in this blend. The finish looked short (interestingly) with some green fruit characters. Drinking already but will improve for an other 3-7 years. Not in the class of the previous dessert wine. Cost AU $40.
The complete line up for the night.
This dinner was an interesting experience with many eye openers. Thanks again for the good company of the guys and LaszloÂ’s hospitality.
Cheers,
Attila