The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread

[Ian S]

Jamie
Worth dropping John Morris a line to get in touch with Klapp. I'm told he's very much more affable in person, and from what people have written, he would be very much up for a meal and a selection of fine wines. They say he spends more time in Burgundy than Piemonte these days, but I'm sure would be up for opening some fine bottles over a meal in either area.
Regards
Ian

[JamieBahrain]

He wasn't the only ex-lawyer on that forum, and a number of them brought their day job attitudes to the forum

Fair enough. Because that's what I see in this 2008 rant. More confrontation than depth.

I'm thinking if you love Piedmont, get used to change! It's getting warm in some of those traditionally great sites. There will be new directions and you'll need to find beauty in some not so typical vintages. I don't think 2008 is one of these new age vintages of excess warmth though.

Interestingly, I'm short on 2008 Barbaresco. 18 bottles from 6 producers- including a six bottle purchase this week of Cascina Delle Rose.

Though I've tended to go long on 2008 Barolo- 120 bottles from 17 producers including a big whack of Monprivato in magnums and a 12 bottle case. I must have bought twice so will probably unload them.

[Ian S]

2008 definitely not that, though many make the case that 2009 is.

That said, often there is a broad range of styles achieved in a vintage - e.g. Marcarini definitely avoided the excesses of 2003, but that must have a lot to do with their target style - no 'long hang time' or short maceration to soften tannins and acidity there. A 'foursquare' aim is better placed to handle hotter vintages, whereas in a cold vintage, other producers will shine better.

Plus in even the hottest vintages, there can be positives in the more marginal areas. There might be wines I'd avoid in Northern Piemonte in cooler / wetter vintages, that really excel when everyone down south is battling sweltering weather.

On top of the weather, I remain convinced that a large number of producers are looking to tame the tannic austerity, leading to a dual effect on the wines.

If you can find a tax efficient way to get those wines into Australia, then selling them would make for ridiculous profits.

[JamieBahrain]

Yes I agree on 2008 in your comments. I actually welcome the vintage peculiarities that Bill seems to slam. Namely a little less body and some early approachability. I just can't write 2008 off for the longer term either.

Interesting your comments on the broad range of styles in difficult vintages. Some snippets coming out on 2014. Elio Grasso has blended everything into a bog standard Barolo- not too shabby on first reports.

Re excess Monprivato. Would have to be a private offer in Oz. Perfectly cellared and nursed to Australia as airline staff would come at a premium. Our secondary market rubbish otherwise. I'd make double the money carrying them back overseas to HKG.

[Ian S]

Not too surprised on 2014, as a lot of people have talked it down. I doubt it's as difficult as 2002 was, which was the last vintage I recall many producers doing wholesale declassification. FWIW I rather enjoyed the (very) few 2002s I tried. I've not tasted the Monfortino, which perversely is considered by many to be one of the best Monfortinos of recent times. I recall being pretty shocked the first time I read that, but I guess it shows the danger of simplistic vintage charts.

I'm confident that in general the 2008s will cellar well - certainly better than 2007s & 2009s, but would always stress that 'in general'. Different producers deliver different results

[winetastic]

I'm confident that in general the 2008s will cellar well - certainly better than 2007s & 2009s, but would always stress that 'in general'. Different producers deliver different results

Not sure I appreciate nuance when it comes to discussing vintages Ian, everything should be black and white

[JamieBahrain]

Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo 2013- I bought a box of 12 with reservation. I mean what can you expect from a $25 Aussie Barolo? Wow! This is why the region is so exciting. The upswing potential is far greater than any other region as you have emerging, passionate and skilled producers who have a confidence in the international fascination and demand for their wines.

I have quaffed about 4 of these. Been meaning to write quick impression. What I love about nebbiolo is I open on a Sunday and revisit the bottle for a glass or two numerous times over a week. I caught this wine in an amazing sweet spot spot a few times- where it delivers a remarkably restrained, near mellow Barolo, that dances like great pinot- though is framed with a boldness in delivery.

From a vineyard in Terlo ( Ravera/ via Nuova area ) which the MGA lists as being unremarkable. So is it the 2013 vintage at play here?

