September/October tasting notes
Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2022 5:27 am
Just bringing my notes up to date.
- 2021 La Cave D'Augustin Florent Touraine - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (11/15/2022)
Very pale yellow. Quite varietally correct and recognisable on the nose. Clear Sauvignon character, citrus, some goosberry type notes. Not over the top but a little more brazen than some better Touraine wines. Crisp and refreshing on the palate, maybe just a touch grippy, but overall the acidity is decent. Pleasant wine, good with food, and excellent value for <€7 at Carrefour. (87 pts.) - 2018 Château La Croix-Laroque Cuvée Vieux Laroque Fronsac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Fronsac (11/14/2022)
This is merlot dominant with 15% cab franc. On first opening, there is something distinctly off here, but a little hard to say whether it is poor storage, brett, or a mix. Certainly the nose seems distinctly developed, in contrast to the young age and the back label suggestion to keep for up to 5-8 years. With air the palate is fresher, displaying fairly dark feruits and liqueur like tones. Maybe the fruit was a bit cooked, but that feels strange in a 14% abv Bdx? To be fair it was from a corner store, so very bad storage is certainly a possibility. On this bottle I couldn't recommend it despite the modest price (c€7-10). NR NR (flawed) - 2020 Jean-Luc Colombo Côtes du Rhône Le Vent Rouge - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (11/7/2022)
Grabbed this off a supermarket shelf when another wine wouldn't scan. Popped and poured. Just a brief impression but this was pretty much acceptable CdR. Restrained red fruits. Just a touch thin or even sour in a way. Probably fair for a c€6-7 supermarket wine. (86 pts.) - 2019 Domaine Jessiaume Volnay - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay (10/30/2022)
Second bottle from a three pack. Just a quick note but this is very good. Quite muscular. Nice deep fruit and definition. Quite primary still. I suspect this will really improve with a bit of a sleep. 92-93+ (92 pts.) - 2020 Conte di Campiano Terre Siciliane - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane (10/30/2022)
This is a sweet fruited wine with pleasant balance that offers generous easy drinking pleasure despite the oddly heavy bottle. For about €14 the value seems pretty fair. (88 pts.) - 2016 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour Dom de Bila-Haut V.I.T Visitare Interiore Terrae - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour (10/27/2022)
Final bottle from the three pack, about 8 months after the last. This bottle feels a little fresher, but my views are pretty much the same. Sweet, slightly stewed plum on the nose. Not so much herbal element this time, but still a touch. Seems a touch of brett as well. Nice persistence and depth on the palate. These are perhaps a shade over priced, but I would probably still buy again, with a view to drinking around 6-8 years of age. Not sure what longer-term aging would do to this. (92 pts.) - 2020 Vignerson de Cessenon Saint-Chinian Schiste Intense - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Saint-Chinian (10/27/2022)
This is a really impressive and polished red for the €12 price, with sweet juicy fruit flavours and pleasing balance. Not a thinking wine, a drinking wine as they say. Delicious. (90 pts.) - 2020 Franck Millet Pouilly-Fumé - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé (10/26/2022)
Quite pale yellow in colour. Somehow bold but also restrained on the nose. There are citrus notes, some gooseberry like varietal character, and a touch of the classic smoky character of the region. The palate carries this through with nice acid and a certain minerality. Benchmark Sav B which puts most new world versions to shame. Value-wise €18 at Nicolas is perhaps what I would call "fully priced", but I think this can be found cheaper elsewhere in which case it would represent a good deal. (92 pts.) - 2019 Grande Arche Cuvée Millésimée - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (10/25/2022)
Fairly average supermarket Saint Emillion. Some slight character but the overall impression is one of sour red fruits. Probably under ripe or over cropped. For €12 this is frankly disappointing. (86 pts.) - 2014 Quinta da Pacheca Porto Late Bottled Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto (10/24/2022)
