Page 1 of 1

Top Australian Wines of the 90's

Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2004 11:13 am
by Aussie Johns
Had a look at the DB this morning, and saw the thread on "all-time" greats, which steals my thunder somewhat.
Had a long, lavish lunch at Pireaus Blues late Sunday afternoon, the Greek food paired with the 1990 Grange and 1990 Hill of Grace for the four of us to consume (part of a bet, and BTW, not wasted on the magnificent grilled meats served to us).
We got talking about the greatest Aussie wines, much to the wives delight ( :roll: ), and in particular, the wines of the 90's.
What a fascinating and utterly important decade that was for our industry- in those ten years we became a world player, not only in export volumes, but also in the premium wine market.
Whilst Grange and HOG flagged the potential of our industry to prospective overseas markets from as early as the mid-70's, it was the rise of the "cult" wineries in the 90's that firmly and finally established Oz as a producer of world-class premium wines.
In 1990, Greenock Creek, Three Rivers, Turkey Flat, Henry's Drive, Fox Creek, Wild Duck Creek, Torbreck, Giaconda, and a host of other now-famous boutique wines were either non-existant or in the early fledgling stage. We all knew of Cullens, Moss Wood, Peter Lehmann etc., but they were still pretty much of national interest only.
Boom,.....along came Parker and others, just at the right time. Not only were the boutiques really getting going, but many of the established wineries were adding a super-premium lable to their range. Yalumba developed their "reserve", Rosemount its "Balmoral", Peter Lehmann his "Stonewell", Penfolds its "Yattarna" and "RWT" lables, Petaluma its "Tiers", Wynns the "Michael", etc etc.
In the mid-90's, Wine Spectator named the 1990 Grange as its wine of the year, and we were off and running.......
The Oz wine industry is now famous for everything from its Yellow tail chardonnay to its Three Rivers shiraz, and can compete with any of the world's wine super-powers at any level of the market.
Oz wines now dominate international wine internet forums, they are all the rage on every web site from Robert Parker to Wine Spectator. Even the most stoic British wine writer (or wine snob, if you prefer their true description) has had to reluctantly acknowledge their success and in-roads into markets that were once the exclusive domain of their beloved French wines, from "Vin ordinaire" to Grand Cru Bordeaux. Oz wine, incredibly, is now freely available in stores and restaurants in Paris: the last bastion has been stormed.

Virtually all the great wines of the 90's have now been released, with the obvious exception of the 99 Grange (which I have seen), and it seems a good time to ponder the truly great wines that have were produced in Oz during those fabulous ten years, a difficult and contraversial task indeed.
Still, we gave it a good go on Sunday, and here is what we came up with:

1. 1996 Greenock Creek "Creek Block" shiraz

2. 1996 Penfold's Grange shiraz

3. 1990 Henschke "Hill of Grace" shiraz

4. 1994 Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon

5. 1995 Leeuwin Estate "Art Series" chardonnay

6. 1990 Penfold's Bin 90A cabernet-shiraz

7. 1991 Three Rivers shiraz

8. 1995 Houghton "Show Reserve" shiraz

9. 1998 Petaluma "Coonawarra" cabernet

10. 1996 Giaconda chardonnay

Of course, many great wines missed out on our list. 1990/98 Grange are probably the two most obvious choices, but if I were to put in another, it would have been the 96 d'Arenberg Dead Arm. The 1990 and 91 Leonays are looking really smart too, and maybe in another decade, I will have wanted one of those in the list.
Would love to see your choices, maybe one day we can arrangge a dinner with the popular choices! :D

Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2004 2:27 pm
by Blake
Good list. I agree that the 90A should be in it. It constantly amazes me that this sells at auction for half the price of the 1990 Grange. And for that matter it constantly amazes me that 1996 Grange sells for about $200 less per bottle than the 1998. Whatever the reasons are they are not related to the comparative quality of the liquid in the bottles.

Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2004 3:58 pm
by Adair
Hello Aussie,

I am surprised you don't put the 1996 Greenock Creek Roennfeldt Road Shiraz considering you give it 100pts. Did the rest of the wines in your list get an Aussie John 100pts?

Adair

Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2004 4:07 pm
by Baby Chickpea
Good list - One very notable and stark omission (to me anyway) is the stunning 96 Block 42 (the best cabernet I have ever tasted from Australia), which I would place instead of either the Petaluma or Greenock.

At the very top I would put the 90 HoG - a truly world class and awesome wine and it only cost me $30 per bottle on release!.

One potential - if controversial - candidate is the 97 Bass Phillip Reserve Pinot - anyone I know who has tasted this has rated it as truly Grand Cru and raves incessantly - the best vintage ever for arguably Australia's best pinot producer and Halliday/Oliver/ Hooke/White have all unanimously raved and raved. This may well be in a genuine class of its own - I'm currently working my through a BP vertical and the 97 is up for tasting in a week or so ....

Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 12:47 pm
by Guest
Few other wines that come to mind which made me sit up and think are:

1996 Moss Wood cab

1998 Brokenwood Graveyard

1991 Hollick Ravenswood cab (unanimous WOTN at our tasting recently)

1991 Bass Phillip reserve pinot (more mature and hence (?) showing better than 1994 or 1997 at this point in time).

The Block 42 (tasted last year ?) was still very elemental.

sanjay

Re: Top Australian Wines of the 90's

Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 3:51 pm
by Guest
Aussie Johns wrote: 1. 1996 Greenock Creek "Creek Block" shiraz

2. 1996 Penfold's Grange shiraz

3. 1990 Henschke "Hill of Grace" shiraz

4. 1994 Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon

5. 1995 Leeuwin Estate "Art Series" chardonnay

6. 1990 Penfold's Bin 90A cabernet-shiraz

7. 1991 Three Rivers shiraz

8. 1995 Houghton "Show Reserve" shiraz

9. 1998 Petaluma "Coonawarra" cabernet

10. 1996 Giaconda chardonnay
......
Would love to see your choices, maybe one day we can arrangge a dinner with the popular choices! :D


Since you asked: in terms of sheer quality of wine, no white deserves a place in the top 10 Oz wines of the decade (1990-9 inclusive as defined).

Even if they did I would probably argue for the 1991 Giaconda (just) ahead of the 96 and 95 LEAS.

I assume I am permitted to go on potential rather than current drinking:-

1. Penfolds bin 90A

2. Penfolds bin 920

3. Cullens 1995 Cab-merlot

4. Moss Wood 1991/1995 CS

6. Mt Mary Quintet 1990

7. Penfolds Grange 1990

8. Henschke HOG 1990

9. Grange 1996

10. St Henri 1990


Yep, I know I disdained the cults for the big shop, but I have seen the big shop at work and these wines are here for the long haul - the most controversial being the Mt mary (like it or hate it ) and the St Henri which I love as a style (and having just knocked off my last 86...), and wanted to include one.

With the arguable exception of the 1990 St Henri, there is not a single wine in my list which is at its peak yet - which is one of the reasons they are great as they will add to their complexity.

Before other wine producers get a look in, note the wines that missed out: 1991 & 1998 Grange, Cullens 1994, Cullens 1996.

Note that I did not quite manage another Victorian wine (although there are many contenders in the style), nor could I find a place for any wine from the Hunter (the 1998 Graveyard being the best but nowhere near the 2000 Graveyard which was excluded by the definition).

While Three Rivers is beautifully crafted it has yet to quite manage to persuade me to rank it (perhaps it is the price since "discovery" which I find offputting), and I want to see one blossom to its peak before it can aspire to my list.

Wait another 10-15 years and try the 2 Penfolds blends and they will be a revelation. Even if Grange was not a personal favourite, the sheer quality of at least 90, 91, 96, 98 Grange, is such for our premium cru that it cannot be ignored.

