The Auswine Forum

Lately I've been disappointed with many, many of the Australian reds that I once enjoyed.

I'm finding so many of the wines to be overoaked which is a turn-off to start with. Even those that have a good balance of fruit to oak I'm finding to be extremely sweet and often viscous in consistency. I used to quite enjoy this, especially as much of my wine drinking is without food (ie supping whilst listening to music, reading, watching the TV, etc), however now I'm finding them to be cloying.

Richness of flavour is fine - I do enjoy wines that are packed with a myriad of flavours. Many of these full-powered wines are quite boring though. What masquerades as a richly-flavoured wine is in fact a monolithic, simple wine that fails to hold interest both young or old. "A candidate for pinot", I hear many people saying - but in truth I have not been impressed by many pinots to date either - including Burgundy.

Now, I don't want to sound like someone who doesn't like wine - I love the stuff - but are there others out there that will admit to the same disappointment of late? Any suggestions of producers that deliver? I'm talking reds here - not whites.

At the moment, apart from a few select producers I'm starting to think that the thing Australia really does well most consistently is the casual drinker: wines around $12-25 that can be enjoyed with friends at a BBQ or on the verandah just chatting. No great expectations, but a good honest drink.

Any comments? suggestions?

Simon,

To some extent I agree with you. There has been a trend in recent years to try and improve and maximise ripeness of the grapes. In many cases the wineries are going over the top and getting into either stewed dead fruit or fermented prune juice thats a bit one dimensional.

Its a bit like the quest for oak, many went to far with the American stuff a while back and have now moderated the use of oak, hopefully that will happen with the fermented prune juice suppliers.

Some producers that I find honestly priced that deliver the goods:

Veritas - Good quaffing level wines in the Christa Rolf series, but the higher level Bull's Blood and Hanisch are absolutely superb in the way that they deliver a "complex" flavour profile within a balanced structure. Texturally the wines aren't cloying, but have amazingly fine grained tannins, and well integrated acid. Not just simple plums and choclate, they have a touch of spice that keeps palate interest.

Cape Mentelle shiraz - A more savoury take on the shiraz grape that is refreshing. Enough sweetness to keep the wine from going completely feral, and sensible oak treatment. Many would probably call the savoury nature "Rhoneish". Call it what you will, it's a pleasant break from grape cordial.

Plantagenet shiraz - Oak a little prominent in some vintages, but the complexity is all from the lovely Mt Barker fruit. I'll try anything that delivers these five-spice flavours. "complexity" right from the get go, without having to wait for developed, secondary fruit flavours.

Turkey Flat, Rockford Basket Pressed - price creeping up a bit, but there is something about the combination of basket pressed fruit (on the TF as well?) from old, old vines, combined with restrained oak and honest winemaking.

Wild Duck Ck - In a slightly different mold to those that I usually like (see above) and as high in alcohol as I'd want to get (higher actually). When I just want to enjoy a rich, big red then this stuff rates highly on the pleasure scale. Full bore fun, without the syrup and oak that other big alcohol wines also seem to want to have. I think the terroir of Heathcote makes for a touch of spicy, peppery complexity here too.

There are others in the cellar waiting to be tried from Langmeil, Kaesler, etc that based I comments read here on Auswine I am likely to enjoy.
Anyone else with some pointers?

Simon,

Do you mean to focus predominantly on Shiraz?

What about the great cabernet to be found in Western Australia, victoria, coonawarra etc?

Hello Kenzo,

I agree with you. As such, I am enjoying whites more at the moment. I also am getting back into Cabernet (especially Vic) rather than Shiraz, and also European wines, especially Italian reds.

I have found that a significant change in my diet has affected this. I have really cut out sweets from my diet and now notice rich flavours much more.

I am staying away from SA reds but am still happy to drink the odd ones like Rockford that have not succumbed to the trend. I found Clonakilla's second Shiraz, the 2002 Hilltops to be amazing. 15% alcohol, without being overripe, and is balanced. In Australia, this is my current recommendation (I also recommend the top Clonakilla but this one is $40 less!!!).

Adair

egad, two responses to mine own post...what a sad case I am.

Also was interested in a Domaine A cabernet I tried once. If any wine could be said to have "lashings", then this wine was it. Lashings of cabernet essence.

And how could I forget Majella? The shiraz didn't warm my cockles, but the cabernet is well priced, and just a delightful wine to drink. A touch of cabernet "leafiness" (see what that other thread has done? now I'm to afraid to write my descriptors without ""!), red berry (too afraid to write cassis/blackcurrant), and more. Sensible oak. Nice wine.

Will add more as they spring to mind.

I found the domaine a cabernet to have an overpowering liquiefied asparagus nose, both the 1995 and recent vintage I tasted, not pleasant at all!

I served it blind at a tasting group and everyone swore it must a NZ cabernet...

Hi Adam,

You could have me there on the Domaine A cabernet. It was memorable, but mainly I just wanted to use the word "lashings" in a post.
And what lovely cabernet coming out of these regions mentioned above? I have tried examples of them, and whilst nice enough not many ring my bell - eg Devils Lair, Xanadu (standard and reserve), etc. What do you recommend?

I don't mean to focus primarily on shiraz, hence my posting of the Majella cabernet as a worthy. Good point though - I guess my problem lies especially with the way shiraz is being handled by many winemakers, though can also say that cabernet also suffers.

Is that Ch Palmer as your avatar? With many of the top Australian cabernet and shiraz wines fetching similar prices to their old world counterparts, do you have any comments on quality/style differences?

Adair - Yes! Clonakilla is a fave - forgot to mention it. Also eagerly awaiting a trial of the Craiglees I have in the cellar.

I have also enjoyed several wines from the Yarra Valley - Coldstream Hills Reserve Merlot, etc.
de Bortoli are doing good, consistent things without being raved about. Nice wines.

Well, the old classics, Moss Wood and Cullen. Also when I was there last I enjoyed the Hay Shed Hill 99 and Voyager. The Cape Mentelle 99 is also excellent and ages like a dream. Gralyn were also a fav of mine but very big and overpriced. From other regions I like the Yeringberg from a good year and Mt Mary.

I do buy a fair bit of bordeaux, like you, I currently live in Asia and thus the price of bordeaux can be comparative to aussie cabernet.

What do I find in bordeaux that I dont in aussie cabernet?? well its hard to put a finger on it as some of the aussies are very bordeauxish (I have often mixed them up in blind tastings). I think its mainly a stylistically difference, the ones I tend to drink are more "classical", slightly lower alcahol, generally they pack less of a punch but have a wonderful balance between fruit oak and tannin, they also generally dont get that sweetness that you commented on. I tend to drink bordeaux with at least 10 yrs as I love the earthy aged characters when the tannins have died down.

Note that I am referring to the ones I tend to drink, Margaux and Paulliac, obviously there are many exceptions in region with so many producers. I have a long standing love for Palmer and Margaux. Luckily I was left a few cases of ancient vintages to slowly work my way through!

I have been enjoying the 1997 and 1994 vintages recently, not great vintages but they drink very well right now.

I have heard many good things about the Domaine A, I just didnt get it

Cheers, Adam

Oh, THAT Adam... how're things?

I have a couple of Hay Shed Hill from '86 that are waiting to be tried - will let you know how they've aged.

Picked up a few bottles from the recent sales here - '00 Beausejour Becot and '00 d'Armaillhac. BTW if you like Couspade they had the '00 for 5,900 yen which is comparitively cheap.

Cheers,

Simon