The Auswine Forum

I realised I never posted my March/April tasting notes, et donc voilà...

Seems I didn't hit too many high points this period. A couple of reliable Beajolais', some good bubbles and Pinot I have had before. One intriguing Languedoc wine made in the new world style by an American (2017 Department 66 Others).

But, if I had to call something out in particular, it would definitely be the two Fil·loxera & Cía Valencia wines... some of the most interesting and unusual juice I have had in a long time. Worth seeking out (if you like wines on the more savoury / acid based / natural spectrum).

On the flip side, the main negative would be the very disappointing start to a mixed six pack of Priorat, with several wines showing too much alcohol and too much confected fruit (a couple were better, notes to follow next month).

• 2018 Simonnet-Febvre Espirit de Lyre Auxerrois - France, Burgundy, Côtes d'Auxerre, Coteaux de l'Auxois (4/29/2021)
  This is 100% Auxerrois (a close sibling to Chardonnay but not precisely Chardonnay) from 25 year old vines and sees no oak. Mid yellow in the glass, you could definitely believe from the nose this was chardonnay. Ripe nectarine/peach, lemon pith, and apricot as well. Plenty of fruit character. On the palate the same carries through but falls a little flat, veering towards tropical fruit salad, although the acidity just about pulls it off. Pretty drinkable. 86-87pts. (86 pts.)
• 2019 Mommessin Fleurie - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (4/28/2021)
  Bright red. Fleshy, vibrant red fruits on the nose and on the palate. Some more purple fruit and floral notes as well. Nice acid balance. Reasonably dense in the mouth as well. More dark fruit than red lollies let’s say, and soft, gentle tannins to close. Very enjoyable and good value. 87-88pts (88 pts.)
• 2018 Familia Nin-Ortiz Priorat Planetes de Nin - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (4/26/2021)
  This looks to be approx 70% Grenache and 30% Carignan. Deep purple red. On the nose, this shows a lot of what I call "sugary" Grenache fruit, but there is a slightly denser, more "garrigue" note as well. Sweet red fruit on the palate, finishing a little short and slightly porty. Not bad, but not really my cup o' tea (especially at this price point). (87 pts.)
• 2019 Vinos Sanz Rueda Finca La Colina - Spain, Castilla y León, Rueda (4/24/2021)
  Vines planted in 1980. Kinda expensive for a Spanish Sav B, a variety which seems to pop up (Torres does a pricey one I recall) but which isn’t really synonymous with Spain. Glowing yellow/green. First sniff... wow pungent. Ok I’ll be honest it’s probably not a massive achievement but this is the best Sav Blanc I’ve had in a long time. I’ve been drinking quite a few from the Loire lately which are nice but seem to have the main achievement of only just resembling SB. This is much more varietal. Loads of gooseberry, tropical fruit, asparagus, cats pee, and capsicum. Fresh and zippy on the palate. Reminds me of some of the better kiwi examples, although value wise at €14ish you can probably do better down there. (90 pts.)
• 2019 Jacques Depagneux Morgon Côte du Py Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (4/22/2021)
  Cote du Py is of course a well known lieu-dit within Morgon. Hard to know too much more about this wine since the producer's website is a barrage of different labeling, multiple wines/domaines, all amid clunky web design. They don't make the cut for the 2021 LewinGuide to the region either. Still this puts a pretty good face forward, especially for c€10. In the darker fruited end of the spectrum for the region (think more dark cherries than red lollies) with a reasonable tannic grip as well. Drinks nicely, but may well improve over 2-3 years. 87-88pts. (87 pts.)
• 2019 Bodegas Julián Chivite Las Fincas Rosado - Spain, Navarra (4/22/2021)
  No formal notes. Crisp, refreshing but not particularly memorable. Nice packaging. (86 pts.)
• 2017 Domaine du Saut de L'Aigue Coteaux du Languedoc Mas du Novi - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc (4/19/2021)
  Only a short note but this was lovely. Sweet, juicy fruit and nice crisp acidity. Perfect mid week easy drinking red, good on its own or with food. (88 pts.)
• 2015 Mas d'en Gil Priorat Coma Vella - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (4/19/2021)
  Mid red. The color is fine but this is immediately all over the shop on the nose. Soupy red fruits, over ripe porty Grenache lolly characters and an out of place vanillin note which could be from the oak? I will pop half the bottle in the fridge and see if it finds some freshness tomorrow but if not this is remarkably disappointing for the price. (86 pts.)
