The Auswine Forum

I'm sure others will chime in with places they've been that they can help with, but for my part, if you're planning to visit the following, then feel free to tap me up for info:
Aosta (the city rather than the region)
Ghemme
Cuneo
Langhe (Barolo and Barbaresco regions)
Torino/Turin (this would be my 'specialist subject')
Bubbio (nr. Acqui Terme)
Cinque Terre / Genova (Genoa)
Pisa
Siena
Montepuliciano
Forli (simple advice, not especially recommended unless fascist architecture and fairly average eating is sought!)
Bologna
Reggio nell'Emilia
Ferrara
Trento
Lago Molveno
Verona / Valpolicella
Mid-Northern Puglia (Locorotondo, Ostuni, Martina Franca etc.)
(Sicilian) Aeolian Islands
Amalfi Coast

If the place you're thinking of is nearby, then still ask, as we've done a good few day trips from these places.

Sorry no Rome Venice or Florence - The great irony is that I'm a tourist who doesn't especially appreciate the company of other tourists.

Ian
Like you I transit through the mobs to get to less intense places in Italy
I like Bologna
But it is very busy

Hi Michel
Our first two visits to Bologna weren't great - both day trips involving ~ 1 hour train journeys and the journeys to/from the stations. There was thus some tiredness when we got there and the busyness probably didn't help.

Surprisingly though, we didn't give up, and stayed in an Agriturismo south of the city, so that we could take a bus in (~ 30-40 mins, but crucially dropped us very centrally). This really opened up the city for us and we enjoyed it. We've since returned twice, both times in apartments about 10-15 mins walk from Piazza Nettuno/Maggiore. This worked even better, so my advice for anyone going would be to get an apartment within the ring road, so that you can graze the wonderful food shops & market.

One quite annoying negative, and I'll be as subtle as I can, but street begging has become very persistent here, more than any other city I know in Italy. Whereas Italian begging is traditionally very demure, often head-down / not even speaking (as if embarassed to be asking), the newer african guys are very direct and very persistent. It's especially intensive around the great food shop streets south west of the due Torri (Tamburini etc.), but also outside the supermarkets. My partner did not feel safe on her own after one guy wouldn't give up and pursued us for about 50m. Now there are clearly greater issues around this, but it is something to be aware of, and sadly the only option to save harassment is to totally ignore them.

Don't let this put anyone off the city, because it's very good - a proper functional city with possibly the best shop bought food in Italy.

regards
Ian

I can recommend http://www.agriturismosanmattia.it/ in Verona.

It's a fully functional farm, with poultry, livestock, olive trees - and it makes some decent wine as well (especially the Amarone). You can get a tour of the property and a wine tasting for a small fee, and the view from the front of the property looks out over Verona from a height, and straight down the river.

That sounds very useful. We stayed about a 30 min drive out of town, at a very good agriturismo with pool, sauna, and stunning breakfasts, also making wine (Massimago - near Mezzane di Sotto). However being in closer range of Verona itself should give this wider appeal. It looks walkable (at least into the city), plus served by a bus route, so it looks a good find. People often assume Agriturismi are all way out of the cities, but some are closer than you might think.

Spending September, basically, in Italy .. travelling as widely as we can, and experiencing as much as we can. Wine Food emphasis, mostly also avoiding the key Tourist areas.

Very interested in visiting Trentino Alto Aldige, and hence perhaps, Trento, and so any ideas, or insights, or recommendations etc would be greatly valued!

.

Hi Gavin

Trento
Some friends we holidayed with in Verona and Trentino described Trento as 'like Verona 2 decades ago, before the tourist crowds descended'. Trento itself is a very good city, it's main drawback being getting there, as although the train service is good, the nearest airports (Treviso, Verona or even in Austria!) are a distance away. There is a very good direct train service via Bologna / Verona, a joy to travel on with wonderfully scenic views - and there are pre-booked ticket deals to be had on trenitalia.com site - give me a shout if you need a hand with this. Driving is also very easy from Verona, on the motorways / autostrade, with some tolls IIRC but not excessive cost at all. Planning the correct exit for Trento is important though, so be prepared.

The centre is mostly pedestrianised, very open and with very light coloured stone, making it appealing to walk around. The weekly market sprawls across the centre of the city from ~ 7.15am-2pm on Thursdays, but a real highlight is the mushroom stands in the centre of Piazza Erbe https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Pia ... 11.1238375 Very good quality fresh mushrooms, fairly priced, plus dried porcini as well.
The thursday market is busy, so be prepared for a bustling but not intimidating experience - this is the 'cultured' north.

