Re: Coonawarra notes - 2024
Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2024 2:31 pm
by phillisc
A scaled down version of the musings this year, a few things going on, but was great to get away for another trip to Coonawarra. Vignerons generous with their time and wines poured. Notes from general tastings, dinners and assorted events.
Balnaves
2019 Blend in a good spot, will go longer if a big whack of tannin is anything to go by. 2021 Cabernet Merlot, lovely structure great fruit, reflection of the vintage, purchased a few. 2019 Cabernet, so balanced and approachable now, still so primary, just delicious, a half dozen in the hole. 2014 Tally in a great spot, drinking really well at 10 years.
Banks Thargo
Not much to report here, 2019 Paroo Bagman Cabernet (flagship) hasn’t moved much in 12 months, solid if not spectacular. 2013 Cabernet, has peaked, 2021 Cabernet, something not quite right, very astringent finish.
Bellwether, didn’t get to the winery, no new wines from last year, so not tasted.
Billy Brand, nothing new from last year, so not tasted.
Blok Estate
Not sure what has happened here, but no love, a CD that looks like a bomb has hit it and no new releases. Current wines are a 2013/14 Cabernet and a Shiraz. Luke and Bec Trotter are really nice people, but such an uninspiring visit. No notes taken.
Bowen Estate
2022 Shiraz still takes the points over the Cabernet, although the cab is just starting its development, and will be very long lived, very firm tannins. 2023 En primeur, both wines look good, well structured, fruit sweetness and no harsh edges. First wines I have tried from what most in Coonawarra admit was a tricky challenging vintage, jury is out. 2023 Chardonnay, this is actually a very nice wine and plans to graft over some more vines in the front block well underway. The sister picked up six. Purchased a few 2022 reds under stelvin to compare with the cork offerings. Very good wines overall. Emma Bowen really stepping up considering tragic family events, certainly taking over the reins.
Brand and sons
Sam Brand makes a large range of wines, many very good. 2013 silent partner in a bit of a hole. 2021 SP is a fabulous wine, will seek some out. 2021 Last Sunday drive, plush fruit profile, great drinking. 2021 family reserve cabernets, best of the lot, fantastic mouth feel, everything so balanced. 2019 Sanctuary cabernet, almost as good as the Family Reserve, again really well made. 2021 SC, needs heaps of time, but again very good. Hopefully some deals coming.
Brands Laira
2012 171 Cabernet is fantastic, will need to track some down…magnificent mouth feel on the palate. 2018 171 equally good, plush and rich, got a few. 2022 Tall vines shiraz, excellent wine, very fruit expressive, one to watch. 2021 1968 vines very good wine, another cracker from this vintage. 2018 Stentiford Shiraz, in a great spot, still so primary, long firm tannins on the finish…very good group of wines here!
DiGiorgio
Not much to report here other than the 2021 cabernet continues to be very impressive, best in the lineup. 2021 Cab Franc, lighter aromatic style. 2016 Cabernet developing very well.
Hollick
Great lunch upstairs, have a focused Italian menu now, with a selection of pasta’s with mix and match sauces. A glass of 2021 Cab franc tossed in, went well with the puttanesca. 2020 old vines cabernet, rubbish wine, thin insipid…next. 2018 Ravenswood, struggling to find the fruit here and should be much better than this, a huge whack of tannin…time may be kind? 2019 Ravenswood, really good wine, what one would expect from the top marque. 2014 Ravenswood, think this has peaked, which is surprising given that topflight cabernet should go much further.
Katnook
Pleased to say that 2021 Prodigy and Odyssey are phenomenal wines, the shiraz wining best of show last month. Cracking wines, very happy to have a few of each. The 2014 versions were a little different, the cabernet in a bit of a hole, needs a bit more time. The Shiraz, brilliant profile, plush rich, a twinge of sweetness, really well made. 2022 Cabernet, very solid, another one to watch.