Starts with raw, wild aromatics, cranberry and berries, chalkiness and pungent minerality. Needs a few days to settle where the palate delivers dark fruits, blue flowers, gentle tar and of good volume and spread. Spicy, grainy oak paired tannins deliver a long finish.

What a punt! Can't go wrong. So impressed I bought a case of their 2015 nebbiolo from the spectacular Roero vineyard of Valmaggiore ( well worth a drive if in the area ) and I'm hoping stocks of their Cru wines last a month or two when I can repair my wine budget!

92pts+



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[JamieBahrain]

Barolo MGA Volume 2 coming out mid-May.

The new book on Barolo and its MGAs is a gold mine, packed with a ton of rarities, unseen material and subjects never treated before:
the production zone and the evolution of its confines from the first decades of the 20th century to the DOCG appellation
the map of the vineyards as they were in 1970
the last 18 vintages described in detail with their temperatures, rainfalls, and harvest periods
130 MGA crus mapped and catalogued on the basis of their harvest periods
the harvest dates records of some of the most prestigious cellars
the winegrowers in Vignarionda from early 20th century to 2018
the integral text of the essay of Ferdinando Vignolo-Lutati on the delimitation of typical wine zones (1929)

[tarija]

Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo 2013- I bought a box of 12 with reservation. I mean what can you expect from a $25 Aussie Barolo? Wow! This is why the region is so exciting.

Did you buy that ex-cellar?

Because that is not AUD 25 at standard retail...it is AUD 50 retail in the US...and so probably $90-100 in Australia. (A bit less exciting )

[JamieBahrain]

Yes, that's standard retail from UK merchants by the case, in-bond early or pre-relase. Suckling rated the wine highly so perhaps that explains the recent inflation ? Shipping through this merchant $2.5 AUD per bottle. So $27.50 AUD.


Sorry, something I try and avoid on the threads but it really needed to be stated as my point of reference toward the excitement of the region.

[tarija]

That's amazing Jamie, we can barely buy lower level Nebbiolo like Fontanafredda Langhe at that price in Aust. Very jealous!

$2.50/bottle postage (presumably to HK?) is incredible too.

[JamieBahrain]

20 quid is standard door to door delivery. Sometimes, when shopping around, air freight is double and a bit. Sometimes with pricing, I'll use a UK/European merchant at the expensive air freight rate due the actual wine being so much cheaper. Example, this year I moved away from my tradional suppler of G Mascarello as a 12 bottle ( Monprivato and Villero 2013 ) order was 140 £ cheaper. So I was in front by £120.

[Ian S]

I'm confident that in general the 2008s will cellar well - certainly better than 2007s & 2009s, but would always stress that 'in general'. Different producers deliver different results

Not sure I appreciate nuance when it comes to discussing vintages Ian, everything should be black and white

and crystallised in a single number between 90 and 100*...

[Ian S]

Good to see you sniffing out a bargain Jamie, and such bargains do exist, generally from producers who never seem to get reviewed by the critics. I've long had the impression that most of them merely taste the same 'names' as each other. If other critics don't review it, then its clearly not even worth a taste.

Getting to the region is a great way to explore, but even better is getting to one of the tasting events there e.g. Barberesco a tavola, Festa del Barbaresco etc. the former being ~ 20 wines with food, the latter a cosy walkround tasting but ~ 150-200 wines when we last went.

[JamieBahrain]

Getting to the region is a great way to explore, but even better is getting to one of the tasting events there e.g. Barberesco a tavola, Festa del Barbaresco etc. the former being ~ 20 wines with food, the latter a cosy walkround tasting but ~ 150-200 wines when we last went.

Generally twice a year. I'm back in July after a month in Europe elsewhere. I'm not good at those big tasting of young wines. Prefer just to settle with a few glasses.


On 2008. This just popped up from Eric Guido whom a few may know from social media posts and forum notes. A 2008 perspective. He echoes what Bill says.

