TNS: Rockford Cellar Door – Wednesday 18th August 2004
Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2004 11:28 am
Question: You are in Adelaide. It is 3pm. Your plane leaves at 6:30pm. What do you do?
Answer: Drive very fast to Rockford of course!
NV Rockford RD Pinot Chardonnay (Sparkling White)
Very well made but unfortunately the wine is too under-fruited. 12 months ago I thought this wine might improve but I admit to being disappointed. Fine, balanced, long palate of near nothingness! I have one in the cellar and am not sure whether to drink it or let it go as an experiment.
2001 Rockford Eden Valley Riesling
Mouthfilling and balanced limey wine with quite deep florals. Heaps of fine acidity taking the wine to all areas of the palate. No holes. Impressive wine. Rated Excellent, this is a beautiful wine getting better with age.
2001 Rockford Local Growers Semillon
Broad, lanolin and lemon fruit than dies on the middle and back palate. A little age might help but this wine will never be great.
2004 Rockford White Frontignac
Obvious sweet style that does not cloy and contains powerful fruit and delightful acid. Great mouthfeel and length. I appreciate this wine but personally do not enjoy the style. Many, many others will and I rate it Highly Recommended.
2004 Rockford Alicante Bouchet
As soon as I tasted this wine, I remarked to Ian that this wine is much better than the 2003 and even better than the 2002. Rockford have finally reversed their tendency over the past few years to leave more and more residual sugar in this wine, which took away from the great and unique pleasure that the Rockford Alicante Bouchet can provide. This wine is gorgeous and fully allows the bright, ripe cherry and strawberry flavours to truly shine on long and seamless palate. If you want a rose wine, I do not think you can buy better that this wine. Rated Excellent.
1999 Rockford Moppa Springs Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro
Harmonious combination of savoury and berry fruit on a light/medium bodied palate. The wine has great length from fine integrated acid and very fine tannin. The palate is seamless but the wine lacks flavour depth and is a bit simple. Although it should improve in the short term, it probably will not get any better than Recommended.
2001 Rockford Rod & Spur Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz
This has integrated very well since release. Seamless ripe and long flavours on a medium weighted palate, with a hint of coolness and savouriness. Fine unobtrusive tannins in perfect balance with the fruit and fine acid. Rated Recommended/Highly Recommended, it will continue to build over the next 3-4 years.
1998 Rockford Cabernet Sauvignon
Full, long yet delicate wine leading with savoury characters and sweet mulberries, along with sweet earth and dust. Fine powdery and dusty tannins. Still a few years from its peak. Rated Highly Recommended/Excellent. Beautiful wine.
2002 Rockford Cabernet Sauvignon (Rifle Range, I presume)
Ladies and Gentlemen, save up now and make sure you get some of this when released. I was lucky enough the taste a sample of the final blend and I was extremely impressed. I even had a second glass despite my time limitations.
The coolness of the vintage has enabled Rockford to produce a great Cabernet Sauvignon. Great intensity of rich and ripe blackberry, dark cherry and mulberry flavours controlled awesomely by a smooth, tight structure. The oak has been used perfectly, needing to be searched to be found, providing depth and harmonious sweet spice. The tannins are ripe, fine and sensationally integrated, providing a cushion for the flavours to flow over a very long palate. Very classy. Rated Outstanding, this wine would be the flagship of most other wineries and, as I have not tasted the Basket Press, could be its top 2002 wineÂ… although it wets my palate for the 2002 Basket Press
2001 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz
The cellar door sold out of this wine months ago but an Adelaide restaurant had recently returned this bottle as being faulty. It was the joke of the cellar door. This wine was truly gorgeous.
Smooth, long and powerful. Very ripe fruit but totally melted with savouriness. Like the 2001 Rod & Spur, this wine has integrated faster than I expected (I last tasted it on the first weekend of October 2003) but it will age well but not be one of the longest lived Basket Presses. The wineÂ’s flavour depth is enhanced greatly by a big, ripe and silky structure. Wine does not get much more enjoyable than this. Rated Excellent/Outstanding.