We stayed in a private let apartment, and can try and dig out details if you wish. Overall it was very homely and spacious. The bathroom was a bit bland and could do with a refit, though I guess it's a big decision to remove the bath with jacuzzi jets. The kitchen also a little dated, but clean, functional and perfectly usable. The highlight undoubtedly were the two rooftop balconies, so you can take the morning and evening sun in! Give me a shout if this interests and I'll try and dig out Gabriella's details. Otherwise plenty of modern aparthotels that might appeal. I'd definitely recommend apartment over hotel, though if you find a good agriturismo on your travels, these can be a joy.

Trento also houses a lovely chap called Fabio Vettori, who is a cartoonist specialising in characterful ants (formiche). We'd visited the shop (now closed) in Trento, but wanted to get some more of his work on a 2nd visit, so via a conversation at the tourist office, a visit was arranged. We got the stuff we wanted (plus plenty of generous freebies thrown in), but the highlight was him asking about what we were doing there, and using this to do us a personalised sketch with us morphed into ants! Here's the previous year's giro d'Italia cycling jersey that I bought one of

Other highlights in Trento include a very famous cathedral (c.f. council of Trent) housing a remarkable crypt (just €2 for entry to the crypt, worth it), some vibrant Piazze to take an evening aperitivo in, a good and cheap gondola ride up into the hilltop village of Sardagna overlooking the city.

Food is good and a noticeably lighter touch for local dishes. aitregarofani.com (Tre Garofani) is a very fine place, with that wonderful ability of good fine dining, to make what looks like a small plate of food, to be so tasty, that you feel utterly satisfied without overindulging. Very good indeed and we've had two very enjoyable lunches here. Elsewhere a couple of good/vibrant wine bars and lots of other restaurants including a place we didn;t go to, but sounded great (Uva e Menta) uvaementa.it which does an extraordinary range of pizzas. Some very good specialist food shops on via Garibaldi and elsewhere, and do make a point of trying the historic 'Malga' cheese, made up in the mountains by Shepherds, who take the cattle up when the snow melts and bring them back down when it returns in Autumn. Unlike the more challenging Puzzone (stinky) di Moena, the Malga cheeses are much easier to like / appreciate with a wonderful but not overwhelming creaminess.

Outside Trento
Lago Molveno
We've stayed twice in Lago Molveno, and it's charms are really easy to appreciate. On arrival we looked out from the balcony and saw mountains, bright blue lake and none of the usual boring 'filler' scenery. Breathtaking is too easily used, but it really does fit here. It does rely on tourists, but it's very easy to escape the modest numbers, the village/small town has about 6-7 restaurants (Speckstube e Filo probably the best but none are really fancy/great, but none were bad) , plus the wonderfully mad butcher who seems to sell everything (not just meat) and has quite long opening hours - some very good food there and don't be afraid to ask - he's probably got it. The walking is wonderful, but does test the fitness. In addition there is a (sadly new and swanky gondola - we liked the old open air metal frame) ski lift up to Pradel, and another further up the mountain, with walks going off in all directions. Do check the schedules though, as they do reduce hours in September. Driving there is moderately intimidating as bits of the road have rocky outcrops that intimidate rather than being dangerous. If you wish, there is also a bus service between Molveno and Trento, changing at Mezzocorona or Mezzolombardo to connect with either bus or train. If you fancy some thrill-seeking, there is paragliding onto a smallish patch of grass on the edge of the lake. Not for me!

Andalo / Fai della Paganella / Cavedago. These places get a bit more winter tourism, a little less summer tourism than Molveno. Some good ski lifts / walking here and a special mention to * La Bottega della Bonta, Via Fovo, 1 / Via Tenaglia, 1/A ( my notes say - lots of interesting stuff including zirele (local sugar sweets in very strong flavours), Cogna, Bagna Cauda, herb honey, herb grappa, fruit drinks, cheeses, truffle sauces, composta, beers, amaro). It's a wonderful treasure trove of good food / good local food.

Cles
We haven't visited yet, but it was the place that we were first drawn to up here. This is north of Trento and a good option if you want to explore in the car going northwards, yet still connected by train to Trento.

Lago Toblino
We've only driven past, but the castle is proper picture postcard / Disney to look at, set on the shore of a lovely lake. If that wasn't enough, arguably the great wines of the region are made not far from here - the Vino Santo (not Vin Santo) have none of the oxidised complexity of their Tuscan (almost) namesakes, but more than make up for it with a pure/crystalline intensity. The local shops do have some, and as well as Castel Toblino's own (pretty decent) anything from one of the Poli families is worth buying. They age timelessly as well, so don't be afraid if you see (say) a 2000 vintage - it will still be very vibrant. Buy them, and then keep schtum!