Perhaps my own persuasions on 2008 seem to be that I'm trying and backfilling the wines showing exceptionally- 2008 Vajra BdV for example. I will continue to buy 2008 for enjoyment now. If 2008 E Grasso pops-up I will complete my cellared 2008's with those exceptional pair!


http://morrellwinebar.com/cool-toned-racy-to-the-core/

I try the first 08 I find in the wine fridge last night:



Parusso Mariondino Barolo 2008- I've reported on this before. Day one it was a overdone modernist and day two I termed it a shipwreck whereby it was all woody structural bones only.

Really, little impresssed still. Dark, tarry and sweet- very modern, liqueur textrue with oak always in prominence.

87pts



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[sjw_11]

Getting to the region is a great way to explore, but even better is getting to one of the tasting events there e.g. Barberesco a tavola, Festa del Barbaresco etc. the former being ~ 20 wines with food, the latter a cosy walkround tasting but ~ 150-200 wines when we last went.

Hey Ian, do you have some more details or web links for these? Sound very interesting, particularly the latter.

[Ian S]

No probs
Here's the first 'A tavola', which is coming up soon. http://www.enotecadelbarbaresco.it/index.ph ... =6&lang=en
The event takes place in various restaurants from the traditional / rustic to elegant / fancy. The one we went to was in Trattoria del Risorgimento in Treiso and was a convivial evening, albeit it was effectively a wine pages overseas offline as Birger Vejrum had organised a tour, and as we were there at a similar time, we were able to hook up with them for the meal and a tasting at Fratelli Grasso, a modest and friendly family Treiso producer selling magnums for so little I felt guilty.

It looks like the Festa Del Barbaresco is now called piacere Barbaresco and there is more to it these days, but also with the walkround tasting (€20) http://langhe.net/event/piacere-barbaresco/ They didn't used to do the food / wine matching event for instance. There was a decent outdoor market as well, something I would have been all over had we been in an apartment (which we tend to go for these days)

Plenty of other events and a websearch for festa + place you're staying, plus checking the local tourist site (langheroero.it is a very useful site) gets you all manner of interesting stuff to go to, sometimes providing a shock to the locals who don't expect to see 'stranieri' there.

[JamieBahrain]

HKWS A Walk Through The Terroir of Barbaresco - Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Horizontal 2008

Location: Restaurant Whisk, 5/F, The Mira Hong Kong, Nathan Road, TST

Tasting Wines

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello Riserva

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Pora Riserva

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Rio Sordo Riserva

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Paje Riserva

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Asili Riserva

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Muncagotta Riserva

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Montefico Riserva

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Montstefano Riserva

2008 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga ( the lost Cru )

_________


The Produttori del Barbaresco is unlike any other co-operative, in that it controls some of the great vineyard sites of its appellation. The history is fascinating and well documented. For the sake of brevity and perspective, I will draw on interviews with Aldo Vacca, the Managing Director of the PdB. Aldo’s father was the original Managing Director of the relaunched Produttori in the 50’s, with both his grandparents being vineyard holders.

With the help of Aldo, tonight, we will walk through the terroirs of Barbaresco via the PdB’s single vineyard riservas. For clarification, Barbaresco DOCG is divided into the townships of Barbaresco , Neive, Treiso and little known San Rocco Seno d’ Elvio. The PdB’s single vineyard holdings are in the Barbaresco township area.

My interpretation of the PdB’s philosophy is their Barbaresco normale, is for all intents and purposes their flagship wine. In exceptional vintages, riservas are released. However, even if in exceptional vintages, serious localised vineyard issues in just one single vineyard, will see all the fruit put into the normale and no riservas released- all reserves must be at a a high enough quality to be released. Or if vintage conditions require reserve vineyard fruit to hold up the standard of the normale, no riservas are released either! This drives a remarkable consistency and although PdB has always been recognized as quality and value, I fear we have turned a corner with Galloni’s ratings of 2013, which has seen significant price inflation via the UK merchants into Hong Kong. Strangely, prices are unchanged in Italy and the USA!

