TN: Domaine Fourrier 1996 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques

[David Lole]

Just for the hell of it.

Solid light ruby. Intriguing, complex, evershifting bouquet from sappy strawberry and bing cherry to bush tomato, hung game, Asian spices, with the perfect savoury, cinnamon oak counterbalance. This could do with a few more years and thensome to border on the sublime. If anything, this wine tastes better than the nose promises. Creamy old-vine intensity, riddled with strawberry and Satsuma plum, perfectly judged acidity and the finest, lacey tannins imaginable. Better still, the silkiness, sexiness and superb balance leave me grasping for words to relate the absolute joy I'm suffering. This maker possesses the rare gift of creating an elegant, seamless wine, so light on its feet, yet with perplexing dimension and such imposing nuances. If there's a Holy Grail out there, this wondrous Pinot Noir goes as close to it I've tried in recent years. Outstanding wine that will surely achieve an Ultimate rating once the nose reaches its' apogee. My only disappointment - I drank this without the company of a few close friends to share the memorable experience. Luckily a few more are in the cellar to share in years to come.

[Anthony]

Just for the hell of it.
If there's a Holy Grail out there, this wondrous Pinot Noir goes as close to it I've tried in recent years. .

Isn't it funny David, that it is only Pinot Noir lovers who talk about this holy grail. I think if we are ever going to find it, it will definitely be in Gevrey-Chambertin which is one of the most amazing places to visit (and not to mention the wines).

I think the wheel is finally turning for Pinot Noir again, with the enthusiasm back and the search is definetely on again for the holy grail.

cheers
anthony

[Michael]

[quote="AnthonyIsn't it funny David, that it is only Pinot Noir lovers who talk about this holy grail. I think if we are ever going to find it, it will definitely be in Gevrey-Chambertin which is one of the most amazing places to visit (and not to mention the wines).

[/quote]

Anthony,
why Gevrey specifically, and perhaps not some other regions?


David,

Jean marie Fourrier is well on his way to being a superstar, though that said I am not sure he had taken over by the 1996 vintage?
His Clos st Jacques is always tremendous, though oddly my fav of the moment is 2000, followed by the 02 cask samples.

[David Lole]

David,

Jean marie Fourrier is well on his way to being a superstar, though that said I am not sure he had taken over by the 1996 vintage?
His Clos st Jacques is always tremendous, though oddly my fav of the moment is 2000, followed by the 02 cask samples.

Michael,

Coates' review of Fourrier's '96 offerings (after his visit to the area in September and October 1997) opens with "Jean-Marie.....is now firmly in charge here. And Quality is on the way back to its former glory.....J-M now produces the premier crus seperately, does not fine or filter, and employs a maximum of 20% new wood. A domaine to watch!". So it sounds like he'd taken over, at least with this vintage. Also, interesting to read J-M did stages with Henri Jayer.

While I'm here, this is Clive's note on the wine above.

"This is of grand cru quality, and it is rewarding to note that now all five in this famous climat now produce wine as good as it should be. Full, rich, concentrated. Very good grip. Very fine depth of character. Long, complex, poised and very, very elegant. Fine plus. From 2005/2006".

In fact, this wine reminds me somewhat of the texture and calibre of Jayer's '82 Cros Parentoux tasted in the early 90's.

[Anthony]

David,
was the place where we stopped in Burgundy last year and after coming up through the tacky French Riverera, Gevrey just blew us away.

Also for me, this sums up Top Burgundy for me: the feminine nature of a great Pinot, and especially for Gevrey-Chambertin is pretty hard too beat.

cheers
anthony

[Aussie Johns]

I am a huge fan of Fourrier, and loaded up big time on his 96's and 99's.

To be honest, I think you have just committed infanticide, but it is great that they are drinking already. I won't be touching the majority of 96 burg for at least another five years.

His Griottes is a stunning wine, but the CSJ is no slouch either. Next to Clos des Lambrays, this domaine represents the best value in high-end Burgundy.

[Michael]

David,
was the place where we stopped in Burgundy last year and after coming up through the tacky French Riverera, Gevrey just blew us away.

