The Auswine Forum

A Collaborative Cabernet Retrospective - Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon and Abercrombie 1986-2018

G’day

I was privileged to attend this event, which was offered to Howard Park Wine Club members with the following:

Join us at our Subiaco events space for a vertical tasting across sixteen vintages and four decades of Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon, tracing its evolution from the inaugural 1986 vintage through to Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon in the 21st century.
Proposed by Wine Club member Daniel Vovil, with a significant contribution of wines from his personal cellar, and hosted by Wine Club Manager David Stredwick, the tasting celebrates the long-term development of an iconic Western Australian Cabernet - and the enthusiasm and generosity that comes with acquiring, cellaring and sharing great wine.

This is another opportunity to engage with the history of Howard Park as we celebrate our 40th anniversary.

Fourteen of us collected at Howard Park Wines’ event space in Subiaco to experience the development of Howard Park’s pinnacle cabernet wines over the 40 years of its production. Very detailed notes accompanied each bracket, carefully compiled by David. They included information on the blend (not all wines are 100% cabernet sauvignon), the region, the vineyards, analysis, winemaking notes and a critic’s notes on release (usually James Halliday). I have included some of this information here.

Sixteen wines were tasted from youngest to oldest in four brackets (with acouple of bonus wines):

Bracket 1 | The First Decade

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon 1986 (86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14^ Shiraz, Mount Barker 50%, Frankland River 50%, 12.3% alcohol. Two years in 100% new Troncais oak).
The nose is dusty, with leather, caramel, toffee, and developed blackberry, plums and raspberry. The palate is fully developed, with more blackberry and raspberry and dark plums. Tannins are fully integrated, and the acid is keeping the wine surprisingly fresh. Medium to long finish, and a better bottle than one tried earlier this year.

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon 1987 (100% Cabernet Sauvignon, Frankland River 100%, 12.5% alcohol.Two years in 100% new Troncais oak).
A more delicate nose than the 1986, with lighter developed red fruits, leather and a little spice. The palate is fuller, with chocolate, caramel, developed red fruits, fully integrated tannins and supporting acid. Medium to long finish.

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 1991 (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10^ Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, Great Southern 90%, Margaret River 10%, 12.5 alcohol. 24 months in new Seguin Moreau barriques).
A more intense nose than the previous wines, with developed dark and red fruits, leather, eucalypt and spices. The palate shows chocolate and mocha, more dark fruits, integrated tannins and gentle acid. Medium length, and the nose showed more promise than the palate.

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 1994 (80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15^ Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, Great Southern 80%, Pemberton 20%, 13.5 alcohol. 24 months in new French oak barriques).
Some leather and developed darker fruits, mocha and spice on the nose. On the palate, the fruits are more generous, . with more choc/mocha. Slightly grippy tannins, and overall richer with a longer finish. This was the group’s pick of this bracket (and also mine).
Bracket 2 | Multi-Regional Blending

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 1995 (81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, Great Southern 80%, Pemberton 19%, Margaret River 1%, 14% alcohol. More than two years in 100% French oak barriques).
The nose opened with some VA and leather, and opened up to reveal developed dark fruits, tomato leaf, plum and chocolate. The fruits flow though the generous palate, with chocolate and coffee grounds. Tannins are mostly integrated, and there’s good supporting acid. Medium to long finish, and rated well by the group.

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 1996 (67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Shiraz, 3% Cabernet Franc, Great Southern 75%, Pemberton 23%, Margaret River 2%,14.1% alcohol. 24 months in barriques that were originally 100% new French oak).
This showed the least leather on the nose so far. There’s mocha, coffee and sweeter red and black fruits showing both some intensity and delicacy. Those fruits flow through the palate, with lightly grippy tannins and good supporting acid. A long finish. The wine is well balanced, and shows concentration without huge palate weight. My pick of this bracket.

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 1997 (65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, Great Southern 35%, Pemberton 35%, Margaret River 30%, 13.8% alcohol. 24 months in new French oak barriques).
The nose is less intense than the previous two wines, and there’s some green capsicum in among the red berries and plums. These are supporting by coffee. Mocha and dark chocolate. There’s more light coffee on the palate, and more red berries and plums Some tomato leaf and spices also. Tannins are integrating and acid is softer. Medium length. This wine improved with time in the glass.

