September/October 2020 Tasting Notes

[sjw_11]

Starting this thread again...

• 2014 Bodegas La Horra Ribera del Duero Corimbo I - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (10/4/2020)
  100% Tempranillo from 40+ year old vines. This sees 16 months of oak, mostly (80%) French. Mid red. Structured and layered on the nose. Red fruits, cedar, some bright cherry notes as well. With air it gathers freshness. The palate is wall to wall plush with red fruits and gentle, fleshy tannins. Very drinkable now but I am sure it will improve with a few more years. (92 pts.)
• 2016 Bodegas Los Astrales Ribera del Duero Astrales - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (9/29/2020)
  From 45 year old vines, this is hand sorted and sees eighteen months in mainly French oak. Mid red, purple flecked but not overly dense in hue. Classic fruit-driven Tempranillo nose, showing blood plum, cherry, and grilled meats. The winery suggests “balsamic and toasted notes” and that seems fair as well. Despite the alcohol (fifteen percent abv) this has a pleasing balance, avoiding the soupy nature of some Ribera’s, although there is definitely some more baked/dark fruit flavors on the finish. Overall, pretty decent. Perfectly fine to drink now, I am sure a couple more years at least will see improvement. (91 pts.)
• 2017 Domaine de Bellene Beaune 1er Cru Cuvée du Cinquantenaire Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru (9/28/2020)
  Mid red. On opening this is distinctly sour. Light red cherry, poky acidity, a bit of sous-bois. Over a couple of days this does unwind a bit and become more appealing, with some more pure red fruit notes, and a smooth, even, if somewhat short palate. Maybe it needs a bit more time to settle in? (Fair disclaimer as always I am not a Pinotphile so others who are may extract more enjoyment). (89 pts.)
• 2019 Martín Códax Albariño Rías Baixas - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas (9/27/2020)
  Clean, and fresh but not particularly distinctive. Zippy acidity. (86 pts.)
• 2018 Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes-Hermitage Les Trois Chênes - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (9/23/2020)
  100pc Syrah from vines 25-60 years old, but a producer founded in 2001. At least some of the blend sees up to 18 months in small oak, some “demi-muids”. Very vibrant dark purple. Boisterous almost extravagant nose with bright purple fruit, dark plum, violets, vanilla and a jubey, purple lolly like character. Ripe purple fruits dominate the palate opening, followed by fleshy tannins. At the €18/bottle I paid this represents exceptional value. (92 pts.)
• 2017 Louis Jadot Marsannay Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay (9/21/2020)
  Mid yellow. With air this really comes alive. Aromas of ripe peach and white nectarine. Round melon and stone fruit on the palate, with a creamy cashew character balanced with fresh acidity to close. Pretty decent, if a little over priced (at €24 from Monoprix). (89 pts.)
• 2017 Domaine de la Charbonnière Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Spéciale Les Hautes Brusquières - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (9/20/2020)
  This is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. Surprisingly light red. The nose declares emphatically this is a Grenache driven wine. There are some lovely red fruit and floral notes, verging towards red lollies but not in a bad way. There is a touch of darker fruit underneath as well. The palate opens with sweet red fruit but closes with good length and structured, grippy tannins. Astonishingly this clocks in at 16pc abv, which will make this just about the first time I have ever had a table wine that high in alcohol where it didn’t feature in my note. Very good wine. Very drinkable now (with a good airing) to let the bright Grenache characters shine, but the purity and the structure give me confidence this will evolve nicely for at least ten to fifteen years. (94 pts.)
• 2015 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Alberdi Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (9/19/2020)
  Typical house style. Lots of oak/varnish character on the nose. Excellent definition and purity. Bright red fruits, leather, cedar. Well structured. Drinks well now but might improve over 2-3 years at least. At around EU12 this is tremendous value. (90 pts.)
• 2018 Dominio del Aguila Pícaro del Aguila Viñas Viejas - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (9/17/2020)