HOG has become superexpensive (and its brother MT Edelstone which used to surpass it in the longhaul has - relatively - lost its way) but the 1990 is a special wine.

fred

Re: Top Australian Wines of the 90's

Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 11:25 pm
by Daryl Douglas
[/quote]Since you asked: in terms of sheer quality of wine, no white deserves a place in the top 10 Oz wines of the decade (1990-9 inclusive as defined).

Even if they did I would probably argue for the 1991 Giaconda (just) ahead of the 96 and 95 LEAS.

I assume I am permitted to go on potential rather than current drinking:-

1. Penfolds bin 90A

2. Penfolds bin 920

3. Cullens 1995 Cab-merlot

4. Moss Wood 1991/1995 CS

6. Mt Mary Quintet 1990

7. Penfolds Grange 1990

8. Henschke HOG 1990

9. Grange 1996

10. St Henri 1990


Yep, I know I disdained the cults for the big shop, but I have seen the big shop at work and these wines are here for the long haul - the most controversial being the Mt mary (like it or hate it ) and the St Henri which I love as a style (and having just knocked off my last 86...), and wanted to include one.

With the arguable exception of the 1990 St Henri, there is not a single wine in my list which is at its peak yet - which is one of the reasons they are great as they will add to their complexity.

Before other wine producers get a look in, note the wines that missed out: 1991 & 1998 Grange, Cullens 1994, Cullens 1996.

Note that I did not quite manage another Victorian wine (although there are many contenders in the style), nor could I find a place for any wine from the Hunter (the 1998 Graveyard being the best but nowhere near the 2000 Graveyard which was excluded by the definition).

While Three Rivers is beautifully crafted it has yet to quite manage to persuade me to rank it (perhaps it is the price since "discovery" which I find offputting), and I want to see one blossom to its peak before it can aspire to my list.

Wait another 10-15 years and try the 2 Penfolds blends and they will be a revelation. Even if Grange was not a personal favourite, the sheer quality of at least 90, 91, 96, 98 Grange, is such for our premium cru that it cannot be ignored.

HOG has become superexpensive (and its brother MT Edelstone which used to surpass it in the longhaul has - relatively - lost its way) but the 1990 is a special wine.

fred[/quote]

Hi Fred

Haven't tasted any of the wines mentioned in any of the above posts. Do have a sole Grange 96 and a couple of Petaluma Coonawarra 98 though and am patiently waiting for them to enter their peak drinking windows.

Good to see you've included a Cullen in your list though the 95 is arguably not their best of the decade. I've tasted only Cullen's Cab/Merl 99 and 01. There's a very interesting article by Halliday on the Winepros members' page, including a vertical tasting of vintages from 1975 to 2001 that he attended at the winery in July 03.

Notwithstanding 95 being the first year the reserve's fruit was blended with that of the previous regular wine and the first of this wine in the vertical he estimated to have a cellaring potential of 30+ years (there are a few up to 30 years), surpassing even the revered Reserve 94, it's not the wine he says deserves a 6th star (5 star vintage ratings). That honour goes to the only other wine in the vertical with an estimated cellaring potential of 30+ years - 1999.

Cheers

daz

Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 9:08 am
by Aussie Johns
Adair,
You are quite correct. However, you will notice that this is the list that "we" came up with, and the other member of the selection panel is not a huge fan of the RR series, but was happy to agree with the quality of the Creek Block.
If it was purely my list, the 96RR would be in (probably at the top), and the two whites would not have appeared, although I agree both are great wines.

Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 9:24 am
by Mike Hawkins
daz,

Sorry but I go with Fred here. The 95 Cullen is the best wine that I've ever had from WA. The 90, 99 and 01 are superb, but the 95 takes it to the next level.

