TNs: 1982 and 1983 Wolf Blass Black (major surprises)
Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2004 12:12 pm
Some forgotten remnants discovered in my bi-annual cellar clear out for Langton's (clearing the decks of all pre-1990 vintage Aussie wines, excepting the 1986s and icon wines like Grange and Hill of Grace).
Both wines were genuine surprises given I was anticipating heavily vanilla oaked monsters and under-ripe green wine that so typifies Aussie cabernets from this decade (as has been my experience). Even now I can hear the Aussie wine forum critics sniggering the same sentiment about Wolf Blass Black Label wines. But the proof is in the bottle. The corks were like brand new and the bottle fill levels had hardly budged (levels remained 1cm from the cork) – extraordinary for Aussie wines that are over 20 years old. Although I stopped buying Black Label around the 1990 vintage, I may have to reconsider (despite style changes). And the wines were far beyond the typical one-dimensional trait exemplified by most of the wines made in this era (tasted 10-20 years later).
<b>1982 Wolf Blass Black Label</b>
75% cabernet from Langhorne Creek, 25% shiraz from the Barossa and Clare Valley. Mid red colour with slight hints of brown at the edge. Excellent given its age. The nose is exceptional – still cascades with aromas of sweet perfumed berries, just a hint of green but little oak density. Far superior nose to the 83 Black Label. Lovely wine too on the palate and fully mature. The distinct lack of a long length was the only major negative. Much softer and plusher than the 83. Good balance with little tannins left. Quite dry but very easy to drink. Holding up well.
<b>Very Good 17.5 / 20</b>
<b>1983 Wolf Blass Black Label</b>
12% alcohol. 80% cabernet from Langhorne Creek and Clare Valley, 20% merlot from McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek. Mid red again with no brown and brighter than the 82 (superior clarity). The bouquet is almost quintessential classic Bordeaux – cedar, ash, prunes. But also much greener than the 82 (capsicum) and more secondary vegetative flavours, but certainly not disconcerting or unappealing. The wine tastes like the 82 Black but with added increments of intensity and concentration. None of the capsicum evident here like on the nose. Yes, there is slight taste of spicy oak but this augments the wine and is not in any way prominent. Lovely balance and fills out the palate well. Tannins well integrated, and the length is very good. An all round excellent wine that is mature with balance, weight and a seamless binary taste of primary and evolved characters. The 20-year-old cork looks one year old – only ~10% soaked! 2nd day – no difference. The length is the only real shortcoming but a good effort all round. One of the very best 1983 cabernets I have had from Australia.
<b>Excellent 18.0 / 20</b>
Both wines were genuine surprises given I was anticipating heavily vanilla oaked monsters and under-ripe green wine that so typifies Aussie cabernets from this decade (as has been my experience). Even now I can hear the Aussie wine forum critics sniggering the same sentiment about Wolf Blass Black Label wines. But the proof is in the bottle. The corks were like brand new and the bottle fill levels had hardly budged (levels remained 1cm from the cork) – extraordinary for Aussie wines that are over 20 years old. Although I stopped buying Black Label around the 1990 vintage, I may have to reconsider (despite style changes). And the wines were far beyond the typical one-dimensional trait exemplified by most of the wines made in this era (tasted 10-20 years later).
<b>1982 Wolf Blass Black Label</b>
75% cabernet from Langhorne Creek, 25% shiraz from the Barossa and Clare Valley. Mid red colour with slight hints of brown at the edge. Excellent given its age. The nose is exceptional – still cascades with aromas of sweet perfumed berries, just a hint of green but little oak density. Far superior nose to the 83 Black Label. Lovely wine too on the palate and fully mature. The distinct lack of a long length was the only major negative. Much softer and plusher than the 83. Good balance with little tannins left. Quite dry but very easy to drink. Holding up well.
<b>Very Good 17.5 / 20</b>
<b>1983 Wolf Blass Black Label</b>
12% alcohol. 80% cabernet from Langhorne Creek and Clare Valley, 20% merlot from McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek. Mid red again with no brown and brighter than the 82 (superior clarity). The bouquet is almost quintessential classic Bordeaux – cedar, ash, prunes. But also much greener than the 82 (capsicum) and more secondary vegetative flavours, but certainly not disconcerting or unappealing. The wine tastes like the 82 Black but with added increments of intensity and concentration. None of the capsicum evident here like on the nose. Yes, there is slight taste of spicy oak but this augments the wine and is not in any way prominent. Lovely balance and fills out the palate well. Tannins well integrated, and the length is very good. An all round excellent wine that is mature with balance, weight and a seamless binary taste of primary and evolved characters. The 20-year-old cork looks one year old – only ~10% soaked! 2nd day – no difference. The length is the only real shortcoming but a good effort all round. One of the very best 1983 cabernets I have had from Australia.
<b>Excellent 18.0 / 20</b>
Can't wait to try the good vintages from the 1990's once they're ready!