Defining what is and is not table wine
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 8:58 am
I am not all that surprised that yet another well exposed wino here in the US has jumped on the bandwagon against wines with alcohol above 14-14.5%. There have been quite a few over the last year or two – Darrell Corti of Corti Bros stated that his shop would no longer sell wines above 14.5% and Randy Dunn of Dunn Vineyards wrote a letter to the US media saying “The current fad of higher and higher alcohol wines should stop. Most wine drinkers do not really appreciate wines that are 15 -16. +% alcohol.†But an article by Lettie Teague in The Wall Street Journal adds some new and clearly ridiculous twists to the madness. Link to article here.
Now I confess that I am not a big fan of richly flavored Pinot Noir wines that don’t express their varietal character all that well. Some of them have alcohols above 14% and while I struggle to appreciate them as wines that I can identify by grape variety that does not mean that they are not tasty examples of the winemaker’s art. But it would be pure folly on my part to advocate that Pinot Noir with more than 14% alcohol not be made. It would also be very petty of me to state that such wines won’t find a place in my cellar. I’d be even more suspect if I was to use federal labeling laws, which dictate that 14% alcohol and below is table wine, to justify my position. But the real evidence of my foolishness would be for me to apply my 14% rule only as I saw fit – which is what guys like Corti and now Rajat Parr, wine director of the San Francisco-based Michael Mina restaurant group, do. These guys really do define what a wine snob truly is.
Mike
Now I confess that I am not a big fan of richly flavored Pinot Noir wines that don’t express their varietal character all that well. Some of them have alcohols above 14% and while I struggle to appreciate them as wines that I can identify by grape variety that does not mean that they are not tasty examples of the winemaker’s art. But it would be pure folly on my part to advocate that Pinot Noir with more than 14% alcohol not be made. It would also be very petty of me to state that such wines won’t find a place in my cellar. I’d be even more suspect if I was to use federal labeling laws, which dictate that 14% alcohol and below is table wine, to justify my position. But the real evidence of my foolishness would be for me to apply my 14% rule only as I saw fit – which is what guys like Corti and now Rajat Parr, wine director of the San Francisco-based Michael Mina restaurant group, do. These guys really do define what a wine snob truly is.
Mike