The Auswine Forum

What a week of weather. One day the air was on cooling, the next it was on heating. And the rain was a very welcome addition, the first real rain we have received in months in my area.

I have had a week of OK wine but nothing particularly exciting. The Lindemans 1996 Limestone Ridge I had last night is at its peak and drinking well but should hold for years. A very credible and enjoyable wine that is well balanced and constructed.

I also had a Penfold 1996 Bin 389 during the week. Obvious but manageable VA, mushroom/forest floor coffee flavoured oak, mocha, star anise, milk chocolate and menthol show this wine should have some real complexity. Tannins are still noticeable but are integrating well and the wine is well balanced which indicates my last bottle was not as good as it should have been. The bouquet didn't lie, as expected, the palate complexity is way above average and is supported by a long drying finish. Rated as Excellent, this wine still has its best years ahead and has not entered its peak drinking window yet.

Now what have you good people been drinking?

" You've seen it in the cabernet , you've seen it in the hermitage....the magic of the famous terra rossa soil has brought out greatness in an Australian Pinot.....The '86 was a winner.....The '87 is even better. Start collecting now....this will assuredly become the Grange of Australian pinot noir. " reference : Wynns Coonawarra Estate full colour back cover ad from the July 1990 Australian Gourmet Traveller magazine for their Pinot Noir. There's nothing like the passing of time to let the smoke clear and the high bullshit quotient of advertising be revealed !

1995 Prince Albert Geelong Pinot Noir : quite enjoyable , sweet teeming nose and ripe fruit , fully mature. Also had a few Australian Pinots recently from the 1990's and to varying degrees they had a very sweet nose and often palate as well compared to Burgundy. That's not a criticism in and of itself but something I certainly noticed.

1995 Niquet-Jayer Echezeaux Du Dessus Grand Cru : although certainly not lacking fruit as such this was lovely and " calm " with a nice beetroot and clean fresh earthiness. Lovely clean finish. A definite contrast to recent local Pinots.

1990 Delatite Devils River Central Victoria Red Blend : Brick red. Nice worthwhile secondary cabernet characters. Fully mature - lovely softened tannins.

1997 Chain of Ponds Amadeus Cabernet Sauvignon , Adel Hills : another lovely Adel Hills Cabernet from 1997 for those of us who dont mind an unfashionable " cool climate " Cabernet - I also recall '97 Nepenthe Fugue , '97 Ashton Hills Obliqua in recent times for example. Genuine sweet tobacco and " lead pencil " Bordeaux like characters. A very pleasant surprise as I was not expecting such high quality. Has best of both worlds at the moment - lovely lush fruit plus complex secondary characters.

A few for the week...

'02 Grosset Gaia.
Intense fruit on the middle palate, obviously a tad closed everywhere else at the moment, but hints of excellence there.
'01 Scorpo Chardonnay.
Excellent Mornington Peninsula chardonnay along a flinty mineral line that is a refreshing change. Drinking well.
'00 Dromana Estate Reserve Pinot.
In the slightly lighter style typical of the label, but slowly opened up with breathing to be quite good with an unexpected richness and length. Another year should see it at it's best.
"02 Yabby Creek Chardonnay.
Drinking well, albiet a tad developed for it's youth. Fruit driven style.
'02 Waipara "Blue Rocks" Pinot.
Certainly has developed since my last bottle six months ago, opened up well with some breathing, very smooth and clean, good length.
'04 Crittenden "Pinocchio" Rosatto.
Made very much in the vien of his well received "i" Range '02 Rosatto, a fuller richer style, that will be well liked by most. Good.
"04 Plunkett Guwertztraminer.
Good crips style, made dry, but wirh good fruit and length.
'03 Brown Brothers Barbera.
Good savoury\ sweaty nose followed by a plum fruit palate with drying tannins. As with all Italian varieties, went better with food, subsiding the tannins.

Rory

Saltram Mamre Brook Cab Sav 2002 - It's amazing how Saltram can make a wine of this standard for under $20! Best value Cabernet I've had all year, or probably ever! 95/100 points.

Bill

Tasted earlier in the week before the plague really hit me.

