Ashbrook Estate Cabernet Merlot vertical tasting 2018 - 2004

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

My Story

My history with Ashbrook Estate goes back to 1993, when I enrolled in my first ever wine appreciation course. Tony Devitt (one of the founders, along with brother Brian) was one of the memorable presenters on this 8 week course, and impressed me enough to visit the winery on my next trip to Margaret River. I started to take notice, and gradually started buying on an annual basis. Although Ashbrook Estate makes fastidiously fruit-pure unwooded whites (including a fabulous Margaret River Riesling, not an oxymoron), my tastes lean towards chardonnay and reds, and this is where my regular buying has been for probably 20 years.

Ashbrook’s Story (loosely adapted from the Ashbrook Estate website, and some notes from Catherine Edwards, winemaker)

Now a 3rd generation winery, established by Brian and Tony Devitt family in 1975, Ashbrook produced its first commercial wine in 1979 and completed its 40th vintage in 2018 (one of only five wineries in Margaret River to do so). Currently owned and operated by Carol and Brian Devitt, daughter Catherine Edwards, son Richard and son-in-law Kingsley Edwards, Ashbrook has now been a family business for over 40 years. Catherine joined the winemaking team in 2010, and took over from Tony as head winemaker (with Brian) in 2013.

Only grapes handpicked and grown on the Estate are used and all processing, winemaking, bottling and packaging are closely controlled using the Estate’s own state of the art facilities.

Halliday says: “This estate is one of the quietest and highest achievers in Australia, maintaining excellent viticulture and fastidious winemaking.” Personally, I have always agreed.

Vineyard

Extensive use of the sophisticated “lyre” trellising system in the vineyard maximizes flavour potential. All grape picking and all vine pruning are carried out by hand. Seventeen hectares of grapes produce 150 – 170 tonnes of fruit which equates to 12,000 – 14,000 cases of wine annually.

Winemaking

Processing changes of note since 2010 include;
*Harvesting each variety over several days to capture the full spectrum of flavour while moderating alcohol levels in the final wine.
*Since 2012 the berries have been cold-soaked over night before inoculation and fermentation.
*From 2014 to now, we have been trialling a combination of red and dark berry promoting yeast strains.
*Since 2015, prior to barrel maturation the wine is racked off lees several times letting it breathe and ensuring our barrels are filled with a pristine, clean wine.
*Our grapes have always been hand-harvested but since 2018 they have also been berry-sorted. This is a labour-intensive process but allows elimination of any green/bitter material (small unformed berries, bits of rachis/stalk) prior to fermentation.
*Over the last 10 years we have trialled several new French oak barriques (and toasts) and now use a combination of up to eight different coopers. The new French oak component of our Cabernet wines has been increased to around 20% (and 30-40% in the Reserve Cabernets).
*In 2016, the Cabernet Sauvignon component of the blend was upped to 85% and remains as such.

The wine
• Has always been a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
• Labelled as Cabernet Merlot (with Cabernet Franc in small font) until 2008
• Labelled as Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot from 2009 – 2015. This probably reflects that the Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot components were of similar proportions.
• Labelled as Cabernet Sauvignon from 2016 as the CS component was increased to 85%.
• Alcohol levels are around 14% (+ or – 0.8%). There has also been consistent acidity / pH.
• Harvest dates range from early March to mid-late April.

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So, now to the wines, which were tasted from youngest to oldest. The tasting notes below are a group effort:

Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Cabernet Sauvignon 85%, Merlot 7%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Petit Verdot 4%) 14% alc.
Deep purple in colour, crimson at the rim. Quite bright in the glass. Ripe blackcurrant on the nose, with some vanilla, tobacco, black plums, a hint of violets and blueberry, and tomato leaf. The palate is silky, with the fruits gliding over the tongue, and firm but fine-grained tannins in support. The wine is medium- to full-bodied, and finishes quite long. “Fresh and beautiful” quoted one taster. Highly regarded by the group, and I suspect many of them will buy some when it is released.

Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (Cabernet Sauvignon 85%, Merlot 6.6%, Cabernet Franc 4.2%, Petit Verdot 4.2%) 13.5% alc.
Deep purple in colour. Slightly more of the savoury notes than the 2018, but similar fruit profile. There’s a herbal element also. Cedary oak. The palate is fruit forward but a little lean, with the mid-palate more prominent. Tannins are more prominent than for the 2018. A linear finish. From a cooler year in Margaret River.

Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Cabernet Sauvignon 85%, Merlot 7%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Petit Verdot 4%) 13.5%
Purple in colour, crimson rim. Ripe black fruits on the nose, with cedary oak, red plums and a small amount of cigars. Sage and rosemary and slightly stewed fruit. The palate is quite mouth-filling (especially compared to the 2017), with the minor components providing lift and contrast out of proportion with their percentages in the blend – especially, the red and blue fruits, and some violet florals, stand out on the palate. A touch of tar and asphalt, and grippy tannins. Quite full and satisfying, and finishes long. Highly regarded by the group, and should age well.

Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2015 (Cabernet Sauvignon 77%, Merlot 10%, Cabernet Franc 6%, Petit Verdot 7%) 14% alc
Purple in colour, crimson rim. Black, blue and red fruits on the nose, with savoury characters of oak and development in support. More tomato leaf and some oregano. The palate seems quite concentrated, but focussed more on the Cabernet Sauvignon fruit characters rather than the blending components. It’s medium- to full-bodied, with drying tannins and has a similar finish to the 2017.