Mezzolombardo
A functional and rather flat / elongated town/suburb, but with some very good food shops dotted along the main street. However it's Foradori that really hold the interest here, a brave / questing winery doing biodynamics, skin contact whites, some tinajas (like amphora without the handles!) aged reds. They've taken a radical approach to really shake up some lazy tradition, and the wines are wonderful (look to the standard 'Foradori' (Teroldego) as the wine to import, as it's tremendous value, perhaps the match of the pricier Granato on release, and won't lose much ground over subsequent years. Maria Boffa is the lady we organised the visit with, and their courtyard is a real green oasis, so no problem in arriving early and taking that in.

Rovereto
We only saw this from car/train, but it sounds appealing, and is home to the most northerly olive oil production (very good it is too). It puts you in striking range of Lake Garda if that appeals (but be warned the big Italian lakes can be busy / touristy)

... and we've only scratched the surface.

We will return soemtime, probably for a week up in the mountains and a shortened week in Trento, though Molveno + another mountain destination migth win out, with a day trip or two into Trento - taking in market day if I get my way.

I can ping you the cribsheet I prepared / updated, but it's too big for the forum limit. It's got stuff you don't need such as our flight details and the overnight stay in Treviso caused by mis-communication. The train times etc. might be useful though and there are also some useful links & mention of some of the walks. The brains of the operation is an amateur mycologist, hence the mushroom hunting licence details.

regards
Ian

In addtion, whilst we've not been to Bolzen / Bolzano, we've heard very good things, albeit it's much more german speaking here than Italian (Trentino is the reverse). It's a longer arrival trip if coming from Italy, but worth looking at flying into / out of Austria if this appeals -it should be quicker.

Ian, any tips on driving around Piedmont and also walking through vineyards in cool and possibly wet autumn.

Hi Chris
Generally plenty of reassurance.

Driving in rural Piemonte is easy, with parking in the Langhe villages still no problem, modest amounts of traffic and even within the villages there are no ZTL (restricted access) zones yet. An up to date sat nav (or data roaming phone / tablet alternative) really helps, but old school map is still fine.

Arrival / departure can influence where to hire the car from. We'd always choose Torino Caselle airport, but Milano Malpensa is another option, albeit it's a busier airport. If hiring from Torino, there are 3-4 hire car companies in the arrivals hall (facing you on your right after you pass through the customs area). The cars are parked on ground floor in the multi-story car park across the road. I'd recommend you use google street view to plot the route out visually (basically it's left out of the car park, left at the T junction & left again to double back on yourself, passing the airport. From there it is sign-posted, but worth having a paper copy of the route to the autostrada just for reassurance. The main autostrada heading south can be busy until you pass Torino, but then gets much quieter.

The Langhe vineyards of Barolo and Barabresco are really easy to walk through as shared ownership = unfettered access. It's fairly easy to navigate without a map when heading towards hilltop villages such as La Morra and Castiglione Falletto, but I'd recommend a ~ €10 walking map that comes in a clear plastic wallet. It's very good & you'll want to keep it afterwards as a reminder. Many of the routes will be straight through vineyards, but some also incorporate woodland. Lightweight walking shoes would be ideal, and trainers also ok, though it can get muddy when it rains, and if there has been a lot of rain, this can make getting up some steep vineyard slopes a little tricky - but never impossible. Fortunately we find the autumn weather generally good, with maybe 1 day in 10 rainy on average. The slightly cooler weather is good for walking. For convenience, consider a fleece for natural water resistance, but also walking to a restaurant in the evenings.

Are you set on location you'll be heading to, or seeking some ideas of getting a nicely balanced trip?

regards
Ian

Hi Chris

We are at Malpensa Airport on the way home after 4 weeks in Italy and France on a wine/ food crusade.
Spent 1 week at Hotel Barolo as a base for trips to Alba - very friendly distillery making grape specific grappa- I bought the Nebbiolo grappa
Enzo Brezza is located at Hotel very good wine tasting of Dolcettos and Barolo.
Highly recommend Paulo Scarvino wines just down the hill from Barolo- free tasting and tour
Also Marchesi de Barolo again located in Barolo town amazing winery
Barolo Mascarello is in town but needs appointment well in advance.
The highlight was barbarresco visited the Fletcher's at old station - aussies living and making wine in town and must do lunch at Restaurant Antine - 29 year old chef is genius.