The slopes/ridgelines around the Barbaresco township, for our single vineyard tour tonight, can simplistically be divided into two. One side producing more elegant, less tanninic expressions of Barbaresco ( west ) and the other producing, darker and more powerful wines wines of robust tannic structure ( north /south ) . In the middle they meet at Rabaja- a famous vineyard site where soils and sites mesh producing the “perfect” Barbaresco.


Western Slope from Barbaresco township:

RIO SORDO- Warmer Cru known for its approachability. Less clay, more limestone and sandy veins producing sexy textured Barbaresco with silken tannins.

MARTINENGA- Sits across from Rio Sordo, below Rabaja and neighbouring Asili. The first riservas the PdB produced were in 1967 ( as did Gaja with his three Barbaresco single vineyard bottlings ). As the lost Cru of the PdB I’ve included the wine tonight from Marchesi di Gresy. Originally, the PdB released five single vineyard wines in 1967- Martinenga, Port, Rabaja, Muncagotta, Paje and Pora. Today, Martinenga is the only Monopole in Piedmont. Always worth a visit, Jeffrey Chilcott is a good friend of the HKWS. Although the wines are known for their elegance, they are further subdivided into Gaiun and Camp Gros bottlings- with complex relationships to Rabaja and Asili.

ASILI-Needs little introduction as an undisputed Grand Cru. I hope many of you made Alan’s excellent tasting last year that showcased every maker of Asili. Stylish, complex, elegant- unforgettable aromatics. The punchbowl topography protects Asili from maritime influences such as humidity, off the Tanaro river below.

PORA- The Tanaro river influences this site with humidity and fertile loams. Drink young or will age well. Intensely dark fruited with herbal notes, approachable soft tannins due high sand and calcium soils.

Township Area:

PAJE- Sits in the township- near Sori San Lorenzo incidentally, though a wheat field not long ago, whilst Paja been producing wine for hundreds of years. Also adjacent Pora, Paje producers many great wines such as Roagna’s Crichet Paje. Cooler site- bright acidity and red fruits, wines of superior definition and depth.

RABAJA- Where the slopes meet. Sunny all-day aspect. Imposing wines that shout Barbaresco. Elegant yet powerful tannins- more so than Martinenga below and Asili adjacent.

North to south slope from Barbaresco town:

MUNCAGOTTA- Formerly Moccagatta but due confusion with a winery of the same name established in the 70’s. Changed back to a Piedmontese dialect. Lot’s of morning sun, high calcium soils producing austere finer grained tannins. Red fruits, sometimes blue. Minty in cooler vintages- though not so much of late. Lovely florals and still and emphasis on powerful tannins.

OVELLO- Largest MGA of the entire appellation. 12 farmers in the co-op here. Cool microclimate due elevation and wind exposure. High soil concentration of clay produces big tannins. Clay- rusty tannins, aggressive in youth whereas the calcium rich soils of the west, in contrast, produce elegant, austere finer grained tannin.

MONTEFICO- A hidden gem. Very popular site amongst locals. Compact calcium produces extraordinary minerality in aromatics and infused on the finish.

Massive wines yet elegant- more so than the upcoming Montestefano due cooler microclimate.

MONTESTEFANO-The Barolo of Barbaresco ! Morning and afternoon sun. Smoky palate, meaty and dark cherry like. Less red fruit. Massive tannins.


Dinner Wines

Tenuta Selvadolce VB 1 Vermentino 2012, Liguria

Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja 1985 en magnum

Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Normale 2008

Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2012

Cappellano Chinato NV


Dinner Menu

UMAMI
Kegani Crab, Sea Urchin, Caviar, Scallop, Seasonal Vegetables & Dashi Jelly
日本毛蟹 海膽 法國魚子醬 時令野菜及魚湯啫喱
***
FOREST
Duck, Burdock Root, Matsu Kinoko
鴨 牛蒡 松の子
***
JAPANESE A4 WAGYU BEEF KAGOSHIMA
Spring Vegetables
日本鹿兒島A4 和牛
***
MELTING CAMEMBERT POT
焗法國金文畢芝士 配薰衣草蜂蜜多士
***
COFFEE OR TEA

[JamieBahrain]

Last night, I drew the corks on all wines to benefit a long slow-ox. I will pour the wines an hour before tasting commencement, nevously anticpating the beginning of a drinking window for 2008 PdB riservas. There's a chance I could be a few years early! Normally, riservas hit their straps at 10. Aldo Vacca has mentioned the 2008's need longer !

