The Auswine Forum

Hi Good Peoples,

I have tried a few terrific new releases this week, they have been listed in the "recernt" section of torbwine is any one is interested but the highlight of the week as last night.

Tim Adams 1997 Aberfeldy Shiraz

My first bottle form a six pack, I have been able to keep my fingers off it since original purchase some years ago. The dark purple colour with its bright hue looks younger and fresher than a seven year old wine. A very interesting and attractive bouquet with slightly perfumed aromas of blackberry, coco, mulberry and an earthy spice are pretty typical of other vintages of this wine that I have had recently. Muscular in weight, the fine, dusty tannins have softened, the acid is noticeably fresh and handle the pure, intense deeply seated fruit. The first sip certainly makes the senses take notice with the tastebuds salivating for another sip as soon as the first has gone down. Complexity is there with a multitude of flavours; as well as those described on the bouquet, there is aniseed and mint, the whole shebang finishing with terrific persistence. Rated as Excellent, this is a classy wine that is just entering its drinking window and may still improve so there is no hurry to drink up.

Now what have you been drinking? TN's of vibes welcome.

Ahh, Aberfeldy, has there ever been a bad one? I'm always surprised at the subtle but incredible depth of this wine, like dipping into a cool creek you can't see the bottom of; always impeccably balanced too. I don't have the 1997 in the 'cellar', how would you place it against say, 1994 and 1999?

To this week's homework, notepressions only:

Greenock Creek Alice's Shiraz 2001 - Still unsure whether to throw the remaining bottles off to auction or not, so why not try it again to find out? Glowing, highly vibrant, very deep black purple, solid glass cling. Sweet smokey vanilla oak and dark creamy berries, on the nose and palate alike. Very 'big', wonderfully silky mouthfeel, great length with plush tannins that hardly make their presence felt. Lacking only some complexity, otherwise a sheer joy. How long will it keep for? Tough to answer, I think a very long time, but who'll have the self-control to cellar this? I don't know that I'd be happy paying current price, but I'm keeping what I have...it's just too enjoyable not to. It doesn't get an 'Excellent', but instead a big with an 'Ohhhh yeaah...' in Barry White-styled baritone...with quite a factor.

Fox Creek Short Row Shiraz 2000 - This refuses to budge - may have mellowed slightly over the last 2 years, but still a big, broody wine. I don't know that Sparky made this one, but it's more in that style than the current mould...better for it to my palate. Deep black purple, good glass cling. Still a little dumb at first, gives away dark black berries, vanilla pepper and that just the right level of that lovely McLaren Vale spice factor. More of the same on the palate, adding coffee and dark chocolate. Hard call as to whether this got American or French oak? Excellent tight structure, no flab and zero alcohol heat, fine tannins, and a considerably long finish. I don't know if any will survive my curiosity, but this has a good 5-8+ years left in it, and I'd be betting on development of the right kind. Very Good/Excellent.

...briefest of impressions, in (a shambles of a) serving order:

Bidgeebong Gundagai Shiraz 2002 - Big plush red fruits, chocolate and a little oak. Great texture and balance, complex and very good length. Seems quite low in acid, but there's plenty of everything else, so it should hold together well enough for 5-10 years(?) I can see why Halliday got excited, but it's not a 95 pointer in my (own) book. Still, Excellent is warranted now and should improve as it 'comes together'.

Jim Barry McRae Wood Shiraz 2000 - Pretty much as big as the Bidgeebong which it followed, though there's a lot more oak here. Sweet vanilla oak, mocha and chocolate, red and black fruits, and as the Gundagai, never into the over-ripe spectrum. Silky mouthfeel and very good length. It's hard to see this integrating, but there's enough wine to last 5+ years. Very good.

Capel Vale Kinnaird Shiraz 2000 - Creamy red berries, cherry, vanilla, spice and coconut/licorice. Tight high-glycerine mouthfeel, think along the lines of Sally's Paddock or (smaller vintage) Graveyard in terms of texture. Flavours echoing the bouquet, with good length. Ready now, but should hold another 4-6 years. At the good end of Excellent.