Also for me, this sums up Top Burgundy for me: the feminine nature of a great Pinot, and especially for Gevrey-Chambertin is pretty hard too beat.

cheers
anthony

Anthony,
you're confusing me now, Gevrey is not feminine in anyway.
Vosne/Chambolle/Volnay yes, Gevrey no.

Typically Gevrey is more earthy and full, alongside the masculine profiles of Nuit St George.

David,
Jean Marie took over in 1994 apparently.

M

[Stan]

Hi All,

lovely passionate presentations.

David, this note of yours is brilliant! Bordering on the 'Tim White', if you know what I mean, with very specific descriptors and the overall impression is similiar to my impression of this wine. Brilliant.

I have been drinking quite a few of the 2000s from Fourrier. Infanticide? I don;t know. I love juicy, perfumed, sexy pinot fruit young and Fourrier's are just that, even young.

Michael, why are you such a disagreeable bastard?!?! Gevrey can be and often is perfumed. And often masculine as you say. Certainly Beze and Le C. are normally concentrated and robust but Lavaux and Clos St. J are often perfumed and feminine. Burgundy cliches about where is spice, where is perfumes often hold true but are often undermined.

And Auusie John sounds like a real devotee....who bloody drinks the stuff and revels in it! Perfect.

I know a few people who reckon Fourrier makes lighter wines than the appellation suggests (ie 1ers are like village, GCs like 1ers) but I think the point of these wines is purity, perfume and harmony.

All the best.

[Michael]

Michael, why are you such a disagreeable bastard?!?! Gevrey can be and often is perfumed. And often masculine as you say. Certainly Beze and Le C. are normally concentrated and robust but Lavaux and Clos St. J are often perfumed and feminine. Burgundy cliches about where is spice, where is perfumes often hold true but are often undermined.

if you say so stan

BTW all wines have perfume, does not make them feminine, it was a very simple analogy that's all. I would not consider any CSJ feminine, compared to say Chambolle Amoureuses, or are you saying within the context of Gevrey - and if so what's the point of that?

Let me give you the best Gevrey producers:
Rousseau
Bachelet
Dugat
Dugat-Py
Mortet
Roty

How many of those wines would you describe as feminine? Would you recommend any of them to a novice looking for a feminine style, or someone who wanted muscular fullbodied burgundy? what about a regular customer you wanted to steer the right way?

My point is that is important to clarify what you can expect from these wines because they cost an awful lot.

I don't understand why you find this difficult?

[Stan]

Thanks for the advice on the growers. It's a stern way in which you impart this information. Nothing very gentle in the delivery.

Indeed, you are correct, in my opinion and I guess that of most Burgundy followers, that Chambolle really expresses perfume and so on in comparison to Gevrey. However, so very many times wines masked either by themselves or alongside others jump the borders of what we expect from villages and confound us. I don't know of many tasters who get the village right all the time

It seems too dogmatic to emphatically contend that Gevrey is not feminine (cannot be?) when in many vintages some fine producer's wines are considered, by others if not you, feminine. I agree, perfume does not make a wine feminine but it's on the right path.

Burgundy is semantics and this is the beginning of a semantic thread, possibly!

By the way, did you visit Engel on your visit? And is the Gros dynasty a clarified topic?


Tread easily and with generosity.

Happy drinking and arguing.

[David Lole]

Thanks for the kind words, Stan.

[Anthony]

Did I mention that I also find Hunter Valley Pinot noir feminine?

[edrobins]

David - terrific notes, but they make me green with envy! For those of us without bottomless wallets, what does it cost to get hold of this level of top-flight burgogne? ED.

[Stan]

Langtons have some 1996 Fourrier CSJ currently bidding around $100.00

[Guest]

Thanks for the advice on the growers. It's a stern way in which you impart this information. Nothing very gentle in the delivery.

Stan,
that wasn't my intention, and for that I apologise.

Yes I did visit Engel, and tasted again when phillipe attended a recent trade fair.
Brulees was quite fair, rich and full, but still lacking dimension.
The vougeot was looking very good actually, concentration, intensity and a nice minerality to it. Still needs 10 years, much better than I remember.
Exchezeaux - bit dull, massive but without complexity.

As for the Gros, that wasn't left unresolved.