I can't quite remember when I bought this, but it was presumably from the Portugeuse online shop I buy from and was probably about €18. For the price, it is fantastic. Nice balance. Sweet but not overly sweet. Not too alcoholic, and reasonably perfumed. Lovely LBV port for the start of the cold weather. (90 pts.) - 2019 Stéphane Ogier Syrah La Rosine - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes (10/24/2022)
This is very restrained at first. Subtle to the point of disappointment. With more air it shows a little bit more. it is certainly a very perfumed style of syrah, which I expect from this producer. Purple berries, violets, deep plum notes. Still feels a little short on the palate, but looking at it over a couple of days I have to conclude it will show better in c3+ years. At €22 the value is questionable, but I suspect it can be found cheaper than that. 89+ (89 pts.) - 2020 La Nyonsaise Côtes du Rhône Villages Exuberance - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages (10/24/2022)
I was a bit surprised to see a CdR Villages on the shelf at my local Carrefour city at a price above €15 and I couldn't resist seeing what it would offer. Overall, this is a lovely soft to mid bodied red. Classic CdR, sweet purple fruits, a floral element. A lovely drink for sure, but the pricing feels a shade off? (88 pts.) - 2017 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Les Jalets - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (10/24/2022)
This is a Bio Crozes Hermitage from Jaboulet. The back label suggests to drink within five years, which would suggest this might be about finished, but that seems conservative to me. Good dark red colour. Quite fresh on the nose, fairly classic Crozes with spicy plum aromas. Medium bodied on the palate, with quite fresh acid and minimal tannin. Not sure if this was better younger, but it's perfectly solid to drink now. The value at €16 is probably just about borderline. (87 pts.) - 2019 Myrko Tépus Dai! - France, Provence, Vin de Pays des Coteaux du Verdon (10/24/2022)
I think I have about two bottles left from a six pack, and this is just a quick impression but overall I enjoy this. It is quite dry, a little grippy, with pleasant acidity. Won't please everyone but some people will love it. 87-88pts (87 pts.) - 2018 Marcel Deiss Alsace Complantation - France, Alsace (10/22/2022)
A year on from my last note, and this bottle was decidedly less impressive. The fruit remains in the tropical end of the spectrum, but there is a distinct oxidative note as well. The palate is a bit unbalanced as well. Not sure if this is now getting past it or if this is just the vagaries of cork. (86 pts.) - 2020 Cave de Ribeauvillé Riesling Constance Muller - France, Alsace (10/21/2022)
This is pretty crisp, varietal dry riesling which drinks nicely as an aperitif or with light seafood type dishes. Very good value around €8. (86 pts.) - 2021 Cantina Tollo Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Biodinamico - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (10/19/2022)
I am not sure I have had Cantina Tollo before but I gather they are a well known co-op making broadly well appreciated wines in the region. However, on the showing of this I have some doubts. I fell for the wax capsule and the reasonable €16 price in a Gourmet Monoprix, but this is not my cup of tea. The nose is distinctly sour, I guess you would say sour red cherry. Over a day it does fill out a bit and offer some dried herbal notes as well, but the overall impression remains. The palate is quite sharp and short, angular red cherries and then nothing. I don't know if this is the "bio" influence or just the house style. Either way, there is much better out there at this price. (86 pts.) - 2018 Albert Mann Pinot Blanc Auxerrois - France, Alsace (10/17/2022)
Second last bottle from a six pack. Pleasingly bottled under screw cap. This is a lovely wine for the price (around €12 I think). On the nose there is citrus, some honey suckle and some rounder pear like fruit which carries through to the palate. Nice acidity. Very drinkable as an aperitif or with food. (90 pts.) - 2017 Château Cos Labory - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (10/17/2022)
Medium bodied claret, which shows classic Bdx character and is drinking well right now. Decent length and balance. Should hold for several years but probably not for the very long term. Acceptable value around €28. (89 pts.) - 2019 Daniel Bouland Morgon Les Délys - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (10/15/2022)
