The Auswine Forum

I have got to add to the above, there seems to be plenty of misconceptions about Sandrone being a modernist and many folks dismiss them as they would Altare or Voerzio.

I'm surprised by this and I wonder if they've had aged Sandrone? Yes, I'm sure there's been up and down vintages and Barbara Sandrone mentioned they were so upset with the condition of their wines in secondary trade that they started a cellar release program. But I've had aged Sandrone that is utterly stunning and worlds apart from say Altare ; mid-life anyways as with very Barolo the modernist/ traditonal paths seem to converge.

Concensus (as could be determined in a frequently changing approach) on Pat Burton's excellent Wine Berserker thread, is that Sandrone currently sits away from the extremes: 500L French oak tonneaux, 25% new (no idea of toast levels), 10-14 days maceration. i.e. not a traditionalist approach, but also some distance from a Fratelli Revello or Alio Altare or Roverto Voerzio in the out & out modernist camp.

They certainly were a bit of a darling of the wine investment scene over here a decade ago. Likely to have been bracketed with other modernists that were popular in that scene at the time, though back then their techniques may well have leaned more in that direction than they do now. These days it's the firm traditionalists that seem to hold more interest in the secondary market.

Thanks Ian.

I just find it so interesting that some folks judge wines so close to release and still live in the obsolete modernist/ traditionalist paradigm. I hosted what I'd deem a adolescent look at Barolo and Barbaresco odds and ends last and I gave up asking the outmoded question what tasters believed the expression was, modern or traditional. Even after 15 years, some oak integration was near stealthy.

Vineyard aspect and global warming will make for an interesting next few decades. That said, we knocked off 5 bottles of 2009 Cappellano Rupestris last night and what a joyful wine from a warm vintage.

Barolo, Barbaresco and Barbera from HKWS Stock

Location: Whisk At The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd TST
Date: 28th July (Friday)
Time: 7pm
Price: 1350 HKD (1450 HKD non-members)


To ensure everyone has a wine list, please try to print off your own copy prior to the tasting.

Dear Jamie,

I’m delighted to be able to compose an eclectic tasting from the last odds and ends of HKWS Piedmont stock that should present a few spectacular cameos and a number of intriguing challenges. For instance, the top wines of Castiglione Falletto, G Mascarello’s Monprivato and Cavallotto’s Bricco Boschis Riserva San Giuseppe from the 2001 are presented. From La Morra we have a mature Gaja Barolo wine Gromis and Voerzio’s La Serra. La Spinetta is in the mix with it’s single vineyard Barbaresco expression Gallina. Braida’s spectacular Barbara Ai Suma from 1997, tasted blind, could be expected to outperform many Nebbiolos on the night and provides an odd man out in the tasting line up. We get to look at mature Barolo from Elvio Cogno, Gianni Gagliardo and Rivetto, who are now well known with the fashion of Piedmont though their museum wines are difficult to source.

Dinner wine line-up includes the Piedmont white variety Timorasso from Mariotto, a look at warm vintage Barbaresco from Cascina Delle Rose and Cappellano’s spectacular Barolo Pie Rupestris. Our meal completes with Italian cheeses, matched with your choice of Grappa, Barolo Chinato and a few Barberas in our stock that desperately need opening!

Though a little unstructured in theme, due the odds and ends nature of our stock, I’m confident this dinner will present some amazing wines entering or in their maturation window. The value is extraordinary and with a few extra bottles and the start of a weekend, it should be a lot of fun.

Tasting Wines:

- G Mascarello Monprivato Barolo 2001
- Cavalletto Bricco Boschis San Giuseppe Barolo Riserva 2001
- Braida Ai Suma Barbera 1997
- Prunotto Barbaresco 2005
- Gaja Gromis Barolo 1999
- La Spinetta Vignetto Gallina 2001
- Voerzio La Serra Barolo 2001
- Gianni Gagliardo Barolo 2001
- Braida Ai Suma Barbera 1990 ( Donated )
- Rivetto Leon Riserva Barolo 1998
- Cascina Adelaide Per Ellen Riserva Barolo 2000
- Ciabot Berton Roggeri Barolo 2001