Koonara
Eclectic range of wines, 2021 angel’s wings cabernet, very good, equally 2021 wanderlust cabernet excellent, might have to seek out. 2021 angel’s peak shiraz, quite raw, needs time, all tannin and oak. 2020 Ambriels gift Cabernet, thin and uninteresting. 2022 Head honcho cabernet, the new flag ship made skilfully by the best in the business, Peter Douglas. Big heavy bottle, $100, but a bloody good wine…may/might have to get a few.
Leconfield
Good things happening here, under Paul Gordon’s tutelage a fabulous range of wines. 2021 Merlot, very light, probably not made for me, 2022 cabernet franc, really good, very fine, very approachable. There is a bit of a movement for this variety in Coonawarra, quite a few now being made. 2021 cabernets (CS/CF/Merlot), this is lovely, really approachable, will develop well. 2020 cabernet, has developed a little more since last year, but fruit still trying to push through. I’m convinced after finally tasting the 2021, that it won’t. 2021 is a wow of a wine, was top 5 all weekend for me. So much going on, beautiful wine. Missed out on getting some recently but will wait for a special. Simply fantastic. 2018 Sydney reserve, a return to form, ’17 should never have been released, really balanced, all things in place, rich and delicious…$110?? Might need to find a contact in the wine club. Strong range of wines from the 2021/22 vintage.
Lindemans
No change from last year’s musings, ’21 St George is still a cracker, with other two close behind. What a difference a year makes, didn’t rate with the judges at the 2023 at the Limestone Coast wine show, but pipped for top gold and really compared to what did (more on that later) should have cleaned up. Glad to have a dozen. Well, seems there are three released from 2022 made by the departed Liz Marwood and will be part of the TWE fire sale, brand jettison, bastardisation of this great label. I will probably on form alone, pick some up. 2004 LR fruit gone. 1979 St George (from magnum) was very interesting, enough there and large format showed well, but think its best days are behind it.
Majella
On form and range, probably assumes the mantle for Coonawarra. Some say Bruce Gregory makes wine to a formula, and maybe he does, but the equation sits well with me, especially in good vintages, wines that flick between a balance of finesse and power, quite fruit forward, gentle on the oak and made for cellaring. 2024 Riesling, nice style, crisp acid. 2019 shiraz, spicy note, lots going on, good wine, but prefer the cabernets. 2022 Composer, a blend (Cab/Shiraz??) is solid with out setting the world on fire. This and the musician seem to clean up everywhere, formula wines perhaps. 2021 Cabernet, outstanding wine, nothing more needs to be said. 2017 Mallea, should not have been made, not great or indeed good VFM, thin and falls short. 2016 GPL, current release at 8 years!! 2018/19/21 all made. Think this wine has captured me, not unlike Parker First Growth, fabulous structure, such grace and poise, can only guess where this will go, over the next 2-3 decades…glad to have a few. 2016 cabernet, in a great spot, developing very well. 2018 Mallea, tried at the CD, much better return to form, will wait for the sale, very good expression of cab/Shiraz. Then the 10-year cabernet vertical, in short 2024 tank sample, solid fruit profile, black teeth, 2023 quite sharp on the palate…is the fruit there, or all tannin and oak, 2022 excellent well made, 2021 outstanding, 2020, hasn’t moved, fruit still trying to make its way, but poor really. 2019, lovely wine, 2018 in that lovely spot of mellow, so balanced, so much more to go. 2017, developed but has that green note. 2016 blockbuster, firm tannins, still a baby. 2015 in a great spot, very easy to drink.
Otellia
Apart from an excellent 2023 Mt Gambier Riesling, with salt and pepper squid at the pub, nothing tasted.
Padthaway estate
Dropped in as some of our party had never been to the CD. No change from last year, wines feel stale and those who liked chardonnay, thought the wines were ordinary. Purchased a single bottle of the Blanc de Blanc to redeem the tasting fee. No need to rush back.