Also Villages are not necessarily easily picked, particularly at village level, but at higher levels and further removed they can be.
No one is always going to pick NSG Boudots from Vosne, but neither should you confuse Aloxe Corton with Gevrey.

As I said above, perhaps a little more bluntly that I meant, but it is a common complaint that Burgundy is too hard to understand, but many consumers don't put in the work either. It is neither too hard, nor poor value etc, if you know where to look and from whom. There are many great values at all price points, quality has never been higher, as long as you pay a little attention the whole area unfolds.
I was trying to encourage Anthony not to short cut himself on this with broad generalisations, though without thinking too much about my tone.

M

[Stan]

Thanks for the notes on Engel. Any highlights from other producers?

I agree that Burgundy offers wonderful value if understood but how many people really understand it, or spend the time/$$? It takes lots of tastings, drinking, visiting and cellaring to begin the journey to understanding. It really is the endpoint for wine passionate people. There is no other place to go for diversity and the possibility of the etheral.

We drank a sensational village Clevalier Vosne Montagne 2000 the other night. Pale and perfumed. Dead sexy. Brilliant value to me, but most drinkers probably would have dismissed it as lacking grunt and ignored the enormous charm.

And charm is good!

[Michael]

Thanks for the notes on Engel. Any highlights from other producers?

I agree that Burgundy offers wonderful value if understood but how many people really understand it, or spend the time/$$? It takes lots of tastings, drinking, visiting and cellaring to begin the journey to understanding. It really is the endpoint for wine passionate people. There is no other place to go for diversity and the possibility of the etheral.

We drank a sensational village Clevalier Vosne Montagne 2000 the other night. Pale and perfumed. Dead sexy. Brilliant value to me, but most drinkers probably would have dismissed it as lacking grunt and ignored the enormous charm.

And charm is good!

Stan I agree, Charm is good!

in 02, I have tasted fairly extensively my rough thoughts are as follows:
Whites better than reds, though reds excellent. Top flight year, almost a roasted character to some red's.

Cotes du beaune - fantastic vintage for red's, Pommard, Volnay, and Savigny.
Marquis d'angerville. good, but a little too massive and backwards I thought.
laFarge - never less than great, imperious this year.
Jean Boillot - specifically maison henri and not Jean Marc, superb. Vintage suits his style of low cropping intense wines - Volnay Caillerets will be one of wines of vintage.

Whites, stunning Chablis vintage. even better than 2000.
Chassagne is perhaps the pick for me. Guy Amiot did very well.
Roulot - buy.
Carillon - powerful but a little disjointed. will be great if they knit.

Some other random picks:
P&M Rion - entire range is good. Chambolle 1er Charmes is dead sexy.
Hudelot Noellat - very, very good. think suchot & malconsorts. Didn't think there was a need for the grand cru's - the lesser wines were too good for the money.
Bize - Aux Vergelesses so ripe and full - great value.
Chevillon - Les Cailles is amazing. fragrant, powerful and well structured.
AF Gros - not as accessible as I would have thought. Oak starting to become more and more an issue at this domaine. Fruit quality still excellent, but value? I can't remember the name of the 1er cru beaune rouge - but that was great.
Vougeraie - Pascal marchand is a very clever man, but they are little too 'new world' for me at the moment.
Confuron Coteditot - Vougeot and Excellent. Really full, complex, wines with mass and definition. great terroir expression. for value - suchots.
Courcel - I loved the rugiens and the Clos epenots was so fragrant and perfumed, silky texture and aaah... Rugiens is a better wine, but the epenots was just that bit more seductive.
Montille - everything.
Maison J Drouhin - Le Musigny, and Clos de Mouche for me. Though the
Clos de chenes is very good value.
Fourrier - such a sweet fruit overlay on a fine structure. his wine making is what takes these higher. Goulots was good, and the Griottes his best yet
Bachelet - wonderful old vine fruit intensity and vigour. village wines spectacular value.

That's all the springs to mind, I might try and check my notes as well.

Also Mortet and Nicolas Potel didn't impress me much at all. The former lacks grace, the latter intensity.

Ps. if you see any Dauvissat La Forest - grab it.

Cheers
M