• 2017 Clos Cibonne Tibouren Côtes de Provence Rosé Cuvée Prestige Caroline - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence (4/18/2021)
  Deep salmon color. This is a very dry and refined style of rose, with notes of strawberry and orange blossom. Clean and precise on the palate. Pretty impressive juice. (90 pts.)
• 2018 Château d'Epiré Savennières Le Parc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières (4/16/2021)
  Pale green-tinged yellow. A bit restrained on the nose. Light citrus, a touch floral. Quite crisp on the palate. Overall, this strikes me as a perfectly fine wine but a bit unexpressive. Maybe better with a bit more age? (87 pts.)
• NV Herederos de Argüeso Manzanilla San León Reserva de la Familia - Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda (4/15/2021)
  This bottle is “the reserve” of the winery and bottled “en rama”, I assume the 2020 batch. Almost golden in color, but not particularly dark, this is quite beguiling on the nose (for any lover of sherry at least). There is a nutty richness, but some quite fresh notes as well, and a certain salinity. Complex but briskly refreshing on the palate, with a lingering moreish finish. Lovely wine and great value c€15 for a full bottle. (92 pts.)
• 2019 Vintae Toro Matsu El Recio - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (4/15/2021)
  A perennial favorite of mine, this takes a bit of air and then really opens up. Deep red, this has an abundance of dark fleshy red fruits on the nose. Very ripe but also quite clean and balanced. Red fruits and a bit of choc vanilla on the palate. Smooth, but with noticeable grip to the tannin. Approachable now for sure but probably better in a couple of years. (91 pts.)
• 2019 Enate Chardonnay Somontano 234 - Spain, Aragón, Somontano (4/14/2021)
  Mid yellow, flecked with green. Boisterous but slightly broad on the nose- lots of furry apricot and peach characters. "A wine that breaks the traditional image of fragility that Spanish white wines often carry" says the winery website. Rightio then. This doesn't see any oak, yet there is a sort of woodsy note I can't quite place. Ripe and full on the palate, with quite sweet peach but reasonable acidity keeping it from being too blowsy. Good value for c€8. (87 pts.)
• 2016 Maison Albert Bichot Pommard Clos des Ursulines Domaine du Pavillon - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard (4/11/2021)
  Second bottle from a three pack. Similar notes to last December. This is a really powerful style, belying the five years of bottle age. Bright red color. Deep nose of red and dark fruit. Quite primary. Open for a couple of days it starts to unveil more nuanced notes of cherry and spice, while the palate remains firm with lively acidity and quite firm tannins. I need to try and leave the third bottle for at least a couple of years if I can, I think the best of this is awhile off yet. (92 pts.)
• NV G. H. Mumm & Cie Champagne Grand Cru Maison Mumm RSRV Cuvée 4.5 - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (4/10/2021)
  Initially bottled in 2013 and disgorged in 2019. Mid yellow. Lively mousse. Powerful nose. Plenty of bright citrus character. Nice length. Pretty decent wine. (92 pts.)
• 2018 Vignerons des Terres Secrètes Saint Véran - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Saint Véran (4/9/2021)
  This particular wine is labelled "Au Grand Bussiere". Mid yellow, flecked with green. Quite rich on the nose, with ripe peach/apricot, cashew, bacon fat and citrus. This carries through on the palate, which had good weight. A nice fuller bodied style of Chardonnay, good value. (87 pts.)
• 2019 Domaine Millet Petit Chablis La Perle de Millet - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Petit Chablis (4/7/2021)
  Pretty similar view to the last bottle of this. The nose has bright citrus, grapefruit pith, and lemon sherbet, with just a touch of minerality. Clean and crisp in the mouth, but on the palate what lets this down is the acidity, which just sticks out too much. Might improve with the right food match- perhaps lightly creamy seafood- which the acidity could complement. (87 pts.)
• 2019 Daniel Bouland Chiroubles Chatenay - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Chiroubles (4/6/2021)
  I think this is my second from a half dozen. Bright purple red. Seems to me more fleshy and sweet fruited on the nose- more youthfully winsome if you will- than the 2019 Morgon cuvees of the same producer. Certainly it’s a very pretty wine with lots of bright Gamay fruit character. Still there is good definition here and quite distinct acidity. Maybe even better given at least another year or two. (91 pts.)
• 2014 Vieux Château Palon - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Montagne-St. Émilion (4/5/2021)
  A blend of 80pc merlot and 20pc cab franc. Still quite deep red, initially this impresses with its freshness. Plenty of merlot plum and mulberry fruit, maybe even a touch of chocolate as well. Only the faintest green hint. In the mouth there is plenty of red fruit character, maybe a touch thin in the mid palate before closing with surprisingly firm tannins. I think this is pretty darn good for c€20, not sure why others scored quite so low. (90 pts.)