Chateau Nenin 1985 (Pomerol) - A curiosity to finish off, this was of an auction 'bargain' of unkown provenance, with high humidity cellaring evident at the the external end of the cork. The rest of the cork was still in fine shape, so looking okay. At first a slightly musty tone, could this be my first ever corked Bordeaux? Phew, no, not quite. Given 5 minutes in the glass, the musty nose vanishes completely, and we have marmalade, caramel, apricots, subdued cherry and red berries. Lovely texture with perfectly integrated tannins and a medium length finish. Drinking now. Showed surprisingly well given the company, I wonder if this wouldn't on it's own warrant a Very Good better...but who knows? Pomerol should just not follow big Australian Shiraz, no two ways about it. Enjoyable though, in any case, and worth the gamble.

Happy Drinking

Jakob

1998 Penfolds Reserve Bin Aged Release Clare Valley Riesling ( $17 ) : This bottle has Gold medal stickers on it - but the only gold medal that this bottle deserved is one for Cork Taint !

2004 Pizzini Rosetta ( $16 ) : - nice dry style rose from Sangiovese grapes.

2003 Howard Park Chardonnay , Western Australia ( $33 ) : Nice but perhaps trying too hard to be " restrained " - anyway still the vanilla and peaches were what I noted even though the label claims grapefruit. Quite good really and well presented in stelvin.

2002 Taylors Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ( $13 ) : Stelvin. Boring.

2000 Barwang Cabenet Sauvignon , Hilltops NSW ( $20 ) : Corked as well.

Rockford 1999 BP Shiraz, not as fat as the 98 but did not suffer for it. Very well balanced wine, heaps of fresh fruit and a long slightly tart finish. Needs time.

Killikanoon Oracle Shiraz 2002, brutal wine that pummels the nose and palate. Slightly out of whack but very enjoyable all the same. Surprisingly light on for tannins making it an easy drink now wine but should improve with integration of it's elements over the next 5+ years.

It was a bit of a mixed week, with some great new release wines.

<b>1999 Joadja Southern Highlands Cabernet Malbec</b>: Dark ruby red with cherries, chocolate mint on the nose. A little too green for my liking. A bit overly drying too. 13/20

<b>2002 Leasingham Bin 61 Shiraz</b>: Deep garnet with stewed mulberries, liquorice and cedar spices. I was very impressed with the concentration and fruit that oozed from this wine. The tannins are well integrated to deliver a very delicious and age worthy wine. 18/20

<b>2002 Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir</b>: Light to medium red with raspberries and cranberries with just a hint of oak. Something reminded me of lillypilly jam I used to make on the farm. Great stuff. 17/20

<b>2000 Bowen Estate Shiraz</b>: Very dark purple and nose of sweet fruits and french oak. Beautifully integrated with that cool climate spice. Very enjoyable! 18.5/20

zanlation wrote:<b>1999 Joadja Southern Highlands Cabernet Malbec</b>: Dark ruby red with cherries, chocolate mint on the nose. A little too green for my liking. A bit overly drying too. 13/20

Some of our local wines are "unbelievable" aren't they!

I don't have the 1997 in the 'cellar', how would you place it against say, 1994 and 1999?

Jakob,

I have not got into my 99's yet so I can't comment and from memory I have not had one. The 94 is humming away very nicely and in its peak drinking window. They are both rated Excellent but my last TN for the 94 was years ago. I had a bottle recently with Campbell and it showed pretty well but it was one of those nights when I was just enjoying myself rather than concentrating on the wine.

Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Grand cru 1990
A dark ruby colour wine loaded with leather, herb and dark fruit aroma that awaken all senses in the body. The first snif was just in haven. The wine is seamlessly balanced with all the components, the acidity, tannins and fruit sing with great harmony. The tannins comes out first followed by the acidity and finally the fruit. The fruit lingered for eternity. Now I know why people pay top dollors for it. Outstanding

Domaine J.A Ferret Pouilly-Fuisse 1995
This wine exibited light golden colour with summer floral and fruit aroma dominate the nose. I was surprised by the level of the acidity still remain in the wine considering the age. Although the acidity is noticible, but in no mean unbalanced. There is still plently of primary fruit to back it up. It is in its peak drinking windows but will hold for many years to come. Excellent wine.