Just a quick impression to update but this is drinking very nicely. Sweet red and purple fruits, nice balance. (92 pts.) - 2018 Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes-Hermitage Les Trois Chênes - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (10/13/2022)
Final bottle from a six pack consumed over the last couple of years. This is showing a little bit of development with just a touch of leather coming through the fruit, but remains pretty fresh and well defined. Still drinking very well and should age nicely for a few more years. Remains excellent value. (92 pts.) - 2020 Pierre Vidal Côtes du Rhône Villages Sans l'Ombre du Soufre - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages (10/11/2022)
Gorgeously fresh, clean and sweet red wine for every day bistro style drinking. Very pure despite the Bio assurances (no natural wine taint here). For about €8 its a great easy going wine. (87 pts.) - 2016 Château Corbin Montagne-St. Émilion - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Montagne-St. Émilion (10/11/2022)
I have had a couple of bottles of this and it seems to me this is unobjectionable but not particularly exciting claret that is perhaps a year past its best already. Fairly cheap here in France, but you can do better at the same price. (86 pts.) - 2011 Mondot - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (10/10/2022)
Just a brief update but this continues to drink very well. Lovely mid-bodied Merlot dominant claret. Still fruit led with a nice amound of development. No rush to drink up. (92 pts.) - 2020 Aurore de Dauzac - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (10/10/2022)
This is a 65/35 Cab/Merlot blend. In the glass it presents a bright purple red colour, and the nose is equally vibrant. Lots of ripe blackcurrant and cassis fruit and a touch of oak... overall quite fresh. Fairly fleshy and ripe on the palate as well. This is drinking well now as a young wine and should easily cellar to the mid-term but I doubt it has the structure for long-term aging. Valuewise it feels OK around €22. (90 pts.) - 2021 Cave de Mazenay Rully 1er Cru Marissou - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Rully 1er Cru (10/10/2022)
Quite pale yellow. Citrus notes lead the nose, followed by a gentler nectarine like element. Smells very fresh and clean. In the mouth this is quite angular with good acidity and fresh citrus fruit flavours. Enjoyable and decent value around €18. (88 pts.) - 2014 Gaec du Lautaret Cornas Emotion - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (10/8/2022)
Quite a pleasant medium bodied Cornas, with red to dark fruits, a touch of leather, and a bit of earthy development. Didn't really hold up on the second day suggesting it may be time to start thinking about drinking these. Overall, a decent effort for sub-€30. (90 pts.) - 2019 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Langhe Riesling Era ORA - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (10/8/2022)
A discount offer at Eataly prompted me to try this, albeit at €22 it remains far from cheap for what it is. This is recognisable as varietal riesling, with lemon/lime citrus notes and a bit of toasty, kero development. Reminds me more of a secondary region Aussie rizza than anything German or Alsatian. Overall, not bad, but certainly over priced. c87 pts. (87 pts.) - 2021 Famille Bougrier Touraine-Chenonceaux Confidences - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Touraine-Chenonceaux (10/8/2022)
Typically fresh and clean Touraine, with abundant but not overt fruit and crisp acidity. Excellent easy drinking wine that represents good value. (87 pts.) - 2021 O. et H. Bour Grignan-les-Adhémar l'instant Croquant... - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Grignan-les-Adhémar (10/8/2022)
Decent albeit fairly generic soft blend of Syrah and Grenache. Lacks a little depth and acidity to score higher, but not bad for the fairly cheap price. Unobjectionable, but you can probably find better at the same price point. (86 pts.) - 2021 Collin-Bourisset Moulin-à-Vent des Hospices - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent (10/5/2022)
No formal notes but this is lovely Moulin a Vent and for €10 from a random Carrefour the value is exceptional. Highly recommended for easy drinking pleasure. (90 pts.) - 2020 Les Domaines Paul Mas Coteaux du Languedoc Château Paul Mas Clos des Mûres - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc (10/5/2022)