Killikanoon Covenant Shiraz 2001.

I received this particular bottle as part of a Thabilk lucky dip dozen and as it was a single in the cellar decided to try it now before it was to late to buy more if I liked it. Great marketing plan if your wine is up to it.

Inky to the rim, impenetrable in the depths. Didn't need to nose the glass as the fruit laden scent had leapt out of the bottle and pervaded the room. Violets, cracked pepper and spice. Sensational, I was sold, and I was yet to taste it.

Ripe black berrys, black juicy plums, black pepper and soft silky drying tannins with a long sweet finish. Complex, seamless, and where the hell do I get some more.

The rest of the week has been dry, unless you include the odd Jager-bomber. To help with the cough and cold and ensuing entropy of course.

Hello everybody,

I'm a bit late posting due to a monster weekend.

Yesterday

Richmond Grove 1998 Watervale Riesling - toast and kero nose over a classy limey/citrus base. Less developed palate of excellent intensity with good acid balance. Noice length. Top value for $10 a bottle at release. Highly Recommended

McWilliams 1996 Lovedale Semillon - bright lemon appearance, hessian, nuts and some citrus on the nose. Tight, lemony palate, good acid, reasonable finish. The hessian and slightly stripped palate (compared to my last bottle and rated Outtstanding) suggested a TCA problem. Bloody corks! Not rated

Yarra Valley Hills 2003 Chardonnay - bright straw/green, lovely primary nose of peach, melon, fig and subtle, spicy oak and just a touch malo. Tight punchy palate with good fruit, well-judged oak, not overworked, tight crisp finish of some length. Should last quite well. Recommended

Yerring Station 2000 Reserve Cabernet - brilliant bright dark ruby with purple flashes. Big, ballsy nose of sweet, spicy vanillin oak, copious quantaties of ripe black fruits, although not particurlarly varietal. Very impressive youthful palate with a creamy mouthfeel, buckloads of extract, substantial oak input, bright acidity and a powerful yet appropriate tannin structure. Mainly plummy fruit. Excellent finish. Hard to fault. Long cellaring potential. Excellent/Outstanding

Coldstream Hills 2001 Reserve Cabernet - Sorry to be awfully vague on this one - had run out of steam by this time - solid wine with more varietal character than the Yerring Station, slightly marred by tarry oak and tea-like tannins. Probably just needs more time. Highly Recommended

Saturday night

Piper-Heidsick N/V - this wine always benefits from a cuppla years on cork developing classic brioche and yeast autolysis characters on both nose and palate. Light to medium bodied with reasonable length. Recommended

Trimbach Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive 1990 - amazingly youthful with perplexing exotic fruit and spicy botrytis characters. Amazing extract level, great acid cut, fantastic length. Sensational

Tyrrell's Vat 47 Chardonnay 1992 - from another batch purchased from auction recently. Developed colour, oxidative characters mar an otherwise agreeable aged example. Provenance the problem here methinks.

G. Roumier Morey-St.-Denis Clos de Bussiere Premier Cru 1996 - Lester Jesberg noted muted fruit from the effects of brettanomyces. A tart, high acid, tannic wine with insufficient fruit for counterbalance to my liking. Acceptable - Dan Clarke liked it more.

Chateau Belair St. Emillon 1989 - aged colour, touch of barnyard, slightly cooked plummy fruit with some aged leather and rounded, appealing mouthfeel. Only light to medium body. Moderate length. Fully mature and in urgent need of being drunk. Agreeable

Coriole Lloyd Reserve Shiraz 1990 - Deep solid colour, big US oak first with tarry plum fruit coming up in the glass more and more as it breathed. Still got plenty of juice in the tank. Medium to full bodied with earthy blackberry and plum fruit well balanced to coconut American oak. Plenty of powdery tannin to carry the wine for many years. Highly Recommended/Excellent. Thanks Frase.

