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A quest for knowledge: Part II, Spain

Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 4:29 am
by sjw_11
My key realisation trying to drink better wine in the UK is just how hard it is to get good deals. In Australia, you just shift to buy direct from cellar doors. But Europe is not as joined together as Australia, and is about to get much less so. As a result, you have a lot of middle men, and a lot of big price lifts in London say versus the price of a wine in its home market.

If you want the top 3% of European wines, you can get them easily at one of the prestige merchants for perhaps 110-20% of what you should pay. The big supermarkets are rubbish, excluding Waitrose which is OK, and Majestic is not bad but their range is a bit limited and skewed to big production labels.

If you want something "interesting" you are into the world of the hipster wine bars, orange wines, and impossible to figure out mark ups (I have paid as much as 4x in a restaurant, and 2x in a wine shop vs the true RRP in a wine's home market!). The British pound is not exactly going to help from here on either (thanks a lot, Brexiteers).

There are better deals out there, of course, but they are to be found in a myriad of small wine shops scattered around the country, selling via websites that sometimes work and sometimes don't and require a degree of trust and luck to find them.

Anyway, my thriftiness has led me to discover a good source of Spanish wine at reasonable prices. I think in general Spain, like Italy, offers great value for money if you can get past your desire to show off via the wine label you put on the table...

I will post some various reviews and notes here as I explore the regions of Spain...

Re: A quest for knowledge: Part II, Spain

Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 4:37 am
by sjw_11
When I started the Italy thread I was criticised for not pursuing a highly orderly tasting pattern. While I still eschew such laser-like focus (hey, I am a Pareto optimality kinda guy, and I get easily bored)... I have tried to be a bit more ordered with Spain.

I started with a selection of wines from the Toro region (and a few cheeky Sherries). There have been the odd Rioja thrown in as well, and some Ribera del Duero wines to look forward to.

Borrowing from BBR: "The wine region of Toro is a predominantly red-wine appellation in Castilla y León in north-western Spain. The region produces red wine across the spectrum from Joven to Gran Reserva, but all grades must be made from at least 75 percent Tinta de Toro. The best reds tend to contain 100 percent Tinta de Toro and are robust, concentrated and well-structured."

These were the first three I took notes for:

  • 2014 Teso La Monja Toro Romanico - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (3/2/2017)
    Bodega Teso La Monja is a brand within the Sierra Cantabria stable, a collection of wineries run by the Eguren family. The vines are pre-phylloxera, and it was only founded 10yrs ago. Their top wines are fabulously expensive, but this is the entry level model. A bevy of global reviews describe this in glowing terms, so you know it is well-marketed. I can't see any more technical details than 100% Tempranillo and 6mths French oak.

    Bright purple red in the glass. This has an exhiberant nose of lifted purple fruits, cherry lollies, fresh bread and cherry cola. It opens light and fruit driven but closes with a solid lick of firm tannin which seems slightly at odds with the rest of the wine and begs the question: better in a few years or slightly disjointed? (87 pts.)
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  • 2008 Bodegas Pintia Toro Pintia - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (2/19/2017)
    Dark red/purple. Dense nose of purple/red fruit and by day two a little more relaxation- bright red berries, spice. The palate has a melange of red fruits, made serious by a solid backdrop of tannin. Delicious and very drinkable today with a good decant but better in a few years. (93 pts.)
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  • 2006 Bodega del Palacio de los Frontaura y Victoria Toro Frontaura Crianza - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (2/15/2017)
    Bodegas Frontaura (as the winery name is shortened to) claims to be the reference point for the Toro region. This wine is 100% Tinta de Toro or Tempranillo, which comes from "old vines" and receives 14months in new French oak casks. The soil is clay loam, and 80,000 bottles are produced, each under cork at 14% abv.

    A mid, limpid, Claret-red in the glass, this has a slightly green and prune-like nose of ripe red fruits, overlaid on notes of roast meat, fresh earth and spice. The palate opens juicy, followed by a gentle array of drying tannin. Moderate length and a lack of intensity in the mouth are the key detractions.

    Solid wine, which I don't believe will keep much longer but offers attractive enough drinking today. (87 pts.)
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Posted from CellarTracker

Re: A quest for knowledge: Part II, Spain

Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 4:39 am
by sjw_11
A few others. The sherries are unfiltered. Really top notch and fantastic value.

  • 2009 Burgo Viejo Rioja Licenciado Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja (3/9/2017)
    Delicious, clean, medium complexity Rioja. Very good value. A little funk emerges on day 2 suggesting better to drink short to mid term. (87 pts.)
  • NV Gutierrez Colosia Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Fino - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry (2/20/2017) 91 pts.