A couple of slight disappointments to report. The 1998 Yalumba Mawsons Cab-Shiraz-Merlot (Coonawarra despite a developed nose of some interest, was hot and porty, somewhat aggressive yet short on the palate. All of 14.5% alcohol, and showing it all too crudely. My last bottle , and was better a few years ago.

A slightly flabbier wine was the 2001 McWilliams Limited Release Botyrtis Semillon; rich and thick, ripe and sweet, but the candied apricot flavours were all a bit much for the acid, which is very soft and fails to maintain much freshness.

Surely asomeone in the country is still making botrytis wines in the style of the Noble One's of the 80s? I wonder who?

cheers,
Graeme

1998 Domaine Chandon brut Rose Quite rich, soft and cuddly. Drink up

1996 Hardy's Tintara Shiraz Disappointing - where's the fruit gone and seriously lacks definition. About my 4th and by far the least interesting - either its in a hole or some slight TCA scalping, or its rapidly dying.

1983 Domaine Du Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Stunning. Brick red - lots of earth, even some cherries lotsd of complexity - good long palate , not falling apart at all - and 70% grenache. Another lovely wine to salute my daughter's 21st year.

1983 Chateau Palmer, Margaux cork fully saturated - lovely nose but palate a bit flat and slightly oxidised.

2003 Petaluma Riesling, Clare. Average at best
Cheers

paul

Hail to the new King of Pyrenees - move over Mt.Langhi and Dalwhinnie, here is the undisputed heir to the throne - Summerfield Reserve Shiraz 2002. My 1st experince fr this est. dated back to their 1999 Reserve Shiraz having tasted all their subsequent 00/01 vintages I firmly agreed this winery has gone fr strenght to strenght in such a short period of time. Fr the color alone without looking at the appellation, I would have been dumbfounded if someone would have told me this wine came fr the hot area in the south. Knockout nose of violet, sweet satsume plums, the texture is slinky smooth, plush with fine grainny tannins. Balance yet it delivered the boldness with power which even the 'Eagle' fr Dalwhinnie isnt capable of... Lovely blackfruits that came in layers that hits the mid-palate with considerable charm and elegance as well as staying power. No one makes a better wine than Mark Summerfield in Pyrenees, a wine that will make his mentor Drew Noon mighty proud.

Mt Langi is in it's own little micro-climate in the Grampians/Gt Western area, not Pyrenees, although it's not too far as the crow flies...

TQ Brain, got mixed up btwn Pyrenees and Grampians

Martin,

If you wooda read my Victorian Tour Diary.....

Cracked open a Noon's Rose (I assume its a 04 but can't remember - whatever's just been released anyway) to drink at the Newtown Festival. Quite dark for a rose. Wasn't really all that keen I'm afraid. Probably a little more complex and heavier than what I'd normally like in a rose. Slightly bitter finish and more prominant tannins than what I'd prefer.

Really too much like hard work for a summer's day. Might be better with food but I really prefer the Rockford Alicante Bouchet. Fantastic bottle though with sexy silver foil.

Unfortunately back in Oz for a funeral, so took the time to try a few from the cellar while here....

1982 Henschke Mt Edelstone - why don't they make them like this anymore? Great complexity, balance, length. This had a few more years in it. Infinitely better than some of the recent Mt Eds.

1971 Wynns Cabernet - this wine was long gone.

1998 St Hallet Old Block - I liked this more than the last couple I've tried. Still lots of primary Barossa characteristics, looks on track to develop in a similar manner to the 91.

1996 Dom Perignon - great wine, but I drank it too young. Great complexity and length, this is what champagne is all about.

1991 Orlando St Hugo - mint and eucalyptus on the nose and the palate. Drinking right at its peak.

2003 Kalleske Greenock Shiraz - tried this one to see if the hype was justified. A big wine with a long future, but I preferred the 02.