Wynn's Coonawarra John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 1982 - without a doubt the greatest JR made. Sublime blend of weedy, curranty fruit, mint, herbs, marvellously judged oak input and complex secondary bottle development, fine acid, a Bordeaux-like sweet corn/earthy character. This bottle was far more savoury and compelling than the overtly sweet, soft, cassis dominated (but still extremely enjoyable) bottle I had a year or so ago. Outstanding

Grosset Gaia Cabernet (blend) 1994 - only my second bottle of this wine and what a stunning, youthful example this is. Impeccably balanced, this reveals all the components to improve for another 10 years and last for themsome. Excellent/Outstanding

Seppelt Original Sparkling Shiraz 1998 - the most amazing QPR. Classic wine with long aging potential. Excellent FWII

Coriole Lloyd's Reserve Shiraz 1991 - a bit hazy on this one. I can recall this was of a simlar standard to the excellent 1990, just more youthful and tarry with more pronounced tannins. Again needs time. Frase, again.

Ch. Suduiraut 1988 - a gorgeous, unctious, structured example of Sauternes with multidimensional nuances found in the bouquet and brilliant, tight citrus rind, apple, almond, nougat and cumquat flavours, terrific oak handling and indelible, integrated acidity. Drinking beautifully now but will last for another 10-15 years.

Moet and Chandon N/V (en magnum) - big, broad but likeable yeasty nose with similarly impressive mouthfilling, complex flavours. Impressive length and a great way to finish off the night. Highly Recommended.

Friday Night

Chateau Talbot 1983

Fully mature, this appealing red wine displays a garnet core with substantial bricking and amber towards the edges, a classic Bordeaux nose of sandalwood, earth, aged leather and currants. Of medium-body, wonderful purity, low-acidity and all-but-melted fine tannin, this Excellent drop reveals a plush mouthfeel, similarly nuanced and concentrated as per the nose followed by a soft, long, satisfying finish. The seamless integration of all components was a standout feature. The capacity for this region's wines to produce such elegance, vitality yet age so gracefully never ceases to amaze me. Drink now or over the next few years.

With hindsight and another 2 hours breathing this gets better and better - gaining in richness, complexity - more thrilling to sniff and drink. Noice one. Upgraded the rating a notch.

Giaconda 1992 Cabernet

A blend of Cabernet (60%), Merlot (30%) and Cabernet Franc (10%)

Quite a healthy medium ruby with some amber in the rim. Touch of dimethyl sulphide (DMS) on the nose at first. This intense cassis/green bean-accentuated character blew off with little airing to reveal a textbook (as in local) leafy cool climate Cabernet bouquet of capsicum, spice box, herbs, forest floor, blackcurrant and savoury oak. Sweet blackcurrant/plummy fruit meshes well with a healthy dose of cedar, savoury oak nicely in balance, decent acidity and refined fine-grained, ripe tannins on a palate of good breadth and exemplary length. Probably on par with the '83 Talbot (tried earlier this evening and rated Excellent) for quality. If anything, this needs time to fully resolve and soften. Each way bet on whether this will be as good at 21 years of age, though.

11.10 p.m. This improves with an earthy/briary/weedy complexity now building on the nose and a more unctious texture on the palate. Top stuff! RK should be extremely happy with this wine and is to be congratulated. World-class Cabernet blend.

And a few from earlier in the week

Leasingham Classic Clare Sparkling Shiraz 1992

As is well known in wine folklore, one should always remove corks from sparkling wine with great care. In tonight's case, a relatively tight closure opened with hardly a whimper. Upon removal of the cork, the froth and bubble were nowhere to be seen. Fortunately, the remnants were still quite drinkable, albeit suffering some minor brettanomyces affectation. I've yet to try a "flat" ancient Seppelt Great Western Sparkling Burgundy, although I recall tasting notes from James Halliday and others where the particular wine had lost most/all of its effervescence. So here goes...

Dark red in colour lightening to brick red, then amber in the very outer edges. Sweet blackberry fruit at first, with earthy/cedary/vanillin nuances gradually intruding and, finally, a hint of chicken coop and bandaid at the very death. The palate reveals a prickly sensation suggestive of the last vestiges of the secondary bottle fermentation, giving the wine a degree of lift and focus in the mouth. Earthy, sweet blackberry fruit coupled with a touch of horsiness and good balancing acidity on a surprisingly long, substantial finish. A most satisfying, if slightly perverse outcome to what I was expecting.