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  • 2016 Sacristía AB Manzanilla AB, 1a saca de 2016 - Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda (2/13/2017)
    Burnished yellow in the glass, this is strikingly pure and characterful on the nose. The palate is packed with flavour, finishing with a crisp, saline, minerality. Excellent juice. (91 pts.)
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Posted from CellarTracker

Re: A quest for knowledge: Part II, Spain

Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 12:15 pm
by Ian S
sjw_11 wrote:
Anyway, my thriftiness has led me to discover a good source of Spanish wine at reasonable prices.


Decantolo? Vinissimus? There are others that ship, but these pair seem the biggies.

We just took a delivery from Portugal, courtesy of a friend with a place over there and a decent local wine merchant (not online) who was happy to ship (and whose courier was very attentive indeed). Armed with a request to get some interesting wines with some age on he did us proud. It's not often I feel comfortable entrusting a merchant to make a selection on my behalf, but armed with info on favourite regions, he did well.

Re: A quest for knowledge: Part II, Spain

Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 12:22 pm
by Ian S
Now you're shaming me.

Despite having said for years "I really ought to try a few more Spanish wines", I've bought very little and mostly the safety of good old Rioja. OK I'm wary of Priorat and 'Ribena :wink: del Duera' and others in the vanguard of the assault on America, but that's a cop out. The whites are often wonderfully fresh & vibrant, plenty of other reds of which I've tried so few (I have at least picked up a 2nd bottle of a Mencia I enjoyed), the sweeties I've tried have impressed and I've completely ignored the very genuine sherry renaissance. It's frankly a very poor show on my part :oops:

Re: A quest for knowledge: Part II, Spain

Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 7:47 pm
by Pej
I enjoy my Spanish wines but the options are pretty limited in Sydney and as usual, what is good value in Spain isn't so much once it lands here.

I spent 5 weeks in Spain last year and spent a good few days in Priorat and Rioja. Found the good producers in Priorat are creating wines with restraint (in Priorat terms) with great acidity and minerality. In Rioja the most exciting bodegas were the ones focusing on single vineyard wines which most people will know definitely isn't the norm. I love a steely, crisp Albariño and learnt Mencia makes great wine. Smashed loads of sherry in Sevilla while snacking on jamón ibérico. Plus wines from numerous other regions. What a country.

Re: A quest for knowledge: Part II, Spain

Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 7:18 am
by Cannuckbob
TN: 2011 Aljibes Cabernet Franc Chinchilla de Montearagon, Castilla-La Mancha.

Watery cherry rim but a rich medium to deep intense centre.
Aromatic nose on opening...pepper, spice, berryish, blackcurrant, no green peppers or olive. No veggie tones either. All is good!
Initial entry thought is dry-ish, soft tannins, lengthy finish, not quite a new world style. Crisp acidity here for sure with cherry, blackberry, pepper and spice. Very good fruit balance here, herbal, hint of ripeness on day 2. "Hints of green pepper" from across the table "with a big monthfeel". This CF only gets better on day 2 with more character one looks for (in a CF). Especially olives. Big success for sure, CT has some interesting notes on this area of Spain.

TN: N.V. Emilio Lustau (Almacenista) Jerz-Xeres-Sherry Oloroso Pata del Gallina 1/38 Jarana.

20 years old and comes from the oldest solera holding 38 butts. Deep amber color, very attractive. Splendid aromas of walnuts, molasses, quite toffee-ish. Dried fruits, old oak, "figs" from across the table.
Initial entry thought is dried nuts, hint of sweetness, clove for sure. Think some orange zest here along with medium level of acidity. "Nice richness, nutty, powerful" as we tuck into dates and manchego.

Re: A quest for knowledge: Part II, Spain

Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 11:52 am
by Ian S
Welcome to the forum Bob, a fine way to arrive :D

Re: A quest for knowledge: Part II, Spain

Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 4:31 am
by sjw_11
Apologies, a bit lazy in posting any further updates. Here are the notes I have made on the wines tried so far:

[*]2011 Dominio de Atauta Ribera del Duero Parada de Atauta - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (6/5/2017)
This wine is made from 100% Tinto Fino, grown 900m above sea level of sandy soils. The 2011 vintage was characterised by an absence of frost, and high summer temperatures, offset by a mild September which favoured ripening. The wine sees 12mths in French oak, 50% new.

This is a deep red/purple colour. Quite dense, fruit driven and youthful considering the 6yrs of ageing. It remains very primary. Dark purple berries, and some hints of chargrilled meat and charcuterie dominant. A hint of vanilla and a little dried herb character as well emerging on the second day.

Perhaps a little over-ripe for my tastes, though I would be curious how another 2-3yrs may help the wine relax into its skin. (87 pts.)