We also visited Bordeaux- Saint Chinian- Cognac-Beaune-Tain L Hermitage-Riquewihr.
If anyone wants to ask any questions please let me know.

Dennisr wrote:Hi Chris

We are at Malpensa Airport on the way home after 4 weeks in Italy and France on a wine/ food crusade.
Spent 1 week at Hotel Barolo as a base for trips to Alba - very friendly distillery making grape specific grappa- I bought the Nebbiolo grappa
Enzo Brezza is located at Hotel very good wine tasting of Dolcettos and Barolo.
Highly recommend Paulo Scarvino wines just down the hill from Barolo- free tasting and tour
Also Marchesi de Barolo again located in Barolo town amazing winery
Barolo Mascarello is in town but needs appointment well in advance.
The highlight was barbarresco visited the Fletcher's at old station - aussies living and making wine in town and must do lunch at Restaurant Antine - 29 year old chef is genius.

We also visited Bordeaux- Saint Chinian- Cognac-Beaune-Tain L Hermitage-Riquewihr.
If anyone wants to ask any questions please let me know.

Fletcher sounds great

I'll be in Bologna tomorrow for two days, and tips with limited walking? I'm With my father who can't walk far these days.

Definitely not the one of the due torri that is accessible. It's a long way up!

The city centre is a little unusually shaped, taking us a while to get the hang of it. Piazza Nettuno is structurally the centre, with roads typically radiating out from it. However it's not as simple as a circular centre, as each road has a different level of interest. On the Southern side, Via Farini is the fancy shopping area, but do have a look at the porticoes above the southern side of that road - some serious artistry evidenced.

The Basilica (di San Petronio) in the opposite corner of Pizza Nettuno to the Neptune fountain/statue is well worth a look around, allowing for someone to just sit down and take it in or have brief sit downs if really taking it all in. Plenty of other churches offering the chance of a 5-10 minute rest of weary legs, whilst also there is usually plenty to see. The food streets in the old criss-cross block around via Clavature / Via Caprarie are 'high density' in terms of seeing a lot without having to walk too far. As mentioned in another thread, do avoid any recognition of the african street beggars as they are very persistent. They are nicely placed between Piazza Nettuno & Le due torri.

Quite a few cobbled streets, so do beware of spending too much time on these, as it can go quickly through the bones.

There are some good wine bars, this not the cheapest for wines bought off the shleves, but brought genuine 'southern warmth' to cooking, ambience and by the glass wine choice - In Vino Veritas Via Garibaldi Giuseppe, 9F which is due south of Piazza Nettuno fountain. I got the impression they were quite happy to open anything if you were going to have a couple of glasses from the bottle. Faccioli is more centrally located and doesn't have the same ambience, but does have age/character. A good option for a glass of something good or modest, especially as it is so centrally located.

Best selection in wine shops is Enoteca Italiana on via Marsala heading towards the student quarter ( a very brief walk north west of piazza nettuno). Prices are a little inflated (maybe + 5-10% ) but the selection is very large, and there are a few seats to grab a coffee or glass of wine, or even a light bite, whilst the other person browses the shelves. Much better value, and in my mind a better shop, is the rather oddly / inaccurately named wine shop Enoteca caffe Bazar on Via Guerrazzi, 8. The prices are very competitive, but with plenty of choice from the humdrum, through the quirky to the blingy.

Museums etc. that might / might not appeal, including some utterly quirky medical museums that are a combination of artistic / ghoulish / scientific. The tourist office in Piazza Nettuno are good / helpful.

Eating out we've had surprisingly mixed experiences. For a very chilled time, In vino veritas mentioned above would be my choice. Good rustic food and good food friendly wines set at wooden tables between shelves of wine. For more interesting food with a very decent wine list, Sette Tavoli has done us well. The setup here is unusual, in that the chef takes on a different region of Italy every month, showcasing the regional style in the dishes. It's a similar distance walk from the centre (maybe 10 mins) and has the option to eat outside on a very quiet street, which should be plenty warm enough to do now, or inside. I remember we had a very fairly priced bottle of Les Cretes Chardonnay cuvee Bois from Aosta last time, and it was brilliant. They also had (wet) smoked Mozzarella in the antipasti, so I got the name of their supplier to chase that the next day. It is obscenely tasty.
Another that might appeal, though around 1pm it's pretty manic, is Tamburini. This is a famed food shop near the Due Torri, but they also serve up 'cafetteria' food. It's chaotic and confusing, but the food is rustic & tasty & fairly priced.