Crabtree 1998 Watervale Riesling

Glowing lemon gold. Attractive nose of over-ripe lime, honey and almost something like honeysuckle with an oily/petrol-like presence in the background. Crunchy high calibre palate, tightly structured with almost steely lime, lemon and Granny Smith apple fruit with a wonderful, finely meshed acid cut; terrific length with just a trace of oiliness in the finish. Excellent wine. Drink now to 2010.

Gotta give the vital organs a break this week before lanolin man arrives in town - go the rooster.

Not too much inspiration this week.

2001 SEPPELT Salinger

I never really liked this sparkling wine style but the 2001 is quite nice and succesful. Good balance and fine finish. AU $22

2004 SEPPELT Coborra Pinot Gris

From the Drumborg vineyard. Full, dry but freshly fruity and of character. Very good first effort. AU $20

2003 SEPPELT Marsanne-Roussanne

A not so succesful first effort from the Glenlofty vineyard. Light and creamy with unusual characters. Lacking zest and life. AU $21

2001 CAPEL VALE Whispering Hill Single Vineyard Riesling

Stunningly beautiful Alsatian nose. The middle weight palate and a dry finish doesn't deliver in the end. The 2002 was better. AU $22

1997 MOUNT PLEASANT Rosehill Shiraz

Tasted stunning on release, fantastic at cellar door in January but not this weekend. Dry, savoury, lacking weight with a slightly bitter finish. Bottle variation? AU $28

Cheers,
Attila

2000 Warraroong Shiraz (Hunter Valley) shared with a mate over a burger with the lot while watching the Bulldogs reign supreme over the Chooks. That's the annual prime-time game of League that is shown live to air in sunny Victoria!

This wine was purchased at 'fire sale' prices from cellar door during the Lovedale Long Lunch weekend in 2002. The wine was being flogged off fairly cheaply due to the fact that the owners were re-locating to 1 Broke Road and (apparently) due to licensing laws could not take their wares with them.

It was not of the rich, dark colour I have come to expect from Hunter Shiraz and nor did it have the body I was expecting. It was an acceptable drink and managed to cut it's way through the oil that is synonomous with a burger with the lot from any local take away!

While I'm here I thought I might as well let you all know that the 2000 Wild Duck Creek Alan's Cabernet Vat 1 and 1999 Rockford Rod and Spur (Cabernet/Shiraz) are doing wonderfully well. While in Sydney recently I had the pleasure of sharing these wines with old friends.

Hello

Detailed notes to follow hopefully from Mark Wickman, but Friday evening was our inaugural Pinot and Duck evening.

At Adelaide's outstanding (but ridiculously under priced) Ying Chow restaurant, $1.50 pb corkage! we enjoyed a range of Pinots with Duck dishes, Aniseed Tea Smoked Duck, Peking Duck etc

To start, 2004 Mr Riggs Riesling, 2004 Leo Buring Riesling

Followed with, in no particular order, 2002 Mt Difficulty Pinot Noir, 1999 Bannockburn Pinot Noir, Port Phillip Pinot, Felton Road Pinot and many more I don't recall!

Great night, great food, great company and great wine.

Those who attended, add some notes or comments, 707 was there, plus a few perennial lurkers.

FWIW once the initial stink below off, the 1999 Bannockburn was a stunner and my WOTN.

The Mr Riggs with its high acid but natural sweetness also sang with the slightly spicy food.

98 Kaesler Stonehorse Shiraz
Good wine, with rich fruit, and old oak in the background. Was looking a bit tired the second night.

02 Charles Cimicky Signature Shiraz
Initial impressions were great, then the oak came up and overwhelmed the fruit. ( I hate young big wines ) On the third day, it had settled down, and I could enjoy it. Will be good in around 6 years +. Rated 92

02 Charles Cimicky Reserve Shiraz
Oak was more in balance, and probably was more French than American.
Great fruit, and was a bit leaner on the palate to the Signature. Alcohol was 14.5%. Signature was 15%. Was all drunk on the second night.
This wine will probable sell for around $50, when its released late October.
Rated 94+

95 Woodstocks Stocks.
Last bottle. Surprisingly, rather nice. Leaner palate, being an average year, but everything there, pretty well in balance (This is better than the 96)

97 Greenock Creek 7 Acre Shiraz.
This is the second bottle in the Greenock Creek taste a thon!
Opened up really tight, and was still tight at the end of the night. Fruit was varietal, and has some layered characteristics, with oak in balance. It was from an average year, but its a better than an average wine. I think it needs at least another 5 years.