[*]2015 Santiago Ruiz Rías Baixas O Rosal - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas (6/5/2017)
A unique label, which apparently refers to a map drawn for guests of the makers' daughter. The blend is reportedly Albariño (69%), Loureiro (13%), Godello (5%), Treixadura (9%) and Caiño Blanco (4%). The grapes are from the families own vineyard, 38ha grown on sand with a granite base rock. Fermentation is done at controlled temperatures and there is some ageing on the lees.

This is a clean yellow/green colour in the glass. The nose is instantly fresh and appealing, with the classic hallmarks of the Albariño variety. There are notes of lemon, white flowers, tart green berry, cut grass as well as a slight hint of minerality or wet rock. The palate carries this through with good acidity and a clean, crisp finish. Excellent spring/summer drinking and very good QPR. (87 pts.)

[*]2007 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (6/5/2017)
Very corked. NR (flawed)

[*]2015 Costador Penedès Sumoll 1954 orange de noirs - Spain, Catalunya, Penedès (5/29/2017)
Intriguing wine. Quite sweet/sour in profile and better with a little air.

[*]2014 Matsu Toro El Recio - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (5/13/2017)
Deep red. Very pure but quite closed and youthful. With more air, some notes of grilled meat and charcuterie emerge, overlaying confected, liqueur style, red fruits. Quite simple and fruit dense at the moment. Some sweet stewed plums and vanilla oak on the palate- almost reminiscent of cherry coke, with fuzzy, mouth coating tannins.

Not hugely impressive today, but this remains very youthful and may receive a higher score in the future. (87 pts.)

[*]2016 Fento Wines Albariño Rías Baixas Eulogio Pomares - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas (5/13/2017)
This is a blend of 51% Albariño, 35% Treixadura, 12% Loureiro and 2% Torrontes.

Glowing green/yellow. Fresh, youthful nose of grapefruit and gooseberry. Quite tart. This carries through to the palate which is quite clean with zippy acidity. Very refreshing. Excellent as an aperitif or with seafood. Good value. (87 pts.)

[*]2016 Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes Rías Baixas Albariño D Fefiñanes - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas (5/7/2017)
Pleasant wine. Clean, moderately crisp. Good clean mouthfeel, but perhaps for my tastes a little rounded and not quite as bracingly zippy as I might look for. Would screw caps help? Of course. (87 pts.)

[*]2014 Teso La Monja Almirez - Spain (5/6/2017)
Deep plum red. Vibrant and fruit driven style. Ripe but not stewed or over ripe fruits. Very youthful still- open for 4-days with little change, suggestive of good ageing potential. Plush mouth feel with red and dark fruits, masking a still sizeable wall of tannin at the finish.

To my mind, materially more balanced than the cheaper sibling (the Romanico) which I tried a couple of weeks ago. Apparently, this sees more oak and comes from 15-65yr old vines at higher elevations. Good value. (88 pts.)

[*]2016 Bodega Fulcro Albariño Rías Baixas Finca a Pedreira - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas (5/1/2017)
Pale yellow, flecked with green. Bright, slightly tart nose. Citrus, lemon pith. Fresh and clean on the palate. Very refreshing and great QPR. (87 pts.)

[*]2010 Bodegas Bilbainas Rioja Viña Pomal Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (4/19/2017)
According to the label this is comprised of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano. It is aged for 24 months in American oak and for 36 months in bottle. The wine merchant notes the grapes are bush vine pruned, and grow on low fertility limestone soils. They add: "Viña Pomal, which was founded in 1911, is the main brand of Bodegas Bilbaínas, the oldest bottling company in La Rioja."

This is an immediately impressive wine for a bit over $20USD (circa EU23). Bright ruby red in the glass. Expressive and fragrant bouquet, with lashings of bright red berries and vanilla from the oak (though this is by no means over-bearing). With a bit of air, it takes on a slightly darker complexion, suggesting strong capacity for further development. Overall, the wine is still quite primary despite the ageing so far. The palate is balanced, and elegant, with gentle but noticeable tannins in place. (93 pts.)

[*]2016 Celler la Salada Catalunya L'Ermot - Spain, Catalunya (4/11/2017)
This winery was apparently founded in 2012. According to the merchant this is from "Pla del Penedés, Barcelona, under the D.O. Penedés. This is a personal project of Toni Carbo, a winemaker at Mas Candí, and his wife Anna." The vines are farmed organically. This is 100% Macabeu. The grapes are pressed lightly and left to ferment with their own yeasts in stainless steel tanks. No sulphur is added.

Clear yellow in the glass. This has an intriguing nose of restrained tropical fruit, straw, and a certain mineral or oyster shell-like element. Very fresh yet appealingly savoury. In the mouth that carries through, with quite round stone fruit and a gentle but balanced acidity. Very solid drinking, and great QPR. (89 pts.)

