Midweek and Weekend Drinking

[Mahmoud Ali]

Last weekend a few friends of mine came over and we shared a number of bottles over dinner, paprika hendl with egg noodles and then steak and mushrooms with baked potatoes. All the wines were served blind.

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N/V Zorzal Rose, Mendoza, Argentina (13.1%)
N/V Pongracz Brut, Pinot/Chardonnay, Methode Cape Classique, Western Cape, Disgorged 2012 (12.5%)
1996 Fergusson 'Victoria' Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, Australia (13%)
2010 Umani Ronchi 'Casal di Serra' Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (13%)
1985 Chateau Meyney, Saint-Estephe (12%)
2005 Chateau de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape (14%)
1992 Baileys of Glenrowan Shiraz, Victoria (14%)
1992 Warre's Traditional Late Bottled Vintage Port, Unfiltered, Bottled 1996 (20%)

Needless to say nobody was able to guess the Argentinian Zorzal which was somewhat flat but had a certain savoury, herbal note - we had no idea what varietals were used. The Pongracz Cape Classique was much better, with fine bubbles, mousse, a fresh palate and a nice leesy character. The '96 Fergusson was on its last legs, but very typically a chardonnay of the rich kind. (Found two bottles in Vintage Cellars Castle Hill in 2001 - drank one and brought the other home). The '10 Casal di Serra was a recent purchase by my friend who hadn't noticed the age when he bought it. I don't know what an aged Verdicchio is supposed to be like but we all found this rather dull.

The red flight was considerably better. The '85 Meyney was a delight, aged as best as could be expected from an old Cru Bourgeois. Simply a lovely old claret at its peak. I was reminded of the old saying about "when was the last time you confused a Burgundy with a Bordeaux" as two of my friends went Burgundy and another went Bordeaux. The 2005 Beaucastel was a delight, and believe it or not the first for two of us at the table. It was elegant, refined, and eminently drinkable though the strong influence of the mourvedre was present as some of us made reference to it when guessing. This is not what I thought a Beaucastel would be like but would be only too pleased if my 2007 bottle is anything like it. The '92 Baileys showed its age, the colour had orange and brown notes and the nose reeked of leather and ripe, roasted fruit. I have not had an old Victorian shiraz before but this appeared to me a bit too full blown and a part of me supected it might have been heat affected. Hard to say as I bought it at cellar door and had it shipped to Canada through an importer. (Tasted lovely at cellar door and on returning to Sydney I ordered a mixed case over the phone - shiraz, cab, tokay, and port. That was also in 2001 and it came to Edmonton, along with the Fergusson and a bunch of other wines, with an importer friend's wine consignment) The '92 Warre's LBV was exceedingly good, almost vintage-like in character, and still dark-fruited and structured. It drinks beautifully and is in no danger of falling over.

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Monday night we had a 2001 Wynn's Riesling, Coonawarra (12%) with a creamy octopus and scallop sauce on rice. I have a tendency to cellar almost any riesling and it was no different with this Australian riesling from the less fancied Coonawarra. Back in the day it was a dry, austere example, and typically Australian. After 18 years the wine surprised me by being relatively light in colour and with only a touch of aged sweetness and the faintest hint of petrol. The acidity was on the low side but was just sufficient to stand up to the food. Not a great example but a serviceable aged riesling for midweek drinking. The pretty side of the family took less than a minute to declare "Riesling", "Australian", "It's old".

The evening was still young so I opened a half bottle of '94 Noval Late Bottled Vintage Port (20%) Bottled 1999. This is the 9th of a case of 12 bottles. Naturally this is the most advanced of all, the colour has lightened considerably, now a dark terracotta red centre with an orange brown rim. I decanted this and served it right away - it was ready to go with no heat on the nose. It had a light, elegant, floral nose with a maraschino cherry lift. The palate was medium-bodied and fully resolved, with rich, sweet, and savoury herbal notes as well a long finish. Very satisfying and pleasant. Oh, and the pretty half said "It's an LBV". Poor thing, I make her work for her drink.

Cheers ............... Mahmoud.