02 Grant Burge Filsell Shiraz.
Been reading about this. Great wine. In balance. Not too much oak.
Good fruit, and will go the distance. Rated 94

1998 Oliver's Taranga Shiraz - This wine has been a chameleon over the years, alternating between a powerful blackberry laden wine at first, and an elegant, reserved wine of cassis, blueberries and earth with subtle aromatics and a smooth texture.

Now, drinking this 1 1/2 years after the last bottle, it is really firing on all cylinders.

Dark black purple with little hint of reddening. A powerful nose of licorice, blackberries, dark chocolate, spice and earth. Dense black fruits flood the palate and fill every part of the olfactories. Licorice, blackberries, blueberries, dark chocolate, pepper and other spices are evident. There is a minute long finish of blackberries, licorice and spices. I have to use a Parker phrase here, but this is a winemaking tour-de-force. Rated as Excellent, almost Outstanding.

A few since I last posted.

Wynns Cabernet Sauvignon 87: Got a massive whiff of blackcurrant from the decanter. Lots of blackcurrant and mint on the palate. Highly Recommended. Drink soon.
Penfolds Bin 622 (I think) Cab Shiraz 78: Surprisingly youthful, but probably near the end of its days. Recommended.
Fettler's Rest Shiraz 99: Highly Recommended.
Petaluma Chardonnay 97: Highly Recommended.
Bin Ends Trevor Mast Shiraz 00: Cleanskin from Woolworths outlets. Rhon ey. Recommended. Good value. Not as good the next day.
Mundrakoona Chardonnay 03: When I got this at the CD, I thought it would just be suitable for early drinking. Wrong - this could improve a bit with age. Recommended.

Kieran

For drinking rather than proper tasting so imnotepressions mostonly

1998 Tim Adams Shiraz - Bottle variation city. Too much acid on this one, but otherwise itself. Good.

2000 Greenock Creek Apricot Block Shiraz - Worth a try for something a little different, always enjoyable. Very good.

1993 Wolf Blass Brown Label Shiraz - Deep black red, though no purple hues and some bricking on the rim. Confusing colouration. Toasty, vanilla oak, blue and red berries, black pepper, licorice strap. Perfectly integrated tannins, still good palate weight, but going backwards since the last one 18 months ago. Drink now or 12 months ago, if you have a suitably equipped DeLorean. Good/Very Good.

2002 Saint Hallett Blackwell Shiraz - Yep, we're all in agreement here I think. Very Good isn't being generous. Will improve. Value 4/5.

2000 Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz - You could pick this blind; very typically St. Henri. Quite open and approacable already, it's a tough call as to how long this will last. Highly enjoyable, it rates a Very Good/Excellent. Value 3/5.

1989 Chateau La Lagune - Very deep, vibrant brick red; quite dumb still after 2 hours breathing, cigarbox, leather, black berries, muted cherry. Impeccable balance, very good length and surprising fruit weight on the palate, fine but obvious tannins. 10 years in front of it, at least half of those on the improve. Very Good/Excellent.

1998 Clarendon Hills Sandown Cabernet Sauvignon - Cracked after reading KMP/Mike's Liandra note and commentary, this followed the La Lagune. Frankly, it trounced it; this hasn't moved in a year. Dense, vibrant purple; beautiful colour, very youthful. Quite closed nose also, though wonderfully perfumed after a solid swirl; some floral notes, blue and black berries, vanilla, melted dark chocolate. Excellent mouthfeel, very fine tannins, great palate weight and very long finish, delivering on the aromatic promise. Will improve in and for years and last who knows how long; should be stunning in time. An Excellent rating is probably conservative.

Happy Drinking

Jakob