TN: d'Arenberg
Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2004 2:40 pm
d’Arenberg 2003 Hermit Crab Marsanne Viognier: This wine is very dry when chilled, with the tannins of the two whites sticking out from the pithy lemon/apricot fruit. It’s quite a nice drop really, but I cannot help thinking that the addition of a little Roussanne from the Money Spider would make it even better blend. Don’t over-chill it.
d’Arenberg 2003 The Last Ditch Viognier: Very obvious cashew-nut malolactic French barrel ferment characters from the 9 months in used oak dominate the nose. The palate again features that classy oak with a touch of butter and orange peel, and like the blend is refreshingly dry and cleansing, and not at all sweet or sickly. This is crying out for a bit of rich food to match – Scaloppine Fungi perhaps?
d’Arenberg 2002 d’Arrys Blend Shiraz Grenache (50/50): Beautiful deep red/purple colour, and an equally rich and clean nose of blackberry, pepper and liquorice. The palate is much richer than the 2001 with a complete absence of oak or hot alcohol despite the 14.5% figure; liquorice is very prominent at first, and then raspberry with more air and warmth. If you can find it for $12.99, it’s and absolute bargain.
d’Arenberg 2001 The Custodian Grenache: Stood out like a bit of a sore thumb among the 2002s; bright raspberry red colour without the depth of the newies. The palate features very pleasant raspberry and pepper characters, but compared to the surrounding wines it lacked depth.
d’Arenberg 2002 High Trellis Cabernet Sauvignon: The colour is a beautiful inky red/purple. The nose is complex and very forward; coal, earth and mint at first, then some menthol as the wine warms/breathes. The palate is just as plush, with mint, chocolate, and that flush of liquorice common to all of the 2002 releases, finishing bigger and slightly hotter than the d’Arrys blend (14.5%). This was very similar to the 2002 Scarpantoni that made a pretty big impact on the McLaren Vale trip last March, hinting the Vales Cabernets are well worth checking out this vintage. Another $12.99 bargain.
d’Arenberg 2002 Footbolt Old Vine Shiraz: It keeps getting better! Dark red/purple colour, with a nose dominated by the oak at first; sweet coconut, then funky vegemite and coffee, but soon enough the rich plum, blackberry, black cherry and liquorice fruit take hold. The palate is soft and rich with blackberry and black cherry, and even more liquorice then the previous 2002 wines; there’s oak present in the palate, but the fruit is truly welded over the top. The wine is again far richer than the 2001, again without a sign of the 14.5% alcohol this time around, and for $12.99 is ridiculously cheap.
d’Arenberg 2003 Laughing Magpie Shiraz Viognier: Deep purple/black colour. The nose and palate are very clean, and devoid of those stinky/sweet apricot and game characters that I’m starting to resent in these blends. Plummy fruit and fine grained but prominent tannins rule the wine, making it pleasant drinking now with food, but also making me question if it will cellar. At present I’d say it’s marginally better than the 2002.
d’Arenberg 2000 The Ironstone Pressings: Surprisingly developed brick red colour, with hues of brown onion skin. The nose is a huge, complex, and developed mix of couch leather, game, some cinnamon and mint, and a touch of liquorice. The palate is just as developed and soft; the massive tannins in other vintages of this wine just aren’t there in this. It’s ready for a rich casserole now and I can’t see it improving with further bottle age; nice wine but there’s no way it should be priced the same as the Dead Arm.
d’Arenberg 2002 Dead Arm Shiraz: Not due for release until the 8th of August, and lives up to the hype in every facet. Superb inky red/purple colour. The nose is closed at the moment, with the oak at times noticeable with coffee and a touch of lanolin; deep under the surface some violets, plum, blueberry, blackberry, and liquorice await for the proper drinking window. The palate is on another scale to all the wines in the line up; a slow huge build-up of plum/blackberry/liquorice fruit and chalky tannins and supporting oak that as TORB would say, crawl across the palate. Magnificent.
d’Arenberg 2000 Vintage Declared Shiraz Port: Yet another name change for the fortified Shiraz, apparently to do with USA labelling requirements. Following the Dead Arm was always going to be a big ask, and a vintage port with grapes from the same vineyard was a logical choice. The nose and palate are very rich with sweet liquorice and raisin characters, and surprisingly isn’t hot for the resulting flavours. Along with the Coriole this is a consistently good VP at the apex of a great (but underrated) fortified producing region.