[*]2010 Les Cousins (Marc & Adrià) Priorat Sagesse - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (4/3/2017)
2010 was rated an excellent vintage in Priorat. I cannot see any information on this wine- the wineries website being more an Instagram generation affair full of fuzzy, feel good imagery and a movie, but as far as I can tell lacking in any technical detail on the three wines they produce. There is a suggestion on the web it gets 16mths French oak, and the label at least confirms it is a blend of Carinena and Garnacha. Bottled under cork at 14.5% abv.

This is mid-red in the glass. Some sediment on decanting. I have looked at this over three days and while it remains quite dense/youthful throughout, it also seems a bit one dimensional. I am struggling to get into this wine. It is not faulty by any measure, and there are some attractive plummy aspects to the fruit, supported by plush tannins which takes a back seat. It just seems a bit simple. (86 pts.)

[*]1992 Bodegas Marqués de Campo Nuble Rioja Campo Burgo Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja (4/3/2017)
Still hanging in there. Not unpleasantly tertiary- plenty of leather, but still an element of light red fruit.

[*]2014 Matsu Toro - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (4/1/2017)
Cork. 15% abv. 16mths maturation. Bright cherry red. Youthful. Lifted nose of red cherry, sweet macerated berries, and cherry liqueur. Deeply fruited. Great length and complexity. Perhaps a bit rich to age? But more likely will look better in 5yrs and drink well over 10. (92 pts.)

[*]2009 Cava Bertha Cava Brut Rosé - Spain, Cava (4/1/2017) 88 pts.

[*]2015 Alvar de Dios Hernandez Toro Aciano Tinto - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (4/1/2017)
This is a straight Tempranillo from the Toro region, coming from 96yr old vines at 700m, grown on sand according to organic practices. According to the producer this is hand harvested, with natural yeast fermentation and 20days maceration, followed by 12-14mths in mid-sized, older oak. 14% abv.

Deep purple red. On the first day this was a bit all over the shop- disjointed and a tad reductive seeming. Day 2 it has started to unfurl. It is clearly a youthful wine, with an intense nose of red/black fruits, cherry liqueur, and a hint of aged balsamic. The palate opens with sweet fruit, but a wall of firm tannin sweeps through the mid-palate adding structure.

Really solid and interesting wine, and undeniable good value.

Posted from CellarTracker

Re: A quest for knowledge: Part II, Spain

Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 8:41 am
by paulf
My big problem with Spanish wine is that I forget what I have had most of the time. I really should take better notes. Make sure you check out some of the Portuguese wines though. There is an awful lot of diversity there for a small country.

Re: A quest for knowledge: Part II, Spain

Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 9:11 am
by Ian S
Hi Paul
Have been doing so recently, though I rather focus on Dao and Bairrada still, which can be awkward/unbalanced with acid and tannins, but when good can be wonderful. I now have a couple of bottles of Colares to continue the self-inflicted pain theme, but also some more mainstream wines from Alentejo and Douro. I even have a couple of Algarve wines, but I can confirm none from Harry Webb's operation - I could never bring myself to do so.
regards
Ian

Re: A quest for knowledge: Part II, Spain

Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2017 7:04 am
by sjw_11
Progressively updating this thread with the last couple of months of notes...

[*]2009 Terra D' Uro Toro Selección - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (7/5/2017)
This comes from a small winery (at least it is small as far as I can gather from the website and a google search). They make three ones, one from young vines, one from 90yr old vines, and this from supposedly 143yr old pre-phylloxera vines. The vines are 750m above sea level and most viticulture is manual, including de-stemming.

The Selección is their signature wine. It gets 18mths in 500L French oak (not specified new or old). This is arresting even on opening. The aroma declares its Toro origins, with beautiful, ripe, Tempranillo fruit, set within a clear influence from the oak. At a guess you would think younger than 8yrs old. Very concentrated on opening, but with a little air it broadens out. Aromas of bright red fruit, almost confected red lollies, violets (I agree with the winery on this descriptor), some salumi, and a touch of oak. In the mouth this is juicy, but well structured. It opens with plush fruit, follows with surprisingly firm tannin, and closes with a lingering floral essence.

A contender for QPR of the year. No rush to drink. (93 pts.)

[*]2015 Alfredo Maestro (Bodegas y Viñedos Maestro Tejero) Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León Amanda Rosado de Lágrima - Spain, Castilla y León, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León (7/4/2017)
Corked. NR (flawed)

[*]2013 Bodegas y Viñedos Forjas del Salnés Goliardo A Telleira - Spain (7/3/2017)
As per my note on the 2015 two weeks back, this is 100pc Albariño from 60-80yr old vines in the sub-zone of Telleura. The grapes grow on sandy soils and the wine is fermented in old French oak. Once bottled, the wine spends the gee months submerged in the sea at a depth of 30 metres.