  We drank the Dominio del Aguila Réserva 2016 the other night and then this by chance showed up in a mixed 6 of Ribera del Duero. A worthy younger (and cheaper) sibling. Much more open, of course. Incredibly fresh, pure and enticing nose with blood plum, blackberry confit, and floral hints. Juicy red/dark fruits on the palate. Approachable now but there are some surprisingly grippy tannins to close suggesting a couple of years at least would see further improvement. Great value. (92 pts.)
• 2016 Dominio del Aguila Ribera del Duero Reserva - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (9/13/2020)
  One 18,834 bottles. This producer is about 10 years old but uses fruit from an 85 year old vineyard. This sees 35 months in French oak before release. Deep purple red in the glass. The oak is certainly prominent on the nose, lots of varnish and cedar tones. Quite monolithic despite somehow not being a "big" wine, and surprisingly unmoved even when open for a few days. With plenty of air there are hints of dark cherry and slightly brighter red fruit in the mouth. The finish is long and quite dry, with firm, grainy tannins. Give this at least another 2-3 years before trying. Very impressive, and may well score higher in time. (93 pts.)
• 2015 Château Croizet-Bages Alias - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (9/11/2020)
  Deep ruby red. Classical nose of red berries, black currant, cedar, and deep cassis. Quite juicy fruit on the palate with enough breathing. The finish is medium in length and moderately well structured. Excellent drinking now and I think ready to go, although a few more years are unlikely to hurt it. (88 pts.)
• 2018 Loron & Fils Côte de Brouilly Chateau de la Pierre - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly (9/9/2020)
  Bright purple red. Confected red fruit and bright cherry on the nose. A hint of funk underneath as well. Just a touch coarse on balance, not quite as glossy as the best examples. Bubblegum and red berries on the juicy, slightly grippy palate. Pretty darn drinkable. 86-87pts, good value for €10. (87 pts.)
• 2017 Tania & Vincent Careme Chenin Blanc Terre Brûlée - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland (9/8/2020)
  I think this is around the 3rd bottle from a six pack picked up for about €12/bottle in France. I wasn't convinced by the first bottle, finding it a bit fat and lifeless. The next two have been better. This is mid yellow, with a ripe apricot/stonefruit nose and just a hint of green which detracts slightly. Ripe and mouth filling on the palate, this is reminiscent of several excellent Chenin Blancs I had last month on holiday in Angers. While not quite as good as the best of them, at the price I paid, the value is very fair. I would suggest drinking sooner than later. (88 pts.)
• 2018 Vignobles Dornier Maury Clos des Vins d'Amour une Lubie - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Maury (9/3/2020)
  Bio, no sulpfur added. Opens with a bit of spritz. Appealing juicy fruit character, no particular funk. Moderate depth. Pretty decent. (88 pts.)
• 2014 Domaine des Ruettes Saumur-Champigny Renaissance - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (9/1/2020)
  Purchased from Monoprix in Angers and drunk immediately. This has excellent balance and depth, and was still quite youthful despite the age. Recommended. (89 pts.)
• 2018 Maison Foucher Lebrun Pouilly-Fumé La vigne aux Sandres - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé (8/26/2020)
  Can’t find too much information about this wine, but what is in the bottle is excellent. Pale straw yellow. Intense, crystalline and fresh on the nose. There are hints of citrus and a flint character, but little of the over Sav Blanc OTT characters seen in some regions. The palate is very pure, finishing with a touch of ripe gooseberry and well defined acidity. Pretty decent indeed. (90 pts.)
• 2017 David Duband Gevrey-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (8/25/2020)
  First bottle from a three pack recently acquired. On the first day this seemed quite densely coiled, with notes of dark cherry and sweet fruit. By day two this had opened up a lot more and shows a more perfumed nose of bright red cherry, and even an almost red confection note. The palate is well structured, with quite chewy tannins to close. Looking at the earlier notes I wonder if it has gathered weight with a bit more time in bottle or it is just different palates. A pretty decent wine that will likely benefit from at least mid-term cellaring to unwind more. (90 pts.)
• 2019 Domaine de Pontfract Côtes de Provence Rosé - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence (8/25/2020)
  Very pale pink. Lovely, pretty nose of fresh strawberries and cream. Some light cherry hints as well. Fresh and zippy on the palate, with a crisp but round, almost apple-like note on the finish. Very drinkable and great value. (86 pts.)