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 1998 (75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot, Great Southern 78%, Margaret River22%, 14.1% alcohol. 24 months in new French oak barriques).
A slightly sour nose, with mostly red berry fruit and coffee grounds. The palate, in contrast, has some fruit sweetness, mostly in the red fruit spectrum. Tannins are integrating, and acid is firm. Medium to long finish. This may have been an unrepresentative bottle, as I have had better ones.
Bracket 3 | 21st Century Classics

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, Mount Barker 69% 78%, Margaret River29%, Frankland River 2%, 14.6% alcohol. 23 months in new French oak barriques). Sealed under screwcap.
Brighter fruits than previous wines, mostly blackberry and blackcurrant with mocha and spices on the nose. The palate shows a blend of savoury notes, fresher fruits (including blueberry) and mocha oak influences. Tannins are present but not obtrusive, and there’s good supporting acid. A long finish and very well balanced overall.

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, Mount Barker 69% 78%, Margaret River29%, Frankland River 2%, 14.6% alcohol. 23 months in new French oak barriques). Sealed under cork.
Plenty of choc/mocha on the nose, with red fruits slightly in the background. These flow through to the palate, with more chocolate and tangy red fruits. Tannins are moderately grippy, and there’s noticeable acid. Medium to long finish, and more developed than the screwcap version.

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2004 (98% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, Mount Barker 81%, Margaret River19%, 13.6% alcohol. 24 months in 70% new French oak barriques).
A modest nose compared to the surrounding wines, with red and blue berries, cedar, vanilla and some floral notes. Darker fruit dominate the palate, with grippy tannins, noticeable acid and a very long finish.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 (100% Cabernet Sauvignon, Mount Barker 69%, Margaret River 14%,14.1% alcohol. 50% new/50% one-year-old French barriques).
Mocha, blackberry and red berries on the nose alongside savoury and cedar notes. The fruits on the palate tend towards red more than dark, and there’s considerable fruit sweetness. Tannins are fine and slightly grippy, and acid is firm. Long finish and reasonably well balanced.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (100% Cabernet Sauvignon, Mount Barker 60%, Margaret River 40%,13.7% alcohol, 16 months in 70% new, 30% one-year-old French barriques - Sylvain, St Martin, Seguin Moreau, Bossuet).
A pronounced and almost perfumed nose, with blackcurrant, cassis, cedar,vanilla, violets and cocoa. The palate is powerful but with some elegance. There’s dusty grippy tannins, good supporting acid and a very long finish. Well balanced and my pick of this bracket.
Bracket 4 | Abercrombie
Note: The Abercrombie moniker first appeared in 2005.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (100% Cabernet Sauvignon, Mount Barker 97%, Margaret River 3%,14.0% alcohol, 18 months in 70% new French oak barriques).
Cedar, vanilla, blackcurrant and other dark berries on the nose, with savoury dusty notes. The palate has fine grippy tannins, supportive acid, more savoury notes, and a long finish.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 (100% Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River 75%, Mount Barker 25%, 14.0% alcohol, 18 months in 70% new French oak barriques).
A good balance of savoury and fruit on the nose, with blackcurrant, red berries and cedar. The palate is more savoury, with cedar, vanilla, and red fruits emerging. Acid and tannins are in balance, and the wine finishes long.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (100% Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River 75%, Mount Barker 25%, 14.2% alcohol, 22 months in 60% new, 40% older French barriques).
Graphite, blackcurrant and cocoa on the generous nose. The palate is juicy with more dark fruits. It has dusty grippy tannins and greater intensity than the previous wines. Long finish and the group’s pick of this bracket.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (100% Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River 78%, Mount Barker 22%, 14.0% alcohol,22 months in 60% new, 40% older French barriques).
This is a big wine in most aspects. The nose has eucalypt, milk chocolate, lots of blackcurrants and red berries, cassis, cedary oak and mocha. . The palate is similarly substantial, with mocha, coffee, mulberry, red and black berry fruits. Tannins, acid and fruits are all in balance and the wine has considerable length. Very well balanced, and my pick of this bracket.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2024. Offered as a preview, so no technical data available, although likely to be 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and 100% Margaret River fruit. A very primary nose, with the ripe blackcurrant fruit jumping out of the glass. There’s cassis, mocha and the cedary oak is dialled back a little from previous wines. The palate is also fruit- dominant and mouth filling, with fine grippy tannins and prominent acid. A long finish, and needs time to settle down.


