Rossco wrote: ↑Mon Aug 21, 2023 12:43 pm
Another wine night back at the end of July – I have finally caught up on my notes!
Theme was "20th Century Open" ie any wine from any region Prior to 2000 vintage.
What a great theme, albeit a risky one with corks, storage and faulty bottles of wines over 23 years old.
First time we have tried this, so lets hope it’s a good one.
As always all wines served blind:
Wine # 1 (Starter) – 2012 Champagne Assailly ‘A’ Avize Grand Cru
Nice colour, light gold, good persistent bead. Looks to have a touch of age on it, maybe 06 or 08 just by the colour. Bready nose, lots of yeast and interestingly some powdered ginger spice. More on that later, but I get the feeling I was the only one on the table getting ginger notes on the nose.
Candy/Fairy floss sweetness as well, some autolysis and aldehyde characters and a slight touch of ox, not in a bad way, clearly a style thing and maker/house influence trying to add some complexity.
On the palate its very dry, lots of champagne lemony acid, runs though the palate. Chalky minerals, the wine feels older as well, so I’m 2008 or earlier. Wrong on this age, looks and tastes older, but it’s the style not the wine. Some on the table really don’t like the style, I don’t mind it. Doesn’t play by the rules, its not a big house – I choose grower – has some interesting characters but it is a divisive style. Not anywhere near as bad as Jacques Selosse mind you!
Broad palate is a little simple fruit wise, lemons, citrus and grapefruit. Don’t think it’s a Grand Cru, just doesn’t have the fruit power or quality I feel for a GC…… lol wrong again. Bubbles evaporated very quickly, and it went flat while in the glass. Length was ok as well, but overall, a little disappointing for what it is.
Wine # 2 – 1990 Bredif Grande Annee Vouvray
Yellow gold in colour, no blurring or discolouration. As this is on theme, I cant believe it’s a minimum of 23 years old. Colour is wonderful in that sense. Nose has some pine needle, nettles, tropical fruits; guava especially, but the nose is muted. Some people think it may have some slight TCA, and there is a robust discussion about that, I cant see TCA so I’m in the no camp, BUT its not a powerful nose so I get the confusion.
Sweet residual sugar on the palate. You can taste the sweetness and its quite prominent. Luckily there is enough acid to carry the sugar and hold it in place. There isn’t any Rhone characters here, its not a white bdx or burgundy. Intriguing wine it could be Alsace, but I’m in Vouvray. This feels like and old chenin Blanc…. Got one right!
There is a caramelised sugar note in the mouth too, like the top of a crème brulee, touch of honey and spice as well. Lovely length and the mouthfeel is rounded and soft yet silky. All secondary characters in the wine, fruit has faded somewhat but such a lovely experience. This is what perfectly aged whites should be all about. History in a glass.
Wine # 3 – 1999 Bouchard Pere & Fils Bonnes – Mares Grand Cru
Lovley colour here, brick red without being blurry at all. I have had much younger wines that don’t look anywhere near as good as this. Colour fills me with confidence.
Nose has lots of earth, liquorice and red berries, lovely perfume here.
Gravelly tannins, this has some huge structure. Acid is perfect, not intrusive at all and this is all about the Tannin, it’s the star here. I’m in Gevrey because of those tannins. Fruit is there but takes a backseat to the structure. Yes there is some forest floor, mushroom and red current fruit. Violet/Purple florals with a wonderful length and I think it’s the 1996 vintage. Powerful wine and quite surprised its Bonnes Mares. Beautiful wine needs food – screaming for some roast duck. Will still live for a while, I don’t think it will improve, but its won’t fall over anytime soon. Fantastic example of aged Burg.
Wine # 4 – 1994 Moss Wood Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Colour is a very deep and dark red. Again, no blurring or bricking at all. Defies the themed age, and from the colour its in impeccable condition. So far we are 3 for 3 – With this theme I was thinking an over 25% failure rate.