I've decided on the below order. With the lighter Martinenga ( as it isn't Gauin or Camp Gros ) sitting before it's neighbour, Asili.



Pora
Pajè
Rio Sordo
Asili
Ovello
Montefico
Muncagota
Rabajà
Montestefano

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Quite the job. All wines seem OK. Touch wood !


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Serious!



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My favorite Cru of PdB

[JamieBahrain]

Last night was a convincing success. All wines clearly displayed their vineyard's terroir. I feel the tasting would have been better in 2 to 5 years; when the maturation window clearly open.

All tasters were given a large glass of the Normale, to come to and fro to over the tasting and dinner, to be familiar with the house style.



2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Normale- Welcoming aromatics - gentle cedar notes, hay and dark fruits blossom toward a warm mesh of tar and dark roses, red fruits tea and specks of leather. Complete in it's medium weighted delivery, harmonious and balance- a gentle warmth of the finish aids flavor persistence with sweet black tea and red petals.

Without silly expectations, one of the great bargains of the wine world though most is drunk too early.

93pts



2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Pora Riserva- This site is closest to the Tanaro River and has a strong maritime influence and sedimentary fertile soils. Open for business! Cherries, tea, florals and red fruits. Good concentration and palate weight, not as developed nor as complex as the aromatics, the wine shows good balance and the tannin structure is gently firm and with a stoniness.

92pts+


0 x first, Seconds, Four lasts

9th for Me 10th for the Group.



2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Pajé Riserva- I expected a lot from the wine. The site is in the village sitting adjacent to Sori San Lorenzo. A beautiful vineyard. I've walked up and down in a number of times, once with Luca from Roagna.

Starts tight. Florals, strawberry and cherry red fruits in a mesh with darker fruit. Tea and truffle notes emerging. Palate is bracketed with blood orange like citrissy. Medium weight, supple and you look for a little more, I mean it is Paje. Tannins rise gently but with a firmness that may outlive the fruit. It was a solid performance but not anywhere beyond that.

My least favorite wine of the night but it was still good wine!

91pts


0 x Firsts, 0 x Seconds, 3 Lasts

10th for Me 9th for the Group


2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Rio Sordo Riserva- I love Rio Sordo. Wine and the area. You can walk the road down the slope of Rio Sordo with Martinenga and Asili on our right, weaving its way back up to the village of Barbaresco.

Lifted with a Barbaresco tang- sort of a balasmic, spicy red and black fruit mix. Some mint and pine forest influence. Sexy, supple and silky palate. The 2008 vintage delivers a Rio Sordo of exceptional class.

93pts+

1 First 0 Second 1 Last

5th for Me 7th for the Group.

2008 Marchesi Di Gresy Martinenga Barbaresco- The Lost Cru and my ring-in. Of the four original riservas released in 1967, this was one of them.

Now this is perfectly mature Barbaresco. Structurally resolved and showing an immediacy and prettiness. It's cliche yep, but bursting with Burgundian delight. Red and black cherries, a positive sticky ripe sweetness, pot pourri best describes complex florals, grasses and herbs, menthol/medicinal, leather and more petals. Wild flavour profile of red and black fruits, brown sugar sweetness, acidity keeps the wine fresh and elegant.

96pts

2 First 5 Seconds 0 Lasts

WOTN for Me and 2nd for the Group


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2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Aili Riserva- Beautiful aromatis take a while to pry open. Classic Barbaresco red and black, licorice, goudron, underbrush of sorts which freshens toward fennel and in-season truffle. Warm and inviting palate, dark, unevolved yet elegant. Long perfectly ripend tannins. Just a pup! Better and better as the night progressed.