Cheers
Ian
d’Arenberg 2003 The Last Ditch Viognier: Very obvious cashew-nut malolactic French barrel ferment characters from the 9 months in used oak dominate the nose. The palate again features that classy oak with a touch of butter and orange peel, and like the blend is refreshingly dry and cleansing, and not at all sweet or sickly. This is crying out for a bit of rich food to match – Scaloppine Fungi perhaps?
d’Arenberg 2002 d’Arrys Blend Shiraz Grenache (50/50): Beautiful deep red/purple colour, and an equally rich and clean nose of blackberry, pepper and liquorice. The palate is much richer than the 2001 with a complete absence of oak or hot alcohol despite the 14.5% figure; liquorice is very prominent at first, and then raspberry with more air and warmth. If you can find it for $12.99, it’s and absolute bargain.
d’Arenberg 2001 The Custodian Grenache: Stood out like a bit of a sore thumb among the 2002s; bright raspberry red colour without the depth of the newies. The palate features very pleasant raspberry and pepper characters, but compared to the surrounding wines it lacked depth.
d’Arenberg 2002 High Trellis Cabernet Sauvignon: The colour is a beautiful inky red/purple. The nose is complex and very forward; coal, earth and mint at first, then some menthol as the wine warms/breathes. The palate is just as plush, with mint, chocolate, and that flush of liquorice common to all of the 2002 releases, finishing bigger and slightly hotter than the d’Arrys blend (14.5%). This was very similar to the 2002 Scarpantoni that made a pretty big impact on the McLaren Vale trip last March, hinting the Vales Cabernets are well worth checking out this vintage. Another $12.99 bargain.
d’Arenberg 2002 Footbolt Old Vine Shiraz: It keeps getting better! Dark red/purple colour, with a nose dominated by the oak at first; sweet coconut, then funky vegemite and coffee, but soon enough the rich plum, blackberry, black cherry and liquorice fruit take hold. The palate is soft and rich with blackberry and black cherry, and even more liquorice then the previous 2002 wines; there’s oak present in the palate, but the fruit is truly welded over the top. The wine is again far richer than the 2001, again without a sign of the 14.5% alcohol this time around, and for $12.99 is ridiculously cheap.
d’Arenberg 2003 Laughing Magpie Shiraz Viognier: Deep purple/black colour. The nose and palate are very clean, and devoid of those stinky/sweet apricot and game characters that I’m starting to resent in these blends. Plummy fruit and fine grained but prominent tannins rule the wine, making it pleasant drinking now with food, but also making me question if it will cellar. At present I’d say it’s marginally better than the 2002.
d’Arenberg 2000 The Ironstone Pressings: Surprisingly developed brick red colour, with hues of brown onion skin. The nose is a huge, complex, and developed mix of couch leather, game, some cinnamon and mint, and a touch of liquorice. The palate is just as developed and soft; the massive tannins in other vintages of this wine just aren’t there in this. It’s ready for a rich casserole now and I can’t see it improving with further bottle age; nice wine but there’s no way it should be priced the same as the Dead Arm.
d’Arenberg 2002 Dead Arm Shiraz: Not due for release until the 8th of August, and lives up to the hype in every facet. Superb inky red/purple colour. The nose is closed at the moment, with the oak at times noticeable with coffee and a touch of lanolin; deep under the surface some violets, plum, blueberry, blackberry, and liquorice await for the proper drinking window. The palate is on another scale to all the wines in the line up; a slow huge build-up of plum/blackberry/liquorice fruit and chalky tannins and supporting oak that as TORB would say, crawl across the palate. Magnificent.
d’Arenberg 2000 Vintage Declared Shiraz Port: Yet another name change for the fortified Shiraz, apparently to do with USA labelling requirements. Following the Dead Arm was always going to be a big ask, and a vintage port with grapes from the same vineyard was a logical choice. The nose and palate are very rich with sweet liquorice and raisin characters, and surprisingly isn’t hot for the resulting flavours. Along with the Coriole this is a consistently good VP at the apex of a great (but underrated) fortified producing region.
Cheers
Ian