1998 Rockford SVS Flaxman Valley Shiraz
Sweet, ripe, powerful fruit, some of it in the dark red spectrum as well as black, with cool pepper and spice aspects. French oak is well in the background on nose and palate, excellently handled. There is currently a lack of weight in the mid-palate, compared to the front, but this should build with time. The finish is long, assisted by prominent fine tannins with a dusty quality. The wine is well-balanced and carries great finesse, even with its very full-bodied frame. Rated Excellent, I look forward to drinking this wine in 7 years.
1998 Rockford SVS Pressings Shiraz – This wine was created deliberately to highlight the ability of basket pressing to provide softness to a wine. It certainly achieves its purpose. I recently tasted the last few vintages of Kaesler Old Bastard. This wine is in a similar style but totally eclipses them in quality, particularly due to the phenomenal depth and softness this wine displays. This wine is massive, soft and seamless. I was slightly concerned about the hit of shaving cream from American oak on the nose that rose above the massive, ripe dark fruits (the wine was oaked for 30+ months), but all concerned were alleviated on the palate. The oak is totally swallowed by the intense, deep dark fruits which are delivered to all areas of the palate by very ripe, soft tannins. Great length. No holes. Despite the wine’s size and weight, it is not flabby or cloying. Rated Outstanding, this wine will age well and gain greater complexity.
1998 Rockford Vintage Port – Actually quite similar in many ways to the Pressings. A great reflection on the vintage. Huge, soft, sumptuous, multi-layered, long and hedonistic with a delightful clean spirit in total balance with the wine. A dark fruit driven wine in which to enjoy and get lost. Although there is a little cloying aspect to the wine, there is definitely enough structure and balance that will allow me to enjoy my second and third glasses. Even at $60 per bottle, I did not hesitate in buying a 3-pack. Rated Excellent/Outstanding.
Lastly, a 1998 Rockford SVS Hoffmann Shiraz has been made but, unlike the 1997 Hoffmann that was never meant to be released in Australia but which was obtained by some Stonewallers , all of the wines were sent to RobertÂ’s old mate in Switzerland. This was done due to RobertÂ’s Swiss mate originally suggesting and encouraging Robert to make single vineyard wines, and as an attempt to stop the wine collector mentality that is so detrimental to wine lovers who appreciate great wine. So, is anyone going to Switzerland?
Kind regards,
Adair
Answer: Drive very fast to Rockford of course!
NV Rockford RD Pinot Chardonnay (Sparkling White)
Very well made but unfortunately the wine is too under-fruited. 12 months ago I thought this wine might improve but I admit to being disappointed. Fine, balanced, long palate of near nothingness! I have one in the cellar and am not sure whether to drink it or let it go as an experiment.
2001 Rockford Eden Valley Riesling
Mouthfilling and balanced limey wine with quite deep florals. Heaps of fine acidity taking the wine to all areas of the palate. No holes. Impressive wine. Rated Excellent, this is a beautiful wine getting better with age.
2001 Rockford Local Growers Semillon
Broad, lanolin and lemon fruit than dies on the middle and back palate. A little age might help but this wine will never be great.
2004 Rockford White Frontignac
Obvious sweet style that does not cloy and contains powerful fruit and delightful acid. Great mouthfeel and length. I appreciate this wine but personally do not enjoy the style. Many, many others will and I rate it Highly Recommended.
2004 Rockford Alicante Bouchet
As soon as I tasted this wine, I remarked to Ian that this wine is much better than the 2003 and even better than the 2002. Rockford have finally reversed their tendency over the past few years to leave more and more residual sugar in this wine, which took away from the great and unique pleasure that the Rockford Alicante Bouchet can provide. This wine is gorgeous and fully allows the bright, ripe cherry and strawberry flavours to truly shine on long and seamless palate. If you want a rose wine, I do not think you can buy better that this wine. Rated Excellent.
1999 Rockford Moppa Springs Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro
Harmonious combination of savoury and berry fruit on a light/medium bodied palate. The wine has great length from fine integrated acid and very fine tannin. The palate is seamless but the wine lacks flavour depth and is a bit simple. Although it should improve in the short term, it probably will not get any better than Recommended.
2001 Rockford Rod & Spur Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz
This has integrated very well since release. Seamless ripe and long flavours on a medium weighted palate, with a hint of coolness and savouriness. Fine unobtrusive tannins in perfect balance with the fruit and fine acid. Rated Recommended/Highly Recommended, it will continue to build over the next 3-4 years.
