TN: Veritas (Rolf Binder) Heysen 1998
Posted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 9:42 am
Veritas (Rolf Binder) Heysen 1998
I've been trying to source this wine (at a semi-reasonable price) for a while now. The Heysen was a favourite of Parker in the early days he started to take Australian wine seriously ... while this by itself is no recommendation I have drunk the 1999, 2001, 2002 and 2004 Heysens and they have all been very good-excellent wines, and with a clearly defined Heysen style that at least initially stemmed from a single-vineyard origin. Also as it was an export-only label: it mainly went to the US, a little to the UK and likely almost none in Oz so it's hard to find the early vintages. I was lucky enough to pick up a six-pack this week and naturally wanted to try one, with some trepidation in cases I'd been sold a pup, or a dried out oak-alcohol-cough mix-fruit bomb ...
For me it is the structure and balance that impresses so much after a day. Now open after 24 hours (and it needs 4 in a decanter to even start sorting itself out) this is a hugely perfumed wine yet with massive fruit that brings home that old "velvet fist in an iron glove" expression. It does some big tickmarks for me ... tannin layer on the side of the bottle (check), reasonable alcohol (14% - check), trick of being a big wine yet refined (check). It smells sweet without being jammy, is dark red without being at all black in colour, has perfectly supporting and integrated oak without being overt. It simply takes a ton of blackberry and plums, crams them into a wine without extracting them at all, adds a great acid structure with un-massaged and yet fully ripe tannins, really great length, and lovely long linear palate which then expands backwards into your mouth after you have swallowed to give you a lovely savoury aftertaste. It is layered and expressive. Delicious. Drink now-2018.
In terms of it's peers from 1998 that I have drunk in the last few months, I'd rate this and Rockford pretty evenly, then Penfolds Magill, then Penfolds Henri. It's in the very top league - in this vintage is anyway.
Hope it's of interest - Jay
I've been trying to source this wine (at a semi-reasonable price) for a while now. The Heysen was a favourite of Parker in the early days he started to take Australian wine seriously ... while this by itself is no recommendation I have drunk the 1999, 2001, 2002 and 2004 Heysens and they have all been very good-excellent wines, and with a clearly defined Heysen style that at least initially stemmed from a single-vineyard origin. Also as it was an export-only label: it mainly went to the US, a little to the UK and likely almost none in Oz so it's hard to find the early vintages. I was lucky enough to pick up a six-pack this week and naturally wanted to try one, with some trepidation in cases I'd been sold a pup, or a dried out oak-alcohol-cough mix-fruit bomb ...
For me it is the structure and balance that impresses so much after a day. Now open after 24 hours (and it needs 4 in a decanter to even start sorting itself out) this is a hugely perfumed wine yet with massive fruit that brings home that old "velvet fist in an iron glove" expression. It does some big tickmarks for me ... tannin layer on the side of the bottle (check), reasonable alcohol (14% - check), trick of being a big wine yet refined (check). It smells sweet without being jammy, is dark red without being at all black in colour, has perfectly supporting and integrated oak without being overt. It simply takes a ton of blackberry and plums, crams them into a wine without extracting them at all, adds a great acid structure with un-massaged and yet fully ripe tannins, really great length, and lovely long linear palate which then expands backwards into your mouth after you have swallowed to give you a lovely savoury aftertaste. It is layered and expressive. Delicious. Drink now-2018.
In terms of it's peers from 1998 that I have drunk in the last few months, I'd rate this and Rockford pretty evenly, then Penfolds Magill, then Penfolds Henri. It's in the very top league - in this vintage is anyway.
Hope it's of interest - Jay