Grand Cru Tasting Group (Perth) – Sangiovese

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

Apparently, the name Sangiovese is from the Latin sanguis Jovis, "the blood of Jupiter". Certainly, Sangiovese wines have been made since Roman times.

While central Italy is the historical home of the grape, it has spread to other continents, including South America and Australia. There's even Sangiovese wines coming from our Perth hills these days.
So, for the purposes of this tasting, we looked at Sangiovese - straight or blends. Many Chianti and other Tuscan wines have small amounts of other red varieties blended in.

By the way, “tenuta” means “estate” in Italian. This appears in some of the winery names. “Maremma” is the western part of Tuscany along the coast.

As usual, the wines were tasted blind, from youngest to oldest.

Castello di Albola Chianti Classico 2019 : (Radda in Chianti, Tuscany, Italy): Ruby in colour, and noticeably darker than the two other 2019’s we tasted. The nose is predominantly earthy, with dark cherries, and liquorice / aniseed. There’s a very savoury palate – some leather – and sour cherry. Acid is moderate, and tannins are modest. The wine finishes a little short, and one taster reckoned this would be good slightly chilled.

Ravensworth Sangiovese 2019 (Murrumbateman, Australia): Garnet in colour. Some earthiness, some cherry and chocolate, strawberries and a little coffee. On the palate, the red fruits are slightly tart (like rhubarb) and contrast with the savoury notes. Tannins are modest and the group considered the wine to be unbalanced.

Ravensworth Sangiovese 2019 (Murrumbateman, Australia): Yes, the same wine, but a different bottle, and what a difference! Garnet in colour. Bright red cherries, cocoa powder, fresh strawberries and baking spices on the nose. The palate had juicy red fruits, good supporting acid, moderately grippy tannins, some coconut and savoury notes. Medium finish and length, and considered to be balanced with good structure. Well regarded by the group.

Carpineto Chianti Classico 2018 (Tuscany, Italy): Ruby in colour. Sour and fresh cherries on the nose, with leather, tar, meatiness, and sausage fat. The sour cherry follows through to the palate, with liquorice, leather, struck match and savoury notes. There’s good supporting acid, and reasonable length – and a touch of VA. This is a bigger (by comparison) wine and would be good with food.

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Tenuta Sassoregale Sangiovese 2018 (Maremma Toscana): Ruby / garnet in colour. Some menthol or camphor on the nose, dried apricot and balsamic vinegar. The palate is sharp, acidic and the only discernible fruit was maraschino cherry. Short finish and possibly a faulty bottle.

Tonon Sangiovese 2018 (Bickley Valley, Western Australia): Ruby / garnet. The nose wasn’t particularly fruity, instead showing leather and camphor. However, the palate was much more expressive, with leather, lots of fresh and maraschino cherry, umami, and black olives. The acid is in balance, and tannins are grippy. Slightly syrupy, and a very slightly astringent finish. Well regarded by the group.

Tenuta di Arceno Chianti Classico 2018 (Siena, Tuscany): Ruby in colour. The nose has lots of red cherry, some leather, and savoury notes. The palate has more red cherry, redcurrant and red fruits generally. Good palate weight, grippy tannins and a medium finish. Well regarded by the group and may age well.

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Carpe Diem Decantato 2017 (Margaret River, Western Australia): a blend – 50% Sangiovese, 40% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. This would be an IGT in Italy. Ruby bordering on crimson. The nose was prominent, and jumping out of the glass. It’s ferrous (blood) and meaty, and this flows through to the palate. There’s mulberry and savoury notes and a slight spritz. Acid is tart and tannins are prominent, and we suspect this might be faulty.

Tenuta Sassoregale “Poderalta” 2016 (Maremma Toscana): The next level up from the earlier wine from the same producer. Crimson in colour (in fact, we noted that the older wines were darker than the younger wines). The nose shows smoky oak, developed cherry cola, raspberry, dark fruits and chocolate. The palate shows under-ripe mulberry, meaty / umami notes and one taster noted “wood chips from a grass tree” – something they won’t have experienced in Toscana! Good supporting acid, moderate tannins, and a reasonably long finish with a slight touch of astringency. Highly regarded by the group.

Terre Natuzzi Chiani Classico Reserva 2016 (Toscana): Crimson. The nose has quite intense cherry cola, some tar and smoky oak – and some banana lollies. The palate was described by one taster as rye bread or dark cereals. There’s quite juicy fruits good supporting acid, leading to a medium finish.

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Wine of the night (on countback) was the Tenuta Sassoregale “Poderalta” 2016.

It’s a shame we didn’t have a few older examples – personally, I prefer my Sangiovese with a few years on them and I believe they take a couple of years to start showing anywhere near their potential (I’m talking Tuscan wines here, not necessarily Australian). There were some good wines here, but none that had the “wow” factor (well, not yet, anyway).

Cheers
Allan

[Mahmoud Ali]

Thanks for the notes Allan. I agree with you about Sangiovese with age. Among the ones you sampled the Carpineto is the only one I've had before but it was a riserva. In my collection though are a couple of '07 Arceno Riserva and an '88 d'Albola that is a Vino di Tavola, in effect an IGT.

Cheers ......................... Mahmoud.

[Con J]

Hi Allan.

Thanks for the write up, I like Sangiovese. but not a lot of experience with local stuff.

I notice you always taste youngest to oldest, I always go oldest to youngest.

Cheers Con.

[Waiters Friend]

Hi Allan.

I notice you always taste youngest to oldest, I always go oldest to youngest.

Cheers Con.

Interesting, Con. May I ask why?

Cheers
Allan