Dinner:

CHAR-GRILLED HOKKAIDO SCALLOP
Light Ginger Broth
炭烤北海道珍寶扇貝
Claudio Mariotto ' Pitasso Timorasso’ 2012
***
MAINE LOBSTER
Braised Daikon, Amaebi Shrimp, Lobster Jus
龍蝦 燴蘿蔔、甜蝦及龍蝦汁
Barbaresco, Olek Bondonio 2011 ( Donated )
***
MUSCOVADO ROASTED FRENCH PIGEON
Black Garlic, Truffle Broth
香煎法國乳鴿 黑蒜 夏季松露
Barolo Otin Fiorin, Piè Rupestris Cappellano 2009
Barolo, Silvio Grasss “ Ciabot Manzoni “ 2004 en magnum
***
SELECTION OF ITALIAN CHEESE
Paprika, Apple, Celery
精選芝士
Barolo Chinato, Cappellano NV
Grappa di Barbera d'Asti, Hastae Quorom 2000

This was a fun and relaxed tasting event using up our odds and ends Piedmont wines. I put two Barberas in the mix and awarded a prize to whoever picked them blind and their vintage.

Wines were slow-oxed over 36 hours, the magnum decanted for two hours further.


Gaja Gromis Barolo 1999- This was great to see. This wine is now Dagromis and a multi-vineyard blend with the best fruit of the original Cereqio vineyard going into Conteisa.

Holding up well. The elegance of La Morra with some latent power. Lovely red fruits showing developed complexity in various shades a little background smoke and cedar wood. The palate is delicate yet forceful along its considerable length- a wine of excellent persistence though tannins starting to dry.

Less well regarded by the crowd, though I mentioned it would be better received if a bottle shared in voluminous pours that would deliver more freshness.

93pts


Giuseppe Mascarello e Figlio Monprivato, Barolo 2001- This wine was poorly received though I explained it was a staple of mine and having had Monprivato even from the earlier Brovia bottlings it was totally representative of the wine and vineyard site.

This is a beautiful wine ! Finesse in a word, it's tar and roses in an expressive austerity. One the palate its long length as if magical, appears in full immediately with faint liquorice, tar and red fruits, a touch of leather starting a long run of fine, grinding tannins.

95pts+

Cavallotto Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe, Barolo Riserva 2001- Of all the wines, I felt this needed a traditional aeration win a decanter. I double decanted the wine at lunch to prepare it for its travels to Kowloon and pinched a small glass to have with my lunch omelette. All agreed the wine was excellent though tight, even shutting down somewhat. I pointed out I felt this wine still under the radar with 2010 prices modest considering the amazing vineyard site, Cavallotto's monopole of Bricco Boschis and its best aspects in the amphitheatre delivering San Giuseppe reserve.

Razor fine balance throughout in its long and elegant expression. Fruit notes are a mesh of red and black halfway to each side of the spectrum in a tobacco smoke like dustiness. Plenty of spice and herbal complexity, delivering complex Piedmont aromatics of autumn and spring. It's expressive though gently retreats; a more apt description than shutting down. Palate has a good layered flavour profile which has an evolved gentle sweet core not uncommon for this wine. Elegant long finish with powder fine tannins.

94pts+











Cascina Adelaide Per Ellen Riserva Barolo 2000- Their cellar door is right below the castle inn Barolo. Never noticed in dozens of visits !

Here's a complex wine, ion a little worked over with oak. Dominating are hazelnuts, red fruits fine mint and truffles. It's blocky on the palate with nuttela and smoke, layered and sappy fruit and the fish tapers gently. Enjoyed the wine of which some of the fruit is Cannubi.

93pts



Braida Ai Sum Barbera 1997- Big barbera fruit pretty obvious to me, dark and tarry, perhaps some plum and a brad and hay note too. A faint maderised hint on the nose and palate that's not off-putting just noticeable. Well structured wine, crafted and more evolved goudron notes in time.

Should have showed better IMO !