Obviously more developed than the 2015- creamier and more rounded, though the colour remains only mid-yellow. The nose shows more notes veering towards the honied end of the spectrum, although there is still a core of bright citrus. Perhaps a nutty hint as well. The palate is quite rich and ripe, but there is a good line of acidity keeping it in balance. Closes with crisp citrus.

Very good wine. I think best now or in the next year or so, but I am curious how this style would age over the mid-term. If I have a question mark, it is just on the QPR- at EU30/bottle there is a lot of competition... (89 pts.)

[*]2004 Bodegas Muga Rioja Gran Reserva Prado Enea - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (6/26/2017)
Blood red. Hint of brown/bricking. Intense, slightly one dimensional nose. Dark cherry, earth, grilled meat. Touch of wood polish and sweet vanillin. The palate is quite full, with gentle, furry tannins providing structure. Quite fruit forward still, even at 13yrs.

Perhaps a little one dimensional but I would discount that for drinking over summer. I would like to see this in 5-10yrs. (88 pts.)

[*]2008 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (6/26/2017)
Mid-red. Some brown tints at the edges. The nose is slightly secondary, with even some tertiary elements. Some funk or barnyard. Some green notes. Vanillin oak plays a significant role. On the palate there is a wave of hot, ripe red berries. Slightly unbalanced.

Not altogether convincing on this showing, but I question if the bottle was 100% sound (although there was no obvious TCA, unlike a bottle of the 2007 from the same delivery). (86 pts.)

[*]2016 Marqués de Vizhoja Señor da Folla Verde - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas (6/26/2017)
This wine is 70% Albarino, 15% treixadura, and 15% loureira according to the label. According to the merchant, this gets 40% whole bunches in the press. All fermentation is stainless steel, and the wine sees no oak.

This is a mid-yellow coloured wine. Moderately fresh, relatively typical for the style. Honestly, little stands out here and I see this as rather passable but bland. (85 pts.)

[*]2013 Bodega Numanthia Toro Termes - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (6/20/2017)
"A luxury brand of the LVMH group" says the website. Oh dear. The website is a disgrace built by people who thought graphics and sounds were cool, i.e. web developers circa 2000. Yet, honestly for sub-US$20 or equivalent, this is pretty good. I see a prior commentator says "oak resin" and I can certainly see what they mean, but I don't find it over the top compared to many other modern style Spanish wines.

It is rich, ripe, but not unbalanced. There is oak, and perhaps too much, but it isn't cheap oak. With a day of being open, there is a relative fragrance- red berry notes mixing with the winemaking influence. I rather like this.

For the record on production- this is apparently 100% Tempranillo (as is normal in Toro), from 30-50yr old vines. The finished wine gets 16 months in first use French oak. In my mind, the choice of French over US oak makes all the difference in this treatment. (89 pts.)

[*]2015 Jané Ventura Penedès Malvasia de Sitges - Spain, Catalunya, Penedès (6/20/2017)
This is a small production (1,560 bottles) wine from the Lower Penedes region of Spain. As best I can confirm this is 100pc Malvasia which is fermented and aged for several months in French oak.

The colour is quite bright yellow, flecked with green. The nose is quite broad, with some hints of citrus and honey suckle. The palate is quite rich, bordering on but perhaps just avoiding being flabby. Not sure this has the acid structure to age as suggested by the label, but I wouldn't profess sufficient familiarity with the marque or variety to be certain. (86 pts.)

[*]2015 Bodegas y Viñedos Forjas del Salnés Goliardo A Telleira - Spain (6/19/2017)
This is made from 100pc Albariño from 60-80yr old vines in the sub-zone of Telleura. The grapes grow on sandy soils and the wine is fermented in old French oak. Apparently only around 1,000 bottles are made and it is a "wine brother to the famous Sketch" of Raul Perez (according to Decantalo). Once bottled, the wine spends the gee months submerged in the sea at a depth of 30 metres.

This is at once serious, indeed almost unpleasantly concentrated. The nose is deep and ludicrous with top notes reminiscent of ripe apricots followed by a more varietal underpinning of clean citrus, oyster shell and salinity. There is also some creaminess from the malo. The palate is incredibly rich and concentrated, with layers of flavour balanced by mouth puckering acidity. Built to age.

Now, with food, or I can see this improving over at least 3-4yrs. (93 pts.)