• 2017 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (4/4/2021)
  This is Grenache dominant with about 10pc each of Syrah and Mourvèdre and a small percent of a couple of the other allowed varieties. Bright garnet red, this has a lovely nose showing classic structured Grenache fruit. Deep red fruits and spice with quite good purity and definition. Juicy red fruit on the palate followed by quite grippy tannins. Pretty decent, and good value around €25. 91-92pts. (91 pts.)
• 2019 Domaine de Colonat Brouilly Clos Reisser - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Brouilly (4/3/2021)
  Light to mid red. Simple but fresh and juicy red fruits on the nose. Soft and fleshy on the palate. Pleasant easy drinking without the substance or definition of the best wines from the region. 86-87pts (86 pts.)
• 2010 Château d'Aiguilhe Querre - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux (4/2/2021)
  Not a producer I knew, random find on the shelf at Monoprix today. Apparently 80/20 Merlot/Cab Franc with 18 months in oak, of which 60% new. Quite deep red still, and quite vibrant on the nose. The influence of the oak is still clear, with deep mulberry/plum and a touch of varnish. There is a typical green Cab Franc character as well. Still youthful and fruit driven on the palate, with slightly gritty tannins to close. Decent little wine and great value. Should hold for a few years at least. (89 pts.)
• 2019 Le Cartel Alicante-Henri Bouschet Corbières - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Corbières (4/2/2021)
  A very unusual wine which claims to be from a unique hybrid of Alicante and Grenache Noir. Wild yeast fermentation and no oak in the production. Very spicy red berry nose- quite unique. Feels a bit natural as well. Fresh and angular in the mouth with pretty firm acid. Really interesting wine but not my bag frankly. (86 pts.)
• 2019 Mimi en Provence Grande Réserve - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence (4/1/2021)
  Salmon pink. Dry and slightly tart on the nose, like just under ripe strawberry. Juicy red berries on the palate, with some fruit sweetness. Pretty decent and good value <€10. 86-87pts. (87 pts.)
• 2019 Les Vignerons Ardèchois Viognier Les Classiques - France, Rhône, Ardèche (3/31/2021)
  Mid yellow. Unmistakable grape variety on the nose with plenty of ripe apricot. Reasonable balance on the palate, with just a touch of grip. Good value. (86 pts.)
• 2020 Château Miraval Studio by Miraval Rosé - France, Provence, Mediterranée (3/30/2021)
  Very pale light pink. Dry, beguiling nose of gentle rose and light strawberry. Crisp and refreshing on the palate. Excellent balance and great value for €8.95 from Franprix. (87 pts.)
• 2017 Department 66 Others - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes (3/28/2021)
  A Roussillon winery started by a Napa wine maker which explains the striking but not very French packaging. This is some blend of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah and Mourvèdre and sees maybe a third or thereabouts new French oak for 18 months, but technical details are otherwise scarce. And wow, this is a blockbuster wine for those who go for the style. Ripe, ripe fruit, almost verging on porty (as evidenced by the >15pc alcohol). Dark plum, chocolate, vanilla. Just about stays on the fresh side of over ripe. I have to confess despite its brute force trumping its elegance I enjoy this, but it won’t be for everyone. (92 pts.)
• 2018 Jean Bouchard Chablis 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (3/26/2021)
  From grapes on clay/limestone soil, vinified in temperature controlled steel this then spends some time in oak, a small proportion of it new. Pale yellow/green. Nice precision to the nose. Notes of citrus, ripe peach/apricot, with a bit of minerality as well. Vibrant acidity on the palate. Good depth of citrus driven flavour. Really impressive for <€17. I suspect will improve over a year or so and drink well for up to five years. (91 pts.)
• 2017 Château Cantenac Brown BriO - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (3/25/2021)
  Second wine of Catenac Brown. Cabernet dominant blend. Deep red color. Quite glossy red fruits at first. With more air there are some lighter red berries, pencil shavings, and just a touch of undergrowth. On the palate this is dense and ripe, but somehow the flavors just fall a bit off- almost like sour blackberry. Not bad but not particularly impressive either. Maybe give it another year or two, since the structure is clearly there to last for the mid term. (87 pts.)
• 2015 Marcel Cabelier Chardonnay Côtes du Jura Vieilles Vignes - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (3/23/2021)
  Classic Jura Chardonnay nose. Sharp citrus, hazelnut, and a certain creaminess. Just a touch of oxidation showing. Carries through on the palate which finishes crisp with good acidity and just a touch of sherry-like character. Very decent for c€8. (87 pts.)