93pts+ ( 95pts + by night's end with dramatic evolution )

2 First 2 Seconds 1 Last

7th for Me 6th for Group

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello Riserva- Shy, dark coal like in its lack of evolution, freshening mint echoes a vintage elegance. Cherries and darker fruit emerge. Medium bodied of course, with an elegance and class. Tannins are not typically Ovello aggressive ( high clay soils ) and show a comfortable firmness.

94pts +

0 Firsts 1 Second 2 Lasts

3rd for Me 8th for the Group.


2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Montefico Riserva- Oh so tight. Powerful sharp minerality in the aromatics, blackfruits and more minerals and spices. Unyielding, a powerhouse, medium bodied bursting out of its seams. Dense, no signs of unpeeling- powerful, cool, youthful austerity.

93pts+

1 First 0 Seconds and Lasts



6th for Me 4th for Group


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2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Muncagotta Riserva- unevolved, earthy dark fruits leaving an overall impression of balance. Sweet textured dark fruits, nothing much happening yet, grippy tannins of the marly calacreous soils.

92pts+

1 First only

8th for Me 5th for the Group

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva- Where the two terroirs of meet to produce the ultimate Babraresco. Earth, tar, melted licorice. Primed for time ! Just sits beautifully in balance - all is waiting to uncoil! Overall impression is of a powerful drive.

94pts+


5 First 3 Seconds

WOTN Group 4rth for Me


2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva- The Barolo of Barbaresco! Many didn't get this wine. I suspect because of its powerful austerity and lack of flesh and the distinct smokey, meaty minerality which some faulted ! It's young and powerful and typical Montestefano ! Needs a decade ! Classic. Will build lean flesh on its long length and deliver a uniform core of powerful, complex minerally fruit.

95pts+

3 first. 2 Seconds 5 Lasts

2nd for ME 3rd for Group despite 5 x Lasts

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1985 Produttori del Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva en magnum- Wonderful! There's a story to this vintage. It was the last for a winemaker who only lasted two! Tried toning down the old fashioned style of Barbaresco.

Very popular last night! A wine that delivers a tertiary experience still with a clarity of vineyard site.



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Finished with the 2012 PdB nebbiolo which is red skins, menthol and tar on good length and bright acidity. Declassified Barbresco! Actually, it could be released as Barbaresco but another PdB bargain, it preserves the Langhe nebbiolo label.

Cappellano Chinato too.

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[Ozzie W]

Thanks for the write-up Jamie. I've got a bottle each of the Ovello and Montefico.

What happened with the corks that broke in half? I wouldn't expect them to break at this age.

[JamieBahrain]

G'day Ozzie

Both your riservas there are long termers and I'd suggest they would be best in another 5 to 10. Slow-ox really helps too if tempted early- Ovello is a beast and funny enough I've had a Albino Rocca Ovello 2014 open for a few days and it ain't tamed at all! My view of this technique is it stops the palate shutting down - becoming hard and austere- whilst encouraging the aromatics. Conventional decanting tends to bring out aromatics extensively though often leaving a stuctural shell on the palate as the wine shuts down. Plenty of folks still use the conventional decanter happily. So who knows?

The corks bone dry! Wines sourced from Fine & Rare.

[Ozzie W]

Slow-ox really helps too if tempted early- Ovello is a beast and funny enough I've had a Albino Rocca Ovello 2014 open for a few days and it ain't tamed at all! My view of this technique is it stops the palate shutting down - becoming hard and austere- whilst encouraging the aromatics. Conventional decanting tends to bring out aromatics extensively though often leaving a stuctural shell on the palate as the wine shuts down. Plenty of folks still use the conventional decanter happily. So who knows?

I haven't tried this method on young Barolo before. I've always just decanted it. I will try slow-ox next time.

[Ian S]

Always interesting to read of PdB horizontal tastings.

[JamieBahrain]

2008 Germano Ettore Barolo Prapò 1999-A little confused where it sits in the modernist/traditionalist camp. Winebeserkers labelling it traditonalist? The color and some unobtrusive oak notes indicate to me somewhere in the middle? Color can be late picking too I understand- which makes sense with the curranty, dried fruit notes.