[*]2015 Carlos Mazo Gutierrez Rioja Costumbres - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja (6/18/2017)
No formal notes, but honestly this is terrific. Ripe, voluptuous but unmoved by being open for 3+ days. This is serious juice. Very modern, but the depth is quality. I want to get a few more bottles and see how this develops over at least 5-10yrs. (93 pts.)

[*]2014 Jaume Llabres Vi de La Tierra Mallorca Son Prim Cup - Spain, Balearic Islands, Vi de La Tierra Mallorca (6/18/2017)
This winery in Mallorca in the Balearic Islands was established in the 1990s. This wine, the Cup, is their "signature blend", in their words. The blend is an unusual one- Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah and Tempranillo (no specific mix is mentioned). Production involves 12mths in oak, 80% French, 10% Hungarian and 10% American.

This is an impressive, structured, wine. The nose is clearly displaying its French oak provenance. There is some stately, Claret-esque red berries, clean vanillin, and slightly surprising purity. The palate is similar in fruit spectrum, with fine grained tannin. This will age very well for at least a decade.

For a winery list price of under 20 euros, this is a relative bargain and I would be interested to see more of their wines. (92 pts.)

[*]2016 Fento Wines Albariño Rías Baixas La Liebre y la Tortuga - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas (6/18/2017)
Great, clean crisp wine. Fantastic summer drinking. (87 pts.)

[*]2014 Casa de Si Florecita - Spain, Aragón, Calatayud (6/18/2017)
Intriguing wine. Very "on trend". Almost pinot like even though notionally a rose. Funk dominates, but doesn't fully override the crisp red fruit aromas. Slightly red/green on the palate, but not offensively so. As I say, intriguing is probably the word. Question the QPR at 20 euros. Paying for the trend perhaps?

[*]2015 Matsu Toro El Picaro - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (6/8/2017)
Soft, fruit forward wine. Lots of fleshy, red and purple fruit characters. Easy drinking and terrific QPR.

[*]2011 Celler Mas La Mola Priorat Edeició Limitada - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (6/6/2017)
According to the label, the Mas la Mola wines are the result of a partnership between Jordi Masdeu and Alessandro Marchesan. The grapes are Grenache and Carinyana, hand picked and the wine is basket pressed. The wine is aged for 18mths in French oak. 15% abv. Cork.

Only mid-red or garnet in the glass, this has a serious and arresting bouquet. There is certainly a ripeness and a clear oak tone to it, but all the elements remain in balance due to the quality of the fruit. There are notes of red berry, clove, and vanilla, as well as a distinct hint of sour cherry. The palate opens medium bodied, with a juicy fruit quality, before the oak tannin comes through to provide structure and a long finish. Quality, and great QPR.

Good now, will grow and develop for at least 5-10yrs. (92 pts.)[/list]
Posted from CellarTracker

Re: A quest for knowledge: Part II, Spain

Posted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 11:06 pm
by sjw_11
[*]2014 Matsu Toro Matsu El Viejo - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (10/9/2017)
100pc Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo) from sandstone and clay soils. Fermentation is in large concrete tanks followed by ageing in French oak for 16months.

Bright ruby red robe. Slightly simple on the nose at first before it opens up showing bright red fruit, fresh yeast, sweet plum, and gentle spice. A touch of violet perfume as well. Very primary. Medium long, fleshy palate dominated by red fruits with the tannin actually quite structured on reflection but very gentle on first taste. Great purity of expression.

Very reflective to my mind of the house style. I would really like to see how this opens up over at least 3-5 more years. (88 pts.)

[*]2014 Teso La Monja Toro Victorino - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (9/17/2017)
Deep, vibrant scarlet red. I can see why this winery is a bit of a Wine Spectator favourite. Ripe but not stewed red fruits, commendable purity. There is certainly real depth here, but it finishes with a waft of bright red fruits and a hint of confectionary. Classical Toro. Great drinking but I need to see an aged example to really understand the long term path. (91 pts.)

[*]2015 Bodegas Julián Chivite Navarra Colección 125 Rosado - Spain, Navarra (9/10/2017)
Pale salmon pink. Relatively dry and very well balanced. Delicious. (90 pts.)

[*]2009 Bodegas Muga Rioja Gran Reserva Prado Enea - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (9/9/2017)
Bright red robe, still quite deep in colour. Intense nose. There is a definite oak influence, a sense of pine resin and vanilla. As well there is crushed red berries, a hint of underbrush and a bit of VA. The palate carries through with smooth red fruits, a long finish and good acidity. Gently furry tannin completes the picture.