If buying balsamic vinegar to take home, trading up rapidly increases quality. The difference between (say) a 5 and an 8 year old can be immense. The 20-30 year old ones are noticeably better, but by the time you've got to this level, it's a case of diminishing extra return. Playing at the 8-10 year old level seems to be ideal value for money.

The local gelato is generally very good (the simplest advice is be wary of places that mound it up with lots of toppings over it in the tray. The best are generally displayed 'flat'. Even the less good ones are still very good though. There was also one place (I think Gelateria Gianni on via Monte Grappa) that did Pere e Gorgonzola (Pear and Gorginzola blue cheese) that I'm kicking myself for not trying. There is real innovation afoot in gelato flavours, with some utterly bizarre ones that I suspect are made for the sort of restaurants that believe in molecular gastronomy.

Also worth checking the tourist site for events - there is always something going on in Bologna, and chance might bring up something really interesting.

To finish here's the Bologna section of the crib sheet I took away last year. As ever, way more listed than we'd need, but nice to be able to fall back to it when needed:

[This next one might be worth checking - they seemed to be organising a few bus tours from the tourist office / tourist office website. Prices as you'll see below are modest]. If you really want to splash the cash, then Bologna has a number of balsamic vinegar produce tours (also Parmesan and Prosciutto producers). They aren't cheap, but we self-organised a visit to Ermete Medici's place and it was very interesting.
Red bus tour The fascinating Park-Museum of Ca ' Ghirona will be the focus of "summer in Villa": 5 September at 17.30 we will start for Ponte Ronca (via l. da Vinci 19) to admire the art collections and the surrounding nature with final buffet offered at the restaurant Giocondo. Cost 18 euros, departing from Piazza Nettuno.

Markets
Fri/Sat : Piazza VIII Agosto (Also with flea market up the steps in the giardini publici)
Mercato delle Erbe – via Ugo Bassi 2 (7:15-1pm & 5-7pm Thu Sat pm
Via Clavature/Drapperie Mon Tues Wed Fri Sat: 7 am to 1pm and 4:15 to 7:30 pm; Thursday: 7am to 1pm
Piazza Aldrovandi street market thu pm
Farmer’s market, via di gomito 30, Wed 2.30pm to 6.30pm (Summer hours approx. 4pm to 8pm). Out of town
Mercato del collezionismo, Piazza VIII Agosto, Thu 8.30-6pm

Restaurants
Ciacco – via San Simone 1/c nr Piazza Maggiore/Jewish Quarter (051265441) ~€40 Cellar of an old Palazzo soecialising in seafood Sun
* Divinis – Via Battibecco 4c (Enoteca for breakfast, aperitivi, tasty food) Tue Eve, Wed
Ristorante Scacco Matto, via Broccaaindosso 63b tel 051 263404 Mon lunch
Trattoria Gigina, via Stendhal 1 sat/aug (moderate) 051/622300 Sat Aug
Trattoria del Rosso, via Augusto Righi 30 (moderate-) 051/236730 Aug
Osteria del Sole, Vicolo Ranocci 1 (buy food in market & eat with wines on communal tables) 8-14; 19-20:45
*Trattoria Caminetto d’Oro, via de’ Falegnami 4 (moderate+) wed/sun
Trattoria Meloncello, via Saragozza 240a (typically Bolognese) (moderate) 051/6143947 mon pm / tue
Trattoria Anna Maria, via delle Belle Arti 17a (moderate – famous pasta) 051/266894 mon
*Trattoria Serghei, via Piella 12 (Moderate – good soups) 051/233533 Sat/Sun Aug
Osteria da Madon, via San Vitale 75 (lunchtimes, moderate)
Le Maschere, via Zappoli 5 Sun (Fish – Romagna meets Egypt)
Al Salaam, via Centotrecento 24 (Charming Middle-Eastern) 051244173 Sun
Bottega Albertini, via dei coltelli 9/2 (creative & value) 051 228532 Sun
Acqua Pazza (South-East of the centre), via Murri 168 Sat lunch Mon
Ai Butteri (South-East of the centre), via Murri 22 Sun
Dello Starlino, via Murri 71 Tue
Da Vito, via Monte Albano 5 (Opp. Santuario di San Luca) Tue
*Broccaindossa – via Broccaindossa 7a (succession of antipasti & desserts)
Fantoni – via del Pratello 11 (great VFM)
Faccioli – via Altabella 15b (nr due Torre) (wines and light snacks)
Enoteca vini d’Italia - via Emilia Levante 142 (Tasting and snacks) Sun
Birreria Amadeus – via G. Dagnini 1 (SE of city & with NZ beer!)
[Slow] All'Osteria Bottega - Via Santa Caterina, 51 Bologna +39 051 585111
Osteria dell'Orsa - Via Mentana, 1
Ristorante Franco Rossi - Via Goito, 3 (elegant) 051.238818
Trattoria Battibecco - Via Battibecco, 4b 051 223298 ‎(somewhat fancy)
Come una Volta, via Crocetta 15 (traditional – emphasis on the pasta)
* Sette Tavoli, via Cartoleria 15 / 2 , Phone: 051272900 http://www.settetavoli.it (varies weekly by region)
Vicolo Colombina, Vicolo Colombina, 5 Really good simple food nr. P. Maggiore
Noir, P. dei Tribunali 6, 051 220118 / 3887562938 (Marco Fadiga bistrot – specialising in fish & seafood) Sun
Di Sandro al Navile, Locanda Lame via del Sostegno 15, 051 634 3100 (Classic Bolognese food) Sun eve
*Tre Leoni, Via F Turati 112, 051 614 3643, elegant not ostentatious, moderate Sun Eve Mon
AlCambio, via Stalingrado 150, 051 328118 Sat lunch Sun