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[Mahmoud Ali]

Hi Sam,

Thanks for the note, plenty of new wines, at least for me, and entertaining as usual. One new one for me was the Chateau Croizet-Bages 'Alias' which I presume is their second wine. I had never heard of this one before. Croizet-Bages was infamous for having Robert Parker having dissed it with his epithet "Life is too short to drink Croizet-Bages." I've not seen one for ages but presume, based on your review of the Alias, that they have now upped their game.

I'm also jealous that you can get the Vina Alberi for so cheap.

Cheers ........................... Mahmoud.

[sjw_11]

Croizet-Bages was infamous for having Robert Parker having dissed it with his epithet "Life is too short to drink Croizet-Bages." I've not seen one for ages but presume, based on your review of the Alias, that they have now upped their game.

I'm also jealous that you can get the Vina Alberi for so cheap.

Cheers ........................... Mahmoud.

I hadn't heard that quote, pretty harsh. I have to say this one didn't leave a particularly memorable impression although I scored it OK. Probably not great value around €20.

The Vina Alberdi is €12.25 or €11.63 in a straight 6. I agree it is insane value for a wine released at 5-years old from one of Rioja's top traditional producers. Spain really offers some incredible bargains (especially when you can order direct from Spain with shipping only adding approx €1 per bottle!).

[sjw_11]

Posting the rest of my October notes ...

• 2014 Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino (10/29/2020)
  Apparently, this producer has a reputation for slightly “shrill” acidity that can show up unpleasantly in weaker years, as this year reportedly was in the region (“difficult” being the preferred term in the vintage reports). Mid red. Quite perfumed and refined on the nose. A little reticent, but really quite ethereal with air. Red fruits, a touch of varnish. The palate offers light red fruit/strawberry/cherry character to open, with quite firm, mouth filling tannin to close. Maybe just a touch of green, swampy character that perhaps betrays the vintage conditions. Should age quite well at least for the mid-term. 92-93pts. If this is what they can do in a weaker year, I would like to try their best. (92 pts.)
• 2019 Clos de Nouys Vouvray Sec - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/27/2020)
  Very pale green/yellow. Quite tart and unexpressive on the nose. Some freshly cut citrus, lime, and a grassy element. More expressive citrus on the front of the palate followed by a pretty firm driving acidity. Very good, especially for the price. I expect this can age nicely for quite a few years. (89 pts.)
• 2019 Feudo di Santa Tresa Nero d'Avola Purato - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane (10/27/2020)
  Fresh, crunchy red fruits. Nice purity. Good balance, with a nice acidity. Good food wine. Decent value (€10 in Monoprix). (87 pts.)
• 2018 Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero Malleolus - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (10/25/2020)
  Bright scarlet red. Very intense but elegant on the nose, lots of dark plum, vanilla, and red berry essence. What is striking on the palate is the balance. There is a really juiciness to the fruit, followed by a serious structure on the back palate. At the moment is finishes a little austere, but I suspect with a few more years age this would show very well indeed. Impressive. (93 pts.)
• 2018 Barton & Guestier Roi Chevalier - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion (10/23/2020)
  A blend of Merlot and Cab Franc. Oddly enough stated on the front label. A “Nicolas exclusive” but a serious bottle and a fairly hefty EU20 price tag. Bright magenta red. Classically Merlot on the nose- soft plummy fruit, and a whiff of tomato leaf/green. Almost a black currant liqueur element as well. Sweetly red to purple fruited on the palate, with slightly gritty tannins to close. Balanced and easy to drink, but I am not sure this is really one to bother cellaring. (89 pts.)
• 2018 Lionel Osmin & Cie Marcillac Fer de Soif - France, Southwest France, Marcillac (10/19/2020)
  Last of a six pack. 100% Fer Servadou or Mansois. Bright purple red. Vibrant, sweet fruited nose. Plenty of raspberry trending to blackberry jubes. A little simple and sweet on the palate but very drinkable. Pleasing balance. A lovely "mid week" or "bistro" red as they say. Or "gluggable" if you like. (87 pts.)
• 2013 Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Il Bosco - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (10/18/2020)
  Mid red. Intense nose, rich but not overly so. Sweet cherry, raisin, a touch of varnish. Surprisingly medium bodied on the palate despite the 15.5% abv. Strikes me as a touch more elegant than the 2012 I had last year. The fruit character on the palate is of course sweet, but I definitely don't find myself reaching for the "stewed" fruit descriptor with this one. Grippy tannins complete the picture. On a cold autumn night and with good hearty food, this is very enjoyable. (92 pts.)
• 2018 Terras Gauda Rías Baixas La Mar - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas (10/17/2020)
  This is 98% Caíño blanco and 2% Albariño. Quite yellow in colour. Slightly shy on the nose at first, then revealing intense citrus, straw, and stone fruit with air. An intriguing melange of flavour on the palate, quite hard to pin down, with slightly angular acidity at this point. There are hints of nectarine and lemon, with a saline character as well. Pleasant enough, I suspect this might look better in a year or two. (89 pts.)
• 2016 Château La Fleur des Graves - France, Bordeaux, Entre-Deux-Mers, Graves de Vayres (10/15/2020)
  50/50 Merlot and Cabernet. Hillside vineyards, vinified in 200L (ie very small) stainless steel tanks according to the website? Mid red, classic claret red. Gently fragrant nose. Red berries, brambly hints (but not “green”), and a black currant liquer element as well. Smooth and even on the palate, finishing with juicy fruit and gentle tannin. Easy drinking for now and good value sub €14. (89 pts.)
• 2018 Château de la Mulonniere Cabernet Franc - France, Loire Valley, Val de Loire (10/14/2020)
  This is labelled Anjou AOC but lets put it here for simplicity. About €18 bought in the region. Bright purple red. Lovely jubey Loire Valley cab franc nose. Lots of purple and red fruits. Sweet vanillin and gentle spice as well. Extremely fresh and drinkable, with quite dark fruits and almost surprisingly fleshy tannin grip. Just delicious. I would be intrigued to give this 3-4 years but honestly you wouldn't regret cracking it now.
• 2016 Durand-Perron Côtes du Jura - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (10/13/2020)
  Hard to find out much about this producer, whose website seems to be stuck in the early 2000s, but they seem to be a small family producer with just 3 Ha making less than 2,000 dozen bottles per year... which is a shame because this is remarkably good, especially for the modest price. Mid yellow. Immediately very fresh despite 4 years of age. The 18 months of oak is obvious but not detracting. The nose is classical, ripe chardonnay. White peach, nectarine, a touch of citrus. Round, balanced and creamy in the mouth, with lingering stone fruit and pleasantly crisp acidity to finish. (92 pts.)
• 2019 Foradori Manzoni Bianco Fontanasanta - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (10/13/2020)
  This is made from Manzoni Bianco from Vigneti delle Dolomiti neither of which I am familiar with. Manzoni Bianco is a variety created from a crossing of Riesling with Pinot blanc. Wikipedia cites Jancis Robinson MW to say this variety is typically rich and highly aromatic.
  
