TN: 1991 Chateau Musar (Bekaa Valley, Lebanon)
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2004 9:02 am
<b>1991 Chateau Musar (Bekaa Valley, Lebanon)</b>
First impressions very poor (typical oxidised characters). Almost poured it down the sink after decanting it (notwithstanding previous vintages were similar but not as bad). Reeked of VA and paint-stripper. The colour is a deceptive deep orange almost, with slight brown tinges. Main body of wine is light red, even ruby but clearly transparent. This ain’t no Aussie shiraz! The bouquet showed little fruit. After one hour, the wine opened up with hints of blackberries, spice and a massive dollop of oak. The longer the wine remained open, the better it got. After 3 hours in the decanter, aromas of stewed plums and cherries came to the fore. The palate was a cesspool initially. Very, very dry. All tannin and oak. No fruit – at all. After one hour, fruit ascended manifesting itself as quite plum-like, cedar, savoury forest floor and leathery, with vanilla oak overtones. Obvious secondary development. Lovely velvet texture. Finishes bone dry with good tannins. Will keep for many years. Overall, quite elegant and coming together nicely. Would not show well against pristine new world wines. After 8 hours (leftovers in someone else’s glass), the wine showed no sign of decline. Serge Hochar has often said that no two bottles of Musar from the same vintage are alike, and that the wine often surprises in poor years and disappoints in great years. I do prefer the 1995 and older (less oxidised) vintages but this wine is in an awkward phase, perhaps needing more time. Certainly the last bottle I had about 4 years ago was too youthful. My mark reflects this bottle drunk, and I’m quite sure it should get better. I’ll try my next one in 5 years. It’s certainly a peculiar wine and a great choice for options tastings.
<b>Very Good 17.0 / 20</b>
First impressions very poor (typical oxidised characters). Almost poured it down the sink after decanting it (notwithstanding previous vintages were similar but not as bad). Reeked of VA and paint-stripper. The colour is a deceptive deep orange almost, with slight brown tinges. Main body of wine is light red, even ruby but clearly transparent. This ain’t no Aussie shiraz! The bouquet showed little fruit. After one hour, the wine opened up with hints of blackberries, spice and a massive dollop of oak. The longer the wine remained open, the better it got. After 3 hours in the decanter, aromas of stewed plums and cherries came to the fore. The palate was a cesspool initially. Very, very dry. All tannin and oak. No fruit – at all. After one hour, fruit ascended manifesting itself as quite plum-like, cedar, savoury forest floor and leathery, with vanilla oak overtones. Obvious secondary development. Lovely velvet texture. Finishes bone dry with good tannins. Will keep for many years. Overall, quite elegant and coming together nicely. Would not show well against pristine new world wines. After 8 hours (leftovers in someone else’s glass), the wine showed no sign of decline. Serge Hochar has often said that no two bottles of Musar from the same vintage are alike, and that the wine often surprises in poor years and disappoints in great years. I do prefer the 1995 and older (less oxidised) vintages but this wine is in an awkward phase, perhaps needing more time. Certainly the last bottle I had about 4 years ago was too youthful. My mark reflects this bottle drunk, and I’m quite sure it should get better. I’ll try my next one in 5 years. It’s certainly a peculiar wine and a great choice for options tastings.
<b>Very Good 17.0 / 20</b>