Food Shops
Via Oberdan 45 (Cheese); 16 (Salumeria); 10 (Caffe Terzi – fine coffee); 13 (Bakery); 11 Metalworking (Kitchen)
Via Portanova 7a (Wide Variety), 12/b (Aroma) coffee bar & beans, plus chocs.
Strada Maggiore 35a (Salumeria); 31 Scaramagli (Gastronomia)
Via dei Mille 3 “Salumeria dall’Olio” (also good selection of dried porcini)
Via Orefici 6 – Bottega del Caffe, 19 Eataly
Via Clavature 17a (Roccati Chocolates)
Via pescherie vecchie 2b (Franceschini), mushrooms truffles and balsamic; 3 (Baita) cheese +); 14a (Pescheria del Pavaglione)
Via Massarenti 175 (Drogheria Facchini)
via San Felice 13 (Pielle: coffee preserves etc.), 24 (Ugo: Gelato)
via Cadriano 27/2 L’angolo della Freschezza (cheeses +)
*via Galliera 27, Antica drogheria della Pioggia (old fashioned confectionary etc.)
*Drogheria Olimpia, via Andrea Costa 67c (interesting selection from Italy and abroad) Enoteca Drogheria Gilberto, via Drapperie 9 (Saturday – candlelit aperitivi, rest of time a shop)
Pescheria Brunelli, via Drapperie 6
Antica Aguzzeria del Cavallo, via Drapperie 12b (metalworking)
via Zamboni 8 (Il banco del Pane) – bread and desserts
via A. Di Vincenzo 33d (La Bolognina) fresh handmade pasta
Pasticceria Zanarini, Piazza Galvani 1 (coffee/cakes/ice-cream) mon
Bar-Pasticceria Lambertini, Piazza Aldrovandi 23 via San Vitale (next to food market) Gamberini, via Ugo Bassi 12 (nr Ugo Bassi Market)
Stregate, via Portanuova 7a (tisanes, infusions, chocalates and spices)
La Bolognina, via A di Vicenzo 33/d (fresh pasta)
Pastificio Dolce Sana, via Nani 11/d (fresh pasta)
Le Sfogline, via Belvedere 7a (artisan pasta & torta di Riso)
La Sfogliatella, via Lame 28 (fresh pasta)
Pasticceria Atti e Figli, via Caprarie 7 (Pastries) & via Drapperie 6 (Bread) thu pm / sun
Bar Pasticceria Billi (at foot of steps to Basilica di San Luca) via de Coubertin 1 (artisan)
Plus others in the criss-cross of streets around Tamburini (via Caprarie 1)
Cremeria Funivia, via Porrettana 158/4d & Piazza Cavour 1 (creamy)
*Cremeria Scirocco, via Barelli 1c, creative gelati, including candied celery (sedano candito) & gorgonzola e Noci (walnut) Tonno e Cipolle (Tuna and onion!)
Il Gelatauro, via San Vitale 98b (special focus on ingredients from around the world)
Gelateria delle Moline, via delle Moline 13b (with Sicilian desserts & granite)
Gelateria Gianni, via San Vitale 2 & via Montegrappa 11 (good quality)
Gelateria Ugo, via San Felice 24
Sorbetteria Castiglione, via Castiglione 44 (inc. Sugar free ice cream)
Stefino gelateria artigianale, via Gelleria 49b (good ice-creams and granite)
*Gino Fabbri Pasticcere, via Cadriano 27/2 (Wide variety of cakes & pastries – best in the city)
Il Forno di Calzalori, via delle fragole 1 (Very good bread & biscuits)
I sogni dei Golosi, via Irnerio 17e (artisan bread & cakes/desserts)
Forno Pallotti, via del borgo san pietro 59 (good bread & fresh pasta & coffee & pastries)
Risto Pallotti, via Irnerio 17 (Bistro in student quarter – same people as the bakery above)
Gastronomia Scaramagli, strada Maggiore 31, wines sweets & 25 types of rice.
Majani, via de Carbonesi 5 (good but pricey)
Pasticceria D’Azeglio, via D’Azeglio 69 (traditional including Ciambella)
Salumeria Pasquini e Brusiani, via delle Tofane 38 (Salame Rosa and Mortadella)

