Grand Cru (Perth) Riesling tasting 15 January 2020

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

This was the first Grand Cru tasting for 2020. Ironically, the first Grand Cru tasting for 2018 was also Riesling http://forum.auswine.com.au/viewtopic.php?f ... ng#p148434 and was also any country / region or style. They were tasted blind, with only the vintage known, and tasted from youngest to oldest. We looked at the following 13 wines over the evening:

Forest Hill “S” Riesling 2018 (Great Southern, 12.5%): Pale straw colour. Lemon/lime on the nose, with lots of talc. Some minerals, florals and lemon pith. The palate shows very pure lime juice with cleansing acid. Highly regarded by the group.
I was unfamiliar with this label (the “S” part of it), and contacted the winery. This is a part of the reply from winemaker Guy Lyons: “The Riesling “S” is a wine which is really an experiment. We made ~20 cases of it. I love German Riesling and have worked in Germany, so this wine has evolved from that. As you may be aware a lot of German Riesling and traditional European Riesling is fermented in old oak casks, not trying to impart oak flavour but to help build more texture and volume on the palate due to the oxygen integration during fermentation.

So in 2018 (and in 2017), we fermented (wild/no added yeast) a small amount of Block 1 Riesling in an old oak barrel. Then the wine rested on its full fermentation lees until bottling in December (at the same time as our chardonnays).”

Julien Schaal Sommerburg Grand Gru 2018 (Alsace, 13%): Pale yellow in colour and developed for a young wine. Orange peel, mandarin, honeydew melon and jasmine on the nose. The palate is dominated by juicy oranges – juice, pith and rind – with only moderate acid (when compared to the average Aussie Riesling). A little short on the finish.

Best’s Riesling 2018 (Great Western, Victoria, 11%): Pale straw in colour. The nose was quite shy, with only moderate lemon/lime. The palate was also lean, with slightly sour lemon, and high supporting acid. Described as “juicy” and the high acid is supportive, not out of balance.

Rieslingfreak #4 2017 (Eden Valley, SA, 11.5%): This wine also appeared at the 2018 tasting, and the person who provided it recalled comments about looking at it again in a couple of years – so we did!
The note from 2018 is: “Very pale, almost clear in colour. Initially austere, with delicate lemon and lime and some white flowers. One taster described the nose as “pretty”. The palate is zesty, almost tart, with granny smith apple accompanying the citrus. High acid.”
It’s still pale straw in colour (only darkened slightly in two years). There’s now intense lime juice, and orange marmalade, with a tiny amount of kero and some minerals. The palate is now more about lemons and finger limes, and the acid appears to have softened in proportion to the other components of the wine. Moderate length only, with a touch of sweetness. Described by one taster as “nice, but unexciting”.

Strange Brew 2017 (Frankland River, 11.3%): Yellow and cloudy (deliberately so). The nose is a mix of cider, oranges, pineapple, musk stick, passionfruit and guava. The palate also reminds one of cider, and is textured from the solids. There’s a little burnt orange and chalkiness. Moderate length, and there was debate about a touch of brett in the wine. Nevertheless, described as “scrumpy in a glass”, and is unfined and unfiltered.

Castle Rock A&W Reserve 2017 (Porongorups, WA, 12%): Very pale straw colour. Restrained nose, with lime, slate and minerality. The palate shows tangy acid, sherbet, and lemon/lime juice. Described as a “typical Australian” Riesling (not a bad thing, surely?) and highly regarded by the group.

Willi Schaefer Graacher Trocken 2014 (Mosel, Germany, 11.5%): Yellow with gold tinges. Kero, gunpowder / firework residue and lots of botrytis on the nose. The palate showed honey, beeswax and lanolin, with sweet apricot nectar. The acidity balances the sweetness well. Both the nose and the palate are expressive and large. Well regarded by the group.

Plantagenet 2010 (Great Southern, WA, 12.5%): Pale yellow. Hints of kero (fading – kero was more pronounced 3-4 years ago). Lime, lemon, orange peel and crushed ants (formic acid) on the nose. The palate is rich and a little honeyed, with some oyster shell alongside the lemon and lime fruits. In some ways, this wine is just starting to develop.

Leo Buring 2008 (Clare Valley, SA, 11.5%): Light yellow in colour. A muted nose with hints of kero, and no obvious fruit. High acid, with the palate showing lean and tart apples, and not much else. There was debate as to whether it was only slightly developed, or a non-typical bottle. Regardless, not showing well on the night.

Capel Vale Whispering Hill 2005 (Great Southern, WA, 13%): Light yellow in colour, belying its age. Honeyed and toasty, with lime cordial, white flowers and jasmine on the full nose. The palate also has tangy limes, but not overly cordial-like. Orange rind on back palate. It’s mouth-filling and “super-balanced”, and excellent length. Highly regarded by the group.

Wine and Truffle Co 2005 (Pemberton, WA, 13%): Yellow in colour. A bit flat on the nose, slight citrus fruit and lemon meringue pie. The palate showed sour lemon, key lime pie and is somewhat cordial-like with crushed ants. Astringent finish.

Peter Lehmann 2002 (Eden Valley, SA, 12%): Yellow in colour. Faint lime, orange zest and honey on the nose, leading to lime cordial and herbs on the palate. It’s mouth-filling, slightly bitter on the finish.

Ashbrook 2000 (Margaret River, WA): Gold with orange tinges/ Developed orange, mandarin and dried apricot on the nose. The palate is honeyed, slightly savoury (or oxidised) and “floor polish wax”. A couple of tasters went for “Madierised”, and there was debate as to whether it was in decline or would make a reasonable dessert wine. As a long term fan of this wine, I personally would have liked to have seen it 5 years ago.

This was a very interesting tasting, especially given the rage of vintages presented. Wine of the night was the Capel Vale Whispering Hill Riesling 2005, by a small margin. Thanks to all who joined us on the night.

Cheers
Allan

Riesling 2020 Line-up.jpg