Parker
Maybe a dead heat with Majella, however 2021 and 2022 vintages may see it take over. 2022 Cool climate Shiraz, pleasant wine, nice lunch time pizza red. 2021 Cool Climate cabernet really good for the price ($22?) lovely fruit structure, clean palate firm tannins. 2021 Terra Rossa, said before, great wine, similar to Wynns BL, very impressive. 2021 Kidman shiraz. This is a beauty, silky smooth, fabulous, picked up six. 2021 95 block (90/10 CS/Petit Verdo), beautiful wine, lingered for ages, picked up six, on this, 2021 FG will be stratospheric. 2014 95 block, in a great spot. 2020 first growth, a good wine and reminds me a little of the 2020 Bowen, well made with what fruit they had, but have reservation that it won’t reach expected heights. Certainly, far better than 2020 John Riddoch. Saving pennies for the 2021. 2018 FG on the other hand is fantastic, beautiful structure, will be very long lived. Frog mouth Tawny, lovely wine, nice contrast of spirit and richness, picked up a couple. Great service at the CD as always from the Parker team.
Patrick of Coonawarra
Not much tried here, 2006 home block cabernet has developed into a lovely wine, great to taste. 2013 Grande reserve cabernet in an equally good spot. Don’t really know why, have never been a fan.
Raidis
no new wines since last year, not tasted.
Redman
Doing good things, branching out with some different varieties. 2022 Cabernet, so fruit forward, well priced through the wine club, well balanced and needs time. 2021 cabernet, excellent wine. 2021 shiraz, a fraction light, but think this will develop well. 2021 The Redman, this is very good, reminds me of the Mallea, great expression of cab/Shiraz blend, really well made, will get some. 2019 The Redman, equally impressive, picked up six. 2006 The Redman, still has plenty of fruit, lovely old red, really good. 2010 Redman, had this with an eye fillet at the pub, in a great spot, still inky black, years to go. 2016 Redman cabernet, at the Pipers dinner, in a bracket with the 2016 Majella, good but the Majella took the points.
Riddoch Coonawarra
Things have slowed down a bit, since the hype of the 2021 Pastoralist…apparently, they sell through Dans and little else. 2021 vocation series shiraz, very robust wine a heap of tannin, pretty good. VS 2022 Pastoralist cabernet…never got to try the ’21, but this is excellent, might get a few. 2021 The author cab, excellent as well, very balanced, wonderful fruit. ’21 Author shiraz, very solid wine, just a fraction behind the cabernet. Interesting and well-made wines.
Rymill Coonawarra
Bit annoyed I missed out on some very cheap ($15) 2021 Cabernet, oh well. 2021 Surveyor and Sandstone. The top two marques, the former showing lovely varietal characters, the latter was good, but not great. Wish they weren’t $80 each, would consider if offered cheaper elsewhere. 2019 shiraz, a bit of a vegetable note, a fraction green…not nice, 2019 cabernet, lovely easy drinking wine. 2020 Rymill cabernet, one of the better examples of the vintage, vineyards to the north of the district, wonder if they got the fruit off before all the disease pressures?
Whistle Post
Good range of wines and have looked at a few of these now. 2018 Reserve cabernet, lovely development, just wish it wasn’t $50-60, would certainly consider. 2018 cabernet showing very well, a better VFM proposition. Similarly, 2021, lovely fruit structure, long palate, drying tannins, got a few. 2013 cabernet, still a pup, drinking really well, needs a decade. Good range of wines in the old Lindies Cellar Door.