Enoteche
Via Castiglione 79a (Enoteca alla Porta, to buy & taste in nice wood lined room)
Cantina di S. Urbano, via degli Ortolani 32/c (wineshop SE edge of city)
Via Marsala 2b (Enoteca Italiano - con degustazione in the evening)
Via Petroni (University quarter): 9 large Enoteca Alla Porta large (Enoteca / Drogheria); 9b bio cafe/restaurant (alce Nero)
Cantina Bentvoglio, Via Mascarella 4b (winetasting/food/jazz)
Bottega del Vino Olindo Faccioli, via Altabella 15/b (1 room for tasting, the other for meals)
Zampa e Osvaldo, via Andrea Costa 127 (nice place for a glass of wine & salume/cheese ‘till late)
Antica Drogheria Calzalori, via G. Petroni 9 (1900 labels)
Caffè Bazar, via Guerrazzi 8c
Godot Wine Store, via Santo Stefano 12b
Scaramgli dal 1912, Strada da Maggiore 31
Tumadei, via Ortolani 32
Vinicola, via San Felice 48°

Other Shops
Kelemata - Via U. Bassi, 31 & via dell' Independenza (about half way up going north, on the left). My preferred deodorants in very natural fragrances and relatively inexpensive

Thanks Ian and Dennis. Been there a couple of times as a passenger, but driving later in the year from Malpensa. Staying in Alba first. Then a night or three in Barolo, Castiglione, Serralunga, Monforte and Barbaresco. Accomodation in town and walking distance from restaurants, so no night driving as I have seen how hairy that can be on foggy nights on the winding roads.

Have the Masnaghetti maps for vineyard guidance, bought last time I was there.

Ian - wow thank you for all the effort, we will definitely be better informed now!

Hi Chris
I definitely support the 'walk to the evening restaurant' approach, not least as the designated driver for that day gets to kick back and drink some wine. It might be worth taking (or picking up) a torch whilst there, as lighting can be relatively sparse. We use head-torches we picked up from a Decathlon sports shop a few years ago, but a simple small pocket torch is fine. The hands-free nature of the head torches is a little easier.

In wine country you'll find yourself less compromised by the lunchtime (~ 1pm-4pm but flexible) closing, as wineries rarely shut for the full 3 hours, so an appointment at 2pm for instance isn't impossible to get.

I can suggest restaurants in Monforte and Serralunga if you end up basing in either of those, plus apartment accommodation near both if you haven't got that sorted.

The Masnaghetti maps are lovely, and would be of use, however there is a better map, one I've only ever seen in the local tourist offices (though I reckon the excellent Alba tourist office will have them), with terrain / elevation etc. marked as well is suggested paths marked with dashes. For ~ €10 it's well worth it. However there are also some online route descriptions on the excellent Langhe & Roero tourist office site http://www.langheroero.it/Itinerari.jsp?idTipologia=49

Meanwhile it appears Alba have recently amended their controlled zone (ZTL)
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/imag ... Sr2eJX3TNg
(but better then understood on the below much clearer map. Basically you can go around the outside (in green), but not inside, though in some cities this is relaxed on sundays. All the parking areas are shown as ok to get to, but once the ZTL has changed, they'll move the cameras from where the yellow pedestrianised zones are to the new expanded ZTL. Each time you cross into the ZTL you'll get a fine, even if you go in, out and then back in inside a few minutes.
http://www.comune.alba.cn.it/images/sto ... _2fase.pdf

Hotels can arrange for exemptions, so if staying inside the ZTL, ask them where to park & how to approach the parking place.

This is what the ZTL signs look like


regards
Ian

I am staying inside the boundary so great to know Ian.

I think I've found reference to the walking map I mentioned

La cartina completa dei sentieri, curata dall’Associazione Trekking in Langa, è in vendita al costo di 6 € presso l’associazione stessa (www.trekkinginlanga.com) o presso lo sportello Consorzio Turistico Langhe Monferrato Roero ospitato all’interno degli uffici dell’ATL Langhe Roero (Piazza Risorgimento, 2 – Alba).