This is quality juice. Now to at least a decade. (93 pts.)
[*]2006 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (8/30/2017)
Unsure if this was a bad bottle or if this is creeping a bit past it? Others liked it more but this was too oxidised for me. Given the quality of the marque and prior experience I didn't expect this to be shot so I would give benefit of the doubt and say probably a bad bottle. NR (flawed)

[*]2009 Clos Figueras Priorat Clos Figueres - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (8/30/2017)
Vibrant, mid-red colour. Very youthful if appearance and bouquet, belying 8 years of age. Perhaps still somewhat simple and closed. Not overly powerful I suppose for Priorat but still quite rich, ripe and with purple tainted fruit. This was tasted over a more casual dinner so I would reserve formal notes until I can try another bottle. Certainly no rush to open one if you have some.

[*]2014 Telmo Rodríguez Toro Dehesa Gago - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (8/22/2017)
Gago is the second wine made in Toro by Telmo Rodriguez. It is sourced from 20ha of Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo) grown by third parties. Fermentation is via wild yeasts in large vats, and the ageing is a mix of larger vats and smaller barriques for 14-months.

This is a typical Toro-like bright ruby red in the glass. The nose is somewhat simple and also typical of the region, with bright red fruits, some red confection, and a ripe, spicy and character. With air there is also a hint of dried herbs. The palate is a bit thin and slightly green at this stage, with bitter chocolate tannins on the close. The acid is slightly too unbalanced for my tastes. I feel a little longer in bottle may still yet settle this down. (86 pts.)

[*]2016 Clos Lentiscus Penedès Perill Blanc - Spain, Catalunya, Penedès (8/22/2017)
Quite a unique wine... I will get another before I even attempt to describe it in words!

[*]2011 Canals S.A. (Ramon Canals) Cava Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava (8/21/2017)
Says one taster: "Off yellow bubbly cava, with a perfumed and fresh scent. Fruity and sharp in taste". Decent stuff in my view.

[*]2014 Llopart Cava Microcosmos - Spain, Cava (8/21/2017)
No formal notes, but this was very pleasant.

[*]2015 Bodegas Tobia Rioja Alma de Tobia - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja (8/21/2017)
Says one taster: "Amber rose, really quite dark for a rose. Supple and fresh. Unsurprising. A little lingering finish."

This wine sees some oak treatment which gives a very bold, dark pink colour and to my mind a distinctive flavour overlay. It is pleasant but perhaps a bit one dimensional.

[*]2010 Adegas Castro Brey Rías Baixas Castro Valdés Sin Palabras - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas (8/12/2017)
This bottle was actually the "Edition Especial" rather than the regular label bottling. It is made from 100% Albarino from 50yr old vines, and this is actually the current release (as of August 2017!). The wine spends 5yrs on its lees in stainless steel tanks. Only 4,000 bottles produced.

This is wonderfully fresh for the age. The colour is still a very youthful yellow/green. The nose is vibrant and complex, with some hints of citrus, a certain oiliness and some honeysuckle. In the mouth this is clean and balanced. Very tasty juice. (92 pts.)

[*]2015 Comando G La Bruja Averia - Spain, Madrid, Vinos de Madrid (8/5/2017)
No formal notes but this is delicious - fresh, fleshy red fruits but also a certain serious depth and structure. Great value.

[*]2013 Pagos de Domenech Vidal Xarello Penedès Cultivare - Spain, Catalunya, Penedès (8/4/2017)
This wine comes from Demenech Vidal in the Penedès. It is 100% Xarel·lo, the key local white variety. Grapes are harvested by hand. Vinification involves 4 hours skin contact, and then a mix of fermentation across cement, stainless steel, and new, "slightly toasted" French oak.

This is a bright yellow, flecked with green. The nose keeps shifting but keeps giving hints of wet hessian so I have to conclude it is mildly corked. Nevertheless, with air this does diminish and allows a sense of the wines true character to flow through. There is a distinct ripeness to the apricot/tropical fruit, but also a leaner, more saline element as well. The palate opens with tongue coating stone fruit, the finish slightly short and muddy due likely to the apparent TCA. NR for that reason. NR (flawed)

[*]2009 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Arana Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (7/28/2017)
Mid-red. Clear. Restrained and elegant on the nose. Much cleaner and more ethereal than a recent bottle of the 2008. Absolutely pristine fruit. No detrimental oak which I sometimes see with this producer. Very drinkable. (88 pts.)

[*]2016 Miguel Torres Penedès Fransola - Spain, Catalunya, Penedès (7/28/2017)
I didn't take notes on this. Honestly, I forgot this was meant to be a >EU20/bottle wine, though I noticed the bottle and cork suggested seriousness. I think this was fine. Certainly a more worked, more structured attempt at the varietal. Is it truly successful and worth the money? On this occasion it didn't move me, but I might try it again.

[*]2009 Terra D' Uro Toro Selección - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (7/18/2017)
No formal notes. Slightly less fresh and compelling than the last bottle. Is it a hint or Brett or just bottle variation? Either way it's mild and over a day or two the wine still opened up nicely.