Cheers

Mike

Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 11:56 am
by Aussie Johns
Mike Hawkins wrote:daz,

Sorry but I go with Fred here. The 95 Cullen is the best wine that I've ever had from WA. The 90, 99 and 01 are superb, but the 95 takes it to the next level.

Cheers

Mike


Have you tried the Howard Park 1994??
Been involved in many WA/Margaret River tastings, and although the 1995 Cullens is a smart wine, it is totally overshadowed by the simply freakish HP from the previous year. Still, I would rate it number two to thw HP, with the Cullens 94 Reserve a whisker behind.

Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 12:11 pm
by Mike Hawkins
AJ,

Haven't tried the 94 HP. Must try and track one down.

Mike

Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 3:25 pm
by Guest
Aussie Johns wrote:Adair,
You are quite correct. However, you will notice that this is the list that "we" came up with, and the other member of the selection panel is not a huge fan of the RR series, but was happy to agree with the quality of the Creek Block.
If it was purely my list, the 96RR would be in (probably at the top), and the two whites would not have appeared, although I agree both are great wines.


Aussie Johns is absolutely correct to mention that if it was purely his list, the 96RR would be in (probably at the top), and the two whites would not have appeared.
To me, I donÂ’t think there can be a list at all Â… consider these factors:
- Personal taste preference
- Style
- Storage
- Bottle variation
- Variety
- Availability
Etc. etc. and etc.
To be perfectly honest, if Aussie Johns is offered a blinding tasting of the entire 90Â’s Penfold range of wine, I dare heÂ’ll be able to pick out the 96 Grange and the 90 Bin 90A!

Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 4:48 pm
by Aussie Johns
Guest,
Please supply one excellent, four-course dinner and the entire range of Penfold's wines, and I will happily do my best to prove you wrong. :wink:

Best of

Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 5:00 pm
by Chuck
It's great to see Penfolds Bin 90A getting some gongs. It's my favourite ever - better than sex!!

I can't say the same for the sister Bin 920. Anne and I had one last week and we were a little disappointed however my expectations were probably a little high after the 90A. It may say something about Coonawarra Shiraz and my preferences. The Barossa Shiraz in the 90A is more to my taste. Heaven in a glass but let it breath for around 4-6 hours. I look forward to the remaining bottles but perhaps in another 5-20years.

Chuck

Re: Best of

Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 5:07 pm
by markg
Chuck wrote: - better than sex!!



Jeez, I don't think I will ever taste a wine that is THAT good :oops:

Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 9:10 pm
by JamieBahrain
So freakish was the 94 Howard Park, I bought the 95. :cry:

Drank 3 and sent the rest off to auction.

Good to see the inclusion of some WA cabernet or cabernet blends- Moss Wood, Cullens & Howard Park have gone a way in taking Australian cabernet to another level during the 90's.

Better than Sex

Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2004 12:51 pm
by Chuck
Mark,

Here is the test

You are with your spouse or partner or casual acquaintance and a bottle of Penfolds Bin 90A and you are asked to decide between a romp between the sheets or drink the wine. Which would you choose?

Chuck

Re: Better than Sex

Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2004 1:54 pm
by BA
Chuck wrote:Mark,

Here is the test

You are with your spouse or partner or casual acquaintance and a bottle of Penfolds Bin 90A and you are asked to decide between a romp between the sheets or drink the wine. Which would you choose?

Chuck



Chuck,

Call for the Bin90A and two glasses. :wink:


BA

Re: Best of

Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2004 6:28 pm
by Guest
Chuck wrote:It's great to see Penfolds Bin 90A getting some gongs. It's my favourite ever - better than sex!!



you sure you're not doing it wrong?

Re: Better than Sex

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 10:26 am
by markg
Chuck wrote:Mark,

Here is the test

You are with your spouse or partner or casual acquaintance and a bottle of Penfolds Bin 90A and you are asked to decide between a romp between the sheets or drink the wine. Which would you choose?

Chuck


I would have the romp while letting the wine breathe.