• 2019 Jean François Mérieau Touraine Cent Visages - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (3/21/2021)
  Bright purple red. Quite intriguing nose. Almost a raspberry huddle gum like character. Deeper plum emerges as well but overall the cast of the fruit does go a bit towards the sweet end of the spectrum. Juicy, fleshy red fruits on the palate. Pretty darn enjoyable even if it isn’t the most cerebral type of wine. (87 pts.)
• 2009 Château La Cardonne - France, Bordeaux, Médoc (3/20/2021)
  Mid red. Nice blackcurrant fruit on the nose still. Quite fresh despite the age and coming from a supermarket shelf. There is a bit of structure as well and some leafy green notes. Surprisingly good for the price (<€16). No rush but I would tend to drink up soonish. (87 pts.)
• 2020 Domaine Olivella Biancu Gentile - France, Corsica, Île de Beauté (3/19/2021)
  Incredibly fresh and drinkable, almost too drinkable. Zippy and refreshing. Would be brilliant as a crisp easy drinking white over the coming, warmer months. (87 pts.)
• 2011 Duluc de Branaire-Ducru - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (3/16/2021)
  One glass at a work lunch. On opening this was a bit reticent and dusty, but with air I was pleasantly surprised as much fresher red berries and spice emerged. Enjoyable claret, I would be happy to drink now although I didn’t see a need to rush to drink up. (88 pts.)
• 2018 Château Ricotte - France, Bordeaux, Graves (3/16/2021)
  Merlot dominant. Mid red. Pleasant lifted mulberry type nose. Good definition and juicy fruit on the palate. Unobjectionable if unmemorable. (86 pts.)
• 2018 Pierre Jean Villa Viognier Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Primavera - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes (3/15/2021)
  Bright yellow. Typical viognier apricot on the nose, but also a more distinctive flora musk type character which really comes through on the palate as well. Nice ripe fruit, not too much grip... but maybe lacks a touch of acid at the back to score higher. Not bad. (87 pts.)
• 2018 Fil·loxera & Cía Valencia La Mujer Caballo naranja - Spain, Valencia (3/12/2021)
  We often speak of orange wines, well this is definitely orange. I don't like natural wines, I have said it many times. People say "if you hunt you find gems" but I don't like the low hit rate. That said, wow. On the nose there is no sherried/vinegar notes, instead the wine speaks to me of flowers, hay, and muscat "grapey" notes. The palate has grip and definition, with almost red berry like characters, along with a musk like note. Singular. Won't be everyone's cup of tea, but this works for me. (92 pts.)
• 2016 L'Ostal Cazes Minervois-La Livinière Grand Vin - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Minervois-La Livinière (3/12/2021)
  This is a blend of 70pc Syrah, 15pc Carignan, 10pc Grenache and 5pc Mourvedre, which sees 15 months in French oak. Still dense purple, on the nose this shows ripe purple fruit. Stewed plums, a touch of raisin. But there is a vibrancy still, it’s not entirely cooked in flavor. Sweet dark fruit and plush gentle tannins in the mouth. More reminiscent of a ripe new world Syrah than anything from the Rhône say, but I don’t dislike this. (89 pts.)
• 2019 Les Eclaireurs Sauvignon Blanc Touraine - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (3/11/2021)
  Fresh and zippy white, showing typical Sav Blanc gooseberry and riper tropical fruit flavour. Decent acid balance. Easy drinking wine, decent value around €8. (86 pts.)
• 2019 Joseph Mellot Sancerre La Bardine - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre (3/11/2021)
  Now bottled or made as a Menetou-Salon. Mid yellow. A bit reserved on the nose. Some typical sav blanc character but also a touch of citrus or a more acidic note. A hint of pineapple as well? The palate is not objectively faulty but falls flat. Just a bit all over the place frankly. (84 pts.)
• 2018 Hecht & Bannier Languedoc - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc (3/9/2021)
  Mid yellow. Fresh and appealing nose with some ripe fruit salad, light apricot and citrus. A slight oily character as well. Broad tropical and stone fruit on the palate. Quite nice balance. Pretty darn good for the price. (87 pts.)
• 2015 Les Hauts de Smith - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (3/7/2021)
  Still quite dense and unrevealing at first. With air there is ripe blackberry notes on the nose, while the palate offers slightly simple juicy fruit with quite solid tannins. I would continue to give this more time and hope it unfolds into something better. (90 pts.)
• 2019 Château de Berne Côtes de Provence Grande Récolte by Ida Sjöstedt - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence (3/7/2021)
  Very light pale pink. Very dry with a gentle strawberry character and crisp acidity. Delightful and good value. (87 pts.)