[*]2014 Clos Figueras Priorat Font de la Figuera - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (7/12/2017)
Clos Figueras made their first wine in 1999 and apparently have only expanded since then. This is their second wine, from 15-18yr old vines. This vintage was 58pc Grenache, 25pc Carignan, 10pc Syrah and 7pc Cabernet. The wine typically sees 300-500L French one year old oak. 9,000 or so bottles produced according to the website.

This is bright red in the glass. The nose mixes the sweet, pretty red lollies of both the Grenache and Carignan with a spicy, light cinnamon element. Underlying that is just a sense of serious, brooding darker fruits from the other components. The palate is juicy fruited and fruit forward at the open, but the flavours linger nicely and it closes with gentle persistence and a slight tannin furriness in the aftermath.

Delightful wine. It carries its 15pc alcohol comfortably. Perhaps a touch ripe and exuberant for some, but I enjoy this style. I would drink fresh and young. (89 pts.)

[*]2008 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Arana Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (7/10/2017)
Only mid red. On first taste it seems a bit over developed, but the warm weather may be contributing to this. On day two the aroma has really opened up and there is a beautiful nose of wood polish, lifted red fruits and green earth. Very pleasant, very drinkable classic Rioja- good QPR. (87 pts.)

[*]NV Grupo Yllera Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León Yllera 5.5 Rosé Frizzante - Spain, Castilla y León, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León (7/10/2017)
Sweet, confected and mildly fizzy. Gluggable but not compelling for my tastes. (80 pts.)

[*]1995 Bodegas Alejandro Fernández Ribera del Duero Tinto Pesquera - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (7/1/2017)
Only brief notes. Consumed for a birthday celebration.

This is still mid-red. Good cork- soaked through but intact. Nose is tertiary but not over the top in terms of fun. Green. Earth. A mineral element. Hint of poo. Slightly falls over after 30min to an hour. Delicious wine, fully resolved and offering very pleasant drinking now and the short-term from here.[/list]

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Re: A quest for knowledge: Part II, Spain

Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 9:48 pm
by sjw_11
  • 2013 Miguel Torres Priorat Salmos - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (1/3/2018)
    I have tried hard to write a formal note for this, but I just get lost in a single, seamless tapestry of soft red fruits, spice, a hint of oak- a fairly integrated package albeit still very fresh, vibrant and youthful. Tasty wine. Good QPR? Hmm. Undecided. Would like to lose one in the cellar for 10yrs and see what would happen.
  • 2009 Quinta do Noval Cedro do Noval - Portugal, Douro, Vinho Regional Duriense (11/27/2017)
    Another surprise package from my corner store.

    Still deep mid red. Brawny nose, showing an attractive blend of beef stock or pan juices, charcuterie, as well as a backdrop of lifted red berries. The palate opens very fresh with tart red berries. I can see why others mention acid but its very well in balance for my taste. Finishes long and clean.

    Food friendly and terrific value. (87 pts.)
  • 2008 Pazo de Señoráns Albariño Rías Baixas Selección de Añada - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas (11/13/2017)
    Reserve bottling of Albariño that spent 30 months on its lees in steel tanks before bottling. Very fresh and intense with searing acidity. Perhaps a little one dimensional with not emerging over three days other than a bright citrus character and a wall of acid. Very intrigued to see what this would look like in 5 years time. (87 pts.)
  • NV Bodegas Tradición Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Amontillado 30 Years Old VORS - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry (10/10/2017)
    The nose is rich and deep, with elements of candied quince and savoury saline conveying a sort of sweet/sour impression. There is classic rancio too but not in lashings. In the background a whiff of old mahogany.

    In the mouth this bursts with life. Incredibly, searingly intense. Almost unbearably so on first opening but it settles with a little air. Vibrant, sea like acidity puckers the mouth. The finish lingers long after you swallow, showing a delicious nuttiness. (94 pts.)
  • 2010 Bodegas Habla S.L Vino de la Tierra Extremadura No 11 - Spain, Extremadura, Vino de la Tierra Extremadura (10/10/2017)
    Slightly mixed results from a half dozen of these acquired at a very good price (with free glassware!) last xmas. This however was an excellent bottle. The blend is Cabernet, Tempranillo, Petit Verdot.

    Mid red in the glass, the nose offers a mix of gentle red berries, plum, purple floral characters and just a hint of leathery complexity. In the mouth this remains fresh and quite juicy, with fleshy red fruit characters before a finish of gentle, furry tannin. The back label offers a descriptor of "quince, rock rose, leather, nut"... I think the first two are more evident than the last (surprising given the extra bottle age). Drink now. (90 pts.)
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