TNs: 1981 Birthday wines (Taiitinger, Moss Wood, St Henri)
Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2004 9:50 am
Dinner with one of my best friends to celebrate her 23rd birthday at SydneyÂ’s Longrain Restaurant on 9 September 2004. The wines were all from my cellar and impeccably stored. This is a Thai restaurant but I was there for the wines, she was there for the food (her favourite restaurant). The dishes we shared were:
- Lightly grilled scallops with red chilli, lime juice and deep fried eschalots
- Betel leaves topped with smoked trout, garlic, galangal and trout roe
- Eggnets with pork, prawns, peanuts, bean sprouts and sweet vinegar
- Salt and pepper baby Barramundi with sweet chilli and soy
- Green curry of vegetables with tofu and Thai basil
1981 Taittinger Collection Champagne (Arman)
What a beautiful bottle that drew stares and pointing at the restaurant from other patrons.
f
To be honest I was really worried about this one given the variable vintage (although the Krug and Taittinger Comtes des Champagne Blanc de Blanc and stunning Lanson 225th Anniversary Cuvée are all successes) and the fact that the Collection is usually the standard vintage cuvee wrapped up in this great shell. From the website:
The 1981 harvest was one of the smallest in the history of Champagne since the end of the Second World War (92 million bottles). Despite its small yield, the 1981 harvest has an excellent reputation as regards quality. The gathering was preceded by a sunny August and a relatively rainy September. This gave both the white and red grapes a high alcohol level. The Taittinger Collection Brut 1981 was produced from 40% white Chardonnay grapes from the great vineyards of the Côte des Blancs and 60% Pinot Noir harvested from the great vineyards of the Montagne de Reims (Ambonnay, Bouzy, Hautvillers, Mailly).
An abundance of bubbles over the 90 minutes we drank this. Very good mousse (hers was buzzing, mine more reticent). Deep gold colour although difficult to tell in a dimly lit “mood†restaurant. Bouquet is simply lovely. I can breathe easy now. Still fresh with complex flavours of brioche, toast, mushrooms and that mildly sweet honeyish development that I crave so much in aged champagne. On the palate, the wine’s distinction shines through. Gorgeous structure, medium-bodied with honey aromas that are beguiling, and crisp acidity on the finish. The only thing this fine champagne lacked was a killer length but still an excellent wine. Much, much better than expected.
93 / 100
1981 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River)
Decanted for one hour while we drank the champers. The sommelier came back with a smile, stating “this smells fabulous!Ââ€Â. Mid red with very minor brown hues. Excellent clarity and colour (from what I could tell). Lovely sweet blackberries, violets (florals) and herbs (green but not capsicum). Superb. The palate is no longer the tannin powerhouse this wine once was. Now well balanced with admirable structure. Bounds of primary fruit remain with the secondary coffee, liquorice, chocolate mudcake and garden herbs flavours, augmenting a very clean finish. Excellent condition (the level of fill was well into the neck). It took four hours (yes, a pretty long dinner – they had to kick us out in the end!) before the fruit ameliorated. Perhaps finishes a tad short but the wine has plenty of life left in it and there is no hurry to drink up. Has aged very well. The sommelier (who is one of SydneyÂ’s best) had two glasses he was so impressed. A major surprise considering where this wine was 5 years ago – mostly tannin. IÂ’m glad I still have some of this, and I would rate it one of the best Moss WoodÂ’s of the 1980s after the fine 1985 (but better IMO than the 83, 86, 87).
92 / 100
1981 Penfolds St Henri Shiraz
Mid to light red with overt brown edges. Faint glimmer of sweet fruits on the nose but faded after 30 minutes. Not overly generous. The palate is good, considering its age but the wine is clearly past its best and the fruit is fading. The fruit that is there offers little in the way of distinction. The length is moderate and oneÂ’s final indelible impression is of a tannin carcass that overpowers the wine. This wine was a little better when last tasted in 2002.
84 / 100
- Lightly grilled scallops with red chilli, lime juice and deep fried eschalots
- Betel leaves topped with smoked trout, garlic, galangal and trout roe
- Eggnets with pork, prawns, peanuts, bean sprouts and sweet vinegar
- Salt and pepper baby Barramundi with sweet chilli and soy
- Green curry of vegetables with tofu and Thai basil
1981 Taittinger Collection Champagne (Arman)
What a beautiful bottle that drew stares and pointing at the restaurant from other patrons.
f
To be honest I was really worried about this one given the variable vintage (although the Krug and Taittinger Comtes des Champagne Blanc de Blanc and stunning Lanson 225th Anniversary Cuvée are all successes) and the fact that the Collection is usually the standard vintage cuvee wrapped up in this great shell. From the website:
The 1981 harvest was one of the smallest in the history of Champagne since the end of the Second World War (92 million bottles). Despite its small yield, the 1981 harvest has an excellent reputation as regards quality. The gathering was preceded by a sunny August and a relatively rainy September. This gave both the white and red grapes a high alcohol level. The Taittinger Collection Brut 1981 was produced from 40% white Chardonnay grapes from the great vineyards of the Côte des Blancs and 60% Pinot Noir harvested from the great vineyards of the Montagne de Reims (Ambonnay, Bouzy, Hautvillers, Mailly).
An abundance of bubbles over the 90 minutes we drank this. Very good mousse (hers was buzzing, mine more reticent). Deep gold colour although difficult to tell in a dimly lit “mood†restaurant. Bouquet is simply lovely. I can breathe easy now. Still fresh with complex flavours of brioche, toast, mushrooms and that mildly sweet honeyish development that I crave so much in aged champagne. On the palate, the wine’s distinction shines through. Gorgeous structure, medium-bodied with honey aromas that are beguiling, and crisp acidity on the finish. The only thing this fine champagne lacked was a killer length but still an excellent wine. Much, much better than expected.
93 / 100
1981 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River)
Decanted for one hour while we drank the champers. The sommelier came back with a smile, stating “this smells fabulous!Ââ€Â. Mid red with very minor brown hues. Excellent clarity and colour (from what I could tell). Lovely sweet blackberries, violets (florals) and herbs (green but not capsicum). Superb. The palate is no longer the tannin powerhouse this wine once was. Now well balanced with admirable structure. Bounds of primary fruit remain with the secondary coffee, liquorice, chocolate mudcake and garden herbs flavours, augmenting a very clean finish. Excellent condition (the level of fill was well into the neck). It took four hours (yes, a pretty long dinner – they had to kick us out in the end!) before the fruit ameliorated. Perhaps finishes a tad short but the wine has plenty of life left in it and there is no hurry to drink up. Has aged very well. The sommelier (who is one of SydneyÂ’s best) had two glasses he was so impressed. A major surprise considering where this wine was 5 years ago – mostly tannin. IÂ’m glad I still have some of this, and I would rate it one of the best Moss WoodÂ’s of the 1980s after the fine 1985 (but better IMO than the 83, 86, 87).
92 / 100
1981 Penfolds St Henri Shiraz
Mid to light red with overt brown edges. Faint glimmer of sweet fruits on the nose but faded after 30 minutes. Not overly generous. The palate is good, considering its age but the wine is clearly past its best and the fruit is fading. The fruit that is there offers little in the way of distinction. The length is moderate and oneÂ’s final indelible impression is of a tannin carcass that overpowers the wine. This wine was a little better when last tasted in 2002.
84 / 100