Wynns
Have had a few opportunities now, to look at current and back vintages in the last few months. I wasn’t going to get any of the 2023 shiraz but it picked up best shiraz in its class at the wine show…for a wine that can be picked up for $11-12 remarkable. so might get a couple to see what the hype is all about. 2022 Siding, a bit thin, the lowest range/class of fruit. 2022 Red Stripe, this is fantastic. With the addition of malbec to the blend, really good wine for the money, rich and complex at the price point. 2022 BL Cab, a brooding wine, just fantastic, so much going on, had the nose in the glass for several minutes, fabbo!! 2022 BL Shiraz, equally good, if perhaps a fraction better, really liked this, so cool climate beautiful blue fruits, really classy, have a couple of cases of each…maybe more to come? 2022 V&A Cab Shiraz, this is excellent, lovely mouth feel, really well made, lower alcohol 12%, a joy to drink. 2022 V&A Shiraz, a fraction thin, completely overshadowed by the BL Shiraz. 2013 V&A Cab shiraz, felt this wine was astringent and in a bit of a hole, just ok. 2021 single vineyard Messenger cab, a star. Wonderfully perfumed cabernet, beautiful wine, 6 in the hole. Will be magnificent with some age on it. 2021 JR, monumental wine, simply epic, have had this 3 times now, hope someone has a glass in hand when reading the eulogy. Beautifully made, this vintage will be one of the best, came from just two vineyards (Glengyle and something else??). Yes, its great, but not sure of the $175 RRP and it’s certainly not flying out the door. Do hope there is a sale at some stage! 2021 Michael is as good as the Riddoch, takes on where there the BL Shiraz leaves off. Full bodied, wonderful palate length, cherry, dark fruits, spectacular. 2016 Michael, so so primary, wonderfully balanced, supreme! PX series four to finish. CD experience this year was poor. Mature lady did her best, but little guidance re assistance with pouring, from the new CD manager, when we were the only people in the CD. $30 for two small pieces of cheese…wines are great, but really need to smarten up the CD experience. Perhaps this is a reflection of a corporate juggernaut, that has dropped the ball? Oh, and if Wynns don’t make enough wines, a 2024 cabernet franc is in the works. Might be another to add to the black label or single vineyard range.
Yalumba
Continues to do very good things, largely due to having contained operations (smaller vineyards), talent in both the winery and vineyard and sufficient resources. 2014 Menzies in a great spot, 2018 Menzies, stonkingly good, glad to have a dozen. 2019 Menzies (current release), fantastic wine, plush rich with depth, will seek some out. Completely different set of wines to the rubbish 2017, not a harsh green acidic edge in sight! 2020 Cigar, a fraction thin. Then a series of three barrel series wines, when cabernet celebrations was just a single weekend and there was the barrel series auctions, where punters could buy 5/10/20 dozen of a wine put up at auction. 2010 drinking well, 2009, astringent and fractured, past its best, 2008 best of the three. 2019 Caley, oh to be able to afford some of these. A pleasure to taste a couple of glasses over dinner, although if I am to be fair, not a great match with a piece of lukewarm wagyu…charred eye fillet please! Lingers an age, so poised and balanced. Kevin (KG) Glastonbury and Heather Fraser know what they are doing. I’ve been fortunate to have a really good look at every vintage of The Caley, just baulk at $365 a bottle. Probably acceptable by global standards…who knows, one day perhaps. 2021 Sanctum, supposedly right in the guts of the Menzies vineyard and yes have had 3 or 4 bottles of this now. Technically perfect cabernet, so woos the judges giving it back-to-back best wine of show. It does remind me a bit of the Majella musician, good but a tad linear. I purchased another sixer at $17 a bottle last week at an Adelaide pub. I’ll be surprised if it is better than the Cigar, but in the long run is nowhere near the Menzies. How it trumped the 2021 St George, I’ll never know. I certainly do not endorse the chairman of judges boast that they are consistent, with a wine going back-to-back, largely a fluke. Let’s see what happens next year, certain that same claims won’t be made.
Zema
A solid range of wines, visited the CD and drank a bottle of wine, whilst listening to some screecher attempting to belt out a few tunes and loading up on free pizza, by the time we rolled up, they were giving them away…anyway useful blotting paper! 2013 cabernet, drinking beautifully now, 2019 fantastic fruit, picked up a few. 2018 Cluny Cab merlot blend drinking very nicely now. Not enamoured with the 2019 Shiraz. 2016 Saluti (flagship and first since 2006 inaugural release) 80/20 Cab/Shiraz blend, excellent wine, but pricey…$110 through the wine club.
Well, that’s another year run and done. 2025 will see the bulk of the 2022 releases and should be a lot of good wines. 2023 vintage will be really mixed, as 4-6 weeks late, but 2024 a return to form. Might have a break next year but might pop down again…its certainly an addictive place.
Cheers Craig