This was a sensational tasting. It was also truly collaborative, combining Dan’s generosity in opening his cellar with David’s thorough preparation and professional presentation. All credit and my profound gratitude to both gentlemen.

Cheers
Allan

Ist bracket 4th bracket

Terrific write up and tasting. Those 90s wines - made by John Wade, as I recall? - were always pretty good. Odd to see the focus shift over the years from Great Southern & Mt Barker to Margaret River. Has that been for the better I wonder?

GraemeG wrote: ↑Thu Oct 15, 2026 9:02 am Terrific write up and tasting. Those 90s wines - made by John Wade, as I recall? - were always pretty good. Odd to see the focus shift over the years from Great Southern & Mt Barker to Margaret River. Has that been for the better I wonder?

Interesting question, Graeme. I suspect it is for the better, although only time will tell as the MR wines fully mature. I think the move, however, has been gradual and driven by
a) expanding vineyard resources since the Burch family took over and
b) winemaker preferences for different grape parcels to go into different wines. Note that Howard Park also produces single region cabernets (and shiraz) from each of the Great Southern and Margaret River. The wines we were tasting were the top tier cabernets (or, from the earlier days, the only cabernets )

Hi again, Graeme

In relation to the question of Howard Park's vineyard acquisitions and development, this came through to Wine Club members onFriday:

Great wines begin long before the first grapes are harvested. They are shaped by the land on which they grow, the climate, the soils and the careful decisions made in the vineyard over many years.

In our new five-part series, From the Vineyard, we invite you to explore the estate vineyards that form the foundation of Howard Park. From Margaret River to the Great Southern and Pemberton, we'll discover what makes each site special, why we've chosen to grow particular grape varieties there and how these distinctive environments find expression in the wines we craft.
​
We start our journey at Leston vineyard, our original estate vineyard.

Leston Vineyard - Wilyabrup subregion, Margaret River

Nestled within Margaret River's prized Wilyabrup subregion, Leston vineyard sits on hallowed winegrowing ground, internationally renowned for producing outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

Here, ancient gravelly soils, a Mediterranean climate and cooling breezes from the Indian Ocean create ideal growing conditions. The picturesque Wilyabrup Brook winds through the property, lending its name to this celebrated corner of Margaret River.

Acquired by the Burch family in 1988 as an old settlement sheep farm, the property was named in honour of Jeff Burch's father, Leston. First planted in 1996, the vineyard now grows seven grape varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Shiraz.

Beyond the vines, Leston vineyard is also home to our winery operations and architecturally acclaimed cellar door, established in 2000. For many of our Wine Club members, it's a familiar and much-loved destination.

Less familiar, perhaps, is our innovative rootling nursery. A rarity in Western Australia, the nursery produces up to 40,000 young vines annually, supporting our ongoing exploration of grape varieties and clones.

From its remarkable location to decades of careful vineyard development, Leston embodies our belief that exceptional wines begin with exceptional sites.

Cheers
Allan

Nice to know wineries read my comments here!
Still, I presume those early HP wines were made (by John Wade) from purchased grapes in GS. If Leston in MR wasn't planted til 96, then clearly there's a hole somewhere...
AI tells me the Burch family first partnered with Wade in 93. So they effectively took over an existing operation, albeit a virtual one of sorts.

GraemeG wrote: ↑Mon Oct 19, 2026 1:13 pm Nice to know wineries read my comments here!
Still, I presume those early HP wines were made (by John Wade) from purchased grapes in GS. If Leston in MR wasn't planted til 96, then clearly there's a hole somewhere...
AI tells me the Burch family first partnered with Wade in 93. So they effectively took over an existing operation, albeit a virtual one of sorts.

Hi Graeme. I don't know if wineries read your comments - this was extracted from an email I received (and I don't work for HP).

You're 100% correct about the early John ade wines, however. Purchased Great Southern grapes and I think made in other people's wineries until the original Demark HP winery was established. Burch family involvement came later, in the early 1990s.

Cheers
Allan