90pts



La Spinetta Gallina Barbaresco 2001- The som' told me a 3pm the wine wasn't right. I tried it and said it's fine and to the style. With time in the glass the wine blossomed and masked its oak. Beautiful herbal aromatics like an Alpine breeze blowing over grassy knoll in a Piedmont spring . Fresh and lively, just got better and better. Milk chocolate on the palate and some broad woody tannins would upset the purists- but again, in good volume, a very nice wine !

Neive vineyard 60 yo vines.

93pts





Gianni Gagliardo Barolo 2001- My wine group was hosted here and we had pizza with the owner and there son so I'm familiar with what they've been doing. This would have been released before a lot of their vineyards had been targeted for single bottling, So despite being a La Morra based winery, it probably has fruit from 4 communes including La More, Serralunga, Monforte and Barolo proper.

Dark and tarry, fruit is definitely near the black spectrum. Well structured wine and not fuss at all. Easy going, no pretences and an enjoyable blend.

91pts

Gianni Voerzio La Serra Barolo 2001- Modernist producer and brother of Roberto.

Aromatically piercing, dark fruits , fine chocolate and hay bale. Very solid and complete and not to everyone's liking due the style, but I found it enjoyable.

93pts


Rivetto Leon Riserva Barolo 1998- I had a feeling being the 98 vintage which is seeing a little smart money of late and with Serralunga fruit this would be well received and it was.

Ripe, well weighted and full. Complex herbs and pine with a Bugundian complex when infused with red and black fruits. Classical on the palate, very well balanced and a layered of even dark fruit on a long run of minerals acidity.

94pts



Braida Ai Suma Barbera 1990- Ragged bottle unfortunately, from a famous yet dodgy UK supplier of old Piedmont wines. Real mugs and they suck them in.

Anyways, sludge tar and petroleum and dark coal like intense Barbera fruit. Juicy fruited palate, sweet, evolved and long.

Good bottles punch 94 its easy.

90pts


Ciabot Berton Roggeri Barolo 2001- This wine showed beautifully. La Morr perfume. Plum-berry like mix, florals and Nepalese herbs and incense. Great length and palate expression, citrus freshness on the edges serves the wine well, prior it tiring on second pass but not before I rated it hihgjly.

95pts



Prunotto Babrbaresco 2005- A lovely and typical Barbaresco from 2005 with good fruit complexity in a mix of red and black fruits; intensity is waning on the palate but very nice

91pts

Our palates where cleansed with a glass of Claudio Mariotto Timorrasso "Pitasso" 2012 which os a lost native white grape of Piedmont rejuvenated of late. Lovely palate volume and weight in adolescence, with bracing minerality/acidity.

Olek Bondonio Barbaresco 2011- introduced the reds again and I love presenting Olek's wines. This is beautiful Barbaresco open for business but comfortable for another 20. Crowd was pleased and asked me to put in another order for the HKWS.





Silvio Grasso "Ciabot Mazone" Barolo 2004 en magnum- I found this delightful as did everyone else. Slow-oxed, then decanted for two hours, the wine presented some pretty typical La More nuances including elegance and approachability. Delightful and fine to better for another 20 +






Cappellano Otin Fiorin "Pie Rupestris" Barolo 2009-Slow-oxed for 36 hours as per Augusto's recommendation. Utterly stunning for an 09. Beguiling florals and masculine, yet a perfumery of red cherries, faint tar developing some darker fruit notes. Fresh as a daisy on the palate. It's beautiful, long and balanced and ever so approachable. Only 4 bottles consumed so I have another I'll drink next week- I'm sure the wine resilient( already opened ) and my expectations are high.

Barolo Chinato completes and I dared not finish with the Grappa.

On the traditional vs modernist debate - had a 2001 Roberto Voerzio Brunate alongside a Produttori Asili 2001 the other night.

Appreciated both wines, and despite most of the Nebbiolo in my cellar being in the traditional camp, the Voerzio was stunning. Whatever oak there was, has folded in beautifully. I was expecting "splinters" and all kinds of exaggerations like I've read on various wine forums, however was pleasantly surprised. If not for the crazy prices, would definitely buy more.

I agree! I think some of the "modern" wines assessed too early. So your 01 Voerzio, in another 10 years I'm not so sure a lot of people could pick it blind as a modernist approach.