Nose has heady notes of cedar, cassis, mint, and capsicum. I’m immediately in Bordeaux varietals, lots of fruit on the nose, so I don think its French just on that fruity nose. Not over ripe fruits though, perfectly judged ripeness.
Some very large and dry tannin, and now I’m confused. Has new world fruit with a Bordeaux structure… then the acid comes in and its new world. So that’s what I choose.
More perfectly ripe fruits in the mouth, fruit weight in this wine is huge. Young and powerful fruits, belies the age. More mint, cassis, black olives, green capsicum, cedar, and cigar box… sensational wine here.
When I get capsicum on both the nose and the palate, it leads me to Margaret River, it’s missing the clay/terrarossa earth of Coonawarra, so its not from there. Defiantly not a generic red label SA red or Barossa/Clare/Eden Cab, so I strike that off the list. Could be Vic but its just too good. I pick it as an Old Moss Wood. Never seen this Special Reserve Label before, apparently the 1994 vintage was the very last vintage of this wine. Pity as this is such a special wine. Australian history and brings a tear of joy to my eye. This is what wine is all about and why you fall in love with collecting.
Wine # 5 – 1986 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon
Another amazing colour here – no blurring and again a deep dark red. Slightly different to the previous bottle; same same but different.
Nose has a prominent spearmint character straight out of the glass. There is a red clay/red earth character on the nose as well, very different to the previous wine. This has some very dry fruit in the mouth, red currents, blackcurrants, purple fruits as well. This feels young as well, but not as young as the Moss Wood, I think mid – late 90’s. Wonderful condition actually spectacular condition. Bright and youthful fruit, regional herbs, more mint and dusty tannin…. and there is that terracotta red clay character in the mouth. 100% Coonawarra with that terrarossa and spearmint. Not Bordeaux or USA – I guess blind 1996 John Riddock …. Lol only 10 years off! Holy Moley what a wine. One of the first vintage of JR – by memory 1982 was the first?
Wine # 6.1 – Left Glass – 1997 Craiglee Shiraz
I cant believe this evening, for wines that are so old, there has been a theme of perfect colour and perfectly cellared wines. This is no different and that colour is a deep purple. Not bright but no bricking or blurring. Get a nose of this! HUGE cool climate shiraz notes. Lots of white pepper, lots of herbs and very blue fruits. Blueberries and spice. Reminds me of an aged Mt Langi Girhan – especially the 1999 vintage, so that’s what I think it is. Nice acid and tannin, playing a wonderful structural supporting role to those fruits…. And the fruit is SO good. Ultra-high quality, prominent and powerful. It’s a delight.
Wine # 6.2 – Right Glass – 1996 Craiglee Shiraz
Now here we have a completely different wine. Dark red, but not as dark as the left glass. This looks younger and brighter as well. Different fruit profile. Doesn’t have the cool climate Grampians notes that the left has. This is black cracked pepper, softer red fruits and softer tannin. Dark strawberry fruit, black currants and red currents, more spices and dried herbs to finish.
I feel we could be in the same state and same grape variety (ie Vic Shiraz) and that’s the commonality
Of the two wines. Well I couldn’t be more wrong. Same maker, same vineyard same everything just ONE year vintage difference. WOW – Astonishing and a wonderful example of vintage variation; couldn’t have two more different wines.
Wine # 7 – 1996 Bests Great Western Thomson Family Shiraz
Another clear and bright red colour. This has a youthful brightness to it. Quality and storage are excellent. No blurring or bricking. Nose has a spicy and peppery note to it. Lots of purple/black fruits, but again its that spice and pepper that leads me to another Victorian Shiraz. Cooler climate but missing that white pepper note of the Grampians, I don’t think it’s a Langhi. Prominent, spiky acid more than the Craiglee. This is still so primary; so young. Oak is way too heavy and distracting at the moment; overpowering unfortunately those wonderful fruits. Very good length, texture is quite mouth filling, it is all encompassing full bodied wine, but it just has too much acid and oak at this point. Not even nearly ready, put away for another 5-10 years
Bottle # 1873 of 4200, so not a huge production run.