2003 Red Nectar Shiraz - a junior version of the Kalleske Greenock, but slightly hotter finish.

1994 Penfolds St Henri - just starting to get the earthy and leathery characteristics often seen from this label. An excellent effort from a relatively unheralded vintage.

Brief impressions from a recent winemakers dinner in Whistler, Canada, held at the Bearfoot Bistro.

With Iranian Beluga Caviar:

-Mumm Cuvee Napa, DVX 1996. I rarely drink bubbles but this was a great way to start.
-Champagne Devenoge, Gran vin du Millenaire. Just amazing, even for a neophyte. Brioche, followed by fresh citrus, great lenght.

First Course.
With Bluefin tuna.

-Domaine Christian Moreau, Les Clos Grand Cru Chablis 2002. We kept a glass aside to see how it would evolve. Beautifull nutty and citrus aromas and a long finish

-Mission Hill, Chardonnay, Estate,2001. Totally outclassed. Probably ok under different circumstances.

Second Course.
Seared Weathervane Scallop
Braised Veal Cheek & Pine Mushroom Ragout

-Saintsbury Reserve Pinot Noir, Carneros Napa Valley, 1992
A big Pinot with dark cherries, slightly medicinal herbs(anise) et earthy tones with a long powerfull finish.

-Pierre Andre, Corton Grand Cru Les Pougets, Burgundy,1994
Typical undergrowth aromas. Good balance and strucure but a bit too soft , perhaps due to a weak vintage.

Third Course
With Sauteed Milk Fed Sweetbreads, Cauliflower Flan
crispy Wild Boar Bacon, Roasted Shallot Jus

-San Guido Sassicaia, Tuscany 1986
Simply amazing wine. Sets a standard for elegance and balance. Great integration of oak and fruit, tobacco nuances. Very long finish. Did I mention you could drink as much as you wanted?

-Beringer Private Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 1993
Excellent Napa cab, with trademark black currant, cedar and chocolate. A bit short on the finish next to the Sassicaia but very good nevertheless.

Fourth Course
With Confis of Quebec Foie Gras
Fresh Chanterelle Mushroom and Sage Pizza

-Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, 1994
Big nose on this wine, ripe dark fruit but a bit of green, maybe the bell pepper thing. Quite good

-Joseph Phelps Insignia, Napa Valley 1995
Still very young, perhaps poured from magnums. Huge fresh dark current, black berries, cedar, tobacco. Very long finish. Could benefit from a few more years of cellaring

Fifth Course
Snake River Kobe Beef
White Alba Truffles
Bone Marrow Souffle

-Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Chateau de Beaucastel, Hommage a Jacques
Perrin, 1990
WOTN at the table. On the nose, it started with a bit of seasoned lumber aromas, followed by dark berries and spice. An incredibly long, clean finish and a wine that will last for a long time.

-Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz, South australia 1991.
Still a big baby. Strong minty aromas from the onset, then revealing huge black fruit. Second in lenght to the Chateau de Beaucastel. God I love these wines.

-Penfold's Grange South Australia, 1991
The only bottle of the line up in my refrigerated unit and my fourth Grange experience (1982-90-96). Beautifull, intense aromas of just about anything you'd want in a wine, huge but silky mouthfeel and long finish but not as prolonged as the Beaucastel or the Henschke.



With Cheese and then dessert.

Ausbruch Moenchhoh, Austria, 1991 Gold, amber , beautifull. By now
this cowboy startin to feel perty good.

-Quinta do Crasto, 1995
-Dom Perignon 1996
-Grand Marnier, Cuvee Speciale Cent Cinquantenaire

...and then, of course, more Grange.

Cheers,

Francois

Sorry, last post was mine.

Raisin

Matur-"ish" Beaucastel versus HofG. Where do they rate in the complexity stakes?

Mike Hawkins wrote:1994 Penfolds St Henri - just starting to get the earthy and leathery characteristics often seen from this label. An excellent effort from a relatively unheralded vintage.

You're kidding, right ???? 1994 is a great vintage. I thought this was common knowledge: if not, I would formally like to "herald" it ...

What I DO find interesting is that St Henri is an excellent drink from GENUINELY unheralded vintages (like 87, 89, 93, 95, 97)

Fatty,

I agree with you, St H is a terrific wine in poor vintages - especially once it gets to 10 years old.