I don't want to be telling people what they like, I just feel some folks are missing some pretty awesome wines with a little bias.

The 2001 Asili? Ready for business? Next month we have an Asili dinner with all the producers of that wonderful site!

JamieBahrain wrote:I agree! I think some of the "modern" wines assessed too early. So your 01 Voerzio, in another 10 years I'm not so sure a lot of people could pick it blind as a modernist approach.

I don't want to be telling people what they like, I just feel some folks are missing some pretty awesome wines with a little bias.

The 2001 Asili? Ready for business? Next month we have an Asili dinner with all the producers of that wonderful site!

The aromatics were very lifted in the Voerzio - violets just exploded out of the glass. I do not know enough about either production style or Brunate itself to say what Contributed to this.

01 Asili - have had twice this year, first bottle fairly closed and uncharming, second bottle a bit more giving with sweeter fruit and some complexity emerging, however still some chalky and chunky tannins in the midpalate - I'd guess another 5 years to peak. Be keen to see how you go!

JamieBahrain wrote:Thanks Ian.

I just find it so interesting that some folks judge wines so close to release and still live in the obsolete modernist/ traditionalist paradigm. I hosted what I'd deem a adolescent look at Barolo and Barbaresco odds and ends last and I gave up asking the outmoded question what tasters believed the expression was, modern or traditional. Even after 15 years, some oak integration was near stealthy.

I don't really count anyone out but the extreme modernists - I rather like the 'wine behind the label' comment that "It's like having the icing without the cake". That said, I got stung when Aldo Conterno, styled as a traditional or at least mostly traditional producer at the time, were experimenting rather more than was publicised, and the 1997 Barolo Cicala was effectively a pour down sink job for the 3 bottles I bought. That made me a little more cautious.

I actually quite enjoy La Spinetta Barbaresco wines, though not enough to buy bottles at the price asked. Not Barbaresco as I expect it, but a good wine in a very different style.

The boundaries are a lot more blurred now. Back in the day the trenches were laid out more clearly, but time has allowed each to learn from the other. There are still trad producers that won't budge, and a small number of modernists that hold their position firmly. Personally I don't expect a soft wine on release, and am reassured by the presence of some firm tannins. French oak is not something I prefer with nebbiolo, though occasionally that is in larger sized barrels (including botte size) or with a more subtle toast, or used for just part of the wine. If I can taste vanilla / caramel then I'm not happy. Thus I still lean traditionialist, but no point being dogmatic about it.

regards
Ian

Good to see a Timorasso on the list, often making a really flexible food wine - I'm certainly not afraid to have it with goose, pork, duck etc.

Alcohol levels can creep up a bit, so a 14.5% wine can be very weighty indeed, but still good with food, though shave up to 1% off that and it's where I'd prefer it (in general).

I forgot to mention Ciabot Berton (La Morra) in my ramblings to Gavin. Not one I've tried but it's been warmly received locally and the sort of prices that still make it reasonably priced even after WET takes its hefty slice.

A shame about the Ai Suma. Perhaps vintage affected? They tend to be pretty sturdy wines. For all my caution with overt oak with Nebbiolo, I'm much more at ease with it in Barbera, though time has shown me some neutral oaked Barbera wines that I like as well.

Did you like the Barolo Chinato?

I'm often amused by people's reactions when they taste it for the first time - as if someone's laced their drink with strychnine! A number come round to it, and I'm one of them. I also enjoy the soft drink Chinotto, where even a very commercial offering (e.g. San Pellegrino 'Chino') is nicely grippy. There is a lovely one made by Borea e Rossi out of Liguria, who I've ordered direct from before.

Grappa another drink that can take some getting used to. For me the path to enlightenment with it came initially via oak-aged versions, but then to single variety bottlings (often preferring the sweeter grapes e.g. Moscato, Nosiola and a lovely one I picked up a while back made from Freisa skins). Also worth keeping an eye out for are the herb infused grappe that were widely seen in Trentino. Some were sweetened, which I'll tolerate to a point.