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Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2014 (Cabernet Sauvignon 77%, Merlot 10%, Cabernet Franc 6%, Petit Verdot 7%) 14.8% alc
Purple in colour, crimson rim. A full, rich nose of blackcurrant, dark plums, a hint of violets and cocoa powder, and a little eucalypt. The palate is also quite intense and powerful, again with the fine-grained tannins in support. There’s almost a plush, velvety mouthfeel, and good supporting acid. Full bodied, but carrying the alcohol well.

Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2013 (Cabernet Sauvignon 77%, Merlot 10%, Cabernet Franc 6%, Petit Verdot 7%) 14.5% alc
Purple in colour. Blackcurrant, black olive and dried oregano on the nose along with some leather and smoked meats. Definite signs of development, especially the fruit flavours. The palate is reasonably full and pronounced, with almost tangy red fruits on top of the drying tannins and acid. Medium- to full-bodied.

Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2012 (Cabernet Sauvignon 77%, Merlot 10%, Cabernet Franc 6%, Petit Verdot 7%) 14.5% alc
Purple in colour, red rim. Blackberry, plums, cedary oak and a touch of menthol and tobacco on the nose. A little sage, aniseed and smoked meats. The palate is quite full and rich, with plenty of dark and red fruits sitting on top of grippy tannins and freshening acid. A Full bodied, and the longest finish of any of the wines to date.

Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2011 (Cabernet Sauvignon 68%, Merlot 15%, Cabernet Franc 5%, Petit Verdot 12%) 14.5% alc
Purple black in colour, with a crimson rim. Fruits are now quite developed and, combined with the oak, give an overall impression of savouriness. There’s also some caramel, coffee and fruit cake. A touch of raisin and sultana as well. The fruit returns on the palate, with a degree of sweetness amongst the development. Tannins, acid both in a supporting role, and the wine gives an overall impression of balance and complexity. Interesting. One taster commented “now we are at a point of difference”.

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[Waiters Friend]

Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2010 (Cabernet Sauvignon 81%, Merlot 11%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Petit Verdot 4%) 14% alc
Purple black in colour, with a crimson rim. Developed dark plums and blackberries with some cocoa powder and graphite. Very savoury brambly palate, with fruit on the decline and some coffee grounds. Tannins are well integrated and there’s some freshening acid. The palate was more attractive than the nose might suggest. Good length and palate weight. At its peak.

Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009 (Cabernet Sauvignon 81%, Merlot 7%, Cabernet Franc 5%, Petit Verdot 7%) 14.5% alc
Crimson in colour, red rim. Not a lot happening on the nose. Some leather, tomato leaf, and earthiness. The palate is firm, with developed dark and red fruits rolling across the tongue. Acid is noticeable and the finish is medium length only.


Ashbrook Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Franc 2008 (Cabernet Sauvignon 79%, Merlot 10%, Cabernet Franc 6%, Petit Verdot 5%) 14% alc
Crimson in colour with purple tinges. A fraction darker than the 2009, and has similarities to the 2016 and 2012. Moderate nose only, with some redcurrant and tomato leaf. The palate, although obviously developed, shows some bright red fruits (even a degree of fruit sweetness) and the acid and tannins are more in balance with the fruits. Better weight and length and simply a better wine.

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Ashbrook Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Franc 2007 (Cabernet Sauvignon 67%, Merlot 18%, Cabernet Franc 8%, Petit Verdot 7%) 14% alc
Purple in colour. Muted nose, palate has a hint of menthol amongst developed red fruits and noticeable acid. The wine is drying out a little, and probably past its prime.

Ashbrook Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Franc 2006: Not made

Ashbrook Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Franc 2005 (Cabernet Sauvignon 76%, Merlot 12%, Cabernet Franc 7.5%, Petit Verdot 4.5%) 14% alc
Crimson approaching garnet in colour. Similar to 2007, although not as drying. Some meaty characters. Definitely over the hill.

Ashbrook Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Franc 2004 (Cabernet Sauvignon 76%, Merlot 12%, Cabernet Franc 7.5%, Petit Verdot 4.5%) 14% alc
Crimson / garnet. The nose is mostly absent. The palate is surprisingly more lively than the last two wines, and shows ripe red plums and redcurrant, along with some spice and charcuterie. Good length and long, clean finish. In better condition than the 2007 or 2005.

What a fascinating tasting and (as many of these vertical tastings are) a microscope on vintage variation. Vine age and gradual winemaking changes play their part as well.

Wine of the night was the Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2011, by a modest margin. Personally, I felt the 2012 was a strong contender, as well as the 2018, 2016 and 2008. But, as I have mentioned occasionally on the forum before, 2011 remains my standout Margaret River vintage of the last 15 years.

So, what is the optimum drinking window? Our tasting group considers that it’s probably between 4 and 9 years from vintage. Certainly, the pre-2008 wines didn’t show particularly well on this occasion, but most of the others were very good indeed.

My heartfelt thanks to Catherine and Kingsley at Ashbrook for providing the tasting notes and technical information for all of the wines shown (this was provided to the tasting group on the night), and for providing my one missing vintage (2010) and the pre-release 2018.

Cheers
Allan

PS: I am reluctant to suggest that these are excellent wines for the price (as I don’t want Ashbrook to put the price up!). They are, however, fantastic examples of Margaret River Bordeaux blends.

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[Michael McNally]

Great tasting by the look of it Allan and a great write up, thanks!

Cheers

Michael