I've happily reported on the wine before. It reminds me of Sandrone's Le Vigne. Dark carob/chocolate, dried fruits and currants. Fresher cherry/ mineral notes at the core. Comfortable wine, dark flavors on the palate with gentle, alluvious tannins.

93pts



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[Ian S]

Modernist/traditionalist certainly evolved from the early extremes, and what borders there are have been crossed by many producers. Perhaps Germano is one that has a different approach now to in 1999/2000?

[michel]

Slow-ox really helps too if tempted early- Ovello is a beast and funny enough I've had a Albino Rocca Ovello 2014 open for a few days and it ain't tamed at all! My view of this technique is it stops the palate shutting down - becoming hard and austere- whilst encouraging the aromatics. Conventional decanting tends to bring out aromatics extensively though often leaving a stuctural shell on the palate as the wine shuts down. Plenty of folks still use the conventional decanter happily. So who knows?

I haven't tried this method on young Barolo before. I've always just decanted it. I will try slow-ox next time.

I rarely if ever decant barolo
time is the key
sometimes days for me

[Ian S]

2003 Collis Breclemae Ghemme from Antichi vigneti di Cantalupo last night with pheasant, fennel and trumpet mushroom risotto. Complex nose, with red fruit, aniseed, fig, oak and mint (the aniseed an unanticipated match to the subtle fennel in the risotto).

A little less complexity on the palate, but good balance, although the structure of tannin and acidity does rather 'tighten' the finish. Ideally leave for another 5-10+ years and it should open out.

2003 vintage may be much maligned in Europe, and I'm one of those always voicing concerns, but there did seem to be a theme, that some areas that normally struggle for ripeness, got an unexpected heat boost, but not as severe as in other parts of the continent. If I would have seen more Ghemme, Gattinara, Donnas, Fara, Boca etc. from this vintage, I would have bought them with confidence. I wish I had more.

[JamieBahrain]

A good friend of mine now has the agency for Albino Rocca in HKG so I had a look at three of the Cru's from 2014 over a week.





2014 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Ronchi- Throughout the week, beguiling florals, loaded with minerals and complex herbs, as expected Barbaresco red fruited tones and menthol. Fruit wraps itself around a lean, austere hollow, of excellent length. By day six development shows pleasant leather and cherry-mineral fruit, I feel the wine will flesh out well in the medium term to long term but perhaps not the gusto to survive the preserving structure to be rated as the greatest of vintages. Happy to put this wine away though.

93pts+


Albino Rocca Barbaresco Montersino 2014- This is a newbee from the edges of Alba and on this experience I won't be shy of San Rocco Seno d'Elvio ( the fourth commune of Barbaresco though I believe this has changed ).

More full and round than Ronchi; showing wild dark berries, leather and licorice all-sorts aromatically, which is fascinating over the week’s showing.The wine is ripe and full on the structural edges, savoury oak with blue/ black fruited flavour profile in a Nebbiolo sense. Broadens on the finish with spices and a rise of ripe, wood supported tannin.

92pts+


Albino Rocca 2014 Barbaresco Ovello Vigna Loreto 2014- From a sub-region of Vigna Loreto within Ovello. As expected, took a wrenching to open up- stone faced until day four ! Typically Ovello with intense choc-minted dark fruits, clay,wood spice and I enjoyed an unexpected red fruited lift. Full bodied and dense, consistently chalky/calcareous at the edges- meaty fruit persistence in clay-earth tannins.

Quite something!

94pts +





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[winetastic]

Cascina Roccalini Langhe Nebbiolo 2016
This is a hard wine to pin down, loads going on with the nose - crushed fresh berries, bitter herbs, sappy pine and an alcohol lift. In the mouth is powerful, rich and juicy. Perhaps too powerful for my tastes. The bottle says 15% alcohol, it carries it well and would probably be a great gateway drug for anyone who has found Nebbiolo a tad lean for their preferences.

So for me, quality very high, style misses the mark a bit, but not in the sense of it being too clinical or ruined by oak.

A producer I will keep my eye on, however not if the listed alcohol % is so high.