  On the form of this I can't learn a lot more. Quite gold yellow. The nose is flat on fruit, and dominated by a sour cider-like note, almost trending to a touch of proper pong/manure. The palate is sharp, and the fruit seems stripped away. Overall unquestionably fault. A natural wine gone wrong? A bad bottle? Impossible to say, and I can't find much more info on the net about this specific cuvee. NR (flawed)
• 2017 Domaine Guy & Yvan Dufouleur Volnay En Vaut - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay (10/11/2020)
  This comes from relatively young vines apparently (first vintage was in 2014 according to the website). Cherry red in the glass. A mix of fresh red cherry and wood spice on the nose. Quite high toned, a touch of floral as well. Bright and fresh in the mouth with elegant red fruit and good balanced acidity. Becomes more expressive with air. Perfectly drinkable now although I am sure a few years in bottle will not hurt it. (91 pts.)
• 2015 Musto Carmelitano Aglianico del Vulture - Italy, Basilicata, Aglianico del Vulture (10/9/2020)
  Deep red. Lots happening on the nose. Sharp red cherries, varnish, oak spice, and vanillin. A touch of green/undergrowth as well, but not in a bad way. Moderately ripe on the palate, lots of bright red fruits, but with firm, drying tannins and good, fresh acidity. Youthful for the five years of bottle age. Pretty decent. I’d be keen to see another bottle in 2-3 years. (90 pts.)
• 2018 Château de Laussac Cuvée la Dame - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux (10/7/2020)
  Mid red. Light red berries/cherry on the nose. Slightly sour although it lifts a bit with air. Simple, tart red fruit on the palate. Overall pretty unobjectionable but a bit simple. (86 pts.)

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