JamieBahrain wrote:Raisin

Matur-"ish" Beaucastel versus HofG. Where do they rate in the complexity stakes?

Hi Jamie,

I think both wines rate highly. The Beaucastel is definitely more harmonious at this stage, with a full body but very clean backbone of tannin and exceptional lenght. I think it's entering it's drinking window now whereas the HoG needs a few more years before all those flavors integrate with each other.

There were many unknown variable at the tasting, such as bottle size (I think most were poured from magnums) and aeration time. I am sure they play a big role in the ageing/progression of these wines and how they were perceived that evening.

Cheers,

Francois

Fatboy,

No way was 94 a "great" vintage across the board. Certainly some of the newspaper notes I've kept (I'm a geek) detailing wines relased in 96/97/98 indicate it was not in the same class as the 90 & 91 vintages. Many vintage charts also indicate the same. Also, some of the 94s are beginning to fall over, yet 86,90,91 as "great" vintages, are going strongly.

That being said, it was bordering on "great" for Penfolds - Grange and Bin 389 were in my opinion right up with some of the greatest vintages. Nevertheless, I accept your "heralding" !

I too like the ST Henri's from lesser vintages, as they are apprachable far younger - 93 springs to mind.

Mike
(another fatboy)

Mike Hawkins wrote:Fatboy,

No way was 94 a "great" vintage across the board. Certainly some of the newspaper notes I've kept (I'm a geek) detailing wines relased in 96/97/98 indicate it was not in the same class as the 90 & 91 vintages. Many vintage charts also indicate the same. Also, some of the 94s are beginning to fall over, yet 86,90,91 as "great" vintages, are going strongly.

That being said, it was bordering on "great" for Penfolds - Grange and Bin 389 were in my opinion right up with some of the greatest vintages. Nevertheless, I accept your "heralding" !

I too like the ST Henri's from lesser vintages, as they are apprachable far younger - 93 springs to mind.

Mike
(another fatboy)

Hmmm, I've had so many good '94's I can't even list them ...

... but I'll try
Balmoral Syrah, (better than 96 and 98 which are too oaky now)
John Riddoch (sure it needs about 3 days decanting but if you're patient)
Bin 389 (as you mention, similar decanting required)
Dalwhinnie Shiraz (nice wine, drinking well now)
Craiglee Shiraz (a cracker, everyone goes on about 90, 97 and 00, but get your lips around this)
Petaluma Coonawarra (again, decant for ages)
Eileen Hardy Shiraz (at its peak now)
Cullen Cab Merlot (not quite 95, but still very good)
Old Block Shiraz
... list goes on, that's just off the top of my head

I've actually found the reverse in terms of them falling apart. The cabs or cab blends in particular will live a very long time yet.

I really like '97 St Henri now. You used to be able to pick it up for $35 too because no-one was buying it ...

'94 was a stellar for Henschke's Reds. Stephen called it "the year of the black ferment" Their best vintage ever!
'94 Grange was fantastic, ranked 2nd after the 98 for the decade IMHO.
'94 E&E B.Pepper was 2nd fave after their outstanding '96. Life never the same again after Colin Glaetzer.
'94 Leasingham C.Clare Sparkling was the best Sparkling I had.

Anonymous wrote:'94 Leasingham C.Clare Sparkling was the best Sparkling I had.

Not to mention '94 Seppelt Show Sparkling Shiraz ... (I've not had many SS's though to compare)

Anonymous wrote:

Mike Hawkins wrote:Fatboy,



I really like '97 St Henri now. You used to be able to pick it up for $35 too because no-one was buying it ...

I agree, had a bottle of the "lesser rated" '95 St.H, cheaply, & it was great. Still got a couple of magnums that i'll crack in a year or so.

regards
Christo

Anonymous wrote:'94 was a stellar for Henschke's Reds. Stephen called it "the year of the black ferment" Their best vintage ever!

Stephen recently said that 2004 is even blacker and better!
Adair

Note: Prue is actually the colour student/expert.