• 2014 Château Bouscaut - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (3/6/2021)
  Mid red. Quite structured on the nose. Dusty red berries, cedar, cassis, a touch of green. Cool red fruits on the palate with a touch of vanilla and gently fuzzy tannins. Pretty impressive and right in my wheel house. Drinks well now, but no great rush. (93 pts.)
• 2019 Enrique Mendoza Chardonnay Alicante Fermentado en Barrica - Spain, Valencia, Alicante (3/6/2021)
  Quite typical Chardonnay profile. Ripe stone fruit, melon and clear oak character. Pretty decent for the price. (86 pts.)
• 2018 Château de la Mulonniere - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur (3/5/2021)
  Mid yellow. Simple stone fruit and a touch of citrus on the nose. On the palate this is unobjectionable but a bit simple, with some ripe stone fruit and reasonable acidity. Fine, but it doesn't move me. (86 pts.)
• 2019 Domaine Dhommé Savennières LES FOUGERAIS - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières (3/2/2021)
  Bio wine, made from chenin grapes grown on schist and quartz. Fermentation is in barrel using indigenous yeasts. Pale yellow in the glass, this is very fine and aromatic on the nose, with hints of cut citrus, white florals and just a touch of stone fruit. Light on its feet in the mouth, with lemon and nectarine and plenty of zippy acidity. Drinks well now as an aperitif, the winery says it can age for 5-10yrs - would be interesting to see, the acidity is certainly there, perhaps it will gather a certain richness with time? (91 pts.)
• 2019 Domaine Dubost Moulin-à-Vent Les Burdelines - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent (3/2/2021)
  I think this is the fifth bottle from a six pack, no notes taken before now. Mid red. Some light and confected red berries on the nose, but a bit of funk as well, with some violets or purple flowers too. Juicy fruits on the palate which finishes just a tad short. Still punches above its weight at around €10-12. Perfect easy drinking bistro wine for the next 1-3 years. (87 pts.)
• 2016 Château des Ferrages Côtes de Provence Sainte Victoire Collection Esquirol - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence (2/28/2021)
  Dark red. “This wine has seen some sun” was the comment of one taster and I think it puts it well. Very ripe, with quite a bit of alcohol on the nose. Fruits trend more to dark and even a little bit raisined. The palate is more even but overall I am not sure about the balance of this wine. Second of a three pack so let’s see what the last one looks like. (88 pts.)
• 2018 Centopassi Sicilia Terre Rosse di Giabbascio - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia (2/28/2021)
  Bright yellow. A melange of stone fruit and citrus on the nose. Quite round and reasonably full on the palate. Decent if not especially memorable. (87 pts.)
• 2019 Fil·loxera & Cía Valencia La Mujer Caballo azul - Spain, Valencia (2/26/2021)
  Single vineyard, rare variety... can’t find out much more than that. Very pale red. Exceptionally pure and fragrant on the nose. There is red berries, floral notes, and a touch of darker undergrowth hiding underneath. Juicy red fruits on the palate, this has only 12pc abv and is all the better for it. Lovely balance. Nice packaging as well. Impressive. (93 pts.)
• 2017 Bodegas Volver Monastrell Tarima Hill Old Vines - Spain, Valencia, Alicante (2/25/2021)
  On paper there is a lot here for the money- old vines, dry grown, low yields, natural yeasts and 14 months in predominantly new French oak. In the glass it is a deep red colour. The nose is vibrant with red and dark fruit and vanilla, but with air a more raisin like or porty note appears (perhaps not surprising given the 15pc NAV). The palate is ripe and full bodied with lots of sweet fruit and vanillin oak adding a fairly grippy layer of tannin. Excellent value for drinking now to 3+ years. (90 pts.)
• 2018 Château de l'Hyvernière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine sur lie - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine sur lie (2/25/2021)
  Pale green/yellow. Bright and zippy on the nose, with citrus, cut grass and a typical slightly grapey note. Fresh and clean on the palate, finishing nicely crisp and with an almost saline note. Delicious easy drinking and great value. (87 pts.)
• 2019 Daniel Bouland Morgon Les Délys - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (2/22/2021)
  On the nose there is a melange of red and dark fruits, some traditional Beaujolais confection but really just at the edges, and a nice purple floral character. The palate opens with juicy but restrained red fruits before surprisingly firm, fuzzy tannins. This is serious Morgon, that will benefit from at least a few years in the cellar. Exceptional value at ~€16. 92+ pts. (92 pts.)

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