Just a quick impression but this was a really lovely, super drinkable Languedoc which for c€10 represents excellent value. Ripe fruits but no lack of balance. Enjoyable. (89 pts.) - 2021 Domaine Bergeron Juliénas - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Juliénas (10/5/2022)
This bottle is labelled "Tradition" - not sure if this is a different wine or possibly just the Monoprix bottling designation? Either way this is lovely Gamay, lots of pure sweet red and purple fruits and nice balance. Super drinkable and good value. (89 pts.) - 2020 Jean Tatraux & Fils Givry 1er Cru La Grande Berge - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Givry 1er Cru (10/5/2022)
This was my second last bottle from a six pack. This is fairly ripe burgundy with quite dark fruits and fairly full on the palate. Lacks the guile and acid balance of better examples. While the value looks OK for a 1er cru designation (around €19), I think there are better wines from the region for the same money or less. (87 pts.) - 2021 Gérard Bertrand Sauvignon Vin de Pays d'Oc Autrement - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Vin de Pays d'Oc (10/5/2022)
For €6 this is pretty pleasant, crisp and easy going SavB. Won't live long in the memory but no complaints. (85 pts.) - 2019 Château de Chantegrive Graves - France, Bordeaux, Graves (9/30/2022)
Mid red. Pleasantly enticing nose of cool to mid red fruit. A little vanilla and cedar as well. Quite good complexity and nice definition. Holds up well even open for a few days. Excellent value especially on special at Monoprix for c€11. (88 pts.) - 2021 Gérard Bertrand Chardonnay Vin de Pays d'Oc Autrement - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Vin de Pays d'Oc (9/30/2022)
Pretty fresh and clean Chardonnay. Crisp fruit flavours. Decent acidity. Not bad for €8, even if it lacks any real character. (86 pts.) - 2019 Château Balaurin - France, Bordeaux, Graves (9/29/2022)
This is 80/20 Merlot and Cab. The nose shows mulberry fruit and a distinct barnyard character which eases up with more air. Medium bodied with decent character. Very drinkable and smashing value around €7. (87 pts.) - 2017 Château Sociando-Mallet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc (9/29/2022)
Just a quick impression but this was very pleasant drinking. Red berries, a little cool but not too green, some spice. Drinking well at the moment though clearly no rush to finish them off. - 2004 Château de Suronde Anjou - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Anjou (9/28/2022)
Just had a second bottle of this, with similar thoughts to the last note I made in January, although this bottle was perhaps slightly fresher. Very interesting and enjoyable wine for €15. (87 pts.) - 2021 Plou et fils Malbec Heritage - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (9/27/2022)
Gorgeously fresh and balanced malbec with far more red fruit and crunchy acidity character than you might expect if more familiar with the Cahors or Argentinian examples. Interesting and food friendly wine. (90 pts.) - 2019 Château Clarisse - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux (9/27/2022)
Unfortunately I didn't make a formal note on this one which was recommended by a very good new independent wine store in Paris but this was excellent. Classical Bdx style. Very drinkable. From the lesser fancied sub region the value is perhaps questionable but the wine largely backs up the price tag. (89 pts.) - 2019 Château La Garde - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (9/27/2022)
This strikes me like a fairly typical Pessac type wine- slightly cooler, less ripe red berries than some other parts of Bdx. Decent acidity. Lacks a touch of real character but quite drinkable and for sub-20 euros this is excellent value. (89 pts.) - 2021 Domaine du Val Hulin Saumur Chenin - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (9/27/2022)
Just a quick note. This is a surprisingly zippy, acidic Chenin. Quite bright fruit. Good with food. Decent value. (86 pts.) - 2019 Dominique Guyon Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (9/27/2022)
Just a quick impression but this was pretty sound entry level Burgundy for around €20. - 2019 Maison Albert Bichot Montagny 1er Cru Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Montagny 1er Cru (9/23/2022)
The nose on this offers a mix of rounder stone fruit and sharper grapefruit type character. The palate is fairly full and round but with appealing driving acidity as well. I often think Montagny is a source of great value Burgundy whites and this is no exception being under €20 in a Monoprix foire aux vins offer. Delicious. (89 pts.) - 2021 Gérard Bertrand Chardonnay Solar 6 - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Cévennes (9/22/2022)