So €6 from the Alba tourist office.

I didn't see Campania/Naples in the exhaustive list of destinations above, but I shall be in Naples for a week end of this month.

It's work, but with get out times included.

I expect to learn more than I ever thought I would about aglianico as first step, but Ian, or others, are there other grapes/locations I should be taking into account?

Cheers,

I've only traveled through Napoli, and it scares me! Others who like vibrancy & intensity will love it. Speaking with someone last week, they spoke very highly of the palazzo/museo of Capodimonte, remarking how quiet it was to stroll round (which must be very striking amongst the hubbub of Napoli). Likewise the archaeological museum houses much of the treasures of Pompeii.

For red grapes, certainly Aglianico, especially in the form of Taurasi is the star red, though avoid recent vintages of the better wines for drinking whilst there, as the great Taurasi cellar brilliantly (and can need it). Mastroberardino were the leading light for years, though others are stealing the headlines more now. FWIW I still like Mastroberardino's Taurasi wines, be it the standard Radici, Radici riserva (now named after Antonio?), and surprisingly I really liked the supposedly more modern Historia Naturalis. Others to consider include Caggiano, Tecce and Quintodecimo, but don't be afraid to ask for suggestions in the enoteche, perhaps with the guidance 'più morbide' for a softer style, or 'con (gran = big) struttura' for something more structured.

Other reds include the one-time cult wines of Montevetrano and Terra di Lavoro by Galardi, plus Nanni Cope sounds interesting, as does the stuff being made by Maffini (both white and red). From the Amalfi coast, I like the wines (white and red) of Marisa Cuomo / Gran Furor, for the reds look for the Furore or Ravello riserva, for the white the Fior d'Uva is good for cellaring, but I'm keen to try their cheaper white as well with a different grape mix. I've always wanted to try the reds from Campi Flegri (flaming fields - the volcanic area).

For whites, plenty of really good wines worth exploring, with Fiano held in very high regard and I'd agree. Finao di Avellino is the classic, but don't be afraid to try it from elsewhere. Plenty of lesser known white grapes, often blended e.g. the whites of Marisa Cuomo and others. Greco di Tufo worth a try, as is Falanghina.

Very good seafood to be had in the region, though of course this is the home of Pizza. However pasta has a very interesting history here, and I enjoyed reading this little article http://www.atlasobscura.com/article..._12_2017)&mc_cid=9bdd15e101&mc_eid=d484079bfb on how it transformed from the food of the monied, to the food of the poor, and has since transcended that with the worldwide interest in Italian food. Hopefully you'll also see Amalfi coast lemons around, and to cool off a granita (di limone) is unbeatable. Other flavours have emerged (including coffee), but I'd recommend starting with the original.

Hope this helps

regards
Ian

That's a cracking reply Ian, and very much appreciated.

Friends in Rome consider me batty for not going to Napoli before - they all - to a man and a woman - love it, and cannot speak highly enough of it. Like you, I share a little trepidation, but am fully geared to jump right in.

I did take some advice from someone a few weeks back that the best of Pompeii lies inside the main museum of Naples, so I shall put some time aside for both if possible.

Oddly, my local supermarket in Melbourne had a continuous tap on the Radici Taurasis for some years, and we got on just fine. I absolutely will not be taking in the newer vintages, but I understood that the better bars and restaurants will be serving the well aged versions by and large. It all remains to be seen, I shall certainly report in after the journey. And yes, I shall not be afraid to be guided by the master/mistress of the enoteca - nearly the most enjoyable experience in Italy is to put oneself in the hands of a dedicated local I find!

Cheers!

I love Napoli, its pretty intense, nothing pretty, when compared with Florence, rome venice etc, its like Caravaggio v Gioto, both wonderful, but there is a bit more humanity exposed in the Caravaggio.

Cant recommend where to go, just wander around

But then I love Palermo, its an acquired taste.

I really am very happy to share experience if it will help others. If I have an unwritten 'agenda', it's a desire to open people's options beyond the well-trodden tourist trail, and in doing so to get an insight into the true soul of a country which does some things horribly wrong, but many things beautifully (and often unknowingly) right - all IMO of course.

Ian S wrote: If I have an unwritten 'agenda',

I don't think its unwritten if you put it in writing...

sjw_11 wrote:

Ian S wrote: If I have an unwritten 'agenda',

I don't think its unwritten if you put it in writing...

oops