Wine # 8 – 1992 Bests Great Western Thomson Family Shiraz
Dark red in the glass, with purple tinges and a purple rim….. another ridiculous young looking wine.
Nose is slightly muted, im wondering if it was just opened and needs a bit of air. Nose is spicy though, and don’t tell me we have another Victorian shiraz? Its what im smelling in the glass again. Similar to the last wine, but different. This has a lot of purple flowers in it, especially violets but some dried herb notes as well. Peppery in the mouth, im guessing another Bests but different vintage. It’s a medium weight wine, not delicate but quite feminine with all that purple perfume. Some dark cherry fruit, back currents and red currents. The oak is perfectly balanced and not over the top, its allowing those fruits to show off. Length is very nice, good wine.
Wine # 9 – 1998 Chateau Troplong Mondot St Emilion Grand Cru
I love the colour of this wine, dark purple turning into a blackcurrant type thing. Its glistening and shining in the glass. Smells of Bordeaux, lots of cassis, cigar box and cedar. Fresh Tobacco on the nose too, fruit is a touch subdued in the glass for now.
The palate is showing lots of graphite and charcoal type minerals. This is a hugely structured wine tannins are dominant, but somehow makes the wine. The fruit is up to the task of taming those grainy tannins, which are 100% French. Question is right bank or left bank……… I think this is a merlot based wine, so im right bank. Fruit is very rich now, lots of plums, mulberries and more blackcurrants. This is again so youthful, nice dryness here but its only just starting to come out of its shell, would have been a beast on release. Even now it needs another 10 years minimum, decanting a must. Cracking wine, an easy buy.
Wine # 10 – 1998 Isole e Olena Cepparello
Lovley colour in the glass here, different to the others this is a clear cherry red. Translucent in the glass, shows no signs of bricking or blurring Surely this isn’t 20+ years old… the colour is just too young.
Nose is a bit off putting though, not sure if this was decanted or popped and poured. Has a sulphur / eggy nose that is ‘pungent’ putting it nicely, Lets hope it blows off with a bit of air.
The palate has some huge tannin, old world tannin at that. We are definitely not in Kansas anymore. Bright red fruits, pure fruited wine. Lots of cherry and cranberry fruits, redcurrants with some Tuscan dried herbs, no oak in sight, this is all about the red fruit. Slap in the face tannins that makes you sit up – astounding wine that is drinking superbly right now. Probably the best Cepparello I have had.
Wine # 11 – 1999 Houghton Jack Mann Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec – Franklin River WA
Bright purple rim with a dark/black core. This looks very youthful, silky looking wine like the Troplong, this is bright and shining but with a different deeper, darker colour. Smells so primary and fresh, kind of like a barrel sample. This is a full bodied wine with everything going on, like a Christmas Turkey Lunch with all the trimmings. Huge, dense, powerful core of black fruits; blackberry, cassis, touch of capsicum and cedar. Unbelievable power in here, no one (including myself) can believe it’s a 24 year old wine, belies its age, so young it could easily be a barrel sample. Lots of oak, actually too much oak at this point, and its dominating the wine. Nice acid that gives balance, beautiful tannin structure albeit again a bit too prominent. Big fruit, big tannins and even bigger oak – this is so thick it’s a meal in itself. Demands food, will live forever. Has another 40 years in it cork permitting (which was a marvel in itself – tiny purple disk at the very end, no signs of staining or leaking) – this is why we love wines - Drank too young
Wine # 12- 1994 Stanton & Killeen Vintage Port
Red rim, leading into a dark purple black core in colour.
Nose has marzipan, almond and orange peel notes. Hints of ocean spray / sea salt and dark fruits. Smells Australian with those lifted fruits, wonderful nose.
In the mouth the first thing that hits you is that spirit, it’s a bit hot and sits above the wine, needs more integration. Black fruits, dark plums and mulberry. Liquorice and some really ethereal baking spices, black and green peppers, this has to be majority shiraz in its make up. Lovely length and mouthfeel is silky once you get over that spirit, my only quibble.
Great ending