TN: 82 Trotanoy vs 82 Certan de May at Grange Restaurant Adl
Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2004 10:24 am
TN: 82 Trotanoy vs 82 Certan de May at Grange Restaurant (Adelaide)
Both from my cellar and stored at 14 degrees Celsius since release. The grand finale to my recent 7 day South Australian wine region tour (Coonawarra, Barossa, Fleurieu Peninsula, McLaren Vale and Clare Valley).
<b>1982 Château Trotanoy</b>
My original note on the very great 82 Trotanoy remains intact. Addendum: Sommelier oohed and aahed, unleashing the comment – “this wine kills the 85 Trotanoy I had recently which was brilliantÂâ€Â. Chocky: “Still the best wine I have ever drankÂâ€Â. This is the drink now and over next 5-10 years wine. Interested to see Parker progressively downgrading this wine over last 10 years. 97 in 1st edition of “BordeauxÂâ€Â, 95 in 3rd and now 92 in 4th edition. I donÂ’t think it has changed much at all during the last decade. Interestingly, the Certan was clearly the superior wine on opening; after 4 hours they were neck and neck and almost impossible to separate. If one wants to understand balance and structure in wine, this is the quintessential wine.
<b>Grand Vin! 19.4/20</b>
<b>1982 Château Certan-de-May</b>
Deeper colour than Trotanoy with higher toned nose. Darker fruits and more oak. Not as feminine or beguiling as the Trotanoy. On the palate, very voluptuous and extracted still after 20 years. More tannin but masses of oodling black fruits and hints of secondary development. Clearly the more youthful of the two wines initially. Just as well balanced too. Everything in its right place and, again, a truly magnificent wine. Needs a few more years but will seemingly last for many years. Preferred this both blind and unmasked for first hour. Sommelier and Chocky preferred the Trotanoy. After 4 hours, impossible to differentiate. And who cares – we were all in heaven! Drink the Trotanoy while this one sleeps further.
<b>Grand Vin! 19.5/20</b>
<b>FYI – Chef Cheong Liew’s “Food From My Heart†8-course degustation menu at the Grange restaurant (Adelaide) – equally superb.</b>
Four Dances of the Sea signature dish – Soused snook, raw calamari with black-ink noodles, octopus aioli, spiced prawn sushi
Abalone, yabbies, and drunken chicken jelly salad, with tomato chili dressing
Bouillabaisse custard in saffron fish consommé, fried Angasi oyster, silver fish and fennel puree
Roasted Trumpeter, zucchini and pumpkin spaghetti, nostrano salami, smoked roe paste
Orange and thyme pheasant breast, leg sausage, confit of quince with sherry jus
Spiced Wagyu beef, anchovy salsa, stuffed mushrooms and baby vegetables
Taleggio, petit livarot cheese with pear, quince picked and walnut salad
Rhubarb crumble in pastry cup with ginger lime sauce and vanilla ice-cream
Both from my cellar and stored at 14 degrees Celsius since release. The grand finale to my recent 7 day South Australian wine region tour (Coonawarra, Barossa, Fleurieu Peninsula, McLaren Vale and Clare Valley).
<b>1982 Château Trotanoy</b>
My original note on the very great 82 Trotanoy remains intact. Addendum: Sommelier oohed and aahed, unleashing the comment – “this wine kills the 85 Trotanoy I had recently which was brilliantÂâ€Â. Chocky: “Still the best wine I have ever drankÂâ€Â. This is the drink now and over next 5-10 years wine. Interested to see Parker progressively downgrading this wine over last 10 years. 97 in 1st edition of “BordeauxÂâ€Â, 95 in 3rd and now 92 in 4th edition. I donÂ’t think it has changed much at all during the last decade. Interestingly, the Certan was clearly the superior wine on opening; after 4 hours they were neck and neck and almost impossible to separate. If one wants to understand balance and structure in wine, this is the quintessential wine.
<b>Grand Vin! 19.4/20</b>
<b>1982 Château Certan-de-May</b>
Deeper colour than Trotanoy with higher toned nose. Darker fruits and more oak. Not as feminine or beguiling as the Trotanoy. On the palate, very voluptuous and extracted still after 20 years. More tannin but masses of oodling black fruits and hints of secondary development. Clearly the more youthful of the two wines initially. Just as well balanced too. Everything in its right place and, again, a truly magnificent wine. Needs a few more years but will seemingly last for many years. Preferred this both blind and unmasked for first hour. Sommelier and Chocky preferred the Trotanoy. After 4 hours, impossible to differentiate. And who cares – we were all in heaven! Drink the Trotanoy while this one sleeps further.
<b>Grand Vin! 19.5/20</b>
<b>FYI – Chef Cheong Liew’s “Food From My Heart†8-course degustation menu at the Grange restaurant (Adelaide) – equally superb.</b>
Four Dances of the Sea signature dish – Soused snook, raw calamari with black-ink noodles, octopus aioli, spiced prawn sushi
Abalone, yabbies, and drunken chicken jelly salad, with tomato chili dressing
Bouillabaisse custard in saffron fish consommé, fried Angasi oyster, silver fish and fennel puree
Roasted Trumpeter, zucchini and pumpkin spaghetti, nostrano salami, smoked roe paste
Orange and thyme pheasant breast, leg sausage, confit of quince with sherry jus
Spiced Wagyu beef, anchovy salsa, stuffed mushrooms and baby vegetables
Taleggio, petit livarot cheese with pear, quince picked and walnut salad
Rhubarb crumble in pastry cup with ginger lime sauce and vanilla ice-cream