Pleasant fairly full flavoured Chardonnay with decent balance and cleansing acidity on the palate. Good value. (87 pts.) - 2019 Christophe Perrin Mâcon Chapaize - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon (9/21/2022)
Just a quick impression but this is a pleasant, soft, fleshy red for easy drinking. Pretty fair value. (86 pts.) - 2011 Château Lalande-Borie - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (9/19/2022)
Just a quick impression. This is a slightly lean, red berried style. A touch green as well. Not bad, maybe a bit over priced. (87 pts.) - 2018 Two Hands Shiraz Tenacity Old Vine - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley (9/19/2022)
I think this is the last of a six pack. It's a blend of McLaren Vale and Barossa fruit. Presents as fairly typical old vine SA Shiraz. Thankfully not too OTT. Decent value over here around €12 which feels a fair price. (87 pts.) - 2019 Bodegas Protos Ribera del Duero Protos 27 - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (9/16/2022)
Deep red. Quite fresh on the nose with dark cherry and gentle plum notes. A touch of vanillin as well, and some cedary oak. Fairly fleshy and fruit forward on the palate. As always this label delivers. (91 pts.) - 2020 Labouré-Roi Mâcon Rouge - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon (9/16/2022)
This is a slightly unusual mix of pinot and gamay and presents as you might expect- sweet red and dark fruits, a touch of green and soft fleshy palate. Pretty decent. (87 pts.) - 2021 Gérard Bertrand Languedoc Source of Joy - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc (9/16/2022)
Seems like a fairly decent rose, perhaps slightly sweeter than I prefer but I feel this was slightly corked so I will hold judgement until I see another bottle. NR (flawed) - 2021 Camille Meyer Riesling Vieilles Vignes - France, Alsace (9/14/2022)
While this may not be the most profound reisling, it is a pretty solid expression of a dry, zippy style of Alsace with lime toned fruit and crisp acidity. The value at below €6 is exceptional. (87 pts.) - 2021 Domaine des Brulets Brouilly - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Brouilly (9/14/2022)
This is a great value entry level Brouilly with plenty of soft, fleshy red fruit flavours and decent acidity. Priced around €6-7 you can't go too far wrong. (86 pts.) - 2020 Tenuta Olim Bauda Barbera d'Asti La Villa - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d'Asti (9/9/2022)
No formal notes but a pretty classic Barbera. Recommended if the price is fair. (87 pts.) - 2018 Domaine du Clos des Fées Vieilles Vignes - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (9/6/2022)
This is a producer I always like and this wine is no exception. Fairly full bodied sweet red fruits but held in excellent balance. No stewed or cooked flavours. Good acidity. Medium term cellaring potential. 90-92 pts (90 pts.) - 2020 Domaine des Sables Verts Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (9/3/2022)
Bright purple red. Intense raspberry and dark fruit on the nose. On the palate this is really juicy with gobs of red and dark fruit and pleasant acidity. This is the type of wine you have to say is just so drinkable. (91 pts.) - 2018 Montes Carménère Alpha - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley (9/1/2022)
Deep red colour. Intense fresh nose dominated by plum and mulberry type notes, with just a touch of a capsicum like spicy/green element. The 12 months of French oak is clear on the palate but doesn't dominate. Overall a pretty impressive, structured and layered wine. Enjoyable. (91 pts.) - 2020 Château Cavalier Côtes de Provence Grand Cavalier - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence (9/1/2022)
This is priced around the same level as the Miraval and the mid-level Minuty, which is some fierce competition. This is a slightly darker colour than those peers, but the nose and palate are pleasingly dry. Nice fresh strawberry fruit character and pretty decent acidity. Enjoyable but is it worth €18 standard price? Questionable. (88 pts.) - 2009 Alpha Box & Dice Mistress - Australia, South Australia (9/1/2022)
Very unfortunately this bottle, purchased on release at the cellar door had a perfect looking cork that had nevertheless fallen victim of TCA. Just about drinkable in small doses, this looks like it might have been pleasant in a sweet, ripe style without the taint. C'est la vie. NR NR (flawed)