Sat for Dinner with Roberto Voerzio- I have had many expressive wines from him. I like his organic farming ethos.
He believes in pulling the cork in the morning- no decant- usually drinks well by midnight.
He reckons his wines are best at 5-8 years of age.

Ian S wrote:Did you like the Barolo Chinato?

Was hooked the moment I sipped it. Powered through a bottle in 3-4 days. I can imagine others perhaps not liking it though. Like mulled wine mixed with Campari, and dial up the herbs to 11.

Always have a bottle of Cappellano Chinato open . There can be no better ?

JamieBahrain wrote:Always have a bottle of Cappellano Chinato open . There can be no better ?

How long can an open bottle last before deteriorating Jamie?

JamieBahrain wrote:There can be no better ?

Once you taste the real deal, the others pale in comparison (even if they are still often very enjoyable!).

The Cappellano Chinato we leave open for many months on end and it's still great. It's left in a wine fridge at 15 degrees.

I use it instead of malaria tablets when deep jungle trekking.

I don't get Voerzio. I've met him a few times too as a guest of our wine group. His wines go the distance as you would expect with an earlier optimum being from La Morra. I actually get the detractors with these wines, if drinking them at 5-8 to be honest .

Ian S wrote:A shame about the Ai Suma. Perhaps vintage affected? They tend to be pretty sturdy wines. For all my caution with overt oak with Nebbiolo, I'm much more at ease with it in Barbera, though time has shown me some neutral oaked Barbera wines that I like as well.

Hi Ian

1990 and 1997 are magnificent vintages for Ai Suma. 1990 being poignant as it was released just after Giacomo Bologna's passing and that's are the name came from, comments that he had achieved with Barbera what he set out to do.

I agree, don't mind even lavishly oaked Barbara, so long as its integrated some in time.

Ha, I missed the 1990 TN first time round, so a good job you posted a response!
Might be interesting to know the UK vendor, but I know Gavin is very respectful not to want people to openly diss other merchants. Would it have a '&' in the middle of two 4 letter words?

There was a lovely article written by Andrew Jefford in the weekend's FT- The Beauty of Babraresco. Can be googled. Over a glass of 2010 Punset Babraresco Basarin, I wished the article extended much longer.

I've often picked up airiness as a Barbaresco descriptor but thought I was missing something.


“The aromas are different,” says leading local producer Gaia Gaja. “They’re less earthy than Barolo, less dusty, muddy, tarry; they’re lighter and more airy.”

It's really something to open a number of bottles of Nebbiolo and drink them over a week. There's no need for Coravin, just pull the cork on a number of bottles and you get a different experience every night- minus the negatives of obvious oxidation.






Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin 2011- Amongst the other company, this was ready to go by day two, all considered. A warm vintage and I fell off my chair to see this at 15%.

Aromatically it was wondrous. A ripe varietal amalgam of ripe raspberry, potpourri, fresher florals, earth and Serranlunga ferrous minerality. Profoundly delicate on the palate at day one, by two and day three, the aromatics have rolled into the medium weighted palate that's building beyond its light start, sour cherry fruit and earth emerge, light chinato and long acidity with fine, fading tannins - perhaps a little astringency and showing a gentle warmth of the vintage.

Quite a profound wine to show Barolo, all its brilliance, at such an early mark.

93pts



Paitin Barbaresco Riserva Sori Paitin Vecchie Vigne 2007 - Serraboella old vines nearby Neive. Interesting producer getting some acclaim in the US market. I've stayed with them before for a month so have a lot of familiarity with their wines.

Day one was very Burgundian in its apologetic mulchiness. Over four days I got a good handle on the wine. The oak and the 2007 were awkward partners though did settle in a topsy-turvey manner. Violets and spices, red currants and ferrous minerality present. The palate settles toward a layer of oak, violets, tar and coal- beautifully settled by day four, finishes comfortable and complete, with cherry stone persistence and leather developed tannins in great balance.

94pts





Pio Cesare Barbaresco Il Bricco 2004- Barbaresco from a number of vineyards in Treiso and made in great years only. This wine took four days to settle - initially the oak quite off putting.