1998 Rockford Cabernet Sauvignon
Full, long yet delicate wine leading with savoury characters and sweet mulberries, along with sweet earth and dust. Fine powdery and dusty tannins. Still a few years from its peak. Rated Highly Recommended/Excellent. Beautiful wine.
2002 Rockford Cabernet Sauvignon (Rifle Range, I presume)
Ladies and Gentlemen, save up now and make sure you get some of this when released. I was lucky enough the taste a sample of the final blend and I was extremely impressed. I even had a second glass despite my time limitations.
The coolness of the vintage has enabled Rockford to produce a great Cabernet Sauvignon. Great intensity of rich and ripe blackberry, dark cherry and mulberry flavours controlled awesomely by a smooth, tight structure. The oak has been used perfectly, needing to be searched to be found, providing depth and harmonious sweet spice. The tannins are ripe, fine and sensationally integrated, providing a cushion for the flavours to flow over a very long palate. Very classy. Rated Outstanding, this wine would be the flagship of most other wineries and, as I have not tasted the Basket Press, could be its top 2002 wineÂ… although it wets my palate for the 2002 Basket Press
2001 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz
The cellar door sold out of this wine months ago but an Adelaide restaurant had recently returned this bottle as being faulty. It was the joke of the cellar door. This wine was truly gorgeous.
Smooth, long and powerful. Very ripe fruit but totally melted with savouriness. Like the 2001 Rod & Spur, this wine has integrated faster than I expected (I last tasted it on the first weekend of October 2003) but it will age well but not be one of the longest lived Basket Presses. The wineÂ’s flavour depth is enhanced greatly by a big, ripe and silky structure. Wine does not get much more enjoyable than this. Rated Excellent/Outstanding.
1998 Rockford SVS Flaxman Valley Shiraz
Sweet, ripe, powerful fruit, some of it in the dark red spectrum as well as black, with cool pepper and spice aspects. French oak is well in the background on nose and palate, excellently handled. There is currently a lack of weight in the mid-palate, compared to the front, but this should build with time. The finish is long, assisted by prominent fine tannins with a dusty quality. The wine is well-balanced and carries great finesse, even with its very full-bodied frame. Rated Excellent, I look forward to drinking this wine in 7 years.
1998 Rockford SVS Pressings Shiraz – This wine was created deliberately to highlight the ability of basket pressing to provide softness to a wine. It certainly achieves its purpose. I recently tasted the last few vintages of Kaesler Old Bastard. This wine is in a similar style but totally eclipses them in quality, particularly due to the phenomenal depth and softness this wine displays. This wine is massive, soft and seamless. I was slightly concerned about the hit of shaving cream from American oak on the nose that rose above the massive, ripe dark fruits (the wine was oaked for 30+ months), but all concerned were alleviated on the palate. The oak is totally swallowed by the intense, deep dark fruits which are delivered to all areas of the palate by very ripe, soft tannins. Great length. No holes. Despite the wine’s size and weight, it is not flabby or cloying. Rated Outstanding, this wine will age well and gain greater complexity.
1998 Rockford Vintage Port – Actually quite similar in many ways to the Pressings. A great reflection on the vintage. Huge, soft, sumptuous, multi-layered, long and hedonistic with a delightful clean spirit in total balance with the wine. A dark fruit driven wine in which to enjoy and get lost. Although there is a little cloying aspect to the wine, there is definitely enough structure and balance that will allow me to enjoy my second and third glasses. Even at $60 per bottle, I did not hesitate in buying a 3-pack. Rated Excellent/Outstanding.
Lastly, a 1998 Rockford SVS Hoffmann Shiraz has been made but, unlike the 1997 Hoffmann that was never meant to be released in Australia but which was obtained by some Stonewallers , all of the wines were sent to RobertÂ’s old mate in Switzerland. This was done due to RobertÂ’s Swiss mate originally suggesting and encouraging Robert to make single vineyard wines, and as an attempt to stop the wine collector mentality that is so detrimental to wine lovers who appreciate great wine. So, is anyone going to Switzerland?
Kind regards,
Adair