At it's best, 3/4 of a bottle on day four, caramel oak, black plums, milk chocolate, prune and tar. Beautifully delivered, poised and layered with hints again of tar, liquorice bullets, cured meats and sweet spices. Balance is superb at its best, delivering an international wine of nomadic origin.

92pts

JamieBahrain wrote:liquorice bullets

I had a large delivery last week mostly of Piedmont wines for the cellar. I thought I'd try a few, opening 3 bottles on a Sunday night and sharing them through the week.

Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2014- I put half of these out on the quaffing shelves which is a little early but as the wine is so cheap, it doesn't matter. The rest will sit in one of the wine fridges where in a few years I'll wish I'd waited longer , as is often the case with Nebbiolo dismissed as quaffing wine.

On first opening, the wine is anxious in its youth and lacks intensity, with just a zephyr of light red florals and tar. Over the days the wine builds volume and fills with darker fruits, liquorice and herbs prior a bitter almond note introducing the long finish where the tannins are spiky and fractionally green.

Should fulfil its duty as a quaffer quite well, if served with food. A Barbera better suited for that big glass without thought.

87pts+


Produttori del Barbaresco 2014- Impatient and I tried a bottle on the night of the delivery, so its been a long sea journey to HKG. I didn't take any notes and I was very impressed. I plan to get 6 to the cellar in Australia, though it could be a waste of logistics, as I have a lot of riservas or better to get down there too. Next bottle is corked- F&R will replace. And the third started off a little stinky too but improved by day two.

Polished red and black fruits, white pepper and black tea, with a beautiful and gentle undertone of tar suggesting a good and not overdone vintage ripeness. Slowly builds over the days with more plushness of fruit, overall a classic feel and initial austerity delivers a feline grace in a Barbaresco context.

Will report further as I think the first bottle better.

92pts+



Pio Cesare Barolo 2013- No apologies here, I'll just call this my After Dinner Mint Barolo.

Hedonistic aromatics, even and unexpressive dark fruits, ripe mint, crafted, high quality freshly sawn oak that dominates. My first 2013 I think , hard to gauge the vintage in the style, though the palate is impressively expansive and poised with a youthful layering of choc-cherry fruit; Alpine menthol is blanketed by pleasantly herbaceous oak and the finish is long with saline and well ripened tannin.

Always the After Dinner Mint Barolo for mine, three are in the Australian cellar already, the other two will sit here for the next few years. I have 2013 Ornato arriving soon- perhaps just to balance all that traditional Barolo in my cellar.

91pts +






n

JamieBahrain wrote:produttori.jpg

A timely reminder that I should press pause on Mt Etna and drink Barbaresco tonight.

Did you try? I had another PdB 2013 last night. It's sort off the house quaffer at the moement. You can see exactly where the wine's going when enjoying it now with a meal where the youthful leaness and firm structure tamed- will fill and round out nicely in about 5 years and be very typical. A bit of magic missing, that'll be in the riservas.

Last night:

2012 Vajra Nebbiolo D'Alba Typically slight VA aromas, uplifted. Lifted bright palate, easy to drink and approachable.
2008 Brovia Ca' Mia Barolo Serralunga Beautiful wine, in a great place now, very elegant. WOTN
2011 Produttori Barbaresco Rio Sordo . needed more time to open up, but all the goods were there.
2000 Reanto Ratti Barolo Conca . Typical Ratti and La Morra, powerhouse. Oak and fruit finally coming together, big lad.
2008 Vallana Gattinara. also typical of the marque.... bretty.

Hi Rory,

I've squirrelled away a number of those wines for retirement in Australia. The Gattinara will go forever and like Musar come what may! I have the Rio Sordo in magnums but damn, 2008 I've gone so long on ! Including x 12 of Brovia's Ca Mia ! I've noticed them ( 2008 ) opening up too; recently a Cappellano quite wonderful though still fine for the very long term. The Brovia, what do you think? The very long term?

FWIW I liked the 2008 vintage when tasting in the region, though to be fair I also liked 2006 for its slightly more structured form and 2007 as a good 'restaurant choice' vintage - when you are faced with only recent vintages, but do want a Barolo or Barbaresco, then 2007 was a good choice for a few years.